EScanlon

OK, there are two possible explanations. One is that your car is a "transition" car, neither a 72 or a 73 (if it was produced late in the year) or 71/72 (if early in the year). The other, is that either the wire fell off the bulb socket and is waiting to short out on you if you should try to start the car with the parking brake on or a brake system warning sensor on. The only extreme other possibility is that you're not looking at the Brake Warning Light. In the diagrams I have for the 71, 72 and 73, the only GY wire I see near that area of the dash is connected to the Stop Lamp Switch...i.e. the Brake Switch. But that is a PAIR of wires and they end in Bayonet connectors (iirc). What's the date of manufacture of your car, and are there other wires running around loose in your dash area? E

One person's "customization" is another person's "butchering". Sound familiar? It is the very essence of CUSTOM cars. Where one person would shudder at cutting holes in the door panels to install speakers, another thinks nothing of fiberglassing huge woofers between the rear struts, or replacing the spare wheel well with a sub-woofer, or changing the carbs for "performance". Swapping out consoles to eliminate the void from the nonexistent Hand Throttle, changing Heater Control Panels for an illuminated background, shaving door handles, heck....swapping out the POINTS distributor for the ZX 12-80 electronic dizzy. All of these are customizations. Whatever CHANGES to the original vehicle AS IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY are just that...CUSTOMIZATIONS. Disagree? Check out the rules for the ZCCA Gold Medallion judging. If a change is widely ACCEPTED, then it's considered good and worthwhile. And sometimes it even gains acceptance to the point of being "ignored" in judging. However, changes that aren't met with inmediate aclaim sometimes take a bit to become accepted. It is those changes that do not follow the "within the box" guidelines that can engender new trends, new ideas and new "out of the box" changes. LED lights for the tail lights, relay harnesses for the power hungry components, seats with speakers, personalized floor mats, blinking side markers, CD changers with remotes, are all "accepted" and even common amongst some folks and seen as unnecessary by others. But belittling and denigrating the mods can be a thorny and explosive thread. Defining "tasteful" can be a very personalized and heated flame war. I can recall one other series of e-bay sales where a member here was checking the value of his car by putting it up for auction. That thread and many others have been deleted, and the carnage hasn't ended. Let's be forewarned about the possible consequences. Is the car that began this thread worth $45k? Apparently to the seller it is. I'm wondering if he realizes how much his 3% e-Bay fee will be just for listing it. Aside from that, it was seen as unique and praiseworthy at TWO of our marque's primary shows. If you'll remember that, then maybe you can understand why this individual sees it as worth that kind of money. My 2¢ E

The sequence on the video is kind of hard to discern as to 4-Way, Left Turn with and without the Parking Lamps, due to being able to see a reflection on the (?) that apparently reflects the right hand side front lamp but not the right marker lamp. The sequence appears to be: 1 - All Lights OFF 2 - 4-Way ON - Park Lamps OFF - Lamps In Sync 3 - 4-Way ON - Park Lamps ON - Lamps Alternate 4 - 4-Way OFF - Park Lamps ON - Lamps In Sync 5 - 4-Way ON - Park Lamps ON - Lamps Alternate 6 - 4-Way OFF - Park Lamps ON - Lamps In Sync 7 - All Lights OFF 8 - 4-Way ON - Park Lamps OFF - Lamps In Sync Maybe the Left Turn was actuated, but due to the reflection being in sync with the visible front lamp it's not possible to tell if you're seeing a reflection of the RIGHT or LEFT front lamp. Can you clarify, Arne? Also what does it do when the Turn Signal is actuated. Other than that it looks good, can you post the schematic? Or is this the same mod as was seen on the 510 site? E

You might also check that the parking brake switch is actually in good condition too. I've seen the wire get disconnected and / or break off at the switch and NOT make ground...and therefore no Brake Indicator. (Pretty sure you wouldn't go to the trouble of purposely setting up a brake system inbalance just to check out a warning lamp.) E

Bo; Nissanman said it, although in reverse order as far as the circuitry goes. The Green wire is powered through the fuse box when the Ignition Switch is in the RUN position. That Green wire goes directly to power the Tach and the Turn Signal Flasher (after it goes through the Hazard Switch, which powers the Hazard Flasher from a different power source that isn't slaved to the Ignition Switch). The Green wire has a connection to it, a Red / Blue (RL wire) that although it is the same color as the lighting circuit is NOT a part of that circuit. That RL wire connects to one side of the bulb and the other side of the bulb connects to a Yellow / Blue wire (YL) that can complete the circuit by either the Parking Brake Switch or the Brake System Switch in the Brake Master. I don't have the FSM for your year so I can't verify the YG wire you mention. You might look and see if one is the U.K. Wiring as the Haines calls it, or the Basic S30 wiring and the other is the later S30. However, whether it's YG or YL matters only in tracing it back through the harness. HTH E

