EScanlon

If it took him three seconds to get to the middle of the intersection, even figuring an 8 lane street, or 4 lanes per side, and figuring the cop to be in the left most lane, that means 3 seconds to go across 3 lanes. Now figuring each lane to be approx 10-12 feet (I could be wrong) that means either 10ft/sec or 12ft/sec. Which translates to: either 6.82mph or 8.18mph over all speed.... Hmmm, and the cop couldn't avoid him? Something fishy here. Ok, let's presume only 2 lane road, one each side, which would mean maybe 8 to 10 feet....no, that's even slower as then it's 8 ft in 3 seconds. Hmmmmmmmm

In other English speaking countries, meaning "old" English, or the King's English in yet another moniker, the last letter of the alphabet is ZED. That is how it is pronounced. Americans pronounce the Z as Zee. As to why the Datsun Z was named the Z, there are several stories. The most prevalent is that that was it's production Code while being designed. Another is that the letter Z in Japanese has a hieroglyphic or whatever they call their printed letters that is also the symbol for "Ultimate". Yet another is that Mr. K and the other engineers felt that American men would not identify with a car named "Fairlady" (which is what the car was named in Japan) and that they would identify better with a car with initials, like the Jaguar XKE, the Aston-Martin DB-5, and the MG, to name a few. The best research I have found on the subject comes from zhome.com and there the story is generally accepted that it was because the project was designated Nissan Design Project Z because that was the next letter in the sequence they were using. The Fairlady story is also true. The 240 comes from the engine size as the engine size is 240 deciliters or 2400 cc. So, in sequence, Mr. K felt that Fairlady was too effette a name for the American public. He decided to use the engine size and the Project designator in the US. By the way the story behind the Fairlady name is that one of the upper level engineers or vp's for Nissan had seen the movie My Fair Lady and was so impressed with the story line that he felt it was an appropriate "theme" for the car. i.e. from the lower elements of society a true Fair Lady arises. Don't forget Japan was just 20 years past WWII.

Good Job! Now remember this: 1000 Atta-Boys will entitle you to be universally recognized by your peers as an intelligent and kind individual, able to take the leadership role and assist others in matters that will make you be admired for years. Note: One AWSH!T wipes the record clean and you have to start over again.

240znz explained it well, but there were a couple other items. The "European" items are these: Amber Turn Signal on Rear Light Assy. Clear Turn Signal on Front Light Assy. Bumpers do not have the Rubber Strips and / or the Bumper Guards. (I may have this one a bit muddled up) There are no doubt other items that are also called "European" but I can't recall right off the top of my head. Hope this helps.

Or like this, with Gold Z instead of White:

Or the Front of your Car looking like this:

Picture this on the pocket of your T-shirt, or on the back, or on the front:

I'm in Vancouver, WA. If I can help you, let me know. Send me an e-mail and I'll come over and give you my 2¢.

:tapemouth I'm not colorblind, but the red that you see as part of the Nissan "logo" is, I believe, an architectural thing and nothing to do with the Nissan Hamburger.

Maybe I'm daft :stupid: ; but I don't see the difference in the logo. To me it looks as though there's a shiny surface and it's reflecting the windows from the building. Can someone help me see? :cross-eye Thanks

