EScanlon

Without sounding aloof or condescending, I'll just post my 2¢. Even when traffic insists on jumping into the space between my Z and the car ahead of me, I try to maintain ample safe distance simply to avoid the "oops" factor. By "oops" I mean, a) Debris falling off the other car, b)Oh Sh!t he ran over that? c)I don't know what it is, but I'm not going over it. In my experience driving in various countries and states, it isn't a specific vehicle, nor person, nor ...? that causes these kind of problems. Trucks, Jeeps, Cars, Convertibles, Motorcycles, Trailers all are susceptible to losing something, and if you follow too close it can make it impossible to avoid the ensuing collision. Same goes for someone following too close. If possible, I change lanes. If not I pull over and let them by. I've even purposely slowed down to as much as 20 mph BELOW the speed limit SIMPLY to let them pass me easily in areas where I couldn't pull over to the side. Am I a wuss? Probably. Definitely when it comes to my Z. I'd much rather leave without damage to my Z and my pride dinged, than my pride undamaged and my Z dinged. Not trying to p anyone off, and I apologize if you feel that this post is a slight, but it isn't. Your Z just needs a careful re-adjustment in your thinking when you drive it. You're no longer driving the easily repairable, parts available, every mechanic can fix car, you're dealing with a Classic. A Fine Car that like a good wine must be savoured to be enjoyed. If you want to do shots, get some cheap tequila and enjoy. There is a paperback book that details driving defensively. The biggest admonition that the book gives is simple: ASSUME EVERYONE IS OUT TO GET YOU! If you drive KNOWING that the moron coming up to the 4 way stop sign is going to run it, slow down or hold off on starting. That way you don't cross his T, if you know what I mean. Worst case? He blows through it and you avoid the smack or he honks at you for taking too long at the intersection. But in BOTH cases, you escape unscathed. Just my 2¢

Mike can you get the T-Shirt with a pocket? Then the small logo (I like the Red /Blue Ellipse) either above or on the pocket. 2¢

Driving a good looking Z that just shines and purrs along the street is like dating a Tall Beautiful Gorgeous Woman. If they're not looking at her, it's cause they're looking at you in a) sheer envy, jealousy, c) they're evaluating you to see why you merit such a prize. You've got to learn to take it in stride. As enjoyable as it can be, it can also be down and outright annoying. Welcome to the Club! You're one of the lucky ones, Enjoy The Ride!

Sarcasm? Here? naaaaaaah But just in case, could you let me know when the moratorium on sarcasm is over so we can have a bit of fun?

A grille Emblem like the older British and European road rally cars have!

The plastic rivets with the pins can be obtained at Lowe's Hardware store in their specialty fastener section. They are a bit bigger than the originals but if you aren't picky they will work, especially in the tail light metal finishers. On the interior plastic pieces they are a bit more difficult as the diameter of the rivet is a tad bigger. (1/4" instead of 6 mm.; if I recall right) Unfortunately, the thin trim is not only very easy to bend, it scratches if you look at it too hard. So, if you feel the slightest bit of resistance to removing it, don't sweat it. Either use the aircraft stripper if you are going for the full paint removal, or use a layer of duct tape that will allow you to scuff the surrounding paint up top and right to the edge of the trim. Then mask it off carefully with some masking tape before you paint. Although the polish / protectant / vaseline / wax idea sounds easy and good, in my experience the close proximity of a waxed surface to the area that I'm painting has usually resulted in a fish eye occurring and NOT a masking of the item that was masked. In my mind, the fish eye is MUCH more problematic than having to take the time to mask the stainless. The ACTUAL color of the front end grille and the Tail Panel Trim Pieces was actually a really weird finish. To quote from "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" Wick Humble describes it as follows: "The original paint is a silver-gray "match scratcher" finish, which retains all sorts of contaminants, especially paste wax." From personal experience, the LAST thing you want to have touch the original paint panels was paste wax. It would literally grip on, and the only way to remove it was to blast it with wax and grease remover, and of course, in order to not muck up the wax job on the rest of the car, this involves removing the panels from the car, etc etc etc. That is why so many of those panels got repainted Flat or Semi Gloss Black. If you cared for your car, it was an even bet that you had wax streaks on the finishers, and again, if you cared for your car, it was easier to repaint them. The main problem was that NO ONE knew the paint formula. Datsun wanted you to buy new ones, and therefore "didn't know" and the paint shops couldn't match that "match scratcher" finish, so everyone matched as "close" as they could. The silver gray sueded finish is UNIQUE, and therefore a very tricky item for a concours restoration. The closest match I've heard of is given in Wick's book; 1 pint DDL 2862 ARGENT with a lot of Suede Additive 200 Units DX265 300 Units DX264 Thin 100 to 150% and spray on fairly dry. Wick recommends you: "regulate air pressure to the high side. Swirl paint around in the cup constantly to help keep texture additives in suspension. Maintain spraying distance and overlap coverage on the final coat, or variations in surface texture may be unacceptable. This paint should have no gloss, so don't expect any." Hope this helps.

