EScanlon

The valve almost looks like a Barrel Bung valve. I'll look later and see if I have a pic of one. White is a good color, although I prefered a bit more vibrant color for mine when I painted it. Here's my gallery with pictures of the 67: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3517 Feel free to ask me anything you want to know about them. E

At first I wondered why a 10 year old thread would be revived, but those pictures are choice material!!! I have one of each, a low windshield 67 1600 and a High Windshield 68 2000 (currently in work), and I can see that you've put in some excellent time to getting things right. One thing I note, the block is missing the Coolant Drain Valve (Left side towards the back, just a plug of some sort), and even though it may seem inadequate, it is convenient when you need it. Unfortunately, once you have everything put back together, the engine bay is extremely tight to work in, and you'll only be able to get a wrench into that area of the block if you remove the splash panel on the left inner fender support. FWIW E

On land! I think he may want to stay out of the underwater portion!!! Those cars would have a serious rust problem. Using your measurements, Florida would be just a bit smaller than Texas! (250,000 sq.mi. vs 268,581 sq.mi.) When in reality it only covers 65,755 sq. mi.. Thanks for the chuckle, E

Start by doing a "Search" here for tons of information. Follow by buying from Ztherapy their video on the SU's. Those two will put you hours ahead. E

I agree as far as the "rust free" aspect. While you may not have found any, I don't think any of the Datsuns ARRIVED in a rust free status. (That may be an exageration, but it's not far from the truth.) As far as the door transplant, I concur with what zKars mentions, and I would question how they adapted the B pillar mount. Did they just carve and cut to make the new latch post fit or did they actually replace the B pillar? The answer there may be a problem by itself. Look at the tar mat on the floor pans. Oftentimes the tar mat is actually hiding the rust. This occurs often enough that it's almost recommendable to remove the tar-mat as one of the first steps in evaluating a vehicle. FWIW E

Good info! I do recall one of the D/Hexagon hubcaps with a Z in the center, or is that just wishful memory? E

This is the OEM wheel / hubcap combination as the vehicles arrived in the North American market. Other markets may have had differences, the main difference that I'm aware of is that the Japanese Home market had a Z instead of the D in the hubcap center. (I may be misinformed, and if so welcome clarification.) Hubcap For the 70/71 Z: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=29933&title=stock-amp-quot-d-amp&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9922&title=d-caps&cat=2 Hubcap for the 72+ Z: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9923&title=73-240z-z-cap&cat=2 Here is the classified photos in the gallery that are labeled as Wheels: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=2 These on the other hand are just a few photos of the slotted mag photos I could find. Note the attachment for the center cap. Some are screwed onto the face, some insert from behind and others just press fit onto the face. Another variation which is not readily apparent is the perimeter of the oval cut out. Some are distinctly smooth curves and others seem to have an angle to them. I couldn't find a pic of the 4 slot variety. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=35524&title=img-1871&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=29720&title=appliance-mags-falke&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=31745&title=240z-slot-rims&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16718&title=rims-for-sale&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=18665&title=73-240z&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27390&title=img-0400b&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33216&title=march-09-005&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=35522&title=cobra-5-slot&cat=2 HTH E

You may be getting misled as to the "original" 1970 rim. The vehicles arrived in the USA with the OEM Stamped Steel Wheel that is more than likely the same one your spare tire is mounted on. Datsun Dealers would remove the steel wheels and hubcaps and replaced them with aftermarket "mags", most commonly using the "slotted oval" variety. The steel wheels and hubcaps now command high prices because of this. Due to the vagueries of obtaining the same wheel on the East Coast, the Mid-West and the West Coast, there are some variations even within the "same" style. There are 4 slot varieties, there are stepped edges and angled edges as well as smooth and stepped transitions to the center flat. Arne is very knowledgeable regarding the various styles, and hopefully he'll chime in. FWIW E

