EScanlon

You need to check your fusible links, which are a kind of fuse placed in line on the electrical circuit. Sounds as though you are getting a completed circuit to the ignition switch, just that it is causing a high amount of resistance, that indicates that the circuit is not being completed directly and therefore part of the original path is broken. I hope you took the time to NEUTRALIZE the battery acid that spilled and not just hose it off the inner fender. This is important because you now have had an ACID spill in a prime rust area of the car. 2¢ Enrique

Electrical systems are pretty basic in performance once you make the link between a flow of electrons and the flow of water. Many lessons in college take this into consideration. Like water, electricity requires a PATH or PIPE to get from point A to point B. Without that path, there will be no transfer. Let me explain a bit further and you will be able to then approach the electrical system of your car and repair it. The amount of water (electricity) that you can put through a pipe (wire) is dependent on it's diameter (wire gage) and the amount of pressure (voltage) that you apply to it. Once you have flow you then have a rate of transfer, whether in gallons or cubic feet or electrons. That rate of transfer is called CURRENT in electricity and Flow Rate in water. Got that so far? Now, the amount of current you have is what allows you to then have that current perform WORK. The amount of work it can do is directly proportional to the amount of current you have. This is the basic precept of electricity. Now, let's imagine a pair of garden hoses. One is brand new, in fact the coils are still very much evident. The other has been lying in the sun for the past 10 years, and it's sagging worse than.... well, let's just say it's almost flat. Now, we're going to attach a bucket to each end, one filled with water and the other barrel at the opposite end of the hose will be empty. When you open the valve (switch) you allow the water to flow through the pipe to the other barrell. Pretty basic huh? By allowing gravity to effect the transfer, we can establish the basic flow without further enhancements. This system is the basic principle to most water wheeled machinery. But we discover that we need more flow. Now we can either raise the barrels or invent pumps to move more flow. With the new pipe, with the inside shape being fairly even from end to end, there would be no flow force lost in forcing out the walls of the pipe. The only deterrent to the flow would be the up and down oscillations of the hose along it's length. With the old pipe, part of the force of the flow is used up in forcing out the pipe's inside diameter, whereas the loss due to gravity is nill. For the sake of discussion, let's presume they're both equal flow's. Now in adding more pressure, both pipes will have additional pressure put on their walls. The newer hose might straighten out a bit, but other than that won't show much change. The old pipe on the other hand will bulge out to it's original shape first. But let's face it, as you add more pressure to get more work out of the system you will be finding out if the old hose has any leaks. More than likely it will and those reductions in flow will affect the amount of work you can do with the flow that does make it through. Those leaks are analogous to resistance. The more leaks you have the less flow you end up with at the working end of the tube. Your electrical system is the same. The problems you are describing are due to leaks due to resistances in the many connections. Heck, just disassembling and reassembling will help reduce some of those problems. Hope this helps someone. Enrique

Nope, it's heat welded to the vinyl on the door panel. Unfortunately when the "chrome" finish starts peeling, it reveals a blue plastic. I've heard stories of people using aluminum tape, silver foil, etc to repair, but have not seen any of them to comment. Enrique

Not that I am aware of. Don't forget that the turn signal stalk also doubles as the High / Low beam switch. Enrique

First of all, are you absolutely SURE that the keys are gone? They may have ended up in the pocket of a coverall you wore last time you played with the engine, or in a jacket....get my drift? Once you are completely and positively sure that they are gone and a new set must be made, then approach a locksmith. As posted, many times the dealers will look at the Z and say, Gee, I remember my dad having one. There are some very good dealers out there though, so check with them. However if they insist that the Z is only a 350 then back away carefully. Now, to me first determine if all 5 locks were keyed the same. The two doors, the hatch, ignition and glove compartment are all supposed to be keyed the same on the 240. (Someone correct me for other models.) With that in mind, take out the lock in the glove compartment (2 phillipss screws) and have the locksmith cut new keys to that. The lock usually has the code stamped on the side. 2¢ Enrique

