EScanlon

I personally have POR as my undercoating, but if I were to apply some, it would be the Body-Schutz. As far as it "hiding" problems.... well, you should first address those issues before you undercoat. A properly applied coat of undercoating is actually to the car's benefit and PROTECTION when you will be driving on gravel roads or anywhere where you can/will be kicking up debris onto the underside of the car. Think of it as mud-flaps for the bottom of your car. Undercoating applied to a poorly painted, or rust-proofed underside is the reason people don't like it. Just my 2¢ E

The biggest reasont to NOT drive your Z in the winter is your geographic location. They call that section of the country the RUST-BELT for a good reason. Gravel, slush, ice, snow, and the worst part... SALT. You do the math. E

As Sarah pointed out, it sounds as though your cable has INTERNAL corrosion where the cables enter it. You can either buy a pre-made cable at most parts stores, or make your own. They also have them with the Accessory lead you're mentioning (2nd wire). E

No worries, I was just referring to what your message implied, that this site did not have what you were looking for. Look in the Forums under Regional and post all sorts of stuff for your local clubs etc., many guys use those to post local get togethers. I'm not saying to NOT build a different site, just that this site offers so much that to try to replicate or match it IS a lot of work, hence my comment on re-inventing the wheel. But even in building a local club members only website, it still involves a lot of time, money and work. E

As opposed to using THIS site, which has been around for over a decade and is the #1 spot on the internet for information on the Z and is by many standards the best source of information for the Z's and probably has all the information you are thinking to include in your future site .... And don't forget the other excellent builder sites out there...Hybrid Z, Z-Driver and others. So, go ahead, invent the wheel again .... Just my 2¢ E

Could the impeller in the water pump have gone bad? It sounds as though your water pump is gone, not only due to the leaking, but that you're not pushing the water around. That "gulping" may be the coolant boiling. FWIW E

No need to "chill out", just realize that what you are willing to pay or the conditions by which you'll accept to do business by may NOT be the situation that is happening at present. If you DO need the part right away, then you have the choice of buying one of the 2 or 3 that were mentioned to you at the price that they are asking or doing without and waiting for a later time (when you hope the item is still available). It just depends on what you feel the priority is, getting it now, or not spending the money. Just remember that as time goes on, some parts go UP in price. If you're hoping to get a bargain, then go to the classifieds section and put a "Wanted" ad for the item and wait for a response. That one you can keep alive as long as you want. FWIW E

Don't forget that with all that "bypassed" circuitry, all the large draw items are now functioning directly from the battery. Therefore the large amount of "charge" going back to the battery is to replace what is being discharged through the relays. But, if the ammeter is showing a huge charge without the lights, stereo and other items being turned on, then you have a different problem. Your post doesn't specify if it does it all the time or only with the lights etc. on. FWIW E

Kevin; This is your 3rd thread asking the same information that has already been provided on the other 2 threads. Look up those other threads and give the sources listed a shot. Here are the two threads that you started within 20 minutes of each other, even the thread numbers are consecutive: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39378 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39379 HTH E

For those who are "upgrading" their monaural radio to "synthetic stereo" (two speakers hooked up in parallel), this might be the only way to obtain a replacement speaker. The original speakers were 4 ohm, and of an odd size... 5-1/8" and not the "standard" 5-1/4" speakers commonly available for cars. The size just barely squeezes in to the bracket, but the resistance is critical. Finding a 4 ohm speaker is difficult, hooking up two 8 ohm speakers in parallel to the monaural signal overcomes that. FWIW E

Olzed, you might want to point out that since you're in New Zealand, few companies bother to ship overseas at all. Motorsports does, that's a feather in their cap. Troy at Too Intense Restoration has been selling Z parts for a long time. It's a one man operation as far as I know, but in my dealings with him, he's been honest and fair. I'm not aware of it being his sole source of income, but it may be. I do know that at one time his wife was involved until she passed away. Others may have had problems, but from what I've read in their posts, some of it is due to expecting the vendor to bend over backward appeasing them. IMO, some of those rants are exactly that ... rants. Troy has helped bring back parts that are now mainstream items at other vendors, and is also the sole source for others. That being said, call and/or send in your parts order but remember that like another vendor for other Datsun models that I know of, these guys don't have time to reminisce with you about the history of your car and how well it has or has not performed for you. Call, get the information you need, order your part and pay for it. It's forums like these where you can chit-chat about how many miles it's been since you last did something. 2¢ E