I'll check my Haynes as well, but this could be a leftover bit of information from the Sports Roadster (311S) since that vehicle did use a separate voltage regulator to step down the voltage to ~8v and made it cyclic. With the Roadster this is a common problem, if the Fuel and Temp start acting erratically then the Instrument Voltage Regulator was the item to check. Biggest problem with the Z, is that while the Roadster's Inst. Volt. Reg. was EXTERNAL to the gauges, in the Z it is INSIDE the gauge. That would necessitate a replacement of the gauge. FWIW E

I didn't mean I couldn't find files for the other years, I couldn't find the THREADS for the other years to post Capt's findings to. That's why I merged the threads to make it easier, especially since the title already had them in one thread. FWIW E

On another note, I do have a 24" Wide Ink Jet printer available to me to print off a roll. I also have a 36"W which needs a bit of work to be operational, but if people are interested I could investigate the cost of printing these larger size files. E

I looked but couldn't find files for the other years. I have copies and all of them have the same error you point out. Maybe we could change the title to the thread? Adding the years it applies to would be a start. Thoughts? E

Threads merged for clarity. PM sent to wal280z for diagram update.

I think Arne is spot on. That's the same method we use when we paint R/C car bodies or even the HO Scale Lexan bodies that I've painted. E

It isn't just the Texas shows, it happens everywhere, in just about every state and in just about every category/classification/customization differentiatior you can imagine. It's depressing to lose to what is obviously a "check-book" car. That obvious "bought for show" car that the guy just received from California in a covered trailer and he's putting it up against cars that were not only driven to the show, but that also see use miles during the year. It then really grates when he gets up on stage and "brags" about the car and it's features as being the most desireable bar none; when it's obvious the guy couldn't let the air out of the tires, let alone effect a restoration. The show judges may have categories and most importantly trophies for putting cars into, but when you only have a few imports show up, it can be plainly obvious that every one is getting a trophy when your award reads "Japanese Car in Red paint manufactured in the first 6 months of 1971". Then you have the other extreme, where you simply call your award category "70's Import Sports Cars", and you now have someone complain that a De Tomaso Pantera should NOT be considered in the same vein as a Z because of their original MSRP, even though they're both "Sports Cars" from the 70's. Show organizers are constantly fighting that battle: Do we have a LOT of awards, so that everyone (or the majority) wins one? or Do we only have a few trophies and that way those who win it will have won a really contested award? The first will get you branded as a "shoo-in" show (everyone gets a trophy), and the second has them grumbling that only "those in the know" or who are "connected" win. But the award you obviously won today was People's Choice. And that award is one of the more contentious for the promoter. So, welcome to the Show world, where you are surprised at what people will do for a cheap tube of plastic with flashy metallic highlights. I'm not putting down the awards that are given for well deserved and dedicated effort (you don't get a gold medallion just for showing up), but more for the shows that hand out cryptic "Top Winner" awards to just about every car that enters. Typically these are your newer shows who have to give out a lot in order to get participants to register. Both my cars have received enough awards that I could probably donate them to a new and starting show and sponsoring their complete first year hand out of. But anymore I go for the camarederie between the owners, and register only when I have to in order to be in the same area. If I don't, I'm comfortable parking in the "riff-raff" area and drawing people there. FWIW E PS: One of the sayings the ISCA judges like to bandy back and forth is: "If you got into the car shows for the trophies, then save yourself a LOT of mental grief and money expensed and go to your local trophy shop and have your own trophy custom made. You'll be happier."