A magazine in the 70's did a comparison on the 240Z stock and the MGB GT, and the Opel GT. Their results were published in Sports Car Graphic; Mar 1970, and reprinted in the book "Datsun 240z & 260Z Gold Portfolio" which is a reprint of many articles. In that article they showed that the 240Z Stock was the only one of the three to have downforce on both the front and rear axles. The other two showed significant UPforce. All of these results were published as being at 100mph. Now, at higher speeds from what others have posted and purportedly other magazines (haven't seen or heard), there is a feeling of "lightening" or lack of control through the steering mechanism. Haven't myself experienced it, since I've been doing some major rework on my car and haven't had it out on a long stretch of highway where I could let it get past 100. However, a couple doubts as to your original post occurred to me. Quote: "Front Air Dam: I'm going to get the MSA II one, no question. It is stylish and is supposed to force air underneath the car in order to create a low pressure zone by moving the air faster. Skirts are to keep the air trapped underneath. Has anyone noticed a significant handling change as a result of this airdam, or is it more cosmetic. " Maybe I'm completely wrong here, but I had always been told by other enthusiasts and racers as well as my engineering classes that the purpose of the front air dam was to force the air in front of the car UP AND OVER the car, and what could not be forced up (due to the plowing effect) would in fact be pushed to the side, PREVENTING the air from entering the area underneath the car. THIS effectively reduces the volume and pressure of air beneath the car which causes it to "suck" down to the pavement. Skirts on the other hand, were to maintain that "plow" and NOT allow the air to rush back in under the car just past the front wheels, and thereby TRAP the LACK of air pressure beneath the car for as long as possible. Now the design of the air dam is what's important in whether it diverts the air to the side or forms a rolling turbulence that builds in front (and this causes some lifting) which then causes the bulk volume of the air to go UP and over the car. Now the rear air dam or spoiler, it's shape was an attempt at reversing the front air dam. By forcing the air sharply upwards, it would cause it to tumble and fill the area behind the car quicker while at the same time creating a vortex that would cause the bulk of the air stream above to ride over and above. Yes drag was increased (made worse; something you didn't explain) but the offset in drag was explained in that the entrance of fumes in to the car were diminished. Now, I studied engineering, and this is from what I recall from 20 + years ago, I may be all hogwash, or it could be that studies since then have demonstrated that what I recall to be erroneous. Looking forward to your reply.

Use your standard 2 or 3 inch putty scraper available at most paint stores. Grind a thin edge to it, on one side only, run the edge under the edge of the tar paper and give it a light tap with the heel of your hand. More than likely it will come off in chunks and will only be a small while before it's all out of there. I wouldn't use Chemical until the very last few small spots, otherwise you'll just melt it and it will be everywhere. The hammer? Yikes guys, you're trying to get RID of problems, why introduce more?

The donated kidney is neither your card to play, nor can you accrue any kind of benefit from that without coming off as a leeching opportunistic scoundrel. Donating the kidney was your DAD'S idea. HE chose to give the kidney, YOU did NOT have any part of that decision making process, and also would not and could not have affected the decision. If you delude yourself into thinking you could have, or that you deserve something for that, you're wrong. I'll guarantee that if you bring it up to your Uncle in any manner, fashion, or form, he'll shut you down faster than a trap door spider with a bug. Simply put, it's none of your concern, nor your business. As far as what he SHOULD do because of that kidney donation? Again, that's between him and your Dad. Sorry, but there are no easy answers in life; there are lots of compromises; and sometimes what you want and what you get aren't in the same arena.

kmack: Were you using a higher wattage bulb than that that is "standard" for the car? I've read in several posts that if you are just replacing the lights with the same wattage (voltage is the same) as what the car had originally that you don't need to do a complete rewire. Since that's the phase of my project right now, I want to make sure. Thanks in advance. Enrique

Surprise, surprise, surprise! I was not aware of this at all. I was under the impression that the additional code prefixes were just that prefixes and not completely new series. Alan, just for my own curiosity, could you post where you got that from so I can peruse or order a copy? I'm kind of building a library on the Z and this is one of those items that is definitely going to need "Right Here, read this!" proof. I'm not doubting you, but I'm sure there will be some folks that will doubt ME. By the way Wally, I also did a few years in the AF. I was NCO, whereas you may be CO. If so, did you run into a Col. Howe? He also bought a 70 Z when it first came out in 70 while he was studying in the Academy. Then he kept it throughout his tour. I helped him restore it back in 88 or so, and would love to contact him to find out how the car fared thereafter. I lost contact with him back in '90. Enrique Scanlon (SSgt.) 379 BMW / OMS Supply Liaison