Think this through: Why would a fuel pump replacement result in an ELECTRICAL problem afterward? It just doesn't make sense. Especially since you point out the pump IS working properly. Are you sure you did NOT do anything else? Even as simple as changing fuses, re-connecting wires that seemed to go together or even adjusting timing etc. If you are sure that you did NOT do anything else, post back and people will take a stab at it. FWIW E

http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/ Don't know about it's use as a complete body coating, but I have used it in an engine compartment and it still looks great 3 years later. E

Or you could do this with an old 100 watt soldering iron, some acid core solder and some tinning fluid. Heat the hole after putting a drop of tinning fluid into the hole, then just wick a tiny amount of solder into the hole. Once cool, sand it smooth and continue with your body work. The MIG, oxy/acetylene and Propane will all heat the metal substantially and unless you're very good at working fast, there is a very good chance that you WILL warp the metal. It CAN be done with those tools, but it DOES require a good amount of experience with them. The process I'm mentioning is an old body shop trick, that will rarely if ever warp the metal. The biggest caveat is having to neutralize the acid from the acid core solder. A simple wipe with either Wax and Grease remover or Lacquer Thinner and you're done. FWIW E

Careful folks, we're starting to head into political discussions..... no-no's on the forum. Z-train, feel free to start your own thread discussing the merits / demerits of electric cars. Remember that Horse Buggy Owners made some of the same claims regarding gasoline powered "horseless carriage abominations". This thread was started to share the advances of electric cars, and not the point you're making. Z's, your post, while halfway on topic, is more suited to a different forum than here on Classic Z Cars. While you may find that there are many who will agree/disagree with you, it's a point that will only prove to be divisive, confrontational and very much opinion driven on this site. Let's not go there through this forum. My 2¢ as Moderator E

So when is the OFFICIAL Zcon 2011 announcement going to be made? There have been a few ... hints, inuendos, etc. but.... nothing that says, definitively, positively, absolutely..... Will? {nudge, nudge}... It has been mentioned elsewhere, but I'll keep quiet for now... E

Vacuum advance mechanism in the distributor, check it. E

Update your location so that others nearby might contact you to offer help in person. E

Bill; that's an SR20 powered 1200, not the electric one that Gary's referring to. This is the White Zombie: E

August 8, 2010 26th Annual All Datsun/Nissan Show and Shine at Blue Lake Regional Park Northwest Datsun Owners Association (NWDOA) Time: 10:00 to 3:00 Datsun/Nissan Show & Shine (with awards) Bar-B-Que Door Prize Raffle Cost: Car Registration: $15.00 (Registration includes Show/Raffle Ticket/1 Food Pass) For more information contact Dan Uphoff (360) 687-7235 or Dan.Uphoff@wfhonline.org

THIS is the thread you were looking for. It adresses making your own backing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25007&highlight=door+panels FWIW E

Nate: What you are missing is that it was the OP who had failed to either register the car or take it off the street after having it "evicted" from the shared parking area by the apartment complex manager. It wasn't properly registered due to the OP's inertia, the city just did what it does, it tickets then it takes action. Do a search on his prior posts and get filled in. Moonpup, threads DO get closed. A lot of times due to the incessant bickering that goes on, and othertimes because of the divisive nature of a post or replies to that post. Sometimes it's the labeling going on that can foster such bickering... vis a vis your thread police remark. Enough said! Thank you Dennis! E

Nate; When you entered a Coast Guard Base, or other DoD installation, could you drive in with ANY car, or did you have to have the DoD Decal prominently displayed before you were admitted? And if you did NOT have the decal on the vehicle (rental, friends, courtesy car, etc.) you had to go to the Guard Shack and get a temporary permit which you then displayed on the vehicle. Kind of the same thing. It's not the matter of the danger, it's the matter that it hasn't been registered. You can object in either the situation above, or my example of the DoD decal, but you won't be driving in either case. 2¢ E

Nate, there was a prior thread where Sparks explained that it was in his dad's name, etc. E

Pictures!! Surely you took some? E