EScanlon

While you sit there "arguing" with yourself, the yards fees are accumulating each and every day. You could go ahead and bitch to your hearts content.... and discover that the yard fees go astronomical and they sell your Z. Swallow your pride, get the money, go get your car and put your tags on it so it's legal. You can't argue against those people who have the police on THEIR payroll to try to enforce YOUR opinion on the laws that THEY wrote. i.e. you're fighting a batlle that is LOST... not a losing battle. Now, if you want to take it to court AFTERWARDS, go for it. Make sure you have a couple grand to burn and DON'T expect to win. You'll find that this type of revenue is very much protected. Again, each day ADDS to the amount you have to come up with, and it ain't cheap! FWIW E

And don't forget that if you power directly off the battery: 1) you will definitely want to fuse it properly AND 2)remember that your ammeter will reflect a larger charge rate simply because of the added draw directly from the battery that is NOT going through the rest of the electrical system. FWIW E

I bought some at Sears, but they aren't really generic. I'll see if I can post a pic tomorrow. E

The pricing looks good, but the proof is in the actual cover. Years ago I bought a Noah from CoverCraft, for about $200 through an Auto Parts house. It worked well, although I wouldn't claim that it was totally waterproof or worse yet, cat proof. (I don't think there is a cat-proof cover.) Finally after a few years it wore out... simply frayed away. The one in your link may be the same or better, but I haven't any direct experience. E

It's the physical SIZE of the battery that's important. That's where the Group 24 comes in. Too many CCA's is like saying you have too many HP's... If you use them judiciously and not punch the throttle all the time, all you'll get is better and longer use. E

It's not being an extremist, it's precautionary, if you feel it's a personal attack, then your paranoia is showing. One of the things we look for in the threads on this site is to be sure that we don't advise people to check how much gas is in a gas tank using a match for light. You might get away with it, and you might not.... probably won't. Your first post on this thread has this as one of it's key sentences: Which, in plain english says, it's not designed to do something, but I found a trick in order to negate the safety /design features of the item and get it to do what it isn't designed to do. Your second post affirms that you did it, and by implication, that it's perfectly safe to do... i.e. it's ok to bypass the design of the charger, after all you got away with it. Putting batteries in parallel is a common trick to reduce the amount of current load placed on each battery when they're being used to power an item, but you're doing the inverse of that relationship. You're starting the charge with a pair of batteries in parallel with a charger that is, admittedly, not designed to charge the one battery you are going to "fool" it into charging, because of the amperage it would require. I'll admit that it seems plausible, which is why you're getting the little IC chip inside the "brains" of the charger to buy off on it. But, were you safe? Let's write the manufacturer and pose the same scenario to them and ask them if they would publish that as a "safe" work-around to charging a low voltage battery, as you are proposing here. I'll bet they refuse to do so. Why? For the exact same reasons I cited in my cautionary post, and why once again, I'm posting this reply. It's not recommended nor is it safe. You're welcome to presume any amount of knowledge you feel will justify your decisions, and you may find that you were right, or that you weren't. Sometimes you find out right away, other times it takes years, but you usually find out. However, you might recall that our forum is known for being the correct place to get the correct information on the care of your Z. By your own admission, you "jerry-rigged" it into working. You claim to have "worked within specifications of a known brand of product", yet I could not find that same work around on their site BEFORE I posted the first time. So, taking proper precautions for this forum, I posted my views. I did find this line in their Warranty Information document: Like I said, let's pose the question to Battery Tender and see if they agree that it's safe and no problems. Then I'll retract what I posted, fair enough? E

And a pair of pliers will work instead of a wrench in some instances, but it isn't the BEST way to do things. You're seriously over-working your little charger. I'll bet that the little transformer ends up being dangerously hot by the end, and even if it isn't HOT, you're pushing it way PAST it's design limits. Kind of a maximum weight limit on elevators, yes there is a safety factor, but past a given point.... I'll take the stairs. Don't forget that in charging a battery, you're not just looking for a 12v read, you also have to consider it's capacity under load. I've had batteries that read 12v and could hardly get the starter solenoid to click let alone get the engine to turn over. Thats where cranking amps and reserve cranking amps come into play. That's the reason for advising to use a PROPER battery CHARGER and not a TRICKLE charger. We'll just keep our eye on the papers for the upcoming FIRE sale... 2¢ E

That's because it isn't a 73 wiring diagram. The one you posted is the "Basic Model S30 for U.S.A." wiring diagram, which means there isn't a fuel pump relay, just the wiring for it. FWIW E

Although the FAQ, Manual and other tech instructions for this particular charger read that it will CHARGE your battery... I agree with Bart. I just don't think a small transformer plugged into your wall, similar to a radio power supply will have the strength to fully charge a car's battery. Use a proper charger and top off your battery, THEN use the trickle charger. 2¢ E

Maybe you should have kept your mouth shut! E

Steve, The Seat Belt Interlock WAS part of the 73 circuitry. Here's a link to a recent discussion regarding this specific part of the circuitry: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38738 The wiring schematic I posted on there, showing it's for a 73 Z: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36434&d=1275674011 FWIW E

Greg; Good job finding the problem. Even better, getting your lady to help! Just a note for anyone else that reads this, I believe the "green" wire you are referring to is actually a Green/White wire, i.e. Green body, White Stripe. That GW wire is the main feed to the Park Lamp circuit, Side Markers as well as the Dash Lights. The "little circuit board" is actually the Headlight Switch itself, and what you were seeing was the connections to it. As a further diagnosis, your Brake and Turn Signals would have operated normally in the rear, but it was your Park Lights and Side Markers ONLY that didn't function. FWIW E