2MZ as far as the stainless trim around the tail light openings, I have been able to remove it, granted it takes a LOT of patience and time since the main problem is that they are EXTREMELY easy to bend. Additionally, there is an outfit that sells the duplicated color for the rear panels already in a spray can. Kind of spendy if I recall, but if you're going for that original look well worth it as I've yet to find the paint store that could duplicate it. I'll research and post.

I didn't vote, since I'm just going to give my opinion based on what I know. Ziebart: EXCELLENT stuff when applied to good rust-free metal, i.e. brand new cars fresh from the dealer / manufacturer. When applied to older vehicles that have already had some rust begin in hidden places it pretty much seals it in and IF no further air or water can get to it, will SLOW down the rust pretty much for ages. Note I said SLOW down. The problem with rust, is that once it starts it's pretty much a chemical process that has begun and it doesn't just ~STOP~ because you put a coating on it. Ziebart for the most part is a tar / oil based product that will "penetrate" everywhere. They need to drill access holes for various panels (depending on the vehicle) and will need to keep it for a given number of day's to allow the excess stuff drip out and have them clean it up. UNDERCOATING: Some definition in order here. There are various types of "undercoating" out there. The most popular is a product called Shutz, which is literally liquefied tar with some additional filler material to give it a "spongy" feel when it finally dries. This is what you very commonly see on the undercarriages of cars and wheel wells with that "gritty" black look. It's somewhat hard, but will "give" when pressed. It's main function is to protect the painted undercarriage from paint chips due to gravel, sand, ice, snow, sludge etc. The other type of undercoating is a rubberized undercoating that can either be tinted to match the color of the car with some of the paint for the car, or it can be painted by itself. If painted alone it is usually a milky translucent shade. This stuff is that pebbly looking stuff that is used on the outer side of rocker panels, and behind wheel wells to absorb and deflect rock chips and impacts from the debris kicked up on to the car from the tires. Shutz should never be used on the "exterior" or "visible" side of the car, and although you can use the other on the undercarriage portion, it's cost is usually too high to give you the benefit that other undercoatings can. The main reason for Shutz not being used on the visible portion is that it literally looks as though you smeared road tar on your car. It stays flexible and pliable for years, and as a result protects from dings and scratches excellently. Additionally it adheres to the underside without prior sanding, scuffing or other preparation. About all you need to do is ensure that it's not being shot on top of dirt or other stuff that might flake off. There are also some other undercoatings that come in spray cans or even brushable, but in my experience the Body Shutz works much easier and better. However, NONE of these will STOP rust. POR-15 purports to stop rust. I've bought some, and I'll admit to looking forward to using it but I don't have any personal experience with it, so all I can repeat is what the rep says. POR-15 is closely related to Isocyanate Glues (super glues) these glues use a given amount of humidity (water) from the atmosphere to catalyze and set. From what the rep says, the POR-15 stuff has been specifically formulated to continue to need humidity, not just use a small amount and set. This is the critical "ongoing" protection phase of POR-15, since it purportedly "leeches" out the moisture from the rust and "reverses" the process of rust. Additionally since the additional moisture helps it set harder, it actually ~improves~ with time. Now, I will admit to being a bit skeptical about it "leeching" out the moisture and reversing the rust process, since my chemistry professor pointed out that once you have a chemical reaction, in order to change the product of that reaction it needs to be a reaction that the material will naturally transcend to OR you need to add energy in order to make the change happen. Brief example; Sodium Chloride (NaCl) is plain old salt. But Chloride will react with Aluminum very readily, so much so that it will break the union with Sodium to mix with Aluminum and create Aluminum Chloride. This is the main reason that you will never see vehicles that transit roads that have been salted; in use in airport taxiways and around aircraft. So, for me, the selling point of POR-15 was that it forms a tough and FLEXIBLE barrier that SEALS the metal. Rust can not form in the abscence of Oxygen, and although the rust that will have been coated will not be eliminated (in my view) the remainder of the steel that is coated will not be exposed to the air, and hence allowed to rust. Personally, other than the thickness of the material, and the problem with applying it everywhere, I would literally DIP the entire car in it. But, putting a nice finish as we like on a POR treated surface is difficult. So, what I will do is coat those surfaces that are hidden and hence rust prone with the POR stuff. Floor-Boards, inner fenders, rocker panels and just about everywhere I can brush or spray the stuff EXCEPT where I can see I am going to apply a nice painted finish. Undercarriage? Steam Clean, and then POR on any rusted areas, and finally BODY SHUTZ everywhere else. Sorry for the length. I used to be a body man so I have a bit of experience with all but the POR. Good Luck, let us know what you find. Enrique Scanlon

