EScanlon

Are you using the choke? Silly question, I know, but you'd be surprised... As Gary mentions, don't assume that something has *automatically* gone bad and start "fixing" or "repairing" stuff that isn't broken. That way lies madness and usually ends up with you getting frustrated and tossing large amounts of money into something very simple. FWIW E

Once again the ability of Z owners to nit-pick a car over the most insignificant details raises it's ugly head... just going to prove that you can NEVER underestimate the power of human stupidity. If it were a roll over 100k car, can someone explain the items that belie that claim? The steering wheel, the seats, the white lettering on the Combo Switch, the Radio buttons all show nice and crisp... sure went to a hell of a lot of work to "fake" a low mileage car. The carpet appears to be OEM styling with very little crushing that was typical of the OEM styling, the seats, the dash, all appear to be in mint condition... must be a fake. The rust on the Master Brake Booster is an exceptionally authentic touch... so is the dust and lack of polish around the inspection lid bumpers... sure went to a lot of trouble to fake you guys out. The wear on the foot pedals is especially artful, just enough to "fake" a low mileage car. The passenger door panel doesn't even show a blister in the chrome edging... a truly well done and hard to do "fake". Once again the biggest obstacles to the value of the 240Z rising prove to be the owners of other Z's themselves. Supposing that you Doubting Thomases are correct... EVEN without the undercarriage shots that everyone demands as well as the obligatory lift the carpet and the asinine refrigerator magnet scraped all over the paint... the cleanliness of the vehicle, it's engine bay, the overall look and appearance surely yield a vehicle that is worth the asking price and more. If it rained soup, you guys would bitch about it not being a flavor you like. My 2¢ E

Year, engine, just a tad more facts, or could you just move over so we can see better... E

Actually Mike (mbarjar), it's you that needs to chill. Arne is just looking out for the possibility of liability to the forum in the case the claims being made aren't factual. Proving those claims involves more than just statements being made. That is beyond the scope of this forum. Even when BOTH sides can be brought to the discussion, it becomes very difficult to discern the truth behind the typed word. In prior cases of this sort, it has been deemed expedient to close the thread rather than expose the forum/club to protracted arguments and possible legal action(s) by one or both parties. Brad (lm71Z) is intentionally NOT naming a specific business which evades the question of legal action by that mechanics shop against this forum. If those charges are shown to be true, and proven in a court of law, then it can be disseminated as information. Until then they can be labeled as libel, which carries legal repercussions. If you wish to ask him via a PM and he choses to respond in kind or via an e-mail, then it is outside the scope of this forum's administrators and moderators. Posting it here before it's proven or ascertained to be predominantly true would not be allowed, and would be dealt with accordingly. Hopefully that clears it up for everyone. E

If you sucked (or got fancy and used a vacuum pump) on the hose leading to the vacuum advance pot and the points plate did NOT rotate at all, then YES, it is a good indication that the vac adv plate is shot. It rides below the points plate and will /can lose the ball bearings that allow it to move freely. Replace it and then test. FWIW E

Those "thin" bumpers are probably, in fact, 240 bumpers that have replaced the original "step" bumpers that the 280's came with. Not a terribly bad mod to do, it is done mostly for the look, i.e. make it look more like a 240; but it does affect the overall safety of the vehicle... which is not exactly Hummer strength. Sadly, the 240 bumpers are little more than ornamental pieces of chrome. The 280's bumpers were beefier and had shock absorbers in their mounts, they were used to comply with the DOT's front/rear impact requirement. Some people hate them, others are indifferent, and there are some who like the overall look. Your mileage may vary. FWIW E BTW, Thanks for your service (both of you), I'm prior Air Force myself.