Rick, you're right. I inadvertently glossed right over that photo. E

Wire transfers are just another form of "Irrevocable" payments. i.e. you literally deposit money into their account. The pictures show a bit of photo manipulation. Pixelation of the colors may be due to a cheap camera, or low resolution, but may be due to enlarging a small, low grade photo with a program that can't handle colors well. The rust on the lower fender is due to the cowl drain going to that area. The drain tube should be extended OUT of the car. Repairing that will probably involve some metal cutting and some filler, which means the fender will have to be repainted. The current dash in the car IS the one with the dash cap. The one in the box appears original, but hard to say from the angle of the picture. The data plate in the engine compartment is missing. Looks like they addressed a LOT of things, and it looks very promising from the photos given. Won't go into price, as I'm not looking to buy or kibbits it's value. I agree that you should arrange a good look/see. It might be a slightly flawed (fender, dash, other items) gem in the rough, or a true Cinderella story. 2¢ E

Wick Humble's book "How to Restore your Datsun 240Z" will be a bigger help than the FSM. E

Well said David. People forget the "ambiance" of the times. During the late 70's, Disco was hugely popular and it's shunned with a strong shudder nowdays. I'm not relating Disco to the ZX, but to the fact that there were numerous trends going on during those years that are now, literally, openly scorned at. Mullets, Farah Fawcett long hair on men, bell bottoms, hip-hugger pants for men, hot pants for women, high heeled shoes for men, polyester leisure suits, are but just some of the ones that come to mind as having negative connotations. Negative connotations... NOW, but back then .... ZX's were designed, targeted and marketed to the "Yuppies" - Young Upwardly Mobile individuals with $MONEY$ and a desire for a "hot" and "flashy" car that was comfortable. Look at the other cars of the era, the Monte Carlo, the LTD, the Lincoln Mark IV, just to mention the land cruisers, and you can see why COMFORT was so important. But enough, Z owners have a bad habit, they constantly degrade and disrespect other cars and sometimes, they especially nit-pick their own marque. Is it any wonder that prices for any car in the complete lineup of Datsun/Nissan are always haggled down? It's the owner's themselves. I'll put it this way, any ZX owner who doesn't like his car, you can give it to me. E

I've got a 34 inseam, so I'm longer in the legs. This is in the 67 1600, the 68 2000 is still in work and as such I can't say it is exactly the same, just that when I have driven it, the distance to the pedals is such that my knees bend a tad just like the 67. Just my two cents. E

Now the Roadster (SP/SR-311) that's another story, you need short legs there. E

Shade Take this for the advice it's meant to be. YOU are the new one on the forum, and in the past few days (you started posting on the 12th), you've amassed 74 posts as of this writing. It is YOU who have bandied an opinion, point, counter-point and otherwise tried to comment on each and every thread that's been on the front page. That's fine to do, but through all this pontificating, your car is still not performing properly. Kind of makes it difficult to accept your "advise" when your own car is having problems and you can't accept even the most basic of advice.... get the car's shop manual and do the troubleshooting listed there. Your last post alludes to having lots of experience with Chevy's. That's commendable, even owning as many cars as you claim to have owned is good. However, the Z is different enough from the Chevy, Ford, Chrysler etc. that it stumps even experienced mechanics of those brands, which is why they come here looking for help. These cars differ from what you're used to. The advise you're getting is specific to these cars, and your refusal to accept it, or apparent unwillingness to accept it, is because you need to "unlearn" some of what you take as gospel. From what I've reviewed of the last weeks postings, everyone has tried to help you, and you have yet to address your own problem car yet, you are very forthcoming with advice to everyone else about items on the cars that you have yet to experience. As someone has already mentioned to you; kick back, read a bit more, learn more about these cars, then participate, otherwise you WILL offend those who've been here longer and have more experience than you. Re-read your last post on this thread with an open mind and see if it isn't YOU who has the "attitude" problem. Go get the manual, fix your car, and then come back for more help. FWIW E

Check to make sure the vacuum advance plate is functional. E

That sounds more like you need to push the driver's side hinge down than adding shims. The shims I had and used actually came off other cars that had been crushed and were parts I salvaged. You can make your own shims, or buy "pre-made" generic shims at auto body supply stores. (Sometimes your paint supply store will have a selection.) If you make your own, as a suggestion, don't just use a piece of metal and punch a hole through it for the bolt, although that works, it makes it difficult to have to remove it if it turns out to be unnecessary. I use "U" shaped pieces of varying thicknesses that I bought or made. The trick here is to keep in mind your end goal. Also, make sure you are using the correct hinge for that side of the hatch, they ARE sided. HTH E

Just look at the "eyebrows" of the center gauges. If they do NOT have crisp angled fronts and curves, chances are it's a cap, or it's been re-skinned. FWIW E

Unless an IPO used emblem adhesive tape. Then he'd be better off using dental floss. 2¢ E

Yes, except that what he mentions is inverted. i.e. His voltage DROPS when the starter is engaged and RAISES on "RUN". That's the OPPOSITE of what should be happening normally, as you know. E

Check the wiring at the Ignition Switch, especially if it's been cobbled by an IPO. The voltage swap you're mentioning happens with the 240 Ignition Systems to lower the voltage on the points while running and reducing the chance of burning them. 2¢ E