EScanlon

Look for a pair of bullet connectors taped back to the main harness rope with blue electrical tape. Same at the Fuel tank for the optional electric Fuel pump and at the front of the car for the optional Fog Lamps. The last two have their corresponding Fuse/Switch circuit finishers by the center console fuse box. The Fog Lamps feed off the Parking / Instrument light circuit and it is highly recommended that you use a switch to in turn operate a relay up front along with a fuse. The Fuel pump set up isn't safety wired, meaning that once you power the pump by inserting a fuse in between the connectors at the fuse box it will run continuously, so it is advisable to connect it also to a fused/relay setup but with an oil pressure (or similar device) kill switch. FWIW E

Why did you need to do this? The OEM Wiring harness has the wiring already in it's circuits, and it's already connected to the door switches and the dome light switch. E

Ahh... it's obviously a thing of "deep" thought. Nonsense. While you can attribute all sorts of complex theories and supernatural heeby-jeebies to it, it isn't as esoteric as you make it to be. The "Timing" of the engine has all been calculated from the beginning of the engine's design, before the first casting of the block even gets poured, the timing is set. Does this mean we need to consider the angle of the even number cylinder axis in relation to the odd number cylinders in a V style engine before we can effect a timing change? Engineers do so during the design, and if you're considering a major change (engine points system to individual cylinder coil/spark systems) then yes you should also. But were not discussing the theory of internal combustion engine timing nor the considerations required to effect system changes on these engines. The question is in the title of the thread: "Easiest way to elinminate points on 240Z", and not "Obfuscations on Internal Combustion Timing that confuse all." The only way to get away from the Mechanical spark generator which are the "points" is to go to an electronic unit. Whether Pertronix, MSD or the 79 ZX Dizzy is the next consideration. (Yes you could go to the individual cylinder spark systems available on newer vehicles but the first word in the title is EASIEST.) Of the three methods, only the 79 Dizzy is a simple Remove and Replace process when done properly (meaning you don't spin the dizzy and you take care to match the position) even including the vacuum and mechanical advance systems. The Pertronix CAN be made to work and so can the MSD, but even the experienced mechanics who have done that mention that they still have to "play with it". E

Sorry, you have it completely backwards. I have the original 71 tach (4-wire) in my car and I'm using the 79 ZX Distributor. I tried the Pertronix in three other cars (two Roadsters-1600 & 2000, and a 73 240), and found that I then had to monkey with the wiring to get them to work. Finally got it to work on the Roadsters (Tach is not part of the ignition circuit in those two) but had problems with the Z's Start, and Run settings with the standard coil and resistor wiring. Finally removed the resistor and was able to run and start, but then found the coil over-heating. At that point I pulled the unit and shelved it. I guess if I'd gone ahead and upgraded the coil, removed the resistor it would have worked, but I was never very comfortable with simple tape holding the small magnet in the piece that replaced the rotor. The tach has never been a problem with my car and has been working fine since 2001 when I bought the car WITH the 79 dizzy installed. Since I had the problems with the Pertronix installation on the 73 I never really ran the car to state that the tach was trouble free, it may have been, but I can't state that as I didn't notice it. E

Don't forget that the 79 dizzy swap has been getting done to the early Z's since about... 1979 or so. If you're building a regular use vehicle and not a race car then that swap is exactly what the Datsun/Nissan only mechanics recommend. If you're building a race vehicle, then even the Pertronix isn't the way to go. I've done both swaps, the Pertronix CAN be problematic, but if you're careful it IS a simple bolt in and use. The 79 dizzy swap, aside from the care in replacing the actual dizzy body (to ensure timing stays true) is a true R&R project. As a side note, the ONLY function of the distributor IS to distribute spark. The Advance mechanisms you mentioned are an INTEGRAL part of the distributor's mechanism to keep the spark at the proper point of the combustion cycle. 2¢ E

Or you could just avoid all the melodrama and go for a 79 280 ZX electronic distributor with an E12-80 module. It simply replaces your stock 240 dizzy and wires in exactly like the 240, with the lone exception of powering the module. FWIW E

I put a clear coating on it, but it wasn't from powder. The finish is excellent and after 5 years (?--Flime Ties) still looks excellent, clean and shiny. I'll see if I can get a pic during the next show break. Powder coating generally requires baking at 400° F or so, which is why it's understandable to be concerned about the process. What I used was Glisten PC from the POR folks. Aside from requiring a special metal cleaner (akin to the Marine Clean / Metal Prep of regular POR) and taking longer to cure hard (PC will generally cure hard overnight, the Glisten PC, depending on temperature and humidity will take as long as 4-5 days), it is still a Do It Yourself type of process. Powder coating however, requires more specialized products, tools and setup... generally requiring your going to a shop that is actively involved in it. Glisten PC will run you less than $100 dollars and you can do more than just one or two pieces. I did the two door panel pieces on my Roadster, 2 Door Sill pieces (much bigger than the Z's), the 3 pieces per door for welting hold down / protection, the radiator overflow bottle, several brass coolant piping pieces, the two halves of the air cleaner, and a bunch of other pieces that I can't recall. I think I got my money's worth as I still have product. Web: http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/ I'll post some pictures later. E

