EScanlon

Austen's point is spot on. First things first....EVALUATE the car. You can't do that with all that grease, grime and dirt. Get a pressure washer and blast off most of that gunk, then using a carb or engine cleaner shoot all that grease, let it sit and then pressure wash it again. Yes, it will make a mess on the driveway, so it might be a good idea to put a tarp down, but as the car stands now, all you know for sure is that you have a very dirty underside. The actual condition underneath that grime may be as Carl pointed out. The white powder residue looks just like Brine or Salt residue. Washing it off is critical. If you want, stay away from the more fragile Rubber or Plastic pieces, but they still need washing and cleaning. Do the lower portions of the engine bay as well. You're going to do it eventually so doing it now is just a stitch in time. FWIW E

Marty: As far as using a Choke Lever for the Hand throttle, I erred there may be a problem with the pull angle on the cable. If you can correct for that, it would work. Take a look at the middle pic of post #4 (yours), and at the first pic in James' (240Znz). Look closely at the lineup between the lever slot and the centerline of the cable sheath. (Interestingly both of them have the Hand Throttle on the right, even though James' would presumably be for a RHD car.) You'll note that there is a distinct off-set to the cable centerline and the lever. In my haste to post, I neglected to point this out. Unfortunately you can't invert the choke lever either unless you were willing to have it act completely in reverse of the way it acts now, that is, you push it forward to actuate the Hand Throttle....talk about making it even MORE dangerous than it already is! The Hand Throttle only pulls on the Accelerator Pedal, and that friction fit does help to hold it in place, but it isn't overworked as you mentioned. E

Filipe: Are you saying you do NOT have a Choke Lever Bracket at all? E

Remove the Dash, - remove instruments, open them up and paint the insides of the cases with a bright white paint (Polar White). - check the condition of the cowl drain tubes. - attach tar-mat insulation to the underside of the cowl bucket and the firewall. - wash out all the defroster tubes, fresh air tubes going to the eyeball vents. - clean out the fresh air vents, use a clothes dryer long cable brush to clean from the front of the car all the way out the vent. - inspect, lube, re-gasket if necessary the fresh air vent valves. Remove the Heater Plenum - Open it up, remove the heater core, get it checked for leaks. - clean, paint and refurbish all the soft sponge seals on all the doors / flaps - check the condition of the blower motor and it's squirrel cage - remove and replace the fresh air vent assembly from below the cowl - check the condition of the fresh air vent ductwork - don't forget to use clean plumber's putty when replacing the fresh air valve back. - wash the triangular/square tubing connector to the heater. - re-lube and check for smooth operation of all heater control cables - check condition of short hose from heater core to valve and also the other heater hoses Seal off all the round holes in the rocker panel inner wall after making sure there is no rust hiding in the rocker Seal off the holes in the rear quarter inner panel after shooting POR inside the fender Seal off the space around the rear struts Theres a bunch more items, these are just off the top of my head. HTH E

Get the Floorboards first, then the A/C, then the Carpet. That way you won't be removing prior work. On another note, you might want to look up the Honda Blower upgrade, especially being in AZ and adding A/C. Also look into putting some form of Dynamat, Brown Bread or simple Q-Pads on the underside of the cowl and the firewall. All of those will help keep heat out of the passenger compartment. Check your cowl drain tubes also!! As far as the instruments, the only ones you HAVE to have connected, are the Tach, and the Ammeter. The rest, just make sure that you insulate any connectors and you should be fine. If you'll be running the car at all, you must also connect the Hazard and the T/S switch in order to have Brake lamps. Ignition Switch is obvious. The rest, Fuel, Oil, Clock and Speedo (only need to cap the cable) aren't essential to operate the vehicle. HTH E

Filipe: Chris' (26th-Z) second picture shows the cable hold bracket that I, incorrectly, referred to as being part of the dash frame. My car being an Automatic did NOT come originally with the Hand Throttle, however, I added it to mine and simply clamped the cable housing to the dash frame. That may be why my memory failed me. Secondly, if you look at the first picture Marty posted, you'll see that the original Choke cable bracket is already fitted for the Hand Throttle. You can either use the shorter length lever or a Choke lever but on the right hand side pivot. The second shows the differences in the travel allowed to the Hand Throttle vs the Choke. FWIW E