The preformed hoses are 'de rigueur' if you are going for a concours restoration, but if you are planning on making this a daily driver and plan to enjoy it, then you might find yourself happier and not as poor if you just use standard fuel / water / heat hoses. Trust me they can be used, and no they aren't cloth covered, but you are after all planning on using the car daily. If you were planning on showing the car and wanted the MOST original engine compartment, then definitely, cloth covered original or re-manufactured to original specs. Just my 2¢

I used Rust-O-Leum's Satin Black for the center spokes and hub. The finish is almost exactly what the original was. For the wheel, I used a fuel proof clear urethane, but having looked at the finish Beandip got on his, I would recommend using his paint for the wood part. I'll contact him and ask him to post what he did.

I'm partial to 240's but the 260 and early 280 are so similar other than the bumpers and electronics. Having lived in Michigan, and knowing that you salt the roads, my vote would be to find a car out of the South West, Arizona, New Mexico, West Texas. My wife's 84 Sunbird even with "rust-proofing" and being carefully cared for, by 1990 was showing the beginnings of cancer. I can't imagine what a 30ish car is going to look like unless it's been garaged very very carefully, and literally been pampered. At that point that car is going to be someone's baby and it's going to take a pretty penny to get them to give it up. Unless you find an estate sale and then, well, you know what I mean. This may sound far-fetched and even somewhat expensive, but in the long run, I think that EVERYONE here will agree that the biggest problem is RUST. Trust me, you can't go too far in trying to get a car with the LEAST amount of rust. Just my 2¢