Luke; Your response may not seem funny to you, but it is hilarious. Yes, I can understsand why you're clueless....because (and sorry for this) you appear to be. An ELECTRICAL problem (unplugged fan) would have a hard time being a LIQUID COOLANT (closed water valve) problem unless you have some very VERY serious problems at play. Now, don't take this as a flame, it isn't meant to be. That you had a problem with an electrical connection some time back and you needed to trace and re-connect the fan may be the exact moment when you inadvertently pulled on the cable that actuates the water control valve. That valve is to the right of the heater housing and just to the left of the blower motor. It is not at all farfetched to think you may have closed the valve by simply pushing down on the lever (if the cable isn't attached) and/or forced the cable off the lever by pulling/pushing on the cable sleeve. Look at the heater plenum that sits atop the transmission tunnel from the passenger footwell area. You should see a water valve to which one of the hoses coming from the engine compartment is connected to. The other hose will be connected to one of the heater core tubes sticking out of the heater box. The other heater core tube will be connected to the other end of the heater control valve. If that valve is CLOSED, you are not getting ANY water (hot OR cold) flowing through the heater core. That valve should be actuated by the cable denoted TEMP on the heater control panel. Check out the suggestions you've been given and then see if that doesn't correct the problem. Don't forget that the engine needs to be warm for the heater core to blow warm air once you get the valve open. HTH E

emphasis mine.The underlined text may be more of an indication of your problem than anything else. That valve controls how much water is allowed into the heater core. If it's inoperative, no heat will be forthcoming. One of the wires in the control panel should actuate that valve. 2¢ E

Yellazed hit it spot on. The little white spring loaded nylon block also pushes against the dove tail to keep the latch pin rotating cuff on the door pressed against the latch catch on the post of the door. Later mechanisms inverted the design and then the post of the car has the pin and the door has the catch. Here's Yellazed's pic with an arrow pointing to the white nylong block, which on most cars has yellowed due to grease and age. E

Brian...it's the lace! E

Actually, that won't FIX the problem, it will just swap it out to the rear end of the car. That may also have it's repercussions but at least it will get it away from the front end of the car where steering is critical. However, and do take note of this, if all four tires were bought/installed at the same time, there is a very good possibility that the problem will resurface when the rear tires (now front) undergo the same stress that the original front tires endured. Simply put, you may drive a mile, or a thousand before it happens again. So, you definitely want to have the tires checked at a tire shop with the knowledge and expectation to buy at least TWO if not all FOUR tires in the near future. 2¢ E

A car from SOUTHERN California to Newfoundland, Canada? Wouldn't ENGLAND be closer? J/K and curious, you're not really asking if it's worth dragging clear across the continent and well on your way to Greenland are you? It had better be a sweet deal, but for that distance, why not ask RolfSis what she wants for her car. She's a bit closer. 2Â¥ (based on exchange) E

Without the jute, your vinyl won't fit correctly. While this may seem superfluous, down by the accelerator pedal, heater and parking brake, it could be a factor. The jute was right at 1/2" to 3/4" thick, and it cushions the metal as well as sound/heat insulation. 2¢ E

So swapping the handles is out of the question? E

You might also look at Too Intense Restoration. Troy Thacker has been at this for years and I've not heard any complaints about his carpet sets. He lists all of the years as well as Cut or Loop style. http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html FWIW E

A link to an auction is ALWAYS a suggestion to buy, specifically because it IS an auction and it is time sensitive. As far as reference material, the other wheel thread that shows pictures of many wheel styles has already been linked to, so your reference does not add anything to the thread, nor will it be available in a few weeks when the listing ends and is deleted by e-Bay. As far as reading the message, why don't YOU go read the initial post and subject of the thread. She didn't ask for your thoughts on whether she might change her mind, nor for alternatives, her specific post said: emphasis mine.Maybe if you took your after lunch nap? E

The auction that tomocrack is referring to is for THREE rims and not four, plus two have curb rash AND they're for 15x7 rims. Not even a good try, and no cigar. E

e-racer didn't quote x-ray to be part of this thread. The quote you're referring to is part of his signature block. E

