EScanlon

That "drop shadow" is going to be extremely difficult to reproduce in a 2d B/W print. Isn't the shadow a result of the MOLDED numbers and pattern? See the following pictures:

Hey, I'll admit I love it. Heck you might post a copy of it, Mike Gholson, the site owner is bound to get a major kick out of it. I studied Mechanical some time back, and know how "meticulous" engineering mindset can become. As I've said before, the glass is neither half full nor half empty, it's just the wrong size for the amount of liquid. Gotta hand it to you though Leon. E

OK, this is going to be the beginning of a series of engineer jokes... E

I'm not saying that you don't know anything, but I AM saying that the SU's are a different animal than the typical Downdraft or even side-draft carb. Even experienced mechanics have been known to scratch their head with them. Z-therapy has been in the SU business for years and have done a LOT to improve their reliability, fame and responsiveness. As a suggestion, check out Z-therapy's video on the SU's. From what others have said, that ALONE is worth gold. That's a great starting point. Do searches here on just about every string of words that you can think of. Lastly, ASK your question and try to be as specific as possible, or if possible add pictures if they help describe what you're looking at. Hope this helps E

Don't bother "pumping" the accelerator. The carbs are not equipped with power pumps like American carbs have. Additionally, you need to investigate Z-Therapy's video on SU's to get a good understanding on the carbs, and while you're at it, check your vacuum advance mechamism, it may be sticking. This should give you a starting point. E

Datsun-Parts is a known problem vendor. This last ID, "DATSUN-PARTS" is the longest standing ID he has ever had. Here is his ID history: User ID-------------------Effective Date------------End Date datsun-parts................May-01-07...................Present ur-gelis.......................Oct-21-04....................May-01-07 bad-mfr .....................May-12-03....................Oct-21-04 absolutely-ghetto.........Mar-03-03....................May-12-03 2602nv.......................Mar-20-02....................Mar-03-03 Those of us who have followed his history, recall when his reputation was poor, reliability was questionable, and many people had valid complaints that weren't satisfied or addressed. While he may have turned over a new leaf and is maybe now a valid vendor, he still has a lot of baggage with a lot of members to overcome. Do a search for ur-gelis and you'll find a LOT of disatisfied clients just amongst the membership here. The previous names also had additional bad history. He racks up "good" feedback from newbies who don't know from whom to buy, and WHAT to buy, and only later discover they were hood-winked. Sadly those noobies often continue to think it was their fault and not the vendors. If you look at the shift knob offered, as it has been pointed out, you can see that it is NOT "almost identical". If it were, the OP would have jumped on that one some time ago. One person's "equal" is another's "not-even-close", which is where this club is so helpful at finding the CORRECT answers. FWIW E

And once in a while is exactly what Haggerty's allows. Hey, at least you have a commute to drive it in. For some of us, it's 7 steps to the main floor for coffee and another 7 to the office. Commute? Hah! But either way, congratulations. E

Congratulations!! If it's a good paycheck... kudos. If it's in your field of expertise?.... double kudos. If it provides a secure parking lot??? and you can drive your Z????..... Nirvana!!! Good for you! E

Guesses? Now you're really asking for a miracle. Why not see if, of the other members in Colorado, someone is close enough to take a look at your car and give you a WAG. There are too many variables to take into account on a simple text description and a few pictures. 2¢ E

EXCEPT that if you have EVER sold more than 6 items in a year, then you are considered a HIGH VOLUME SELLER and the fees apply. http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/motorfees.html Then in the examples given: With eBay being a very common point from which a lot of people DO sell items, the probability that a person has already exceeded the "less than 6 items in a year" provision is higher, resulting in the person getting charged the FEES. We're both right... with cautions though. E

If you are just hoping to research it's value, without actually selling it, the only way to do so is to OFFER it for sale, but REFUSE to sell. That's what a reserve price gives you. But, the biggest problem with e-Bay auctions, is that you are hoping that the "stars align" properly and you cash in on everything working out. You then pay e-Bay it's share REGARDLESS OF WHETHER YOU SOLD IT OR NOT. So you set your reserve at an astronomical price, and e-Bay recognizes this and charges you a large amount of money for your auction, because it's obvious you're not going to sell the item, unless someone foolishly accepts your unreasonable reserve price. Or you set a rmore easonable reserve price and it's met by the buyer, which means you are now FORCED to sell AND PAY E-BAY IT'S SHARE OF THE SALE, Only then, you find out you didn't know the proper reserve price and you undervalued it by several thousand, and you're out your car, and whatever money you undervalued it at. Which means that it is an expensive method to do some bad research. However, if all you want to know is what would your car bring? Put it up for sale in the Nickel Ads, Craig's list, or other local papers and, again, refuse to sell because they didn't offer what you wanted. You may, at worst, have to pay ad fees in the newspaper and nickel ads, but they'll be a whole lot less than e-bay without the risk AND they won't increase simply because you asked for more money. FWIW E

From seeing the picture, the passenger floor plan IS showing some rust, and more will be found when you remove the tar mat. Pricing is difficult, the car is in pretty good condition... at least at initial glance without pouring over each shot to criticize it, but it IS showing a couple areas that would be questionable, in my experience. As a result, I wouldn't offer much over $1200. FWIW E

