EScanlon

They're normally covered with the vinyl overlay, so you'll be OK. If possible, shoot some rust-proofing into the holes, that reaches all the way to the inner skin of the rocker panels. E

Have you made a decision as to how much you are planning on spending? Or asked another way, have you decided how much to spend and how much you're planning on doing yourself? The answer to those questions will help guide you more than anything else. Then depending on the how much $ and how much labor ratio is then you can get a better idea of where to spend it. East coast pricing has a heavy "rust" tax on it. If the car has been "cured" of rust, it will depend in how much curing has been effected. Better prognosis will mean a higher $ car, and that's a rule of thumb. Yes, you can find exceptions, but you'd be better off working with someone who is "connected" than in trying to find it on your own. As a ~general~ rule, anything EAST of the Mississippi will have the possibility of having been driven on salty winter roads in it's history, how well it fared will affect it's price today dramatically. We've seen really low priced... parts cars, cause that's all they can be, the metal is too far gone. The few real gems found on the East Coast usually exchange hands privately, but you can expect to pay a premium for this service, not always high, but there nonetheless. Other East Coast people come West and purchase a good car for the same price of a poor car back East and then ship it back. Additionally, the GEMS out here on the West Coast are serious contenders for Top Prize out East. Out West, the chances of salt iuse are drastically reduced, but other items come into play. Arizona and other "desert" cars will have great sheet metal but will likely have deteriorated plastic, foam, rubber and vinyl. You can expect to need to replace most of those items. In the Pac NW you'll find that there is ~some~ rusting, but the plastic, foam, rubber and vinyl parts will have survived better. California has some salt in the northern region, and mostly not in the southern, but cars coming from the south may have dubious backgrounds. Not all vehicles are bad, but there are also vehicles that were abused or have questionable titles. However there are some excellent vehicles to be found. One trick that has been discussed here is where a salvaged vehicle will be "restored" purportedly to top notch standards and will be shipped cross-country only to fail vehicle inspections once it arrives. Another is where the vehicle gets various modifications to "improve" the vehicle and ending up with a mish-mosh hybrid that is difficult even for experienced mechanics to work on. Those are some of the ones to watch out for. But there are excellent stories out there too. You're doing the right thing by asking for guidance. Hopefullly, this helped a bit. E

Since you mention that you want to recover the wheel after the foam repair, I might suggest a couple of ways of doing the repair. I'm not familiar with the sponginess of the wheel you are referencing, so based on that, I can't point you to a specific product, but can point to a couple of products that would allow you to do the repair. In R/C circles we have various grades of foam rubber that gets used from cowl gasketing on airplanes, hatch covers on boats and also start up box trestles for the aircraft tool boxes. You will find various thicknesses and hardness ratings. Another place is the Bicycle shop, I used to buy handlebar tape that was foam (albeit very thin), but I recall that you could also get a THICK foam that wasn't already in the tube form (which just slipped over the metal handlebars) which required over-wrapping it with some of the thin foam or the vinyl skin. Lastly, check the PIPE insulation department of your local hardware store, and I'm not refering to Lowe's or Home Depot. While the two larger box stores MAY carry the item, they won't have it out for you to look at and compare. They'll have it in a bag for you to buy 25 feet or so of it. Smaller shops like True Value and/or Ace sometimes have this available by the roll and you buy by the foot. Worth checking. In any case once you've procured the replacement foam, you can either choose to recover the WHOLE wheel in the same thickness / hardness material, or just splice a piece in. If you splice, don't forget to glue the edges of the patch to the original piece to avoid a separation of the pieces when you squeeze them (this is a problem that sometimes happens when you do seat foam re-builds and you're bolstering one part with a different style/texture of foam). FWIW E

I may be wrong, and if so I'm sure I'll be corrected, but you may be referring to the throttle down diaphragm. That diaphragm is there to slow down the "return to zero" position of the throttle. If memory serves it is to avoid having the engine or carbs (not sure) backfire because of the sudden cut-off of throttle. FWIW E

Post a thread, but list them iin the Classifieds.

I can feel your frustration and it is understandable. Unfortunately, and I may be "arse-uming", it sounds as though you've been repairing the car by reacting to what goes wrong. While my assumption sounds "dumb" it is a known problem when doing repairs/restoration/refreshing vehicles. In the list above, I note several items that are definitely in the "comfort" range as opposed to mechanical reliability or safety. The new seat, stereo, upholstery etc. are all items that you chose to repair/replace/upgrade, as opposed to must repair in order to continue operating it. Nothing wrong with that, in fact, it's a good idea to do so especially if your interest is taking a hit, which is exactly where you are at this point. But the other items you mention are all over the car, and that's why I'm mentioning that the repairs seem haphazard as opposed to a definite plan of action. Yes, the car can and will be reliable, but you need to avoid doing ONLY repairs and concentrate on adding some preventive maintenance in the mix of repairs you do. Some of them are plainly obvious, when you change the brake pads, go ahead and get the drums/rotors turned, bleeding the system also will help improve it's reliability. If you note the hoses are questionable, don't reuse them, replace them. The end intent is to increase the reliability not JUST what needed repairing, but also ancillary or connected items. I've heard of guys replacing or rebuilding the clutch master...and ignoring the slave or the connecting line. Fixing the Heater hoses while the whole box is out of the car but NOT checking the control valve or making sure that all the levers, doors, etc. operate properly. While the infamous "while I am there" disease is something that can lead to having a perpetual project in the garage, the inverse of ONLY addressing what needs/must be done can cause you to have to reopen or disassemble part of the car AGAIN just to repair something you COULD have repaired easily the first time. Will it be reliable? That depends on your approach to effecting repairs AND doing preventive maintenance. (and your pocket too, but that goes to your determination.) Can it be reliable? That depends on just how badly mistreated a vehicle you bought and how deep your pocket and your stubbornness is. Hope this helps. E