Did you mean CRACK or CRAZE? Crazing is where you get a series of small cracks that seem to be in "squares" or "rhomboids". That is, the jagged lines seem to intersect at angles to other jagged lines. Think of shattered safety glass but in jagged straight lines. Cracking is where there is a complete separation of the material through from side to side (in this case outside to inside). Crazing is caused by an unsuitable base material that has reacted with the bondo causing it to "wrinkle" and set with poor material in the fissures. The most typical example of this is stripper residue on the sheet metal, although fibreglass resin can cause the same if not properly sealed before applying the bondo or paint. Cracking is typically due to an impact or sometimes stress due to body flexing. Hope this helps. Enrique

Ahh, what a comma instead of a semi-colon will do. Enrique

For $180 you should be able to buy new covers from just about any of our vendors. So instead of buying WHITE to then have to paint it, why not contact Too Intense Restoration, Chloe may have recovers, or MSA / V / B . 2¢ Enrique

The FUEL lines can be obtained at NAPA. My local NAPA had all of them in rolls. From the large vent hose to the smallest one and all of them stamped with the wording (fuel line). 2¢ Enrique P.S. The article mentioned is very similar to what appeared in the first issue of Sport Z.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36475&item=2480158396&rd=1 Some one tell me that this guy does NOT know about Zedd Findings. E

The problem in shipping to Eastern Europe is that there are few carriers that will transport a vehicle outside of a container. Add to that that if you rent a container, park the car in it, the problem then becomes that they can't guarantee LEVEL (or within a margin) shipping. (You don't want the car to skid into the sides or doors of the container, and in order to modify a container for chains you need a special container or modify your own.) That's been what I've been informed by my container agent. If you can get LEVEL transport to Europe, try to get it as close to the destination and then have them truck it or drive it the rest. Now, you by chance haven't sold your vehicle to a foreign individual that will / has / sent you a cashier's check for TWICE the purchase price? If so, or ANYTHING like it DO NOT SHIP THE CAR WITHOUT C O N F I R M E D PAYMENT! Confirmed funds are where your bank HAS the money and not that they are processing your check / deposit. Enrique Scanlon

The very early Z's, which had TWO slots behind the shift mechanism for both the Choke and the Manual Throttle are different from later consoles that had only ONE lever for the choke. If I recall there was a change in the Automatic Transmissions or in the Manual Transmissions that necessitated a change in the location of the Shift Hole. I'm not sure if the following applies to later consoles, but it definitely DOES apply to the early ones (personal experience here). You can convert an AUTOMATIC console into a MANUAL, but not the other way around. The Automatic has a Gear Selector Indicator in place of the Leatherette Shift Boot. The Selector Finisher butts up at the front with the bottom edge of the a) ashtray or fuse box / indicator light panel, whereas the shift boot is essentially an inverted skirt that has had it's "hem" clipped to the four sides of the hole. The Forward edge of the hole has a higher edge than the other sides, whereas the automatic has the edge all even to the other sides. This difference is so that the joint between the shifter selector and the console does not leave a hole. If you look at the forward edge of the shift finisher and the lower edge of the ashtray surround you'll see the "extra" bit of plastic that gets removed in order to make the console into a standard console. Enrique

The wiring being a few inches away from the sender is normal. That's how Datsun would "park" the wires they weren't going to use. Check the front and you'll find that the Fog Lamp wiring is also there but more than likely taped off also. Your tank is also missing the two vent tubes that lead to the fuel vapor expansion tank. Those two vents would be located, one above the sender and one to the far back and far right of the tank in the picture. Enrique Scanlon

That's interesting to note. My car (Sep 71) had an aftermarket stereo installed when I got it. When I went to the boneyard to find a replacement for it, the one that I found had the volume on the left and the antenna switch above the right knob. Pictures that I've seen in the owner's manual is what tells me I got the right one. This would be something that Alan T. should comment on, probably Kats would be interested also. Enrique

