EScanlon

Regular POR will "haze" or get cloudy when exposed to UV light. Won't affect it, but it does look like if the paint has hazed and become bad. You can recoat the base POR before it sets with a rattle can paint and it will then protect it and give you the gloss / shine you want while being on top of a POR base. They also have HIGH TEMP POR, which is specifically made for those areas. Ask your vendor. If you order it from MSA you will be limited to what they stock / sell, but if you contact a POR dealer / distributor he'll have access to the complete line. If you need the name for a distributor, I'll give you the name for mine. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

If you prep the metal correctly you'll be removing the bulk of the loose scale and dusty rust. Then with the Marine Clean and Metal Ready you'll degrease and etch (zinc phosphate) then top it off with POR and you'll have an excellent almost perfectly rust-free coating (note, NOTHING is rust free if it involves steel). The nice advantage of POR is that it will flex, and it will protect that steel better than anything else I've tried. When you're finished, you will already have "some" soundproofing, but to do it better, why not get Q-Pads. They're replacement Tar Panels that will go a LONG L O N G way to soundproofing the floor. That's what I did, and you can hear the engine, but you don't hear idle vibrations or noise. Trust me on this one. I then put my complete carpet and mats and the results are EXCELLENT. One BIG IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure you use an Organic Vapor Respirator when you apply the POR. The can says WELL VENTILATED and they are NOT joking in the very least. The fumes have CYANIDE in it, and it will MESS you up BAD! Even with the respirator I used it strictly out doors and sometimes with a fan in the hatch sucking air out. 2¢

I believe so, but I don't know for a fact. However, you can get SEM paint and paint it to match the door panels. It's excellent at coverage and also for long wear. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Try to find someone who has access to Truck Freight through their company. Then get the person who sold it to you to crate it properly, and that means also removing all the oils, and then deliver it to the dock of the trucking company you are working with. Have them fill out the Bill of Lading showing that you're shipping Collect on Account to Account Holder's address. Ask the guy at the company who deals with the trucking lines, he'll know exactly what you need to tell the guy who's shipping and how to get billed the lowest rate. OR You could just contact the trucking company directly and pay FULL retail price. (not a good idea). 2¢

I'm busting a gut laughing!!!! See the previous posts are what make this site such a great place. Yes, you WILL get good information that you could spend hours reserarching on other sites or reading various books. However, every once in a while someone will inform you how to test the coil in your car by putting your pinkie finger in the wire from coil to center post on the distributor............:devious: ...:dead: Then all heck will break loose and we'll discuss various other sideline subjects and then get back to the initial point. Now Mike, if you're still having problems with that bolt, unfortunately, I will admit to being all toes when it comes to engine work, but I'll chime in my 2¢ on how to remove the broken bolt. If you can get a drill into the area so you could drill the bolt out, then do this. Start with a small bit, 1/8" or so, just enough to get a "pilot hole" started, even if you're starting off center. As you're drilling, slowly drill in the direction of the center of the bolt and also straighten the drill so that you will slowly but surely drill a straight hole CENTERED in the bolt. Once you've reached the center, stop and switch to a larger bit, don't feel bad if you want to step it up 1/64" at a time. As you step up, make sure you stay in the center and pretty soon you will have gotten pretty darn close to the size of the bolt. Shoot the bolt with some cutting oil if you have it, if not at least penetrating oil. At this point, or slightly before, switch to the left hand drill bits so that you might be able to work out the remains of the bolt. You will either end up getting the last of the bolt to come out, or you will notice that you will have drilled the bolt to the point where nothing but the threads are left. Although you could switch to a tap at this point, I like to use a very fine punch and tap out as much of the old bolt BEFORE I start tapping. Hope this helps; Enrique Scanlon

Tanny: NOW who sounds like an irresponsible teenager???? WD40 is a silicon based lubricant that, as pointed out, displaces water by mixing with it and then evaporating. It is a suitable LIGHT lubricant for many applications where you do not want a greasy or oily residue which will attract and catch dirt / dust. Bodyshops HATE that stuff as it is notorious for causing "Fish-Eye" in paint jobs. Liquid Wrench is a penetrating oil that purports to loosen rusty / corroded metal parts while lubricating them for ease of disassembly. There are other products out there that will also penetrate a joint and allow you to remove the nut / bolt / screw. While we're on the subject, KY Jelly is a water-soluble lubricant / emolient which lubricates while also not attacking latex, or rubber. Very commonly found in Doctor's offices, Hospitals and Sports First Aid kicts, as well as irresponsible teenager's bedside table drawer. I won't go into the other uses of it. Now will someone tell me what kind of smiley I should have used here????

I have used the emoticons in the past, and sometimes find that I need a cheat sheet to determine what they are supposed to mean. Even then sometimes they don't convey what I felt I would have had it doing. (There is no "SMIRK") That Mike felt that 2MZ had pulled a funny one on him, and he had bit, I felt was the funny part. That he chose Lowe's as the source of his "authority" to debunk the farce I felt just added more fun to it. So, I tried to pull his leg for real with the CCW Thread with LH Drill Bits.....and it came off in my hand. Then I find out that I accidentally got a few others in the same trap. Mike: Sorry, I'll try to not pull your leg in the future, no guarantees and no warnings. My sense of humor tends to slip it's leash and run amok. It isn't till it's cornered that I can once again slip it under control. Bambi: As many posts as you've read of mine, surely by now you would have caught on that I run the gamut from dead serious can't take a joke to, if you believe it then we'll laugh about it later. Tanny: You're right. I'll be celebrating the 31st Anniversary of my 16th Birthday this June. Then again, I may admit to being an irresponsible teenager, but is it possible that your thinking is.....shall we say..... not exactly chaste? Victor L: You're right also! However, don't forget that the engines in Australia actually have the firing order reversed from American engines in order to avoid acceleration torque when accelerating while turning. That's how come you can't use an Australian Distributor cap on an American Engine. Later guys Enrique Scanlon

The buy it now price isn't bad either, a new one will run you about $140 if I recall what I paid correctly. 2¢

That my post was strictly tongue in cheek. A hole is still a hole, the tap doesn't care how it got there. My post regarding using Left Hand or CCW Drill Bits to drill the holes for a Left Hand Thread Tap was just pulling your leg. Now do you see why I said you were being a tad too serious? And don't forget that even Spock was known to pun.

