EScanlon

Generally: There is a "speed nut" type of clip on the inside of the tail-lights. That is a flat piece of spring steel which has a hole and two barbed "teeth" that allow a pin to push through the hole and the pin is then gripped by the teeth. That clip holds the chromed plastic trim on the outside of the tail-light which is the final "lock" on the tail-light assembly. Be careful removing this clip as it can easily cause you to break the plastic pin flush with the base of the light. Once you remove this clip, you can proceed with the next step which is removal of the lens from the housing, but note that removing this clip will still NOT free the plastic chrome trim. Don't try to force it off. Next, using warm water, or as hot as you can get it, soften the glue/caulk that holds the lens onto the housing. This might not be a problem especially if the glue/caulk has dried and easily give up the grip, but it can take a bit of time to soften and then allow you to gently pry the lens out of the fitted groove. That's it, HIH E

Yes, replace the tach. You shorted it and that fried part of the internal circuitry. E

If it's an original steering wheel, the peg on the back of the hub may be broken off. If it's a replacement steering wheel, the peg may not have been put in. Aside from that, check the gates and see if they pivot freely. E

If you think the Z bug bites and doesn't let go... the Roadster fever is even worse. Where the Z is a fun car, and I do drive it many places, the Roadster offers the top off fun of a sporty convertible AND nimble response and acceleration. I own all three, a 71-240Z, and two Roadsters, a 67-1600 and a 68-2000. Until you've driven a Roadster or been a passenger in one, you can't really compare it to a Z, and a Z is a blast to drive. That 67.5 2000 is very clean and sharp with many of the highly desireable rare items, in addition to being a low production model year AND a fairly low VIN. You really couldn't ask for more, but there are those who will still "nit" pick it. FWIW E

Guys, it's not necessary to quote the prior message every time you choose to respond. Quote it if there's something you want to emphasize, or address specifically, but quoting to enter a reply.... try the Quick Reply at the bottom of the page, or the Post Reply button. E

Guys, it's not necessary to quote the prior message every time you choose to respond. Quote it if there's something you want to emphasize, or address specifically, but quoting to enter a reply.... try the Quick Reply at the bottom of the page, or the Post Reply button. E

In the picture you re-posted there is a pretty clear shot of the Heater Switch. It is the electrical component on the lower left of the pic. There are no cables that connect to the Heater Switch. Does that clarify things? E

I stand corrected, I was basing my wiring help on the 240 circuitry. While the 77 and 78 have similarities, both of them have numerous connections to the wires from the ignition switch to the coil. Trying to ascertain a specific connection's likelihood of failure based on that, (which is what I originally intended to do) is now too complex for quick analysis. The 240's circuitry only has a few connections in that circuit. The 77 and 78 have several additional relays all part of the ignition circuit. FWIW E

And have you read posts #2 through #20? Even #21 adds to it somewhat. I would think that 19 posts describing how to overcome the problem would enlighten you that EVERYONE has figured out what you broke, AND has given you a way to fix it. Or is there something else going on??? E

Part #5 in the picture in post 25, is THREADED. You adjust it just like you would a nut. If it is "broke" it would just slide back down the rod. E

There's your basic rule of thumb. The key being that it should ADD or CLARIFY the information in the thread. The "bad" revives are the ones that are done with "Me too!" or "I have a similar problem that I still can't solve." Posting that a particular thread or post was the answer for the problem you were working on can fall on both sides of the line... sometimes it's a good revive, sometimes not. Then there are those who feel reviving a thread from yesterday deserves a bonehead award. If you had been here then, then you wouldn't need to repeat it today.... :stupid: E

Yes. The G/W wire at the ignition switch is what provides power to the coil during the Start cycle, and it's the B/W wire that then provides it in the RUN position. If the G/W wire at the switch is not connected properly it won't provide power to the coil via the tach. However, it should be noted that the B/W wire (in the RUN) position actually connects to the wiring going to the tach and hence the coil. Since you mention that it doesn't have spark while cranking, but it DOES have it in the RUN position, it points to the resistor being ok, but not the connection from the switch to the join of the two wires. FWIW E

Why would you have removed the "little heater control knobs"? E

For many of these specific tear downs, most of us use one or all of three books. 1- The Factory Shop Manual (FSM) specific for the year of our car . 2- The Haynes 240Z Manual 3- Wick Humble's "How to Restore your Datsun 240Z" book. There have been threads posted to add or expand the information available in those three books, but they are all good starting points. Sometimes the write up in the book(s) is sufficient for the subject matter. FWIW E

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Have your alternator checked. E

Wrong. The Ignition LOCK actuates the Ignition SWITCH. The Lock is comprised of the Key Cylinder, the housing and the Steering Column Locking Bar. It's ability to hold the key inside the cylinder is not the reason nor the cause of the SWITCH failing. The Switch is attached to the back of the Lock Housing, and is actuated by a metal tab that protrudes through the lock housing from the Key Lock Cylinder. The switch is replaceable, and it is the electrical part of the arrangement (ignoring the Key-In buzzer Switch). If you are having intermittent electrical connections replace the SWITCH. If you are having difficulty with the key staying in the lock, or not turning smoothly, or... replace the Key Cylinder and posibly the Housing. (Depending on the nature of the problem.) E

FYI Those rollers ARE sided. E

I'd examine the wiper pivots first before undertaking revamping the wire harness. The motor is getting resistance from the wiper pivots and linkages, which added to the corrosion on the wires both act together to overload the fuse. Simply removing the wiper motor and the linkages will allow you to disconnect and reconnect the motor's connection which combined with a mechanical pivot cleaning may be all you need. FWIW E

Try this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4429&highlight=removing+dash E

What Carl mentions is only available in the FULL editor (the "Advanced" button below the Quick Reply) and not the Quick Reply box at the bottom of every thread. E

Welcome to the club! Been there, done it, and have the t-shirt, and the shorts, and the sweatshirt.... I have enough to open up a shop. E

Wrong. The 240 heating system only puts out heat through the Defrost Vents (up below the windshield) or out to the floor (door flaps on either side of the heater plenum). The Center and Side (eyeball) vents are strictly for forced fresh air n(i.e. motor driven), the two fresh air valves at the uppermost section of the kick panel are for passive fresh air flow (i.e. as the car moves).

Chaztg: While your post may be accurate as to insurance companies purported behavior, your bedside manner is deplorable. Don't be conned by your self-interest, if an insurance company can find a way to mitigate it's loses, it will employ a batallion of lawyers to ensure it. E