Ditto the above. Bluntly, I've seen cars with the Rising Sun painted on their hoods, doors, trunks, hatch, etc. and it's fine for an individual who insists on swimming against the current, but I don't think that applies to this forum. My vote is to nix the Rising Sun. While there will be those who pooh-pooh the concept of feelings/emotions with the Rising Sun Flag I'll bet that there are symbols that they would object to as well. Some symbols evoke a gut reaction immediately, hence the requested edit of this post. The concept of the Sugar Scoop is novel and artistic. E

Does anyone have a spare front cover? Not looking to merge the "Pay it forward" thread and this, but it's the right time of the season.... I don't have one, otherwise I'd volunteer it. E

Casey; Was that JUST for the Stainless Trim, or did it include the front and rear windshield panes installed for that amount? E

Nope, that next to last post of yours is gold. Let's get some more input. Someone mentioned problems logging in, I had no problems, anyone have problems? Thanks Capt. E

Mike; I wouldn't. Some of those switches have fine plastic pieces that need to "snap" into place for proper operation. If you pack it with grease it won't snap and then you're back where you started. Open up a typical Push On/Off switch and you'll see the small reed that travels in a groove that then locks the button in the on or off position. Also, dielectric grease is a NON-conductive grease (silicon based) used to weather-proof the connection, i.e. humidity, water, etc.. However, because it is non-conductive you don't want to use it where the electrical contact gets cycled, i.e. on/off/on. It works fine at the connectors to components because you're getting a good MECHANICAL contact first that you are then weatherproofing. FWIW E

I'm not the one making changes, but your input through this thread is very much being read and considered. The problem is that with posts like the first one... "Man the new classifieds suck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! " as Arne pointed out, without details is just another wizz and moan bitch. It doesn't help and nothing can be done with it. Even with the positive comments addressing what you DID like lets Mike know what to continue and re-use. Did it take too long to load; what features did you like; what would you remove; what would you relocate; is the size of the font adequate; larger or smaller; are but just the beginning of a bunch of questions that could be asked. Granted, not every one needs to be answered or adressed. But if it bugs you and you don't speak up... then, bluntly, you've got nobody but yourself to blame. E

Double check that plastic milk bottle to make sure it won't dissolve with gasoline. E

The original finish wasn't shiny polish, it was more of a high luster SATIN finish. You can go ahead and polish them, but as mentioned they will show any scrapes from your shoes, butt, or mis-aligned door. Once you have them cleaned up and polished or buffed to whatever finish you decide you DO want to coat them with something, aluminum tends to "gray" out exposed to the air. You could use a clear paint, but the problem with that is that the paint dries hard and can eventually chip, crack and allow the corrosion to begin in the cracks. POR sells a product called GLISTEN PC which is essentially a type of CLEAR POR (not the Clear POR they also sell), but specifically made for application on polished metal as opposed to the regular POR which requires an etched or "toothy" surface. I used this on my Roadster which has not only the sill plate, but also the lower edge of the inner door panel and the door weatherstrip welting overlays in ribbed aluminum. They were polished and treated with Glisten PC about 5 years ago and still shine like the day they were mounted on the car. It's not cheap, but the end result is far better than any clear paint would have given. It does take patience though, you'll apply it and have to wait about 4-5 days depending on temperature and humidity. FWIW E

Mike, that's as good an explanation as anything else. However, just prying up the rubber to try to inject the black caulk adhesive might not fix the problem at all. There are a few spots in the windshield frame where water could easily find it's way into the cowl and the A pillar, as well as in the upper corners. Simply injecting caulk/adhesive might only help channel the water to those openings. Are you sure you have a windshield gasket leak problem? or are you addressing it in the preventive maintenance manner? If you DO have a problem, I'd recommend removing the windshield and examining the gasket and the opening before you try to stop gap the leak. If you're doing preventive maintenance, and the windshield was installed properly, I don't know that I'd do more than simply lift the outer edge and only squeezing enough sealant to help the gasket. Too much monkeying with the gasket could twist it and result in the problem you're trying to avoid. FWIW E

