EScanlon

They may have NOT been new. The "gasket" we're referring to is more of a weatherstrip rubber surround around the hinge points of the handle. Not a flat compressible piece of rubber or material that would go between the handle base and the door sheet metal. The rubber "boots" just surround the hinge tabs. Hope that helps clarify it. E

Once you look at the pics you realize it's NOT an SX. E

DITTO! Aluminum scars too readily, heck Marine Clean (one of the prep steps for POR) will readily etch aluminum and render a prior polish unsatisfactory, and that's just a degreasing soap. Then again, it is really rare to find aluminum so badly corroded that it needs blasting, and if you DO find it, it's usually too far gone to try to salvage. FWIW E

Carl; "Me thinks the lady doth protest too much." I can understand your umbrage at what I wrote. But then again, you understood our point of view when the likes of McKrack pontificated their point of view to the rest of us. Would you equate McKrack's efforts to the rest of ours? That places you directly on the fence between those who can simply write a check, and those who must ponder, weigh, and debate each and every expenditure in the process of working on their car. While there are items that I've not hesitated to have them done by a profesional or to purchase outright, there are far more things that I've done myself and refurbished rather than replace due to the $ involved. To the individual with disposeable income, such deliberation is unheard of. Then again, I've been the one to purchase THEIR discards. So it all works out. But, when I find myself at a car show, and I run into one of those individuals discussing their restoration....can you understand my disdain? Then again, there ARE individuals with both the ability to work on AND the money to have it worked on. They can choose what and if they wish to expend their energy on. Some of these individuals can be the best sources of information, knowledge and experience. I cannot say I've never met a jacka$$ amongst these owners, but it's rare to find one here than amongst those that strictly pay for things and still insist on taking the credit for having done the work....when they've simply bought others efforts. However, when it comes to coming over to your place and pitching in and helping you effect the same work on your car...I'll take the guy I'm referring to. He's willing to go to the boneyard with or without you, and if he should find a piece there when he's alone that you might need, he'll either buy it or call you and ask if you want it. He'll probably show up and help you install it, or take it home, clean it and then get it to you. He knows that you're trying to get your car on the road...without mortgaging your house. He'll help you refurbish, repair, modify and put items back in use .... that the check writer will simply replace, without a second thought. When the job is done, he'll share the memories of your restoration with you. He'll tell others about the work you did. He's like a wing-man. I've yet to see a check writer have a wing-man. Don't misunderstand me, I don't hold a grudge for those that can afford to simply write a check. Nor do I think their enjoyment is any less or more than mine. It's different. One man's tea is another's dirty water, and another's poor substitute for coffee. But the last paragraph in your post speaks volumes. Underlined emphasis mine.You are fortunate in that you CAN write that check or send your car out for restoration. So I can understand why you feel there is no need for us to do it ourselves. For the rest of us who are NOT able to just pay for the restoration or to purchase a restored car, we find we MUST do it ourselves. Unless you or someone else is willing to foot the bill for us, which I feel isn't going to happen anytime soon, we'll just have to continue to toil away. I do note that you make a definite distinction between "Restore" and "Refresh". I won't quibble with you as I agree. I also agree that it does not make financial sense to effect the Refresh or the Restore yourself when there are excellent vehicles for sale for much less than the TOTAL of the restore or refresh. However, and this is probably the crux of this, not everyone here can simply write out a check for the $20-$25k purchase price you mention. I'll venture to say, that the majority would have to consider long and hard such an expense. I'll even go so far as to say that without financing, most of us wouldn't consider making that purchase. And there lies your demarcation line. Those who are fortunate enough can and will ... simply write a check. The rest of us, will have to buy cheap, expend hours of labor, sweat and even a bit of blood and tears, probably spend twice the amount .... but do it one small bite at a time, spread out over years. And yes, hope that at the end of the road, we can find a check writer to buy it from us....or our heirs...at 25¢ on the dollar. Then, when they are taking the time to admire the craftmanship, and enjoy a classic car and be a Z enthusiast....a lot of that craftmanship will be mine, it will have been a classic car that I helped rescue from the crusher, and they can continue the Z enthusiast legacy with MY car. I think the ad says.....PRICELESS at the end. FWIW E