The "spring" between the column and the steering wheel, are you referring to the little copper contact arm? Because that's the ONLY item that could be construed as a spring between the steering wheel and the column. I'm thinking that when you disassembled the whole steering wheel assembly in order to get paint on all the spokes and center part of the body, you had to disassemble the center horn portion. When you did that, you also completely disassembled the horn actuator mechanism. The horn actuator mechanism has a big round spring that keeps it up off the contact portion of the wheel that the center nut pushes down on. Without this spring, the contact plates between the horn actuator plates would come into contact with each other. Additionally, did you check to make sure that the contact wire for the horn from the back to the front of the steering wheel did not come into contact with the other portion of the contact plates? Let me list and paraphrase: The steering column has only the nut and spindle to receive the steering wheel body. The combination switch has a copper tab that sticks out and comes into contact with the back of the steering wheel. This should make firm contact in order to NOT give a warbly tone due to intermittent contact. Check the angle of the contact surface to maximize the contact. Additionally there are a couple of steel spring pins inserted in to the back of the steering wheel which in turn de activate the turn signal mechanism. The steering wheel assembly has a wire that goes through the steering wheel hub body that connects the back friction plate to the contact plate of the horn switch. The nylon round piece gets the contact plates mounted to it via the three screws around the ring, and the rings are separated from each other by the pressure of the spring against the little cone top hat piece and the center hub of the steering wheel. The nylon piece is what keeps the spring compressed, as well as keeping your center pad mounted on to the steering wheel. Look this assembly over, I'm thinking that this is where you have your problem. If necessary, e-mail me and I'll see what I can do to help.

DO NOT USE ARMOR ALL!!! In my experience and others who have also had the same experience, that stuff is worse than heroin for your dash. It causes you to have to give it a fix on decreasing intervals with diminishing results. The stuff I used to advocate strongly was sadly, removed due to lack of sales. I can understand why, it didn't require re-application on a weekly basis and it lasted for months! That was Clear Guard by Turtle Wax. I wrote them and they said that slow sales were the reason for it's discontinuation. They recommend a Formula 2001 Clear Protectant, which I haven't tried and not familiar with. But just don't use Armor All, I KNOW that stuff is some nasty sh!t, and you WILL regret it.

At $25 a pair, even US $ they would be a bargain for just the Lexan covers WITHOUT the chrome trim. The ones I am looking for have a distinctive chrome trim around the headlight cover, and I would seriously question their condition at $25.00 a pair. But I will call and ask. Enrique

Looking for a pair of Headlight Covers with the Chrome Trim for a 1971 240Z. Let me know how much you want for them, and I'll also pay shipping. Thanks in advance. My zip code is 98685 Enrique Scanlon

I've found that a drop of just a couple psi can alter the effort required even in a power ASSIST steering equipped vehicle. Don't know or have information regarding the rest of your questions, but sometimes the best fix is the simplest.

Hey guy, welcome to the club! Regarding a Gas tank, it happens to be one of those parts that are hard to find period. Are you looking for one due to leaks in yours or because of fumes in your cabin? Are you sure you need a replacement and can't refurbish yours? Sometimes some of the things I've mentioned are simple fixes and you don't need the major replace. Again, Welcome Enrique Scanlon

Gene: The 240 system has a pair of vents in the rear of the vehicle providing continuous air exhaust when the vehicle is moving. The Heater select vent that differentiates between Vent and Heat only changes the position of the inside flap that determines whether you get air out of the center and side vents. In both positions the Fresh air is open and allowed to bring air in. In this respect I was in error, but the check of the vent/heat flap rather than being behind the heater motor, is on the main housing, but connected on the left hand side of the box. If you have this flap open to get air out of the center or side vents then NO air is being forced through the heater core. I am aware of 240's with Air Conditioning but only in the late 71 and up models. I may be wrong on this so someone please double check me. To summarize the Heater Control Panel lever operations: To Heat the car: Air lever set to Heat. Temp lever set between OFF and HEAT depending on temperature desired. Def Lever set to Room (Floor). To Defrost: Air lever set to HEAT. Temp lever set between OFF and HEAT depending on temperature desired. Def Lever set to DEF (Inside Base of Windshield). To Ventilate (Forced) Air lever set to VENT. Temp lever has no relation to the operation, BUT usually set to off. Def Lever has no relation to the operation. Closed: Air lever set to OFF Temp lever set to OFF. Def Lever has no relation to the operation. This is from the Owner's Manual for the 1971 240Z.

