EScanlon

How does it relate to ambient temperature? I'll wager that the higher the temp is, the more prone it is to failure. That points to one of the capacitors beginning to fail. E

Meguiar's plastic polish is even better when you patiently and carefully use all 3 steps! 2¢ E

I've been using and recommending Sylvania 53BP's for a number of years. FWIW E

They'll fit. This thread is about the Bumper Guards, as labeled within this thread, or Overriders per Nissan's part CD, not to be confused with the tubular bumper Guards offered as an aftermarket accessory (that is commonly referred to as an overrider) which in the front mounted up above the overriders (guards in this thread), which are sometimes called "bumperettes". (The rear overrider bar mounted to the bumper and not the "guards".) But to fit the 71 bumpers you'll probably have to change the mounts (front) and do some modification to the rear bumper or mounts depending if you have the shock absorber mount there. There is lots more info if you do a search for the "early style bumper" or Series I. FWIW E

Electrical failure internally. I've not been able to get with my electronic hobbyist friend to determine how and if one can be fixed... our schedules just haven't coincided. At this point, it might be easiest to replace it, although the supply is starting to get thin. FWIW E

Brian: When I replaced the original speaker in my car (the old one's diaphragm had nearly disintegrated), I was able to pick up a pair of 5-1/4" from Radio Shack. Sadly, Radio Shack no longer carries speakers ... except for the computer or laptop ones. (And a very few ceiling mounts for PA's). Mike's suggestion is good, as it may be the only way of getting better speakers instead of the original 5-1/8". The only problem I see with the MSA speaker box is that it replaces your tail-light plastic surround. That makes it difficult to pop in and out for a car show (supposing you want to appear original). But you can find 6x9 speakers to fit that box that won't overpower the OEM radio. Even if they're 8 ohm you can wire them in parallel and reduce the resistance so that the radio can handle it. Just make sure you're not dealing with 50 watt speakers. Again, 10-20 watt are more than sufficient. Another approach is what I did, which was to buy a pair of 5-1/4" and mount them behind the plastic panels on the side. I had to fabricate the right hand speaker mount, but it's just the mirror reverse of the left. You can find both the 6x9 and the 5-1/4, low power speakers at JCW, and most electronic shops. That they're not overpriced "hi-fi" units won't matter as the radio isn't a hi-fi stereo. FWIW E

I'm probably to blame for throwing in the "opt for a newer stereo.." line, but Brian's question deals with speakers.... lest we hijack this thread too far from it's original intent. 2¢ E

You don't mention if you do or don't have any experience doing bodywork. In my opinion, although it does look bad, it doesn't look terminal. Sure there is a bunch of D/A sanding you'll need to do, and possibly some metal replacement (can't tell if there are any rust-through holes), but for the most part it looks like your typical bondo covered spoiler mount. That is, it was mounted either by using fiberglass resin and finishing it with bondo, or just bondo. I don't see any mounting holes. Based on your pictures, I would D/A with 36 to get rid of the last of the bondo/fiberglass and then step up to 80 or so to clean up the metal. Then evaluate just how pitted the metal is. If it is very pitted, then the chances of it being weakened beyond relief are strong and a replacement hatch would be in order (cheaper and easier). The fender on the other hand, I would work hard at cleaning up and prepping before I decided to cut and patch simply for some pitted surface rust. If it is rusted through, then that's a different story. Just my 2¢ E

Brian, I just went looking for speakers today for one of my projects. Speakers in an enclosure are getting impossible to find. Every shop I spoke with wanted to cut holes, or use existing openings. The problem with our Z's is that our cars weren't designed with the 4, 6, 8, and higher multiple sets of speakers. As a result, you have to "settle" for what you can fit, and not what you want. Add to that that the OEM stereo is very much an underpowered and very basic radio in terms of sound fidelity. It's a 3.5W Monaual AM/FM radio with THD of 10% (tell that to your audiophile friends to get them laughing ) powering a 4 ohm, 5 - 1/8" speaker (NOT a 5-1/4" - surprise!). You're simply NOT going to get HI-FI sound out of it. If you've soundproofed the fenders, and the floors you will probably get adequate sound out of it... as long as you don't exceed what it CAN do. If you put too large a speaker (i.e. Power wise 20, 30 or evern more watts), you simply will not have the power to run it. Double the number of speakers and you run into other problems ... Ohm ratings of the pair. Your best bet is to buy a 10 or no more than 20 watt pair of 4 ohm speakers and run them in parallel (to reduce the overall resistance instead of doubling it as a serial connection would). Don't get fancy with co-axial, or tri-axial, you won't derive any better sound for it. Or... you could opt for a newer stereo. FWIW E

Either painted or powdercoated. Don't think there's another way. E

The only wire that I recall that changes from Red to Blue is the power wire to the Heater / Vent Blower and the Blue lead that is used for Air Conditioning (even if your car did not come equipped with it, the connection was there). But they had nothing to do with the lighting circuit you describe. There IS a Red/Blue wire that connects to the Radio for it's face light, in the same connector that has a Blue wire for the power to the radio itself. But again, while the Red/Blue wire is for lighting the faceplate and IS part of the lighting circuit, the Blue wire is not connected to the lighting circuit at all. The Blue/White wire that connects the Cigar Lighter's Positive comes directly from the Fuse Box and is not part of any other circuit. In fact, it receives it's power from the ammeter and then the fuse box, which means it's live at all times. HTH E

Actually Chris, wouldn't 26 and 27 have used the latch type, i.e. the Aircraft Buckle type of seat belt? FWIW E