That "stash" looks an awful lot like Victor Laury's old stash of parts. If it is so, then the parts may be gone because he's moved to Florida. Any idea on where those parts are? E

Be forewarned, they are extremely addicting! Even over the Z. You heard it first here. E

Don't be so gentle with the underside, you may find that there is an undercoating that will laugh at the walnut shells. You may need to use a combination of scrapers, dry ice, and even paint stripper to get it off. But then, DON'T just spray prime and paint, and even more importantly, NOT FLAT BLACK paint. Plain old primer and paint, while very good for the upper exterior of the car, won't survive long on the underside of the car after being subjected to the barrage of small rocks or debris being kicked up from the tires. Instead, opt for a harder paint. Whether something like POR, or LizardSkin, or PickUp Bed liner, make sure that the base properly rust protects the underside metal. FWIW E

The valve almost looks like a Barrel Bung valve. I'll look later and see if I have a pic of one. White is a good color, although I prefered a bit more vibrant color for mine when I painted it. Here's my gallery with pictures of the 67: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3517 Feel free to ask me anything you want to know about them. E

At first I wondered why a 10 year old thread would be revived, but those pictures are choice material!!! I have one of each, a low windshield 67 1600 and a High Windshield 68 2000 (currently in work), and I can see that you've put in some excellent time to getting things right. One thing I note, the block is missing the Coolant Drain Valve (Left side towards the back, just a plug of some sort), and even though it may seem inadequate, it is convenient when you need it. Unfortunately, once you have everything put back together, the engine bay is extremely tight to work in, and you'll only be able to get a wrench into that area of the block if you remove the splash panel on the left inner fender support. FWIW E

On land! I think he may want to stay out of the underwater portion!!! Those cars would have a serious rust problem. Using your measurements, Florida would be just a bit smaller than Texas! (250,000 sq.mi. vs 268,581 sq.mi.) When in reality it only covers 65,755 sq. mi.. Thanks for the chuckle, E

Start by doing a "Search" here for tons of information. Follow by buying from Ztherapy their video on the SU's. Those two will put you hours ahead. E

I agree as far as the "rust free" aspect. While you may not have found any, I don't think any of the Datsuns ARRIVED in a rust free status. (That may be an exageration, but it's not far from the truth.) As far as the door transplant, I concur with what zKars mentions, and I would question how they adapted the B pillar mount. Did they just carve and cut to make the new latch post fit or did they actually replace the B pillar? The answer there may be a problem by itself. Look at the tar mat on the floor pans. Oftentimes the tar mat is actually hiding the rust. This occurs often enough that it's almost recommendable to remove the tar-mat as one of the first steps in evaluating a vehicle. FWIW E

Good info! I do recall one of the D/Hexagon hubcaps with a Z in the center, or is that just wishful memory? E

This is the OEM wheel / hubcap combination as the vehicles arrived in the North American market. Other markets may have had differences, the main difference that I'm aware of is that the Japanese Home market had a Z instead of the D in the hubcap center. (I may be misinformed, and if so welcome clarification.) Hubcap For the 70/71 Z: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=29933&title=stock-amp-quot-d-amp&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9922&title=d-caps&cat=2 Hubcap for the 72+ Z: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9923&title=73-240z-z-cap&cat=2 Here is the classified photos in the gallery that are labeled as Wheels: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=2 These on the other hand are just a few photos of the slotted mag photos I could find. Note the attachment for the center cap. Some are screwed onto the face, some insert from behind and others just press fit onto the face. Another variation which is not readily apparent is the perimeter of the oval cut out. Some are distinctly smooth curves and others seem to have an angle to them. I couldn't find a pic of the 4 slot variety. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=35524&title=img-1871&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=29720&title=appliance-mags-falke&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=31745&title=240z-slot-rims&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16718&title=rims-for-sale&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=18665&title=73-240z&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27390&title=img-0400b&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33216&title=march-09-005&cat=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=35522&title=cobra-5-slot&cat=2 HTH E