That's a nice Urban Legend about the Battery Acid Fumes causing all that rust. Since it appears on BOTH sides, and in roughly the same amount, it's probably due to the weep holes having been sealed by an over zealous caulker at the assembly line. I've seen several cars with this problem and every one demonstrated the same glob of caulk stuffed into the weep hole at the very front of that channel. The area you are looking at on both sides, is the upper side of the Fresh Air Vent and Front Body Frame Member. The Seam that stands straight up along it's length is where the outer edge and the upper edge were spot welded along it's length. Onto that seam is where the Inner Fender Rubber Seal gets mounted to avoid having the tire splash road water and grime into the engine bay. At the very front of the join, where the outer sheet metal now begins to join the actual Inner Fender sheet metal there is a small gap, about 3/16" or 1/4" that allows any water that may have seeped, leaked or splashed onto the "V" channel that extends all the way to the under Cowl area to drain, sadly, INTO the engine bay. This often got caulked at the factory when they installed the outer fender, thereby PLUGGING that "V" channel so it could accumulate water, debris and eventually rust. Then again, I've seen cars where you pull off a small nest of pine needles, lint and other debris that washed down from the cowl and eventually clogged the weep hole. This is very similar to what happens to the rust at the front edge of the rocker panel and the rear and bottom most edge of the outer fender. The solution will depend on your time, experience and money. Simplest, is to simply cut out the old metal, treat the Fresh Air Vent Tube for rust protection and then weld in new metal. While the inner seam is important for placing and mounting the outer fender to, the outer (the one with the curve) seam only supports the Inner Fender Seal. In other words, make sure you replicate the inner seam (and part of the inner fender) but don't worry too much about the outer seam. As far as the rust on the "A" pillar, it's a long stretch for it to be part of the problem coming from the cowl area (and therefore related to the above mentioned rust), but it is plausible. Granted the car would have had to be stored at a 30° angle for the water to seep towards that back area. A more likely scenario has some gunk getting caught in the "Whale Tail" seal and being held in place. To me, of the two problems you have, the second is probably the more worrisome. As others have mentioned, you're probably going to find a bunch of rust under the tar mat on the floor and probably the rockers as well. FWIW E

Jaye; When you mention the light switch being at fault, did you repair or replace it? If replace, you might want to save the old and see if you can repair it, as the replacements can be spendy. By the way, it isn't necessary to quote the whole previous message to reply to it. Not a big deal, but it just gets cluttered. FWIW E

By the way, Unkle (that's his user name) is a professional locksmith who can really give you info. You can PM him or wait and see if he responds to this thread. E

AFAIK, if the key FITS the door locks as well as the Ignition Lock, then you CAN key the Doors or Ignition to function with the same key. Find a locksmith that's been around for a good while to ensure that he has the old Datsun wafers he'll need in case the ones in your locks aren't the proper combination. (As an aside, if you know the locks are original to the car, check the inside of the glove compartment door and see if there is a key code there. With that he can simply cut you a new key for the doors.) Buying all new hardware is always a sure bet to ensure trouble free operation, however, it can be extremely spendy. As far as the doors not being able to lock, it may be a simple matter of the Door CATCH being too far in towards the center of the car and therefore not allowing the Door LATCH itself and the locking mechanism to fully travel and actuate the door lock mechanism. That's why your door lock stem won't go down, the lock mechanism is in the "safety" catch mode, i.e. first click and not completely shut. To verify this, actuate the door latch with the door open by rotating the cam past TWO clicks. Once there, try to actuate your door lock stem, it should go down. Try to open the door from the outside and it shouldn't do so. Right off the top of my head I can't recall if the interior door latch handle will allow you to override the lock, but check it anyhow. See what this does before you begin disassembling everything. E

Whereas my painting experience is mostly custom or semi-custom. Sometimes with OEM formulations and other times via process. Important thing is that between all of us we post helpful comments to all. But getting back to the OP's car, the job is extremely pleasing and appealing. The depth and luster of that blue makes you wish you could see it personally. Good Job El-Zeta! E

Larry; Your post comes off as if to say that only your definition applies, when that isn't the case. In fact, your definition is only ONE of the MANY facets of Three Stage Paint, which you may be defining by limiting to a specific Tri-Coat process and color. The "tint" coat as you're referring to, isn't ONLY a "candy" style transparent or transluscent layer, it often is the ONLY source of pearl or metallic in a given manufacturer's color code of paint. Both the base coat and the middle coat can and do have metallic, pearl, mica or other properties that when overlaid one over the other give the specific color code it's unique finish. The clear or last coat, is there to enhance the brilliance, clarity and durability of the overall paint job. This is the layer that receives the final polish or "cut and polish". Toyota Whites, Lexus Whites, both use a specific but plain white BASE shade followed by a varying number of PEARL only coats. Alter the number of Pearl coats, or their predominant hue and you have a completely different white than what it takes to match the manufacturer's specifications or to blend the re-paint onto a damaged car. Chrysler Reds use Pearl and Metallic Red in two different formulations to produce the various Reds they're offering in their automotive lineup. Rather than cite every possible permutation of formulas, these are the two most referenced with a casual search on the web. I looked for specific process sheets given out by the manufacturer's but they are hard to locate. Get into the custom colors that House of Kolor and other Custom Color Paint Distributors produce and suddenly your definition seems to apply to only the most severely restricted band of the custom color paint world. For those needing external verification, call your local automotive paint shop, or a local and known to your auto body shop and verify. 2¢ E

