EScanlon

Hopefully I'm not stepping on Capt. Obvious's setup, but I think the reason for NOT showing the tenths digit on the LOWER odometer readout, is because the UPPER TRIP odometer readout has the tenths as part of it's 4 digits. 2¢ E

I found the blurring problem on the one I edited, for which I'm glad Wayne sent a new file. But in opening the new file, Capt. is correct, the headings and rows on the comb switch as well as many of the labels for the components are now over-bolded and now blurred. E

And if you cannot find that T-fitting at NAPA or any of your other normal car part sources, check Ace / True Value hardward stores. They will often have these small fittings for use in Plumbing and will have them in their "specialty" parts bins. Another place to check is your local Aquarium supply, (Petsmart, Petco, Your local independent) as these get used to distribute air to the different stones. If you find one of the older style, you might even find them in brass. FWIW E

Here is the updated file from Wayne. File is much smaller than the previous edit I had posted. Thanks Wayne! E G77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

See if this helps: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread15175.html It's from a while back, but it should work for you. E

Mike; A real simple explanation of the Switch Boxes that you see in the schematics is tricky but here goes. Look at the series of boxes like you would an Excel Spreadsheet. The wires on the harness connect to the left side of the box. Each of the wires gets it's own row. Each column depicts a switch position, i.e. when the switch is in that position which wires are connected to what wires. That's when you follow the dots (or circles) and the lines to whatever other dots are on the same line. No dot, the wire isn't in play at that switch position, whether the line goes through the box or not. Now to translate that into "flow", you can get all esoteric or just think of the electrickery juice as flowing from the battery through the wires and then to ground. There is a "positive" and a "negative" side of the circuit, but I'll let others chime in. So, in the example above, the battery sends the electrickery through the alternator, to the fuse box (but not through a fuse), to the H/L switch which when put into the second position (actuating the headlights) then returns it to the fuse box where it gets split into Left and Right circuits as it goes THROUGH the fuse box gaining a fuse for each of the L/R sides. Once through the fuse box, it goes to the H/L themselves and returns to the Dimmer Switch where it finally gets connected to ground. Now I hope that all made sense. I didn't add the wire colors, but now that you have the description you should be able to add the colors. HTH E

Ahh... now we're getting someplace. That Red/White wire is the "return" leg of the high beam circuit coming back from the headlights for the dimmer switch to in turn direct to ground. The Low beam "returns" on the Red/Black wire. Check what you have connected to the Hi/Lo beam switch and see if the R/W wire isn't attached. E

I would recommend you wait before you start making new connections even if they are to "replace" missing ones. You may inadvertenly complicate the circuits and possibly cause another catastrophic failure later. Many times the solution to this type of problem may be as simple as reviewing all the connections; correcting obvious mistakes, and simply cleaning both grounds and connections. Think of it this way, the car DID have operating headlights at some point, and from what you're posting this is a new problem and not a result of changes you've made to the car. On the other hand, if the headlight outage IS as a result of some other modification recently (new radio, changed the combination switch, dropped the steering wheel and column and therefore disconnected it...) then THAT is where you want to start, by re-examining what you LAST did to the car. FWIW E

Chris; Could I trouble you to do a small write-up "explanation" of what you are doing? I'm interested in knowing more as there are several buckets of parts that could possibly be made serviceable with what you're doing... but I don't know how or how long or money.... you get the drift? Thanks in advance if you can do it. E

The black wire is CONNECTED to the W/R ??? That must be a PO re-wire of some sort. Datsun used Black exclusively for the ground circuit. That is, you see a black wire and you know it connects to ground. I'd double check that. E

I agree they do show some age, but in my experience, it takes a LOT before the interior of the switch gets bad enough to stop the juice from flowing. You usually get intermittent and dim long before total outage. E

Looking at your pic again, you might want to investigate that lone Black wire right below the W/R wire with no end. That may be the ground for the whole Comb Sw. Assy. which is required for the Headlight Circuit. E

I'll differ on opening up the switch first. Lots more to go wrong with that approach. Check the wiring first before you start disassembly, oftentimes that's where the problem will be found. E