Few other notes: The INSIDE of the vent and return metal tubes can be scoured with a small length of wire cable that you've soldered / brazed on one end about 1" or so from the end then lightly separated the cable. It's essentially a wire brush for the inside of metal tubes. Rotate the tank over and over again, and then repeat it half a dozen times more once you've added the POR Tank Sealer. You simply CANNOT rotate it too many times. You're looking for coverage EVERYWHERE inside the tank. Once you've drained the excess sealer (don't be surprised to see half the quart come out of the tank), then using moderate air pressure, blow INTO the vent lines and fuel lines, not just a quick spurt, but a protracted burst. You're not looking to blow out ALL the sealer that may have crept into the tubes, but enough that the tubes do not get clogged. If you're doing this on a 280 or later tank with the large fuel filter INSIDE the tank, then you want to blow out the fuel lines several times to ensure that the filter screen doesn't get clogged. FWIW E

Small pinholes can be repaired with POR. The main and most important part of doing the tank with POR is to make sure you clean it as well as possible first, then follow it up with the Marine Clean, then the Metal Ready and then the Tank Sealer. The problems I've read about, (and what the pundits use to discredit the POR system) are due to "shortcuts" or "or-equals" that the users do. (i.e. Simple Green instead of Marine Clean, or just "heavy rinsing", and the worst... hurrying the job) As you clean the tank, if you have a pin-hole, mark it's location, then just before you pour in the sealer, tape the outside with a bit of duct tape. The Sealer will seal the hole and be stopped by the tape. FWIW E

Depending on the amount of UV rays the lenses have received, the yellowing haze could be simple oxidation WITHIN the plastic that no amount of sanding will remove (unless you sand THROUGH the lens). Clear plastic doesn't have the UV stabilizers found in other plastics (few as that may be). As a result it's more prone to cracking and yellowing. Older plastic formulations were specially prone to this, newer ones seem to last a bit longer. FWIW E

First question: Do your seats have the "S" curve springs or the straps? If they are the straps, then it may depend on just how far gone they are. If they are the straps, have the seats been redone with new rubber straps or (as I've seen) nylon straps reminiscent of a lawn chair. Some of the "repairs" I've seen on the bands include adding additional bands from the underside and adding additional straps perpendicular to the original straps. In either case the extra straps try to impart more resistance to the stretch of the old. In the case of the "S" springs: if they're broken... maybe you can wire the ends together, but replacing them may be the only way out and that involves removing the cover. If they're just "tired" then add some elastic strapping (or not so elastic) between the "S" bends from one end to the other. All of these involve making your hands real small to fit in the space below the seat. FWIW E

Hi Kats, good to hear from you. I'm still keeping my eyes open for an original Bridgestone 185 for you, with no luck yet. Life can thow surprises at you. Several events at home prevented me from finishing that part of the project at the speed which I wanted, then as you read above, difficulties in finding the proper front turn signals etc. But I'm hoping to finish it this winter. E

That is exactly where the early cars had them installed, in the dash indent just above the Hazard switch. That's because the Cigar Lighter was mounted on the Fuse Box Cover. I don't know where the cars with the Cigar Lighter mounted on the dash had their Fog Lamp Switch located. Can anyone answer that one? Additionally, referring back to the Side Marker Switch, there was a center console and fuse box cover that split the side marker switch alongside the "Z" emblem, then a later style located the switch on the Fuse Box Cover. It's moved around as far as I've been able to determine. FWIW E

Yes it did, as far as I was able to test it. As far as installing it, it took me a while before I was able to find a pair of the front turn signals with the required bulb that the switch would actuate. I was also finally able to source a workable bulb plug for the rear light bulb and currently have that tied in with the brake lights just for grins. The car's current wiring does not allow for easy addition of that switch, and as a result, I've been carefully examining how to incorporate it without cobbling up the car as a whole. Both the rear and front marker lights require INDIVIDUAL wires to each side (i.e. one to each corner), add to that that the power for the switch must be unswitched in order to function as a true marker light, as such, it isn't a simple insert, run the wires and done. Another thing to add, is that currently I have my fog lamps on a switch located where the side marker switch need sto go. So, adding the side marker switch will involve not only routing new wires but also re-locating the fog lamp switch. I was able to find an old Hazard lights toggle switch that will function as a proper fog lamp switch once I rework it's face ideogram for that change. Then my 1600 Roadster came to me and I spent some time refreshing it and having a blast with it (It's won many 1st place awards in the local area.) But, with money being a bit tight, have resurrected my projects for the Z (and also the Roadster) and hope to have a few items to publish and maybe even sell. Will just received a package from me with some items that he might post about. I'll post my updates as they happen. E