Galen: Fuel Proof Paint: I used Formula U Fuel Proof Polyurethane Clear Varnish because it specifically said Polyurethane and the article in Sport Z magazine recommended that style of paint. I also had access to Top Flite LustreKote Crystal Clear which is also High Gloss and Fuel Proof, but it is a Polyester Resin. Having used both in my Radio Control Boats, and finding both to be very satisfactory paints, I opted for the Formula U ONLY because the article said Polyurethane. Both of these are available from your local R/C hobby store. I believe Beandip just used a regular MinWax Clear, but haven't been able to reach him on the phone to find out. When I do, I'll tell him to post. Regarding getting together: Currently my car is up on blocks as I do some of the necessary work in order to get it back to the shop to get the spindle pins and rear end fixed. Beandip's IS up and rolling. Send me a Private Message and we can see about getting together for a brew or whatever. Enrique

I vote for just Z The MAIN logo for the site incorporates this into a logo very very nicely, and it would look just great on a T-Shirt or Polo, especially if we remove the wording on the red part. Just the Z. Besides, people WILL ask about it, and that gives us a chance to talk it up!

You could bypass it, but that might cause the wiring and bulbs to burn out or over heat. The Dimmer Switch is a simple Rheostat Coil with a Wiper Contact. If you remember your slot cars, you'll recall the speed control. It had a single wiper contact that slid over this coil of wire. As it slid over the coil it changed the resistance in the circuit and hence the current. That's how this one works. It may be that the coil has become corroded and will not allow contact, OR that the wiper arm has been bent up by someone reaching back there and getting it caught on a sleeve. You CAN check the functionality of the bulbs by shorting the dimmer switch, but if the bulbs ARE burnt out, you will not think that the dimmer switch is NOT at fault when that may have been in fact what precipitated all this. 2¢

Your uncle wants to get rid of a car quickly. You feel that that car is going to be more roadworthy than the Z, yet you are obviously torn in the thought of getting "rid" of the Z. Ok, combine all, put into the thought blender and what about this idea: Approach your local bank for a signature loan that your uncle co-signs. Borrow $2000 and put up the titles to BOTH the Caprice AND the Z as collateral (presuming the Z is paid for). Keep the Z and work on it as you are able to. Make your payments to the bank and buy the Caprice. You'll accomplish several things this way. 1. You'll establish sound credit. Trust me you'll need this later. 2. You get a more reliable car in the Caprice and can now get to work, school and the parts store to get parts for the Z. 3. You get to KEEP the Z and as you fix it and learn from it, it will accrue in value. Right now, if it has problems it will be hard for you to get $2k for it. 4. Eventually once the Z is fixed and running well, you could sell the Caprice and use whatever you get for it to final the Z to your hearts content. Is there a sacrifice involved? Yes, but There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch! TANSTAAFL! Welcome to life as an adult.

I note that other people have seen the similarities to other "clubs" out there. IZCC has been used, so has ZCCA, ZCAR has also been used. Z Driver is yet another site. Trying to stand out by using the shortest, I would vote for just plain old "Z". The logo would be as it is already in use on the home page, you could register the other names and point them here. If you MUST use a lengthy name, then realize that the internet plays a large part of the club, and therefore we have posters from other countries, Denmark and Australia and France to name a few. Why not Zed-Z? The English and Aussies get their Zed in there (yes you Canadians do also) and the rest of the world gets their Z. So in that respect, I'm with Guy-Geo. But then, in keeping with the KISS principle.... Z.org So, by not voting, (cause I'm not particular to any one of the names posted) I'm hoping to get a write-in.