Hard to say, you'll have to check out the bracket beneath the console. It might be as simple as some dirt/dust/jute that has gotten in there or ...? Normally you should be able to push it to the front edge easily, the rear edge probably not as that travel will be limited by the choke cable pull range. Once you have it out, you'll see that the little button that gets pushed by the lever is really small and so is the switch. As a result, it's getting damaged or pushed out of the way is not inconceivable. Post your finding/result. E

Yes, although they do fall off very often. E

Possibility number one: When the choke cables were adjusted to the Off setting, the choke lever was not all the way forward (Off position). As such, when you push the lever forward to remove the Choke (or shut it off), the lever cannot travel far enough forward to actuate the N/C switch that's on the front of the choke lever cable housing. Solution: Loosen the choke cables at the carburators. Slide the lever all the way forward until the light goes off, then tighten the choke cable screws at the carburator. That is the simplest and most likely scenario of what happened. Possibility number two: The N/C switch located on the front of the Choke Lever Bracket below the console has either broken, a broken screw mount that allowed it to travel forward, either of which is causing the lever to not be able to push far enough forward to toggle the switch, or, and this would be rare as the metal involved is pretty stiff, you actually bent the arm that contacts the switch. Solution: Repair/replace the switch or bend the tang on the lever. But other than breaking the switch, I don't think it would be a matter of a bent piece of metal. FWIW E

Another thought along the same lines: Anyone with enough money can buy a car...sports, classic, rare, exotic, all it takes is money. That's what the jet-set does, but then again, they don't have the time to take on a long project. To them the trip is about the destination. If that's what you're into, buy the best car that someone else has worked on. But don't expect to be seen in the same light as those that have skinned their knuckles, shed a drop or two of blood, sweat and tears, or spent weeks or months looking for that specific part... trying to bring their "baby" back onto the road. To those that have travelled this other path, it's not about the money, and while the destination has always been in mind, it's the journey there that's part of the trip. Once you're there, you're filled with memories of the journey itself and you share them with others also along their paths. Money can't buy those memories, nor the friendships, nor the satisfaction. It's not about the money, it's about the process. FWIW E

Without trying to be overly sentimental.... Fuzze: If you were to spend $30,000 on your "restoration"/"refreshing", and it took you 3 years to get it done (an average). And in those 3 years, presuming 45 weekends per year at a total of 10 hours per weekend, plus an additional 8 hours during the week (very light estimates of the time you would actually spend) you would have: [45 * (10+8)]*3] = 2430 total hours or $12.35 per hour. Then if you factor in the memories, experience and flat-out enjoyment of working with your two boys.....and it suddenly looks ....VERY INEXPENSIVE and CHEAP at THREE TIMES THE PRICE. FWIW E

Don't think it's the 2+2 as that had a small door open latch at the back IIRC. Looks a lot like the one's I recall seeing on the 260 and 280. E

Hard to guess at, but if you put your wallet on the console just before going into the stereo shop, the car sensed the $ within and decided you would be spending the money differently than you had intended. (The car has an in-the-console $ detector! ) Aside from the stereo, what other repairs, upgrades, or refurbs were you planning to do before you decided on the stereo? The car may have decided you would be doing those first. :paranoid: SBLAKE one of the members here is most familiar with the 280's and I'm sure he'll see your post and give you suggestions. Meanwhile, check for the obvious, spark at the coil and plugs, fuel, make sure the distributor is working (remove cap and observe rotor), check the distributor cap, etc. FWIW E

If it weren't for the cost of shipping to and from me, I would offer a Chrome Strip Restoration service. I've done a few of these and the results are good enough to show, unfortunately, the cost of shipping your panels to and from me is what makes it unpalateable. FWIW E

