EScanlon

Paul, I would suggest to get it running first then do the upgrade. First check to make sure the points have enough dwell on them then check to make sure you've reconnected the B/W wire at the Coil correctly. To do this, first disconnect the wires at the Resistor. Then, with the Ignition OFF, do a continuity check between the Green/White wire at the Resistor and the Black/White wire at the Coil. If it does NOT check (give a tone, or light up), then check the B/W wire that was connected to the other side of the resistor, you will probably get a tone there. If so, swap the B/W with which you got a tone to the + side of the Coil. You SHOULD have continuity between the G/W at the Resistor and the B/W wire at the coil (this is the "loop" portion of the circuit through the Tach). This is a simple check but it ensures that the coil, resistor, tach and ignition wiring is hooked up to the right connections. Then we'll go from there. E

Sabrina: I don't know this for a fact, but I've heard that if you have a "blown" 240 engine and buy a "short" block from the common engine sellers, they no longer sell 240's nor will they accept the 240 block as a core. Again, this was told to me and I don't recall whom nor if it is valid or not. However, that would explain why some people might have exchanged a 240 for a 280 block. While most people who do that swap would probably opt for the fuel injection etc, some might just want the additional engine displacement, or have replaced the short block. FWIW E

This translates to: I disassemble the car REGULARLY, it's finished when I can no longer find anything to unscrew, unbolt, or pop open, then I re-build it all only to discover that the "ticking" noise I heard was the new wind-up alarm clock I put out in the garage... Maintenance is defined as the weekly disassembly of components that most of us would seriously debate for a week or two and put off even longer. Upgrading, is also on an ongoing basis and defined as: That part is not currently installed on my car and it's bound to be better than the one on my car because I haven't yet disassembled my car to the point of being able to replace that part, therefore I must disassemble it..... All of these combined symptoms are known in the PDX area as Berglund/Moisant syndrome, with a mild case of Frisbyitis. I'll now exit stage left while I duck and run......:bandit::ninja: E

Or you could just disconnect the charger clamps from the cat, put on your glasses and then re-connect to the battery! But I agree, if it hisses...look out! E

Sorry for your loss. Contact the police dept, and see if they can do anything. If not, at leas the dept. of licensing and inquire as to the license plate information. With that in hand, file a lawsuit in small claims court for the vet bill. HTH E

Ron; One big word of caution there, the main problem with that hatch piece is that the spot weld join to the vertical tail-light mount metal is usually just caulked and as a result a TON of rust hides in the space between the metals. Additionally, the caulked seam is on the underside of the piece and behind the tail-light finishers and is often overlooked and ignored. I've seen "rust-free" actually be "rust hidden under a thin metal skin". 2¢ E

Mike: Jim Coffey contacted Banzai some time back about the part and their price...bottom line, they don't charge what's on the web-page, and IIRC the difference was significant. His log on is A7DZ if you want to run a search for his comments. 2¢ E

I might be interested. PM Sent. E

You're in luck, contact Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings. He's in Canada as well, so you'll get better prices. Let him know you heard of him here. http://www.datsunzparts.com/ HTH E

Don't forget that it's a 3-part set. While you can make some things work, others require more work and effort than it's worth. You don't mention if you did replace all of them or just the dash one. If you replaced the set then just find a tach that works with the loom. If on the other hand just the one, then replace it. E

Did you replace the entire harness? Engine and Rear components at the same time as the Dash? If not, you may have other problems other than the wrong tach. I don't recall anyone modifying a 3-wire tach to function in a 4 wire loom. Sorry. E

I think that you're not being told part of the story. From the fault you found, dead short on the hot lead from the alternator to ground, it sounds as though there was a surge of some sort. Conjecture: He got a "jump" from someone and (s)he/they figured the Positive pole of the battery was out visible and not under the fender, hooked up the jump battery positve to the battery negative and the jump negative to the alternator. Alternator's hot lead and fusible link now are the weak link...smoke ensues, fusible blows, alternator wire melts, jump owner disconnects and you get the call..."I don't know what's wrong Dad! I didn't do anything....." Just a WAG, but ....??? E

Why not post what you found that corrected the problem. Even those "bonehead" type items can nip many of us if we're too careless. FWIW E

This was inverted, it should read: DougN has it dead on. Regarding Black as a color option, don't forget the extra bodywork needed in preparation for the black paint. E