Rob, I know the center arm rest you're referring to. Look closely at the stitching on the one in Rick's picture (Sailor Bob), and I'm betting yours did not have the same stitching style. E

The shoulder belt connects to the lap belt on the side opposite the seat belt latch. You'll find a curious rivet that isn't mashed down all the way. If seen from the side you'll note that it has had the shank shaved off, such that it is thinner. Put the shoulder belt over that rivet, pretty much aligned with the seat belt buckle, with the rivet in the center of the "keyhole" on the latch, then rotate it 90°. Hope that makes sense. There's another post with the same subject matter that may have a slightly better description. HTH E

Mike: I hope you did see my disclaimer of "tongue firmly in cheek". I also try to keep replacement parts year correct, but if there's a better item that isn't, better wins. That's why I have a 73 illuminated heater control panel instead of the non-illuminated 71. Same with several other items, what good is form if it doesn't function? My antenna may be from a 78, but it WORKS! FWIW E

Tongue firmly in cheek: I don't know, that sticker on the front of the rope crank, being a different color and all, are you sure it's the right one for your year? J/K Looks good, now don't try telling us that the "restore/refresh" virus hasn't hit you hard! E

IIRC, you can get a shifter from any year AT on the Z and also the 510's. That would open up your options at a Pick-N-Pull. The rear speaker bracket (only one side is commonly available, as the car had a monaural radio) is easier to make than to try to find a "good" example of. Typically it's the RIGHT Rear bracket that people make. That's because very few cars came over with the cassette or 8-track radio, and therefore true stereo requiring two speakers. In a nutshell, a right rear speaker bracket is difficult and almost impossible to find. Additionally, you would be forced to use a modern 5-1/4" speaker and IIRC, the size of the speaker frame on the current (modern) 5-1/4" speakers gives problems in trying to fit in to the older style OEM bracket - which were actually 5-1/8". Then to top it all off, the size of the magnet on the speaker because of the "depth" of the speaker can be a matter of concern. On the Right hand side because of the vent hoses, on the Left hand depending on your antenna mount. This happens when you have co-axial or tri-axial speakers. They'll have a thicker and larger magnet and hence will give you fitment issues. So, in brief, you may be better off making your own speaker brackets to hold the size speakers you want... especially if you're not using a stock radio. And if you are using a stock radio, remember it's only like 3.5 watts or so, and would be terribly underpowered for the average modern 5-1/4" speaker. Hope this helps Enrique

Rick: From the picture you posted: the visible stitching on the seat - where the OEM would have had a heat embossed line; the armrest with stitched padding - where the OEM would NOT have had an armrest at all the stitching on the headrest - further forward of the OEM style and lastly, the extra stitch line on the seat bottom towards the outer edge of the cushion. All those are indications of non-stock seats. Whether it's leather or a very well done vinyl job is something that, as has been pointed out, difficult to ascertain from a picture. So, I'm halfway agreeing with GWGarrard, it is a custom recover, but I won't say it's leather.... other than it looks like it would be. FWIW E

Or the Tach itself could be suffering from Heat Exhaustion. There are a couple of electronic components (capacitors, diodes) that don't fare well over time and heat. Once they start to go, they need to be replaced. That's why you see those cans of compressed air on electronic benches, to "freeze" or cool off the components known to fail under heat. If the item begins working properly, then it's the component. HTH E

Since this is a TEXT forum, did you by chance mean WRITE in English? :stupid: Or haven't you had Remedial English 101 yet? ... OOPS! I'd forgotten you were going to Ark-U, I meant English as a Second Language-A... Besides, this being an International Forum... so SHADDAP!! Joce; Bienvenue ici. J'espere qu'il-y-aura plusieur de questions sur le Zed. Vous trouverai le response ici avec le "Search", ou avec un nouveau "Thread". (My French is extremely rusty...) Feel free to use the search, and if the thread(s) you find don't completely answer your question, then either add to that older thread (and make sure it ADDS to the thread, i.e. don't post "me too!"), or start a new one. Hope this helps Enrique

Just to clarify my points on the pivots: This means DISASSEMBLING them. The pivot shaft through the holder is notorious for getting real S T I F F with age and with both corrosion and old hardened grease. Just by disassembling, cleaning, and re-lubricating alone people have had good results on their OEM wiper motor (including myself). I vaguely recall an article by Bambikiller 240 (RIP) on the total disassembly and re-build of the system. Otherwise someone else may have downloaded a copy. FWIW E

Doing the Honda Wiper upgrade will NOT solve problems if you do not clean the wiper pivots themselves. While you have the linkage arms out, clean and lube the connecting ball and rods as well. FWIW E

If your powdercoater has the quick change gun, he might be able to paint a different color on the backside... but ask him. He might have other issues with it. Rattle can paint would stick, just prep (scuff) the powdercoat some in order to let it adhere. E

Final Wash sounds like "Wax and Grease Remover" which is basically the last substance you wipe on and off the car prior to any kind of painting. It is a highly refined and filtered mineral spirits (although there are other components in there). In my opinion, that's probably the mildest of the liquids mentioned. E

I would first try washing them in plain old soap and water. If the stuff is starting to peel, it may well remove larger pieces and minimize the amount of clean up left. Contact cement cleaner is excellent stuff, but as it's been pointed out ... IT'S STRONG! Try Mineral Spirits (Household Paint Thinner) after the soap and water, then go on to the stronger stuff. 2¢ E