EScanlon

Rick: I would presume that the 260 has at least ONE, and more than likely shares the 240's door construction and can accept two. Shouldn't have to remove glass, the outer SS trim definitely and possibly the door panel (to remove the "whisker" strip). Other than that, as Bonzi Lon mentioned. HTH E

Ron, can you post a picture of the area closest to the back of the window opening? That's where you'll see the second notch. E

Randy: Part of the problem in recommending one method or another is knowing how much $ and time you have/want to spend on this. The BEST method is to have the bad metal cut away, and a new floor skin put in. But another good fix is a new piece fashioned to fit properly and then stitch welded around the perimeter until it's a continuous weld. the next best is to have the patch brazed in (as long as it's not going to be a stress point/area). But the key on any of these is to have the rusted metal removed. If the holes in the firewall/floor bend weren't so big, you could probably use the POR paint with their Power Mesh matting, and you probably still could but this is the next best after welding/brazing in my opinion. The holes on the side of the pan, just in front of the seat mounts could probably be done this way. A plain patch which gets riveted or screwed in, should also have the bad metal cut away, but too many people short cut this in order to have a smaller patch, which ends up being a problem. Then you have to consider that it's just a patched hole, and you have to caulk/seam seal properly to avoid getting water in. Then you have the problem of structural integrity, which will be minor unless you rivet every couple of inches and that must be done onto strong metal. And lastly the problem with dissimilar metals and before long.... you have rust again. I would rate this just above a fiberglass patch. Some guys will do the fiberglass mode, but in my experience this is a sure fire guarantee of hiding the rust until it's catastrophic discovery... like when you put your foot through the firewall at speed.... not a pretty thought. I have yet to see a fiberglass job as a patch on metal that didn't start rusting .... right away. I can't think of anyone on this site or others that has discovered a fiberglass patch on the floor that hasn't vilified the prior owner that did that. I would rate the fiberglass and riveted patch jobs as the "El Cheapo" of repairs. (Sorry Walter.) In my experience the POR / Power Mesh repair is much better than either one of those. The best is a proper weld patch or a new floor pan. FWIW E

Bruce: I recall someone saying that Ztherapy had a flat top service, is that still the case? Either a service or exchange, but this is all hearsay so please straighten me out; Is there something that Ztherapy does for the flat tops? If not, what do you recommend? E

Thanks Webdawg for those pictures. When you remove the outside stainless trim and wiper that presses against the window you'll see there are two "notches" in the inner support steel that brace the outside top edge of the door. One will have your current roller (unless the steel bracket holding it in place has rusted away), and the other will not have anything in it unless a prior owner added one. You use two of the same side rollers. Look at the pictures that Webdawg provided and you'll see both the part number to order by and also the "angle" of the individual pieces. IIRC the "angle" of the roller brackets is such that they angle towards the front of the car, and the roller's axis of rotation is perpendicular to the line of travel of the window pane. It's been a while since I've had my door panel, or the outside trim off, so I'm hoping that someone with theirs off of their door can provide pictures for everyone else. HTH Enrique

Take note that these are sided, meaning the Right hand side won't work on the Left. (They're angled to match the glass panes line of travel) And you can put two per door. This sometimes will help with the wind "sucking the pane out of the track" (See: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=31800). FWIW E

It helps (note: helps, doesn't mean it eliminates) if you open the fresh air vents. Not just the one controlled via the Heater Control Panel, but also the two controlled with the pull knob down by the lower corners of the dash. You can also add a second window roller to the door which may also help alleviate this. (See: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=267258#post267258) FWIW E

IIRC the center vent only blows air in the Vent position, but not sure what it does with the A/C on. The later style had vertical ribs that yours isn't showing, maybe that would help. Other than that it might require a trip to a boneyard and scope out other vehicles to find something that can be made to fit. Other A/C owners out there may know more? FWIW E

Dustin, you may be living up to the second half of your "handle" by trying to outwit everyone here. If your intent is to profit from your e-bay win, why all the BS about a guy who works for a dealer whom you know/don'tknow? Your comment: really belies the facts on e-Bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-Vintage-Nissan-Motors-Key-Blanks_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQihZ008QQitemZ180279742894QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW We're all believers in the capitalist system (with exceptions) and understand TANSTAAFL (also with exceptions), so you may be able to still garner one or two blanks for your use while selling off the rest for the amount of your expense. But this smells of your trying to profiteer from everyone here. FWIW E

Elections...where everyone tries to persuade everyone else based on their opinion of their candidate, all derived from watered down and filtered versions of semi-truths released as "press releases" that are very carefully edited to appeal to the mass population. The "fix the world" according to their personal opinion strikes hard at this time. It happened here (to my knowledge) back in 2004, and presume it would have happened in 2000 if the board had been up then. AFAIK that is one of the main reasons politics discussions are actively discouraged. There were TONS of non-topic rants and raves, in and out of many threads. FWIW E

I don't know of many products that can withstand constant immersion in MEK. That's one of the main components in paint stripper. I've seen epoxy products, fiberglass resins, and many "impermeable" paints lifted off or softened irreparably by MEK. Don't know about POR's properties with 100% ethanol, but do know that when I researched it that was one of my questions regarding the percentages of ethanol in gas and what they would do to it and was informed that it would be no problem. The bottom line regarding which product to use, Redkote or POR may boil down to whether you pay someone to do it, or do it yourself. E

Left/Right are the individual headlight fuses. E

I've done it, but I didn't have just "a little rust". I had major rust on the outside of the tank, and visible rust beginning to form on the inside. Additionally, I had my doubts as to some of the seams. I did it, and have not had problems since. Granted, I took care not to plug any of the vent lines. IMO, with your being in Richmond (VA presumably) you have some periods of cold weather where condensation can form inside your tank. A little bit of rust tends to grow into a LOT OF RUST when allowed to. Unless you plan on keeping the tank full ALL the time, with periodic additions of Heet or Ice-Out or some other water remover for gas, you may be postponing a problem instead of eliminating it. FWIW E

Check your combination switch (the one used to turn on the lights), sounds as though one of the wires has broken off. There's a bunch of threads on that specific topic. Try searching for Repairing Combination Switch for starters. You'll find more information than you can imagine. E

Bob: While the site is predominantly "purist" minded, there are enough "modified" vehicles here that it is known and generally accepted that it isn't a PURE purist site. Many of us enjoy seeing the "mods" that some people effect, although there are a few that come to mind where we generally cried. (Anyone remember the "Jar-Jar Binks" mobile?) Don't mind our resident contrarian. Remember Native American Cultures where it was accepted that sometimes some people just simply must take the opposite approach? (See the movie "Little Big Man" and observe the scene where one of the warriors who comes into the camp riding his horse facing backward, jumps off and "washes" with dirt and then "dries" with water.) Well, we have one here. Normally he just wears his AFDB and spouses totally contrary and opposing opinion that most just chuckle at. (Or groan, depending on what gets said.) Went to your site and didn't find any pictures of the Z you speak of. Might you update us when you do put them up? Just my 2¢ E