Not trying to quibble over tiny details, as you pointed out you may be using a slightly different SEM product than the one I'm referring to. I used Landau Black (Color Coat #15013) for the interior plastic pieces. I also know they have various "shades" of satin and flat black, as well as different formulations. They have a Plastic, Vinyl, and Cloth formulation (Color Coat: http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=190) as well as the Bumper Coater aerosol ( http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=205). Each of these have shades within their product family. While one will/may not exhibit texturing, another will/may. That is why I cautioned on the product used by PanamaRed. While that metallic sparkle was what he wanted, it might not be for someone else. Same with the Bumper Coater product you used, it might be perfect colorwise, but may not be agreeable for it's texture. This is why it is so important to point out these subtle differences. Not too long ago we had a long thread regarding the correct color for the tail-light finishers...and a heated debate by one member WHO WAS USING HIS COMPUTER MONITOR AS THE COLOR "SWATCH" TO MATCH TO HIS FINISHERS AND TO THE PHOTOGRAPHS HE HAD FOUND. He couldn't understand why they didn't match and was arguing the advise he was being given. FWIW E

It all depends on how much rust you have. If you DO have rust, you'd be better off using a more aggressive media than soda, or simply cut the metal out. Don't forget that Soda MUST be cleaned off the metal for proper paint adhesion (this was discussed before) AND if you don't do that you are asking for problems. Add that to the 80¢ + per lb. cost of the soda and .... ($39.99 for 50 lb. plus shipping). If you are set on doing the job yourself, why not check into Harbor Freight? They have a comparable unit (probably ALSO manufactured in China) for less money. Here's a link to a comparable unit for less money: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95014 There are other units there as well. But if you do have the money, and you want it done quickly and thoroughly, the $1k price might very well be worth it. By the time you buy the unit, the blast media - whether sand or ..., and designate the space to do the work and put up with the MESS (and it IS a mess)... $1k may be peanuts. 2¢ Enrique

While the designation of Series I and II seem to be from Nissan (Datsun) they're not, they're more our (US) labels to differentiate between the earlier versions and later versions. I believe that the labels go up to Series IV. www.zhome.com has more information on that. Here's the link to the production figures for the HLS30 model: http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm But to help you identify items, your car is a Series I if it has Vents in the Hatch and NOT on the C pillars above the rear wheels. There are more determinants, but that is the most obvious and the least changeable. Other determinants include the dash, the center console, headlight sugar scoop material, interior plastic pieces and accessories, rear hatch window glass, etc.. Rather than try to list them all here, go to the Zhome link, and remember that much of the information there is for the HL version of the S30 and not necessarily applicable to the other market models worldwide. FWIW Enrique

Excellent write up Dave. Now, what about putting them on the lower surface of the door to act as true exterior step lights? Two problems to overcome, moisture and the wire feed to them. E

Be sure to look at post #'s 8 & 9 in the referenced thread. Apparently there are flecks of silver in the Fusion paint Juan used that may be disagreeable or not what you may want in your finish. I've not used the Fusion for anything yet and as such don't know what/how/where it would work or have problems. The SEM problem, on the other hand, the only reasons I can come up with het's having texture problems with it are: 1) Either poor prep (wrong cleaning agent, wrong de-greasing agent, handling item after degreasing/cleaning) or 2) Improper paint procedure (too thick a coat, temperature too cold/hot, not shaking the can well/long enough). In my experience, SEM is more of a DYE than a PAINT, as such it takes very light and even coats as opposed to a single blast/pass. Do it properly and the finish, color and longevity are as good as factory paint results (and many plastic/vinyl pieces come painted from the factory). FWIW E