Geez BadDog sorry, you must think I'm a real jerk for not responding, but your post just got by me and I didn't see it till just now. As far as which method to use, I prefer spraying, but hang on, I also have 3 different air brushes I use. I have a Testors, a Badger and a Pactra? (not sure) as well as a touch up Binks. Depending on the finish I want, I'll get the liquid as if for brushing, then the thinner for air brushing and then pick the gun based on the coverage, area and finish I want. In some cases, it's just as easy to buy the spray can as they sell it. For example: Datsun Side Fender Emblems: I would use the liquid Gloss White with mild thinning after having used the Semi-Gloss (also known as Satin) Black Spray. The Black either by buying their rattle can or mixing and spraying my own. The black semi-gloss tends to look better sprayed than if brushed. Brushing tends to leave brush marks unless you thin, and then if you thin, sometimes leaves thin spots where there isn't enough paint to cover. The White can be literally poured into the letters as long as you place the emblem in such a way as to make the emblem nice and level. (Use a round bubble level for this) This will allow the paint to flow out and give you the "cloisonne" effect of the originals. I use a Pana Vise with the multiple setting swivel head to adjust my emblems until they are perfectly flat and level. I use a bubble level from the old phonograph player days to set up high end turn tables. The bubble level is put on top of the face of the emblem and the vise is moved until the bubble registers dead center. When I pour the paint, I use the small squeeze mixers available at the hobby store to mix small amounts of isocyanate glue or epoxy. This allows me to add paint drop by drop. As far as whether to use Flat Black, or Semi-Gloss or Satin (and believe me there is a difference between Semi-Gloss and Satin) my thoughts are these. Flat tends to capture every bit of the tiniest bit of dirt and dust and somehow never seems to give it up. In short order it looks grungy. Additionally it is very hard to paint with a brush without leaving brush marks. Spraying works best with this, but when you thin it out, it can "gloss" up if you aren't careful about making sure the paint is nice and stirred and STAYS stirred. Semi-Gloss can look very nice, and since the pores or top skin is generally sealed, won't catch a lot of dirt, BUT it does show SOME shine. This shine can cause it to not look "right". In my experience much more forgiving as far as brush marks, but not care free. Satin has the best of both Flat and Semi-Gloss Paints but the problem is that it isn't very easy to find in a liquid form. You can find it in a spray can, and I've found that Rust-O-Leum's Satin Black is the BEST color match for the interior trim pieces of the 240. As far as a masking material? I've used regular painter's masking tape, available at the hardware store or the paint store. There are two General types, one is the standard Manilla Yellow and the other is the Bright Blue. The difference is that the Bright Blue is supposed to give you crisper edges than the yellow. You can even get the blue in vinyl for the thinner widths. If you were planning on doing pin stripes, there is a third type of masking tape that is very expensive, but it is a cross between plasticized masking tape and vinyl. It gives you the best of both, BUT it is very expensive. It's main advantage is that the widths are VERY consistent and true. Although this may not be critical for most uses, it can be critical if you are laying down two stripes of differing widths and you want them separated by a given dimension. Masking Film? I use a latex film called Mask-It. Generally only available through your higher end automotive paint shops, and don't be surprised if they have to order it also. Very expensive, about 20-30 a quart. It's main advantage is that you can use it directly out of the can, it will give you a very thick latex coating that you can write on and then cut very exactingly with a razor blade or X-Acto blade. You can also thin with water and spray on the surface you are working with. There are other masking films both as a film and liquid, best thing I can tell you is to ask the clerk at the hobby store and see what he recommends. Then try it until you find the one you like. Hope this helps, and again sorry for the delay.

Although you might be getting the "right" response from the Brake Fluid, don't forget that it WILL absorb moisture from the air and that it won't burn. So, you are dealing with a fluid that will gain moisture and that if aspirated into the cylinders won't burn. Doesn't sound like something I would want in there.

