EScanlon

You don't mention if you are having trouble with the turn signals at the rear also. The turn signals, the stop lights and the hazard lights all use the same element in the rear bulbs. Depending on what circuit is live is what you will get at the back. Is your Hazard Flasher in place and working? If it isn't, you have an open circuit there that may be the problem. 2¢ Enrique

CAREFUL!! The main reason the amp gauge is hard wired to the harenss is to PREVENT those wires from coming loose. The wiring to the Amp Gauge is directly linked to the battery and alternator. A loose connection there, or just in plugging in the connector you stand the chance of a MAJOR spark. You either need to make the circuit completely dead, (disconnect battery or disconnect the fusible link from the battery to the charger), or be VERY QUICK in connecting and disconnecting. 2¢ Enrique

I agree with Z Babe; that fluid didn't evaporate. I would be VERY cautious with a brake system that mysteriously went on a diet and lost liquid. Remember guys, these are CLOSED systems. They're not exposed to the air, nor is venting of excess liquid part of their design. Look below the Master Vac Boost, if the paint is peeling up from your frame, or on the boost canister itself, more than likely you blew a master cylinder. 2¢

There was a discussion regarding the geometrics of the bell crank that is used to transfer the front to back movement of the accelerator pedal to a side to side movement in order to actuate the carburators. It seems that since you are dealing with rotational movement, at 90° of offset, (in the "corners" of the circle) you are at the peak of the curve for maximum movement per radian of angle. However, this is also a situation where it takes MORE force to begin the rotation than it does to maintain the rotation once you have exceeded the point of inertia release. The resulting OVER acceleration, or in different terms, the tendency of your foot to "push down harder" than you intended, is what is giving you what appears to be a jolt through the clutch. Unfortunately to correct this pre-loading / release of the bell crank would require changing its angle of action. Various items have been proposed, and if I recall an offset of something like 12° (i.e. reduce/ increase offset of arms) yields the next best situation, which is where the initial force required to actuate the pedal is equal to the force to continue the thrust. I hope I explained it well, please correct me if I erred. Enrique

The bracket in your photo is to grip the cable sheath. Adjust it so that you aren't IMMEDIATELY pulling on the cable, i.e. you need to take up a bit of slack, so that there won't be any conflict with the normal operation of the accelerator pedal. Enrique

You can confirm that it is the antenna switch by the color of the wiring. 2¢

Check your own gas pedal first. In my experience, most of the early (read to 73) Z's ALL had the same gas pedal with the EXCEPTION of the Automatic ones. If you look at the picture on e-Bay, look in the upper right, and you'll notice like a hole with a slot in a piece of metal. That's where the cable hooks up. The larger nylon washer I mentioned clips onto the metal and the cable runs freely inside the washer. FWIW Enrique

If I recall, you CAN get the complete Choke & Throttle Cable and lever linkage from MSA. Not sure about VB. I got mine from a boneyard. As far as how it connects, this is tricky as it is important to remember that the throttle is connected directly to the accelerator pedal. It connects to the TOP of the linkage so that when you PULL on the lever it also pulls on the lever that your foot PUSHES on. The mechanism is such that if you should push on the pedal you will not bind nor have the cable disconnect. The cable has the regular sheathing and end ball of lead. The cable goes through a nylon cable holder that clips onto the top of the acc. pedal. The cable holder keeps the cable attached to the pedal while you use the pedal normally. Then when you pull on the lever for the throttle the lead ball is too big to go through the hole in the holder, hence you pull on the lever. Just like if you were holding your foot on the pedal. If you should wish to accelerate more than the hand throttle is set for, that's no problem as the cable will just slip through the holder. FWIW Enrique

Few American cars had this to begin with, and even fewer survived the Dealer "prep" on this item (they removed them). Sadly, American's were not easily accustomed to a hand throttle and more problems and liabilities arose from it than it was worth. Although several folks refer to it as a "Crude Early 240Z Cruise Control", I've heard that it actually was supposed to be used in warming the engine up in cold climates. I just checked my owner's manual (U.S.) and no mention, nor illustration of it could be found. Maybe someone like Alan can help elucidate on this. 2¢

The recess below your arrow and ON the lampholder, if I recall right, is where you can use a very fine screwdriver to push in the tang on the contact for the bulb. You do this when you need to disassemble the bulb holder to clean the contact. The other possible "recess" isn't one. That's the hole with the green plastic in it. That's the melt pin to hold the bulb lens / mask to the body of the clock. Bambi already said it, you basically push the bulb holder to the side, not pull on the wires. 2¢

I don't recall a badge on the left either. I agree with Ian, more than likely a dealer added his nameplate to the car, although usually these were installed with double stick emblem tape. It's plausible that there was an "Automatic" nameplate, but if so, and my car is an Automatic and it doesn't have the holes (Transition Car between Series I and II, 1971), and I've not run into another one even in the boneyards. 2¢

You didn't mention which hoses, engine or fuel tank. However, if you check with Motorsport Auto or Victoria British you should be able to find some of them. One note, many of the hoses in the engine compartment can be purchased at your local Auto Parts Store. 2¢