Me thinks you're being a tad too serious......

My latin may be rusty so I can't say for sure. I seem to recall that the name given to the species originally was ...Mimicus and it wasn't until later, when additional specimens were discovered that the ...Polyureathanus were identified. It may be a moot point nonetheless. Apparently the demand for these woods so quickly overcame supply that they began using more common woods such as the Flame Maple you mentioned. To this day, you can more readily find an Oak or Walnut or even Mahogany steering wheel than a true Arboraetus Mimicus or Arboreus Polyureathanus. The difference in the name may be my poor recollection of Latin. Maybe we can get Alan to chime in on this. I'm sure he could shed some light on the subject. Alan you out there? Enrique Scanlon

Sounds like a joke but it isn't. Many times you'll find that the torque and the heat combine to help ease out the broken screw. Besides, how do you think they drill the holes for Left Hand Thread?

You're right. You didn't explain it at all. Want to give it another try?

The wood they used on the steering wheel is an extremely rare item. It came from the Arboraetus Mimicus tree which only grows in a small section of Japan. Although several attempts have been made to plant the tree elsewhere, it seems that it will only grow in Japan. However there have been reports of a very similar tree found in the outback of Australia, which the natives refer to as Maderus Plasticum or in the original aborigine "Bluh Deeh Fuäacke Wôd". Just a bit of Z trivia.

Mike: I'm going to have to buy you a Fuzzy Dash Cover.........and some Dingle Balls. Maybe a Barbie Doll Under Garment Clothes line for the back window. You know the type, with nothing but tiny little bra's, panties, and stockings. Only problem with the Z's is that the Electric Antenna retracts all the way into the body and therefore the topper would fall off! Enrique

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4429 This is the search I pulled: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=34642&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

If you do a search under the subject title of this post you'll find several postings that detail it out completely. In a nutshell, you ALSO need to remove the Heater Cables from the items they connect to (There are 4 cables.) Don't waste time trying to figure out how to remove the Lever Assy from the back of the Chrome Bezel, all you'll do is frustrate yourself and possibly break the Face Plate. Replacements are NLA and even USED ones go for over $75 for "FAIR" condition. New Old Stock are over $100 and higher. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

BEFORE you go spending big bucks on premium priced screws just to be able to claim that they are OEM and therefore "original", why not check the specialty fastener section of a good hardward store. Lowe's has a specialty hardware section. True Value hardware stores also carry an excellent assortment of Metric Screws, EVEN in Stainles Steel. Yes you'll pay a bit of a premium for buying them in real small quantities, but you won't be paying $2.00 EACH or anywhere thereabouts. You will find that the vast majority of them are VERY easy to find and you can get them for as little as 15¢ each in stainless steel for the smaller ones, and still under .50 for the real large fender bolts (again in Stainless). It does require your getting a tap and die set out so that you can identify size and pitch, but in the long run you'll be better off than if you paid someone else to identify them for you. Just my 2¢

The two filaments in the bulbs are: 1) Stop Lights OR Hazards OR Turn Signals 2) Tail or Parking lamps. There are also two separate Flasher Units (the unit that makes the lights go blink-blink). One is for the Hazard Lights and the other one is for the Turn Signals. The one for the Hazards, if I recall correctly is the one by the passenger kick panel, the turn signal one is the one by the steering column. That you report that you used to do the turn signals "manually" says the lights work, but that they don't blink. That says your flasher is not getting warmed up enough to "blink". 2¢

Repairable? Yes, Cheap? Hmmm...not necessarily and it depends on what you would consider cheap. I think you need to help us more by letting us know what kind of experience YOU have as far as welding, bodywork, mechanical etc.. That would allow us to take a blind stab with at least a chance of hitting something. If you're asking how much to have someone else do it, then I'll ask how much money do you have to spend and how critical are you going to be about the job. I'll leave it at that and let others chime in.

IN less than 12 hours and only 4 bids, they're up to $50 They'll go high.

Here's a pic from the earlier consoles, if you look forward of the Auto Shifter you'll see the plastic ashtray. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2596&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 2¢

Here's another picture of another car: Toyota 2000 This is another car that also had influence on the Z. And don't forget the Opel GT, although that one may have been much later. By the way, sorry for the pic of the Jag, it was the only one I had and .... This one came from the same source if I recall. As far as taking this all so seriously, I'm not. In fact, I'm kind of having fun pulling everyone's leg at the "serious" tone here. If anyone's leg comes off due to my pulling, I'll just have to beat you about the head and shoulders with it. Enrique

Here's a pic that doesn't do the Jag justice, but should suffice to support my point. (By the way, "EDIT' won't allow you to upload a picture after being bombed out by the program because the picture is too big, and last I checked 454Kb is LOTS smaller than 1048576 bytes.....grumble grumble.....)

Geeeeeezzzzz!! I can't believe you guys! The Ferrari!? HAH!!!! How about the Jaguar XKE? THAT is the true car to have influenced the Z. Gosh, Alan, how could you have missed it? grumble, grumble.........