You may be getting misled as to the "original" 1970 rim. The vehicles arrived in the USA with the OEM Stamped Steel Wheel that is more than likely the same one your spare tire is mounted on. Datsun Dealers would remove the steel wheels and hubcaps and replaced them with aftermarket "mags", most commonly using the "slotted oval" variety. The steel wheels and hubcaps now command high prices because of this. Due to the vagueries of obtaining the same wheel on the East Coast, the Mid-West and the West Coast, there are some variations even within the "same" style. There are 4 slot varieties, there are stepped edges and angled edges as well as smooth and stepped transitions to the center flat. Arne is very knowledgeable regarding the various styles, and hopefully he'll chime in. FWIW E

I'll check my Haynes as well, but this could be a leftover bit of information from the Sports Roadster (311S) since that vehicle did use a separate voltage regulator to step down the voltage to ~8v and made it cyclic. With the Roadster this is a common problem, if the Fuel and Temp start acting erratically then the Instrument Voltage Regulator was the item to check. Biggest problem with the Z, is that while the Roadster's Inst. Volt. Reg. was EXTERNAL to the gauges, in the Z it is INSIDE the gauge. That would necessitate a replacement of the gauge. FWIW E

I didn't mean I couldn't find files for the other years, I couldn't find the THREADS for the other years to post Capt's findings to. That's why I merged the threads to make it easier, especially since the title already had them in one thread. FWIW E

On another note, I do have a 24" Wide Ink Jet printer available to me to print off a roll. I also have a 36"W which needs a bit of work to be operational, but if people are interested I could investigate the cost of printing these larger size files. E

I looked but couldn't find files for the other years. I have copies and all of them have the same error you point out. Maybe we could change the title to the thread? Adding the years it applies to would be a start. Thoughts? E

Threads merged for clarity. PM sent to wal280z for diagram update.

I think Arne is spot on. That's the same method we use when we paint R/C car bodies or even the HO Scale Lexan bodies that I've painted. E

It isn't just the Texas shows, it happens everywhere, in just about every state and in just about every category/classification/customization differentiatior you can imagine. It's depressing to lose to what is obviously a "check-book" car. That obvious "bought for show" car that the guy just received from California in a covered trailer and he's putting it up against cars that were not only driven to the show, but that also see use miles during the year. It then really grates when he gets up on stage and "brags" about the car and it's features as being the most desireable bar none; when it's obvious the guy couldn't let the air out of the tires, let alone effect a restoration. The show judges may have categories and most importantly trophies for putting cars into, but when you only have a few imports show up, it can be plainly obvious that every one is getting a trophy when your award reads "Japanese Car in Red paint manufactured in the first 6 months of 1971". Then you have the other extreme, where you simply call your award category "70's Import Sports Cars", and you now have someone complain that a De Tomaso Pantera should NOT be considered in the same vein as a Z because of their original MSRP, even though they're both "Sports Cars" from the 70's. Show organizers are constantly fighting that battle: Do we have a LOT of awards, so that everyone (or the majority) wins one? or Do we only have a few trophies and that way those who win it will have won a really contested award? The first will get you branded as a "shoo-in" show (everyone gets a trophy), and the second has them grumbling that only "those in the know" or who are "connected" win. But the award you obviously won today was People's Choice. And that award is one of the more contentious for the promoter. So, welcome to the Show world, where you are surprised at what people will do for a cheap tube of plastic with flashy metallic highlights. I'm not putting down the awards that are given for well deserved and dedicated effort (you don't get a gold medallion just for showing up), but more for the shows that hand out cryptic "Top Winner" awards to just about every car that enters. Typically these are your newer shows who have to give out a lot in order to get participants to register. Both my cars have received enough awards that I could probably donate them to a new and starting show and sponsoring their complete first year hand out of. But anymore I go for the camarederie between the owners, and register only when I have to in order to be in the same area. If I don't, I'm comfortable parking in the "riff-raff" area and drawing people there. FWIW E PS: One of the sayings the ISCA judges like to bandy back and forth is: "If you got into the car shows for the trophies, then save yourself a LOT of mental grief and money expensed and go to your local trophy shop and have your own trophy custom made. You'll be happier."

Recently I had the same problem with Roadster. After weeks of being convinced that the car was "close" to boiling over, (needle past the center point at 190 (marked) by at least two needle widths), I was convinced that any day now I would suddenly have a torrent of steam explode out of the overflow bottle. However, somehow the engine ALWAYS performed well, and I never seemed to lose any coolant (except what I purged in relieving pressure). So, last weekend I bought one of those infra-red thermometers and tested it with known items. ( Glass of water chock full of as much ice as will fit and water to the top is a solid 32 degrees Farenheit, in fact, this is one of the calibration points that gets used, the other being boiling water.) IR Thermometer read exactly what was expected. Started up the Roadster, let it run until it read "HOT" and then checked the temp at various spots on the engine (thermostat tower, radiator hoses, head, etc.). The result? I was running a rock solid 180 degrees (engine variations usually lower than the 180 of the coolant), while the gauge continued to report (210 +) a HOT condition. So, my question to you guys is: have you checked the accuracy of that gauge? FWIW E