From the referenced link to Arne's post: This is a must-do consideration if you are considering the change to a set of lenses with the Amber turn signal. Sadly there are a lot of cars who have the Amber Lenses installed without this lighting modification having been performed and then it just looks dumb. E

And more evidence to the file as to why this kind of repair is referred to as an IPO repair. 2¢ E

Check the floor pans from the UNDERSIDE, same with the rockers. I've seen "spotless" tar-mat covered floors that proved to be swiss cheese. FWIW E

Good thing you at least tried. Why not post pics of the ones you DO have, that way those that are knowledgeable in what it SHOULD have, they can help you identify what is nissing. 2¢ E

One point in this discussion that I think is being overlooked, is that there were a couple other variations to consider here. We are referring to 3 different transmissions. Two with 4 speeds, and one with 5 speeds. The transmissions called out for different shift knobs, pretty obvious no? But consider this: The 4 speed variation: While the 4 SPD WOOD shift knob was the same for either the A or the B 4 speed transmission, there were THREE different part numbers. Difference unknown. The 4 SPD NON-WOOD knob (presumably plastic, the microfiche does not mention material) had a different one for the A transmission and TWO different ones for the B. That's 6 different part numbers for 2 transmissions of the same ... 4 speed... type. The 5 speed showed TWO completely different P/Ns but doesn't mention material, so presumably plastic. Aside from the # of speeds, are we even talking about the same insert? Can we verify that the one in the wood is the same as the one in the vinyl, (or was that an aftermarket one?). Just food for thought... E

Do you have a spare E12-80 module? I had that problem once, and it was when the module decided it was overheating. Replaced it and problem solved. How warm was the engine? Not a real good guess, but as a WAG, it should be a start. E

Then why not make your own? There is a template for the backing for download in the forum showing you dimensions, cuts and hole placements for the board. You could make it out of some ABS or TFE plastic so as to avoid the moisture absorbing problems of particle board. As far as the vinyl covering, if all you want is to cover the board, simple vinyl, leatherette or other ... whatever.... is up to you. Don't listen to those who would criticize it for not being original or to their taste, it's YOUR car, and more to the point, it's YOUR budget. If they feel bad enough about it, they can contribute to your fund to restore it to stock. Replacement skins are available WITH the chrome strip, but again, you'll be spending some money and still having to come up with the backing, whether by making or re-using. But if you decide to go it custom, the key is to be careful and produce a quality product and not something cheesy. So if perfect panels aren't a priority, then do check the classifieds, put a "Wanted" ad, and check e-bay and Craig's list, they're out there. Most expensive will be the shipping. FWIW E

Have you considered running a strong magnet over the area where the fasteners were strewn about? E

Careful... while that diagram may say Basic Model S30 for USA, there are a few items that did NOT show up on the USA model, and items that are questionable. The US basic S30 did NOT have a Passing Light Relay in it's headlight circuitry. It did not have dual license plate lamps It did not have a Thermo Switch Electric Fan in the engine compartment. Lastly, it only had ONE Heater Fan, not two. Additionally, that wiring diagram shows the provisions for the AT Kick Down Switch and interlocks, but does not show the Dual Point Dizzy. FYI E

The items that Conedodger referred to were the Interior DOOR panels. Those unfortunately, are hard to find in good condition... i.e. no speaker holes, no tears, snags, or puncture marks, and lastly, with the chrome strip still showing chrome. Additionaly the original hardboard is infamous for soaking up humidity (that's why there's a vapor barrier) as well as having the clip holes tear out of the edges when being removed. That's why the fiberglass backing is such a good deal. Expect to pay UPWARDS of $400 or more dollars for a set of Interior Door Panels in good condition. In excellent condition.... probably double that. Sometimes.... yes sometimes, a set will pop up on e-bay or Craig's list that is in good to excellent condition... then the bidding will go through the roof. Be sure to take a close look at any pictures as there have been surprises when the item gets delivered. FWIW E

Check with the dealer, some of these parts are still available from them. I'll check for the part number later so you can call them with it, but maybe someone will beat me to it. Additionally, the ZX dizzy is a simple swap system and those CAN be obtained through auto parts stores. You want the 79 280 ZX with the E12-80 module. E

Olzed, are you referring to the auction or to MSA? MSA does differrentiate between the 70-73 and 74 and later. Don't forget that in the US, we only had the 260 for one year, 1974, while you had it for severral more. In fact, if memory serves, your first introduction to the 280 was the ZX model, or am I wrong? FWIW E

Why not check with our site sponsors as they will have EVERYTHING you need instead of waiting for the right item on ebay? That panel would only be 3 dollars cheaper doing their buy it now, than from Motor Sports Auto who help support this site. Additionally, that panel in the auction has questionable tail-light access panels, they don't look right. The shininess of the plastic also leaves me with doubt. Here's a link to Motor Sports Auto's on-line catalog of the interior parts for the rear of your car. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SIC07 In addition to being able to get everything from ONE source, you'll know that they'll fit together and if you have any problems that you can contact them and they'll make it right. They'll also be able to sell you the rivets you need to mount them. (The photo for the tail-light panel shows the fasteners in a bag.) Doubt the auction includes them in the above e-bay sale. You can find bargains on e-bay, but it takes time and patience to sort and sift through all the garbage as well as the over-priced items or items with outrageous shipping charges. Sometimes what you "save" in $ turns into a large pain and expense that eventually costs you more than what you saved. And then doesn't look right. FWIW E