Disconnect the + terminal from the battery and hook up a simple light type circuit tester, or just a simple 12v bulb. If it lights up, no matter how dimly with the key in the off position, then you have a current drain. If it doesn't you do not. It's that simple. Now, to trace down WHERE the current drain is, simply hook up your bulb again, and go inside the car and start disconnecting likely candidates for the drain. Typically: the accessory relay (mounted on the kick panel on the 240); or the Glove Box Light. Those are the easiest to find and detect. When the light at the battery goes off when you've disconnected an item, that's the item that's causing the drain. Memory keeping circuitry on radios or alarms is usually so low as to take literally months to drain a properly charged and in good condition battery. 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

That actually looks like a RHD radio for a 70 or early 71. The notation above the left knob is only for DX or LD, an old notation for DISTANT and LOCAL station reception. In newer stereos this is done automatically, but back then you would select a tighter band reception for stations further away. The reason I say a RHD radio is that the volume and on-off switch knob is on the right. The toggle switch for the antenna didn't go above the tuning knob on the right (USA market) till late 71. 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

Wondering how much your car might be worth? Check this sale on E-Bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479139282&category=6187 Enrique

I agree that some of the items this seller sells are outlandish. However, let's not forget that there are ~some~ individuals out there such as Porsche or Ferrari owners who simply feel that they MUST flaunt their brand of car. With Z's becoming almost as exclusive (due to their rarity) as Porsches and Ferraris (which are exclusive due to their prices), it isn't inconceivable that eventually there will be some "elitist" owners out there that flaunt the Z. Then again, I'm biased. I bought a pair of the "Z Driving Gloves" just to put on the console when I'm at car shows. Enrique

DO NOT USE POR 15 FOR EXTERIOR SHEET METAL! Although it is a great product for painting over rust, it has a tendency to set very quickly after being painted and NOT flow out. This lack of flow out will show up on your final surface paint as uneven shine, and hence will make your paint job look awful. You WILL need an etching primer in order to do the first primer coat on bare metal. If you use any other type of paint for the first coat you can count on it blistering or flaking off later. You can top self-etching primer with any one of various surfacers, whether high-fill or light and then go to final paint. Heck if the body is straight enough you wouldn't even need to go to a fill primer, but you MUST first shoot etching primer. Hope that helps. Enrique

Are you referring to the plate on the glove compartment door? If so, you need to disassemble the door, there's a bunch of phillips screws on the inside face of it, then you will have the outside face BACK visible. You'll then be able to see the blind speed nuts that hold that emblem in place. Enrique

Two DUTCH Auctions for Complete Carpet Kits. This is for LOOP pile, althouth non-OEM, a very nice upgrade: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46093&item=2478164202&rd=1 This is for an OEM style set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46093&item=2478164389&rd=1 A DUTCH auction is where more than one item is available and will go for the LOWEST amount for higher numbers. Just a thought: Enrique

A D/A Sander is a DUAL ACTION Sander. That means it can sand in either an Orbital or a Circular pattern. So knock yourself out. Just be careful if it's an electic sander, make sure you hook up the vacuum attachment. Enrique

Since the clock runs normally when you drive it, and stops when the car is not driven points to the source of power to the clock being interrupted. Have you checked that the power to the clock is in fact, continuous? 2¢ Enrique

St. Stephen is correct. If you'll look you will note the seat sensor on one of them. Enrique

First off, I think you did well with a $2500 settlement. I don't think you could have gotten much more. So with that in mind, here are two thoughts for you. First, see about getting another estimate from a body shop that has a good reputation. Anyone? Then compare what you will be getting done. Unfortunately, finding a bodyshop that is willing to search out and procure new or refurbished parts for an older vehicle is going to be tough. But, that's what you want to do. Now, as an aside, I note that the quote you have is going to replace all the parts on the right hand side. Are they all so shot that they can't be repaired? That's where you can start negotiating with the body shop you're currently working with. Second thought, what about having the body shop repaint the WHOLE car as part of the fix. It may mean that you have to toss in another $1k or $1.5k on top of what you're currently quoted, but that way, your car would be all one color. And as an afterthought, if you are mechanically inclined, you could do the repairs yourself, as long as you can get ahold of the parts. Anyhow, good luck and keep us posted. Enrique Scanlon