Not sure what you would have to do. It isn't because of the model of the tach, your 72 IS the "older" style, i.e. the "loop" or 4 wire tach. Rather it's because of the MSD. Check out the other posts regarding what they did. Myself I use a 280ZX E12-80 dizzy with my original 71 tach and it works fine. Sorry can't give you more help. E

Filipe: The bracket you might be referring to is nothing more than a cable clamp bracket. It attaches to the dash frame to lock the cable in place directly in line with the Accelerator Pedal Clevis (that funny looking "horn" on top of the accelerator linkage). The most critical part of the Hand Throttle is that washer visible in the last picture Marty posted. That is what allows the accelerator pedal to operate under normal foot operation, and still allow the cable from the Hand Throttle to slide through the Clevis. The washer actually snaps into the clevis. As far as length, if yours has been cut such that your cable doesn't have an end, then just have it cut to the length you need, and only leave as much cable outside the sheath as required for the travel in the lever. You could probably go to a Bicycle or motorcycle shop and get what you need to repair it. FWIW E

If you pull off the harness and connect a spare set of instruments, most critically the Ammeter and the Tach, and connect the ignition switch you can probably get away with it. But on another note, Why? Wouldn't it be easier and safer to just park it until the work is done? Just asking... E

Ahh...an MSD. That has it's own issues, do a search here using MSD Blaster and you'll find a couple of posts on it. E

Well, technically, that's not buying. Buying involves giving money in exchange for an item. So, if he has not paid, you wouldn't have shipped yet. You normally would not ship before receiving the money. So if you haven't shipped, because he doesn't pay, you report him as a NPB (Non-Paying Bidder) and e-Bay will purportedly do their thing and reimburse / credit you for the bad auction listing. You relist and hopefully sell for more, or go back and give the 2nd place guy a 2nd chance offer. But on the general theme of e-bay: Unfortunately, many sellers use their feedback as a coercive tool to ensure you (the buyer) don't post negative to them....the same way buyers do. Sadly, if a seller receives your money, ships you garbage, or ships it in such a way that you receive garbage, you the buyer are screwed. If you try to resolve and it fails and you post negative feedback...properly... you in turn may get retaliated with, by an unscrupulous seller. Part of the problem with making a "full disclosure" as a seller, is that while you can add text to your heart's content, pictures cost 15¢ EACH after the first one (those prices are as of the last time I listed something). Adding other items such as BIN, Reserve, Q&A etc, all add to the listing $. You get charged an Initial Listing Fee based on your Starting Bid, or Reserve or BIN, then pictures after the first, an extra line in the title description also costs, 10 day listings also cost, to be included in the gallery listings...costs, and when it's all done, you pay another fee based on the final value of the auction. So they nickle and dime you from beginning to end. Then you get charged to receive the money via Paypal. But as it has been mentioned, it's the best game in town. Yes, there's craig's list...but that takes careful work. Until then.... FWIW E

I watched it also and was bemused by some of the obvious plot ploys used. In the chase scenes ALL of the other cars seen are ... FoMoCo vehicles, even the truck. The only one that wasn't was a Volvo and that's FoMoCo also. Interestingly in the final chase scene, the driver's side in K.I.T.T. window gets shot out, yet it magically re-appears once the computer is turned back on. Now I understand that it's the computer programs that render the car AND the window bullet proof, but I wasn't aware of generating a pane of glass out of nothing. (The glass is seen there after the crash of the SUV into the side of the K.I.T.T..) The color scheme outside the casino was a very beautiful blue/purple color....and used as one of the leads to "Win your own K.I.T.T. Car!". Bet that color turns up as extra $ at the showroom. The female side-kick, daughter of the car's designer, while being very decisive and self-assured, becomes a twit in an emergency. She also can't shoot a machnie gun less than 3 feet away from another vehicle and hit it...ANYWHERE. In the crash at the end, the bad Sheriff gets killed, sitting behind the driver who doesn't, also the front passenger dies but the rear right passenger doesn't. The FBI agent's scene with the sleeping girl....totally irrelevant. Except that she rebuffs a stereotypical puppy-love struck fellow agent who is marmy enough to dislike anyway, so why make it plain she's a lesbian? or at least bi-sexual? Like I said, irrelevant. Several other items, but I'll let others comment. Overall, I give it a 6.5 out of 10. Watch-able, but not in the top 10. E