There have been other threads with a similar thought started, although from the "opposite" end (i.e. Japanese Home Market vs. US). http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5441 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14501 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4523 Hopefully this doesn't devolve into the vitriolic argument as to what market the car was designed for. FWIW E

The unhacked wiring shows an in-line fuse holder. Take note that the "fuse" is NOT a fuse. It is a NOISE SUPPRESSOR for the AM band, over and above the condenser at the distributor and alternator. If you really wanted to swap the AM/FM into the car, removing the second half of the Noise Suppressor holder and inserting it into the proper connector is really quite simple. Use a very thin (both in thickness and width) straight edge screwdriver and insert it in the "hump" or "notch" visible at the connection side of the connector. That will lower the small tang on the top of the connector that locks it into place on the connector. Once that's done and before you remove the screwdriver blade, all you have to do is slide the spade connector out the back of the plastic housing. Do the same on the remnant of the other wiring harness. Insert into the proper connector and if you haven't mangled the tang, it will once again lock into place. Presto, Zesto you've swapped the wiring out, and in the FWIW dept, if you're not looking for "Concours" matching interior, go the AM/FM route, you can at least find music on FM while AM is mostly talk radio. 2¢ E

There are TWO sets of wiring connections going to the radio. One is for Power and Speaker, the other goes to the Antenna Switch, those are the two connectors I described. Both styles of radio use the two small wiring harnesses. If memory serves, both the AM and the AM/FM radio have the SAME sets of connectors, but only YOU can verify that (you have the radios right in front of you). But, if it turns out that they are NOT the same connectors, then Yes, in order to avoid cutting and splicing, I'd make a set of jumpers. If you can get the proper spade connectors (male and female) and some shrink tubing, you could make your own "adapter" and not even bother having to get the specific complete connnector (housing and wiring hardware). Alternatively, you could get some of those Red wiring jumpers that splice INTO a circuit without cutting the wire. HTH E

I stand corrected. E

Nut-Nah!!! FIRST, you answer the question, then you can scavenge.... Priority gets given to those that answer the question first, then ask.... Both the AM and AM/FM Radios were very basic as to electrical connections. Ground was done via the case, Power and Speaker connections via a single thin 3-spade connector, with the connectors in parallel alignment (viewed from the side: | | | ). W/B and W to the speaker, L was 12v+ switched. Antenna also used a 3-spade connector, but this one used the wider spades and it's alignment was similar to an electrical grounded outlet (from the side: | = ) the bars of the "equal" sign are further apart than the coarse keyboard ideogram. L is power TO the antenna switch, LR and LW are directional power connections FROM the switch TO the antenna (antenna motor was grounded by it's case). If memory serves LR -raises and LW lowers the antenna. FWIW E

A/C power; it's 12v+, it's directly connected to the Fan Switch Power Lead. It's "hot" when the Ignition Switch is in "Run" and "ACC" mode. E

You might want to put your Year and Model in your Signature. It will help others in giving you more help. I goofed and provided the 240 Dash Removal post I made years ago, thankfully it helped you, but I can imagine that there were items that differed between the models. 2¢ E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6981 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4429 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7291 FYI ALL: Apparently copying a URL link from one post to another does not bring over the ACTUAL link but only the label. I had posted from a previous thread where the same question was asked and I copied my URL Links. I was not aware of the "bug". These should work for you. E

=sigh= Well, instead of just saying "Use the Search!" to which everyone complains about anyway... Here's a few links to several articles that address what you're doing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6981 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4429 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7291 FWIW E

You really do need to do some reading, as this is beginning to sound like a troll prank or like someone who really doesn't know much about cars. Not flaming you, just calling it as I see it. The wires you mention coming out of the "tank thing" are the wires are doubtful as that part is the Fuel Level Sensor. They are typically a pair of "t" studs instead of wires coming out of the tank. There should be two wires connected to it for the Fuel Gauge to operate properly. FWIW E

Add to that that the wiring diagrams at Atlantic Z are woefully inadequate for anything else other than really basic troubleshooting. The only one that I found there that even remotely looks like the Datsun wiring diagram is the "Basic S30" model one (Right hand column, billed as a 72 wiring diagram) and even it is incomplete for anything except the most bare bones of 1970 model vehicles. Do a search here and you should find much better examples. FWIW E

Make sure you remove your fusible link bypass. E