The tri-stage middle level can also be metallic glitter. Two stage is the typical Color-Clear which is the most common paint job today, but in older times ( and still available) is the SINGLE stage. The difference is that most single stage many times will not have the same luster of a 2 or 3 stage job. FWIW E

The Heater Fan IS powered through an in-line fuse away from the main fuse box. Look for a Blue wilre that turns to Red as it comes out of the in-line fuse holder (note, it could also be Red on both sides, this is a mis-leading item on just about every wiring schematic I've looked at.) Testing the switch will take me a bit as I'll have to see if I have one handy. FWIW E

Geez Wade, after that stomping you might want to check between your toes for debris! However, although I've been known to share the same tone on other items, I find I must agree with what he wrote. I'll just keep my shoes and socks on when I stomp you! (j/lk) Too often a relatively simple, minor fix item gets transmogrified into this frankenstenian BJ of a Sino-Mayan Fire Drill written in Cyrillic alphabet... and all it was was a simple fuse, wire disconnect, relay replace etc. I've seen beautiful and functional vehicles become projects on the "just replace this and..." school of vehicle repair. In fact, I've bought two, for a total of under $1000. One I repaired with a spare part from my parts car, and the other ended up needing an engine... from the parts car. Both had started as real simple items that were blown way out of proportion by well-intentioned prior owners who decided to start swapping parts in the hopes of fixing a problem. Then with electrickery, one man approaches it with the same amount of technological wizardry that they show on shows like CSI, and ER, with the latest most minute bits of data being required for a preliminary diagnosis let alone a course of treatment, and another guy simply says to stick in a light bulb between two points and if it lights, you're good to go. At times Occam's Razor needs to be applied, other times it's SFM. What was intermittent, suddenly starts working after you beat your head on the dash once or twice. Did you do anything proactive, no, and I'll bet you felt bad about the dent in the dash as well as your headache, but that stupid little problem that was there and not there is now.... NOT there. And you find you'll take it. First thing to do is that you must ask yourself:What was the LAST thing you changed/fixed/replaced? And this is regardless of WHAT it was. I've seen guys go for repairs on the Heater Valve suddenly not have the Heater Blower, or the glove box light, or their Rear Window Defog, simply for having moved the wire bundles that relate to those systems. Second thing is to go to that change/fix/repair and see if you inadvertently failed to re-connect or mis-connected something. If No to both above, then you start looking at components specific to that system. That's where this forum is very valuable in that we'll give you some of the "stick a bulb between these two wires" type of advice; (as well as the MRI/CT scan in some cases); but if you are uncomfortable doing this kind of stuff, then decidedly ... send it to the experts. Even the experts get befuddled with electrickery sometimes. I had a car that killed (as in need to replace) 4 DieHard batteries in the span of 6 months, and their electrical expert (the trainer for the region) checked and re-checked my car each time and told me I'd gotten bad batteries and just replaced the first 3. He assured me ON PAPER that the problem was not with my car as I had told him to replace any parts he felt needed to be replaced in order to stop the problem. On the fourth time I had to be re-started, he told me to take it to a specialist, and based on that specialist's opinion, Sears would either replace or refund my money for the battery, etc. I made an appointment with the man, drove to his HOUSE during my lunch time, the guy came out munching on a sandwich, asked me a couple of questions and during this time he removed ONE screw from a wire from the battery to the body, pulled out a bit of sandpaper, scuffed the hole, replaced the screw, turns to me and says "That will be 20 bucks, and I'll call Sears and they'll swap your battery this afternoon." As he said is what happened. That car drove for 3 more years with that battery before it got totaled in an accident. What was it? The main ground to the body. Because of corrosion there, ALL of the car's electrical system was grounding through incidental contacts, which when the car was parked showed good... but NOT when the car was operating. The battery was being cycled on a horrendous charge/no-charge cycle that was burning up each battery. Ground corrected, problem gone. A simple solution that had defied the best troubleshooting machines and mind at my local Sears. May he was not a JPL Electrical Specialist, but he was more of one than I was at that time. In a nutshell, start simple with very minor "replacements" and "repairs" and you won't blow it way out of manageability. Start throwing parts at it and before long.... How much did you want for that project in your garage that's been sitting for 5 years? 2¢ E