Recently I had the same problem with Roadster. After weeks of being convinced that the car was "close" to boiling over, (needle past the center point at 190 (marked) by at least two needle widths), I was convinced that any day now I would suddenly have a torrent of steam explode out of the overflow bottle. However, somehow the engine ALWAYS performed well, and I never seemed to lose any coolant (except what I purged in relieving pressure). So, last weekend I bought one of those infra-red thermometers and tested it with known items. ( Glass of water chock full of as much ice as will fit and water to the top is a solid 32 degrees Farenheit, in fact, this is one of the calibration points that gets used, the other being boiling water.) IR Thermometer read exactly what was expected. Started up the Roadster, let it run until it read "HOT" and then checked the temp at various spots on the engine (thermostat tower, radiator hoses, head, etc.). The result? I was running a rock solid 180 degrees (engine variations usually lower than the 180 of the coolant), while the gauge continued to report (210 +) a HOT condition. So, my question to you guys is: have you checked the accuracy of that gauge? FWIW E

That "drop shadow" is going to be extremely difficult to reproduce in a 2d B/W print. Isn't the shadow a result of the MOLDED numbers and pattern? See the following pictures:

Hey, I'll admit I love it. Heck you might post a copy of it, Mike Gholson, the site owner is bound to get a major kick out of it. I studied Mechanical some time back, and know how "meticulous" engineering mindset can become. As I've said before, the glass is neither half full nor half empty, it's just the wrong size for the amount of liquid. Gotta hand it to you though Leon. E

OK, this is going to be the beginning of a series of engineer jokes... E

I'm not saying that you don't know anything, but I AM saying that the SU's are a different animal than the typical Downdraft or even side-draft carb. Even experienced mechanics have been known to scratch their head with them. Z-therapy has been in the SU business for years and have done a LOT to improve their reliability, fame and responsiveness. As a suggestion, check out Z-therapy's video on the SU's. From what others have said, that ALONE is worth gold. That's a great starting point. Do searches here on just about every string of words that you can think of. Lastly, ASK your question and try to be as specific as possible, or if possible add pictures if they help describe what you're looking at. Hope this helps E

Don't bother "pumping" the accelerator. The carbs are not equipped with power pumps like American carbs have. Additionally, you need to investigate Z-Therapy's video on SU's to get a good understanding on the carbs, and while you're at it, check your vacuum advance mechamism, it may be sticking. This should give you a starting point. E

Datsun-Parts is a known problem vendor. This last ID, "DATSUN-PARTS" is the longest standing ID he has ever had. Here is his ID history: User ID-------------------Effective Date------------End Date datsun-parts................May-01-07...................Present ur-gelis.......................Oct-21-04....................May-01-07 bad-mfr .....................May-12-03....................Oct-21-04 absolutely-ghetto.........Mar-03-03....................May-12-03 2602nv.......................Mar-20-02....................Mar-03-03 Those of us who have followed his history, recall when his reputation was poor, reliability was questionable, and many people had valid complaints that weren't satisfied or addressed. While he may have turned over a new leaf and is maybe now a valid vendor, he still has a lot of baggage with a lot of members to overcome. Do a search for ur-gelis and you'll find a LOT of disatisfied clients just amongst the membership here. The previous names also had additional bad history. He racks up "good" feedback from newbies who don't know from whom to buy, and WHAT to buy, and only later discover they were hood-winked. Sadly those noobies often continue to think it was their fault and not the vendors. If you look at the shift knob offered, as it has been pointed out, you can see that it is NOT "almost identical". If it were, the OP would have jumped on that one some time ago. One person's "equal" is another's "not-even-close", which is where this club is so helpful at finding the CORRECT answers. FWIW E

And once in a while is exactly what Haggerty's allows. Hey, at least you have a commute to drive it in. For some of us, it's 7 steps to the main floor for coffee and another 7 to the office. Commute? Hah! But either way, congratulations. E

Congratulations!! If it's a good paycheck... kudos. If it's in your field of expertise?.... double kudos. If it provides a secure parking lot??? and you can drive your Z????..... Nirvana!!! Good for you! E

Guesses? Now you're really asking for a miracle. Why not see if, of the other members in Colorado, someone is close enough to take a look at your car and give you a WAG. There are too many variables to take into account on a simple text description and a few pictures. 2¢ E