What schematic are you working with? The one I have shows a W/R wire to each the Turn Signal AND the Headlight circuits. In fact, the W/R wire is the direct connection to the Alternator and Fuse Box. Check the connections at the combination switch as it seems one is crossed. FWIW E

While it may cost a penny or two, with this car being a California car, it might be worth it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47348.html Contact the poster of the other thread and see if you can work out a deal. E

Well, as I see it, there's good news and even better news. The good news... you're in school for auto-body: you'll definitely have a LOT to work with and learn from this car. The better news... by the time you're done, you'll have a PhD in Auto Body.... that whole front end needs some serious work, without beginning on the floor pans, and the rocker panels and the rear valance... In other words, with enough time and money it can be salvaged but, in all honesty, you may be better off getting a better frame car and transplanting your good running gear and engine into it. FWIW E

Advance Mechanism Roller Bearings INSIDE the distributor and below the points plate. When you suck on the Advance Diaphragm tube, look at the points plate and note the travel action. Is it smooth in and out with little or no hesitation? Does it take a small amount of vacuum to actuate? When you release it does it spring back or just sit there? Any of these answered as NO point to that plate. There are some ball bearings imbeded in the plastic "feet" below the plate. When they get coroded they can stick in the plastic and not roll. They can also break out of the plastic cup and just be rolling around in the bottom part of the dizzy. Before you start replacing other items, check this as it's the easiest of them all. FWIW E

If memory serves, that Inhibitor Switch IS the Safety Interlock you need. However, if your car was not originally an automatic vehicle, your wiring harness will NOT have that included in it. Additionaly, I believe the inhibitor switch is located WITHIN the automatic transmission housing as it also incorporates a check on the reverse lamp. Are you sure that your transmission doesn't have a safety interlock already in it? The reverse lamp is on a Red/Black and Red pair of wires, other color wires coming out of the transmission COULD be what you are looking to install. FWIW E

Wade: EXCELLENT!! While it does take a bit of careful reading, and consideration, it is an excellent primer on getting the "juice" flowing. Thanks for the good descriptions. E

Wayne, I don't think we need new files. I jumped on it to get it updated, but I guess I should have waited for you to post it (my goof). I found the PDF from the links given above (in PDF) and I edited the copy I had. Check it out and tell me if it didn't convert back and forth properly (it did increase in size). But you may want to post the photoshop file, or at least, if you would send that to me (shoot me a PM for my e-mail if you don't already have it.) E

Thanks to Captain Obvious, a couple of errors in the Fuse Box drawing in this diagram have been corrected. Here is the corrected 77 wiring diagram, and I'll also be merging the thread discussing the errors to this one. E Scanlon Moderator F77ZCAR-WIRING[Edited].pdf

Excellent sleuthing!! You get one Sherlock Holmes autographed miniature magnifiying glass which hopefully will help with whatever eye-strain you developed finding that. I've been working on colorizing many of the early Z and Roadster diagrams, and can attest to the fact that even from Nissan there were "oopses" and omissions. I've found Relays that supposedly work on 3 wires, others that don't have an actuating circuit and yet, like the above oversight but this time in the OEM drawing, multiple fuses from the same power source going to the same power output wire, even wires that end in the middle of the schematic with no explanation (and as yet no discernable use). I'll see if I can get it updated with what you've found. E Edit: I succeded in editing the file and I've attached it here. F77ZCAR-WIRING[Edited].pdf

Post the mistakes so it can be appended to the proper thread. It would also help if you could give the thread and/or the file name you originally downloaded from. This is in case the original poster isn't around and / or we can't edit the original thread. Without changing the original file, the original -- and in error--- schematic will still be available. E

El cheapo shower curtain from the dollar store and duct tape. It's removeable and reuseable. FWIW E

Have you tried just actuating the Hazard Switch? What happens then? Do the front work and not the back? Many times this will fix your problem. And yes there are two flashers in the car, one for the turn signals and one for the hazard circuit. As far as removing the Hazard Switch, which one do you have, the Toggle Switch or the Push/Pull Green Knob? The Toggle has the obvious ring that you remove with a small spanner wrench, or carefully using a e-clamp plier and just unscrew. The Toggle you push in and turn the knob about 1/8 of a turn or so, and the knob will then come off the stalk. FWIW E