Post number 5 in this link has a wiring diagram that will help you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27896 But as long as the tach is connected to the wiring harness in the dash AND you haven't disconnected the wiring at the coil, the car should start. You don't mention whether the car starts but the tach doesn't work, or that the car doesn't start. If the first, check the wiring at the coil and the ballast resistor. FWIW E

The term in the U.S. of A. is B.F.H.; as in Big F"reaking" Hammer, but the use is the same. You know how you Oz types refer to a Hood as a Bonnet? Well, how do gang members in Australia refer to their home turf? Just asking... E

Not to be a "Spell Police"; but would you mind explaining just HOW you plan on getting your answer from this forum without READING? Or any other forum? And if you say you have some form of voice program that will read it for you, then wouldn't SPELLING count? Just asking... E

Some items that doesn't get mentioned enough: DRIVE the car once you have it started and running well enough to do so. If there are problems, you'll note them and can address them appropriately. If there aren't any (hopefully), then you can address anything that doesn't measure up. Remember, the technology for this car is close to 40 years old, don't expect it to be like your 350Z. I know you know that, but you'd be surprised at the number of folks who ask how could they modify it to go 200mph if only they .... Lastly, DON'T start disassembling various different areas all at once. It's generally very hard for even the most knowledgeable mechanical gurus here to discern what all you have done when they're trying to walk you through otherwise simple problems. Did I mention that you should DRIVE the car first? While my cautions may be falling on veteran ears, hopefully will help remind others out there. FWIW E

If obtaining $ from the bulletins is the object....then e-Bay or offer them up for sale. If making sure the information is preserved and available for other Z owners, and you're looking for someone that will scan them and make the files available, then either Will or myself will gladly step up to the mark. If shipping is a problem, Will may be closer to you, than I am, but I'm willing to repay you, I'll let Will speak for his own money. E

That's the "standard" hot wire method. Positive side of the battery to the coil +, quick short across the starter terminals and as long as the battery is working it should start and run. This works even with the E12-80 mod. All you are circumventing is the ignition circuitry and the car's electrical. The only problem you would have is if the fusible link is the culprit, then you won't have brake lamps or any other electrical functions. However, since the starter DOES turn over, that shows that that isn't the case. One CRITICAL note for further posts: while this is the "standard" hot-wire, let's not get into how easy it is to do it on a Z, nor how to circumvent defeat or alarm mechanisms ... Loose Lips Sink Ships! E

Brian: PERFECT complement to the thread. E

I think you may have dodged a bullet on that one. The hood is missing a chunk....how did that happen? The hatch area has surprisingly "smooth" edges at the ends where the rust is known to begin. The engine compartment has two different coats of paint, yet everywhere else the flat black primer is evident? While the one underside shown looks clean, the other side isn't shown. Rockers, front and rear fenders, no detail pictures. You did MUCH better with the other car, that one is a keeper and the costs associated with that one will be much less than with this one. FWIW E

Two things to make sure you do NOT forget: 1) Disassemble, clean and lube the Wiper Pivots. The ones that mount to the firewall and exit via the cowl openings. These are known to be one of the major problems in the Slow/Slower wiper design. 2) When you reassemble and are ready to test, do NOT mount the Wiper Arms and Blades and THEN test. The linkage to the motor can be, and often is, mounted 180° off. This results in the FIRST movement of the arms once the motor is powered, whether it be to the Park position of the first Wipe position to be directly downward and across your Cowl and Hood. You will NOT be happy with the scratch marks. The trick is to apply a bit of masking or electrical tape and make a "flag" on the pivots BEFORE you mount the cowl metal back on. Turn on the wipers then, and observe the "flag", if it FIRST rotates downward, the linkage from the arms to the motor has been mounted 180° off. Correct this by removing the linkage, swiveling (actuating) it the 180° it needs, and then re-connect. It's just a simple hex nut with washers (lock/plain). FWIW E