The biggest problem isn't finding a fuse or even fusible link wire, it's determining the correct rating for it. The earlier Z's (up to 7/73) had a choice of 4 part numbers none of which show rating information. After 8/73 you have a rating choice of either 0.5 or 1.25. Part numbers: 24022-E4101 Fusible Link, with Rubber Cover, listed as OP 24022-E4100 Fusible Link, LESS Rubber Cover, listed as up to 12/70 24022-E4102 Fusible Link, Less Rubber Cover, listed as 1/71 to 8/71 superseding E4100 24022-E8200 Fusible Link, Less Rubber Cover, listed as 9/71 to 8/73 superseding E4102 Note that there isn't any model info nor rating information. Then: 24161-28500 Fusible Link (0.5), listed as from 8/73 for either the 2 seater of the 2+2 24161-A0100 Fusible Link (1.25), listed as from 8/73 but no model detail. Additionally, the earlier Z's had a Datsun connector on one end and an eye-ring on the other (starter end). The Datsun connector is what connects it to the wiring harness just below the battery and by the starter. It isn't your "standard" fusible link wire which arrives with plain wire ends. (Don't forget that the gage of the wire AND it's length are both factors in determining the rating of the link.) Later models had a fusible link "box" with a cover. This is where it lies. If we can investigate the particulars, it might be possible to ascertain WHERE and WHAT to buy. FWIW E

If your car is as clean and original as you describe, then it IS worth more as an "original, un-modified" than it would be with a V8 swap or other modification...even if it had some problems that would require repairs, such as rust, paint, or replacing some parts. While the V8 transplants, and other speed modification may be valuable, they are generally only valuable to those owners who would be interested in such a modification, and as a broad general rule, most of those owners would rather effect their own changes than buy another person's modifications. Not to denigrate or in any manner, fashion or form disparage those who chose to do those changes, but they are VERY subjective. One man's "improvement" is another man's "butchering". That said, there are numerous vehicles out there that are far better suited for a V8 transplant or other speed modifications than the vehicle you describe. I myself have two, one is a 72 with a non-matching engine and a 73 with a 4-barrel carb modification. Both need work, (paint and interior) but either would be better candidates for those types of modifications. FWIW Enrique

Matching texture is always a major problem when effecting repairs on plastic pieces. The best way I've found to do it is to use another matching and unbroken piece and using plastilene or even silicone and mold release to get an impression of the texture to transfer to the repair material. I've had good luck using JB Weld, and other "soft" mix epoxies that can take the impression easily. If you use a stiff epoxy or a heat generating material (as fiberglass resin is) it is hard to imprint the pattern. If you don't have another piece, many times you can use another part of the same piece to get the surface pattern from. The repair will / may be noticeable depending on how careful you are to match the pattern. 2¢ E

SEM Landau Black gives a good rich satin black finish which corresponds very well with the rest of the plastic parts. 2¢ E

Will: SWMBO knows. Who do you think thought the stickers were too much? What you have to worry about is that she mentioned that she was going to call YOUR wife and tell her what you did with her Mix Master. Sorry bout that... E

No need to apologize, Will knows he went overboard with his mods. (Check the Georgia plate). Funny thing is, he was trying to "fix-'er-up" thinking I would be interested in it. But all those stupid stickers.....that soured the whole deal...then toss in cross country shipping or driving!!!! :stupid: E

Chad; Be sure to examine those rocker panels and rear doglegs with a fine magnifying glass. If the cancer showing on the left rocker panel is any indication, this may be the straw that could break that car's back. The front fender lowers are typical, but may be hiding trouble in the front part of the rocker panel on both sides. Remove the inner vinyl and look through to the exterior sheet metal of the rocker through the reinforcing holes. 2¢ Enrique

FYI: Red paint is usually more expensive than other colors. This may have changed over the years, but for the longest time it has applied. There are a LOT of red cars out there. Not qualifying that in any manner other than you do see a lot of red cars, it may be cause they catch your eye, prettier, etc. Green like Walter Moore's car, or the earlier Electric Lime Green better known as 112 Yellow are sharp colors and not too common, which makes them stand out for their individuality. FWIW E