And this is not necessarily correct either. Window gasketing is available in various different extrusion profiles. Some require the locking strip, others have the locking strip extruded at the same time the rest of the gasket is made. Some don't require a locking strip because of the method of mounting to the car. While not ALL gaskets require the locking strip, if your gasket was built to REQUIRE the locking strip....it has a purpose. There are also gaskets that ACCEPT an ORNAMENTAL STRIP that has nothing to do with the locking feature on other gaskets. Here's a link to the JCW site showing some of the various types: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2008548/p-2008548/N-111+10201+600003827/c-10101 Here is one that does NOT require a locking strip, although the original replacement may have had one: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2008665/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2008665/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=window+seals Here's a link to the locking strip selection, showing both chrome and black: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2008669/p-2008669/N-111+10201+600003827/c-10101 2¢ E

And on a nice hot day, it is more likely that when the sun has been shining on the rubber and you close the door....POP!! And suddenly one corner or edge of your windshield has popped out of the rubber. As far as eliminating the chrome look, you could either paint (powder coat, or vinyl tape) the pieces black before or after you install (before is cleaner), or you could check with either a truck shop or an RV shop for the expansion rubber for the generic window seal. It's also available from JCW. FWIW E

I don't know if + under the fender was "stock". But you CAN buy a reversed pole battery and put the Negative under the fender. FWIW E

I've searched for a couple of links: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29565 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25746 The first shows you the switch, and the second discusses the wiring and connections you should be getting. Note that the first post has a problem and you need to read the whole thread before you can see where the problem is. E

That it gets HOT says you have a major short circuit someplace. That fusible link did it's job, it's supposed to fail when too much current flows. You might begin troubleshooting by determining what was recently added...new stereo, lights, etc. and start by disconnecting same. Then you might get the car running. FWIW E

Possibly. A lot depends on how much surface area the spoiler offers to tape to, and how well it fits onto the body. Along with that is how clean and smooth your surfaces are. If there's only a thin edge for the tape to adhere to...well, you won't have as much strength to the bond...period. If you do have a lot of area to tape to, but you have to force the spoiler down to conform to the body surface, then you'll be introducing stress onto the adhesive before it has a good chance to set firmly. You can buy the tape in various widths, check out the following link: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Auto-Accessory-Attachment/Home/Prod/Info/ Tons of information there. HTH E

Julio: Yes, the 3M adhesive tape IS strong enough to hold the aluminum strip and the vinyl insert in place. The key is in ensuring the paint is free of oils, wax and dirt, and that the paint isn't prone to lifting. Zedyone: As Arne pointed out, it depends on how the original dealer installed the strips. Some riveted it, others had it taped on. It also might depend on the source of the original aluminum strip. IIRC you would buy the aluminum in lengths that you then cut to fit, and then either just used the pre-attached tape only or went ahead and drilled holes for the tape. Only rarely have I seen the aluminum channel mounted directly to the body without the tape. I'm not sure, but the channel may have been available without the pre-attached tape. Sadly, as pointed out, using the moulding does not guarantee that you won't get nicked. FWIW E

Raz; You posted this same question in several forums. This makes it difficult if not impossible to help you. I wonder if you recall how many or which ones. As Arne pointed out on one of your other posts, check the electrical portion of your ignition switch. E

As Arne mentioned, check your Ignition Switch, the portion BEHIND where you put your KEY to start. I'm thinking the switch itself has slipped or the wiring at the switch has been moved around. E

The ad doesn't give any information on this car, just general reference to the Z. The pictures do show flaws present, but they are undoubtedly due to difficulty in trying to source and properly install parts as well as the cost of doing same. He does however encourage people to call. At this point in time, he has 35 vehicles up for auction, and some very unique and rarely seen vehicles in that collection. David (Montezuma), it isn't the comments on the vehicles per se that is objectionable, it's the assumption of the seller's intent to defraud criminally. Most people are just doing what they can to maximize their profit. Not all are intentionally being deceitful. 2¢ E

Just a WAG, would a Deep Wall Socket of the right size allow you to compress the spring enough that you could then shove the clip (I'm envisioning a "C" style clip that encircles the shaft) in to lock it in place? Again, just a WAG as I've not done or seen what you are referring to. FWIW E