Time out: There's a big possibility for confusion here. The Tach Connector behind the dash wouldn't "just" come loose, it takes a healthy pull even when you ARE trying to disconnect it. But, since this is where the "giggling" was happening, it may also be a case of a disconnected wire at the ignition switch, or both. The wires that Beandip is referring to, while they do come from the tach, it is at their other end, in the engine compartment where they connect to the coil, that Gary points to. That's where the Black/White and Green/White wire are separated. Under the dash, they are part of the same connector, along with the Green and Black wires which power the Tach. 2¢ E

But be sure to know the limitations on Hagerty and other insurance companies. While some require an attached garage to your home, others simply require limited access. Some will allow storage at a friend's garage or U-Store-It place and others will specifically disallow it. Some will require an appraisal for value and others will accept your stated value. Some have no mileage or use limitations, others have those and Collector Vehicle plate limitations. Most will also require that you have regular insurance coverage on your other vehicles before they'll grant you a separate policy on your collector car. Don't just "listen" to what the salesperson says, READ the policy and it's inclusions and exclusions. There are too many cases of "Selective Listening" and "I thought I understood what they meant, although that's not what they said." that afterwards will bite your behind. FWIW E

http://zhome.com/History/240Accessory.htm That's the direct link. E

Will, thank you for your thoughts. Carl, although you may think this is not the case, I truly DO agree with what you have said many times: And I have even said the same thing myself. In fact, that's how I bought my car, with a signature loan. I chose to do further work on my car to bring it to a higher level of "refresh" than what it was. But I readily inform people where my work begins and where it ends. I can also understand where our difference of opinion comes from my statement of: I'm not referring to the type of individual as Doug professes to be, nor to the person he refers to in his opening paragraph. Nor does it refer to Mull as Moonpup has pointed out. I'm referring to the guy who at a local car show, who, after winning "Best ..." or "Yst Place XXX" is brought up to the microphone or podium and he starts expounding on the long road to it's current state "Paint job took 7 weeks, bodywork took another 10, before that it was a basket case and it took 200 days just to find the parts to mechanically overhaul it and another 90 to finally put it all together." Then he gets asked and how long did you acquire the car, "A month ago." Do you see the type to whom I refer to? And they ARE out there. I'm not the only one here who has talked to these individuals hoping to get them to share a bit of information on how they did something, or WHERE they had something done or found a part to buy...only to be told that they didn't know as they had only "just" bought the car. Yet, they had been expounding the trials and tribulations they had suffered in geting it done. Restoration by proxy is fine...as long as you acknowledge the proxy. But presuming to deserve the credit for craftmanship labor is heinous. Whether your involvement with your car is in sourcing parts, identifying the work to be done, handing tools to the guy who is actually doing the work or simply taking it to the mechanic, acknowledge your involvement to the degree that you ARE involved. But the key point is .... GET INVOLVED! A check writer just signs a check and assumes the credit for all the work done. What's worse they reserve the right to criticize other people's work based on what they bought. Sorry, in my eyes, either "Push, Pull or Get the Hell Out of the Way!", but don't presume to know or have experienced something by having written a check. If you do write a check and your involvement from there is simply to keep it maintained, and that's what you profess to, then that's understandable. I don't delve into tuning my carbs, yet my engine runs well and strong. Same thing with a lot of the mechanical work. Not that I CANNOT, but that I chose NOT TO. I've stated that here many times, and what I've gleaned in knowledge has been due to other members of the forum. I won't try to explain cold valve adjustment, but I know it must be done. Same with the Spindle Pin Puller making the job easier, yet I haven't done or used it. That's what I meant by a different light. E