Sadly, the cost of maintenance on a vehicle here in the U.S. of A. is not only exorbitant, but there are so many times that you get news such as: The flim flam pusher release valve was octupating the misenheimer relay which led to a carburating saturation of the thelapidator. It will only be $500 to get it as good as new, or for $150 we can tweek the phlegmoginator and it will get you by for another 2-3 thousand miles. Guess what gets done.... Additionally the stories abound of people taking their car in for a simple procedure, (change the oil, filter, air filter, and basics) only to have to return the car a week later because the disproportionator went completely hooey. Then, when you get THAT taken care of, a week later and something ELSE goes wrong. At 3-400 per visit it gets real tiring real fast. So people start to wonder, did my car suddenly turn into a lemon or are the mechanics at the dealer f*cking with me? Then let's not forget that there are an increasing amount of PARTS-REPLACER mechanics. These are the guys, who by virtue of the computerized training they received at the dealer, know that when computer error code 23 comes up you need to replace the engine piece by piece until the computer clears it. The true blue MECHANIC, the guy who would listen to your engine, sit there and rub grease into his chin and then announce: Bad Plug in number 3, and then rid your car of all it's evils, is, sadly, going the way of the horse drawn carriage. So if you find a good mechanic, PATRONIZE HIM. 2¢

Choke & Throttle Pull Screws---really odd size and I STILL can't tell you what it is. The nuts holding the instrument gauge inner workings to the housing. 4 or 6mm The Heater Control Panel Mounting Screws. Not only are they of an odd size, but their pitch is different as well. 4mm 1.25 (it's odd at that size) more to come.....

The clear headlight covers all come with the black weatherstrip trim. If you get a kit without it, then you got shorted. 2¢

Personally, I think you'd be pleased with the clear ones with the black vinyl trim. The Chrome ones like I have on my car may be no longer available. You'll need to ascertain that you CAN get them, then whether you want to spend that kind of money. As far as the tinted ones, you may want to check that you won't get a ticket for that. 2¢

Did you recently do some work under the dash? Or maybe on the engine side of the firewall where the speedo cable goes in. What you're describing sounds exactly like a sticking cable, whether because of lack of grease in the jacket or because the gear that's driving it has lost a tooth. 2¢

That picture is of my car. Those were the Original OEM Option as offered by Nissan. I bought mine through Zedd Findings, Charlie Osbourne out of Canada. Now, from what he tells me these were one of the last group out of Japan. Since you're in Melbourne it might be possible to still buy through there. If you should by chance find them, give me a PM as I might be interested in a second pair. Note, they aren't cheap. The lowest I've seen them listed (2 years ago) was $120.00 US each. I paid closer to $150 plus shipping and telegram fees. As far as the mounting, I'll post that in a follow up message. Enrique Scanlon

I'll post my vote this way: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2603&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 Enrique

Ok, are you volunteering to find out the final price and where the winning buyer calls home? I'd pay a penny to see that.

From what I can see in the pictures, it looks accurate for a 71. The console matches mine, the ashtray is forward of the shifter. No vent hatches is consistent with the c-pillar venting. Holes in the steering wheel consistent with the 71 model. Early 71's in the states had the solid steering wheel spokes, as they were "technically" 70 model cars. Don't forget that while the U.S. for the ~most~ part uses a Sep to Aug "Model" year, whereas Japan was using a Jan-Dec. As a result, the vehicles manufactured after September 70 were STILL 70 model vehicles. Due to the transit time and time to sale many were still being sold well into 71. Then when the new production for 71 started being imported, the car shows the changes, BUT then you have TWO variations for a 71 year Z. At least as far as the U.S. is concerned. Please note (especially :devious: Alan): I SPECIFICALLY said in the U.S., as some of these Year / Model / Spec anomalies are strictly of American manufacture and not because Datsun changed their model half way through. Ever heard of a 75 or 76 (and possibly more ) 260 ? They got them in Australia, Japan, and Europe, but NOT in the U.S.. As far as the car on e-Bay, if it is HALF as good as he describes, it is definitely worth it.....for someone in the Northeast. I don't think the cost of transporting it back to the Midwest or back to the Left Coast would be worth it in this case. I would expect it to go for about $4k West Coast and about $12k East coast. 2¢

George: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." That's an Americanism for you. That is, the car works, you get good power and you don't get any arcing. Why muck with it? Just to prove that the resistance of your new wiring is close / same / different (and why) than what the book says? Don't forget that the specs on the car ARE 30+ years old. Has technology changed in that time period? Bottom line, if you see arcing in your spark plug leads....CHANGE THE LEADS. But I wouldn't go removing, testing, and replacing the leads JUST to check their value. 2¢

Yes, but just barely. It mostly depends on what size compressor motor you have. I have a 3hp 30 gallon and although it works, I wish it were both a bigger tank and more horse, to get the pressure back quicker. 2¢

If you look at the visor itself, right where the length of steel rod enters the body of the visor, you should spot a screw that seems to go THROUGH the visor but it doesn't, it's just on one side. this screw is the one Alfa is referring to. It tightens down a "clamp" of steel around the steel rod that goes through the body. If you can't see it when the visors are in the UP position, then lower them and look on the back side. 2¢

When I had my car to that point, I thought they would make EXCELLENT speaker mounts for an OUTRAGEOUS sound system. Can you imaine? A pair of Bose 901 located just behind the seats, or a pair their Acoustimass with the woofer in the spare tire well. Luckily, I didn't have the budget for a major high fidelity purchase. 2¢