The 70 and early 71 dashes were one style, and could be discerned from the others by the LACK of an indent to the left of the Hazard Switch. Also, typically, the hole ABOVE the Hazard Switch may or may not be open to accept a Fog Lamp Switch, although some people would install lighters there and not in the fuse / ashtray cover in the center console. The Late 71 and 72 dashes were another style, this one DID have the indent to the left of the Hazard Switch for placing a label / decal that denoted the operation of the Hazard switch. Sometime in late 72 or early 73, I'm not sure, and since my car is a 71 haven't researched, there was a Manufacturer change. Technically the parts were supposed to be identical, but they are not as witnessed by these posts. Hope this helps other people.

Since this forum is hopefully used by many people, I felt it necessary to post the warning. Acid, like Paint Stripper is an EXCELLENT tool, IF you know what you are doing. But not knowing, and attempting to learn on the job without someone watching over you who DOES know is like packing your own parachute and hoping you get it right. That you know the difference between full strength and diluted (and I'll bet that the "diluted" was even diluted from it's full Molal solution) is the key here. I saw a guy who claimed to know how to use paint stripper apply it first to the FENDER of his car, THEN he proceeded to apply it to the hood. While he was applying it to the hood, he inadvertently leaned into the fender with his crotch. 5 minutes later he started screaming from the burning from the stripper. Then he got the lacquer thinner he was using to "cut" the stripper and applied some very liberally to the area in the hopes of stopping the burn. THAT was the completely WRONG thing to do, as he then made it worse. Yes he cut the stripper BUT THE LACQUER THINNER ALSO STINGS ON YOUR SOFTER TISSUES. When I saw what had happened, I grabbed the water hose and doused him. Would you believe the guy was mad cause I splashed water on his fender and hood in trying to put his "fire" out? Warnings are NOT to stop knowledgeable people from doing the job, they're made to stop people from assuming that it is something they can do with no knowledge. Just my 2¢

ACID IS DANGEROUS! IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO WORK WITH IT, IT CAN HURT / KILL / MAIM YOU. Knowledge of how to work with other acids is NOT to be considered knowledge of ALL acids. There are some acids out there that will literally explode in the right atmostphere. If you don't know about it, I wouldn't muck with it. Acid is one of those items that has hundreds of stories that begin with "If only I had known..." OR "Everyone WARNED me, but...". I would recommend you get a product called Metal Ready. It is sold by the folks who sell POR-15. It is a ready mixed solution that will both remove rust and pre-etch the metal for any kind of paint, primer, or POR-15 product. I've used it and it works very nicely. It is relatively inexpensive, and if you filter out the gunk, is reuseable. Cure time is not measured in hours but in minutes, and did a superb job on my Gas Tank. Since the areas you are referring to are notoriously prone to rust, you are better off doing the job right with what others have found works rather than trying to forge a new method. Metal Ready, POR-15 and their Reinforcing Mesh, or plain old Welding New Metal are the best ways of dealing with these areas.

Thank you for clearing it up, I knew it was something specific to Japan and the only part of the conversation I could recall was the reference to the angle of view. Seems I had my data messed up. Sounds as if you have no objection to spending a lot of money, these are an accessory to have. At that point, buy a pair of Japanese Fenders, with the holes already drilled. While you are at it, get a pair of Japanese Doors so that you wouldn't have to weld and shut the holes you currently DO have, then mix and swap and VOILA an American Fairlady. Let us know how it goes Erik

That is the style in Japan. As far as I know ALL the Fairlady Z's in Japan had Fender Mounted Mirrors. If you'll notice, they also did NOT have rear fender marker lights. If I recall right, from a friend who was stationed in Japan, their roads are so narrow, that having the mirror mounted on the window frame does not allow for enough angle of view in order to determine if someone is right next to you, but just out of your peripheral vision. Then again, think of the hazzle of having to get out of the car, go around to the front, tweak the mirror, get BACK into the car, and repeat ad nauseum because you never sit down the same way twice. And I agree with everyone else, why mess up a perfectly good paint job to mount two mirrors on the fenders? Besides, are you going to leave the ones on the doors? Or are you planning on filling the holes?