Emblems and other hard to find items: Andy Russel @ 480-217-7322 z@datsundude.com

Although you might be able to save yourself money by doing the job yourself, there are several things to consider. First, your mechanical ability. If you can do the basics; change oil, filters, spark plugs etc, but wouldn't think of getting underneath a car to drop the tranny to do the job, then maybe having someone else do the job is the way to go. Second, how well equipped your garage is for this type of work. If you already own a jack, jack stands, a creeper, an engine hoist or tranny dolly (don't know if either one is required) a full set of metric tools, a clutch alignment tool etc etc, then you're set up for it. If you have to scrabble through several tool boxes and borrow a friends tools in order to put together the tools you need, you probably are not. Lastly, how much your time is worth. If you are a busy professional, and don't wish to spend the whole afternoon or whole day on the weekend doing this, then by all means use the mechanic. If you can afford it, and the guys reputation is a good one, then by all means have him do the work. Doing this type of work is definitely a "bragging" point, but then again how often do you need to "prove" that you have it? Myself? I go to the mechanic to get a basic tune-up, valve adjust and other heavy mechanical. The reason? Simple, I'm an old body man. Give me a fender to wet sand, great! Tell me to change the oil in the bugger and I'm making an appointment with the mechanic. Is it effete? Maybe, but my car runs like a champ, I'm not posting about how frustrated I am about it not working and I have someone with over 25 years experience working on my car. Cheap? Probably not, but in my book it's cheaper than my hazzling with it. Now the amount? It may be that $500-$600 is expensive, but is that a NEW clutch? What about other parts it will require? To me, it may be that you can find the job cheaper, but then again it might be with cut rate parts, by people who think a Z is an old Jaguar made for Japan. I'll stick to my Z specialist, even if he's a bit expensive, but when he fixes my car, she purrs! Just my 2¢

POR is more closely related to Isocyanate glues than it is epoxy. Don't know whether MEK will thin, cut or nullify it. I do know that the POR folks do sell a thinner for clean up and for thinning for spray painting. The key thing on POR is that it uses humidity either in the atmosphere or in the rust that it is painted over to cure with. Additionally, MEK to thin epoxy? Someone double check this, but I thought it was Acetone that you used to thin epoxies.

Brian just a couple ideas. Re: the engine noise. Contact Gary (Luggnut73 on Zcar.com. Different handle here, but don't remember) He's also in the Forest Grove, Hillsboro area. He's pretty knowledgeable as far as engines, at least much more than I. Worst case post a message to Luggnut73 and he should answer. If you want to get a hold of him right away, send me a Private Message and I'll send you his e-mail address. (sorry don't have his permission to post it freely) Re: the Spindle Pin. My mechanic (told you I wasn't a grease monkey, but go ahead and ask me body / electrical) does his one of two ways. If the lower arm, strut, brake houseing can be removed from the car, then he uses a hydraulic press and a blow torch. If he can't then he uses a combination of the torch and a double nut on the end of one of the threaded ends and tries to get it to turn. That's the trick, once it turns you can get it to eventually slide out. Good Luck I'm in Vancouver Wa just across the Columbia. Gary (Luggnut73) is down on the Oregon Side down by your area. We've been talking with some of the other guys in the area about getting together and do a "mini" drive-in someplace. I'm currently up on stands getting the last of a few repairs done, so I'm hurrying. Let me know if you're interested Enrique Scanlon

Can't imagine that it would be impossible to "tap" POR 15. After all, if the problem is that you got it into the threads, then use the drill bit that would ordinarily drill the hole into which you would then insert the tap, then chase the threads with the tap. Remember, taps are made to cut threads in METAL and as hard as POR 15 is, I can't imagine it to be harder than metal. I would think that the worst thing to happen with the POR and the tap would be that the POR would essentially shatter.