Or simply switch the front tires for/to the back. That might get you by for a while, since the rears aren't subjected to as much side stress as the fronts. FWIW E

Beandip has one also, but I don't recall which side. Give him a PM and see what he has and wants for it, although Will would be closer. E

I had this exact situation, and it was exactly that, belt separation. A new set of tires cured that problem. E

First; smack that girl. Second, let her know that replacement handles aren't cheap. Tell her she can expect a bill. (How strong was this girl anyhow?) Third, you might be able to swap out the left for the right and vice versa. However, it WILL involve removing the door panels. You may not need to remove window depending on your hand size. FWIW E

Two items: First is that your alternator isn't designed to CHARGE your battery, just to maintain the charge and re-charge it from the occasional start and other day-to-day discharges. When you discharge your battery as you did, you need to have it charged. That's why you'll see those battery chargers that you plug into the wall for sale. What the lady at the parts store was referring to, more than likely, was that it was not taking a charge QUICKLY, and that's what failed their benchmark. This does NOT say that it IS OK, but that her quick evaluation may not have been definitive. See if a buddy has a battery charger and charge the battery overnight, that may get you to your next paycheck. There ARE solutions available to flush your cooling system, but as with all self-prescribed medicine (whether yours or the car's), you "Takes your chances!". Two: There is a possibility that if the radiator is clogged with something, that vinegar ~may~ clear it up, but the vinegar ~may~ wreak havoc on your aluminum head or the radiator or the RTV that the guy used to seal something, or..... Do you see the problem? Go to the store, find the radiator flush solution section and read the precautions (that's why they're put on the bottle) and find out if that product is OK with aluminum. Some products are NOT, while others require a lengthy preparation process, others a lengthy and laborious amount of work..... In short, you may end up spending far, far more for the "band-aid" than simply contacting a radiator shop and asking them how much to do your radiator. But first, try the thermostat replacement. THEN do the hoses if they're still required. You ~may~ be able to save a buck or two and NOT need the radiator flush, or maybe the radiator flush will save you the problem of the hoses. Remember, you don't need to totally replace everything all at the same time. It may very well be that with a few $ strategically spent, you keep it running until you have the money. FWIW E

In discussing this with a fellow member (Beandip) he pointed out that the thermostat is actually also helpful in keeping the water IN the radiator long enough to actually effect some cooling on it. Without the thermostat, there can actually be TOO much flow and the water not get ANY cooling. The collapsed radiator hose can be because of age of the hose and the rubber has become soft or due to the excessive heat. Try the thermostat, but go with the 160 rather than the 180. 2¢ E

Maxwell; Sorry, your equation does not compute. Stephen hit it on the head, the engine will find the temperature at which it is being cooled to. The thermostat is there to allow the coolant to get hot FASTER when you first start the engine. It blocks the flow to the radiator UNTIL a given temperature is reached, hence the temperature rating of the thermostat. In colder climates you use a higher temp thermostat to allow the engine to heat up MORE before it begins to be cooled by the cooling system. In warmer climates, where the possibility of overheating exists, you use a LOWER temperature thermostat to allow the cooling system to begin cooling ahead of the higher temperatures. If you remove the thermostat, and hence have no temp-controlled blockage, then the engine will continue to heat until it reaches that temperature that the cooling system (water pump and radiator) CAN achieve. If the cooling system is faulty, then there is NO reduction (cooling) in the temperature that the motor achieves. This is what is happening to your car. Since the radiator hose is collapsing, that is a positive indication that your water pump IS functioning. That your lower hose is collapsing however, says that water isn't flowing THROUGH the radiator fast enough. I'm willing to bet that you have a clogged radiator. Your equation as it stands is: High flow MINUS (Poor cooling+Collapsing hose) EQUALS Ultra High Temperature But address problems ONE at a time, you're doing various things which can lead you to get several of them working against each other. It's ok to be enthusiastic, but you might find yourself with a hard to diagnose and correct problem with so many "fixes" going on all at the same time. FWIW E

There's also a bit of rubber wrapped around the latch mechanism itself. Without this piece of rubber, the door latch ends up being metal against metal. Many times this will fall off and that 3/32" worth of space will allow the door to rattle with every vibration of the car. Check the latch, specifically the part on the door that rotates when it strikes the catch on the door frame. If it's bare metal, then the rubber has fallen off. The simple fix is to buy a new lock mechanism. However, that can be spendy and time consuming to find. The inexpensive fix is to afix a new piece of rubber to that latch. It can be done, but it takes a bit of experimentation. HTH E