EScanlon

I don't know why they would change the location of the rollers from the 240 to the 260 as there are few differences between the two door styles (aside from interior trim), but the microfiche I have shows the SAME part number pairs for both vehicles. See fiches 6/8 G16 120-3 Item 26 and 7/8 G8 142-2 igtems 14 & 15. E

I couldn't find any info on it being superseded, but then again, although the CD microfiche does list the 77/8 model in the model listing, the parts listing only says "From Aug 73". Does anyone else have a parts breakdown for the 77? What about a more recent version of the FAST? FWIW E

Probably more of a mis-aligned drawing where the perspective line is easy to misconstrue. I've attached a snapshot of the respective sheet of the club's CD with the locations annotated. While the vehicles arrived from the factory with only ONE, there is provision on the door for TWO. Many users have found that having both rollers greatly reduces window rattle when the window is only partly lowered. The rollers ARE sided. HTH E

What I recall from the discussions on the Roadster's gauges is that they require a pulsedd voltage at 8v. That explanation there will probably make more sense to Steve and PSDenno than me, but if I understood it properly, it was reduced voltage (8v) at intervals that allows the gauges (fuel and temp) to check the status of their sensors and therefore "read" the position required. That is, if it had 12v continuously, it would either max out the gauge (like when we short the lead to see if the gauge is working) or simply not register at all. Having had a VR go wanky in my Roadster, I can tell you that both gauges will give you all sorts of weird and inaccurate readings... meaning, totally useless. With that thought in mind, is where I make the possible connection to the contacts in the Z's gauges. I'll send both those guys a PM and ask them to look at this and offer their 2¢ E

I think this is where we need folks like SteveJ and PSDenno (and I may have those names completely wrong) but I'm referring to those guys who are actually working in Engineering fields and preferably Electrical Engineering (or at least a good knowledge of electrickery). With the knowledge I've gained from the Roadster, I'm wondering if that contact isn't an attempt at replacing the Voltage Regulator (not the one in the engine bay) that the earlier vehicles required for the Fuel and Temp gauges. Thoughts? E

And I must tender an apology to you as well. I "A...ssumed" that you had already checked the light bulb sockets for schmutz. It just goes to show that you should always start at the SIMPLEST method and work your way out. Glad you found the problem and had it resolved. I don't know whether Dave can repair or replace the switch, but it's worth a try. Good luck E

I'm going to have to dig into the harness in the garage which might take me a bit. The R/W wire is pretty unique as it only pertains to the High Beam circuit. The only other extension of that wire in the schematic goes to the Speedometer's High Beam Indicator Lamp. E

1) You mention that it kills the Flasher fuse (which incidentally covers several of the gauges as well. 2) you have turn signals on one side only This points to a problem (short) inside the switch itself and possibly a mis-connection in the steering column, which your "puff of smoke" doesn't make me feel too good about it. That is a sure indication of a short or a bad connection (things plugged into the wrong circuit that in turn cause a short). Remove the switch and carefully unbend the tangs holding the contacts in place. When you remove the contact board, be careful as there are a couple of small springs inside that toggle a pair of see-saw contacts. Check the condition and placement of all. Clean off any schmutz from the contact surfaces and re-assemble. Then check where the smoke escaped from. FYI, the Turn, Stop, Hazards all get routed through BOTH the T/S and Haz. Switches, and as you've noted there ARE two flasher units involved. As to why you would have had a problem replacing one of them... hard to guess at. FWIW E

It's your Hazard Switch that needs refurbishing. E

Hopefully I'm not stepping on Capt. Obvious's setup, but I think the reason for NOT showing the tenths digit on the LOWER odometer readout, is because the UPPER TRIP odometer readout has the tenths as part of it's 4 digits. 2¢ E

I found the blurring problem on the one I edited, for which I'm glad Wayne sent a new file. But in opening the new file, Capt. is correct, the headings and rows on the comb switch as well as many of the labels for the components are now over-bolded and now blurred. E

And if you cannot find that T-fitting at NAPA or any of your other normal car part sources, check Ace / True Value hardward stores. They will often have these small fittings for use in Plumbing and will have them in their "specialty" parts bins. Another place to check is your local Aquarium supply, (Petsmart, Petco, Your local independent) as these get used to distribute air to the different stones. If you find one of the older style, you might even find them in brass. FWIW E

Here is the updated file from Wayne. File is much smaller than the previous edit I had posted. Thanks Wayne! E G77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

See if this helps: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread15175.html It's from a while back, but it should work for you. E

Mike; A real simple explanation of the Switch Boxes that you see in the schematics is tricky but here goes. Look at the series of boxes like you would an Excel Spreadsheet. The wires on the harness connect to the left side of the box. Each of the wires gets it's own row. Each column depicts a switch position, i.e. when the switch is in that position which wires are connected to what wires. That's when you follow the dots (or circles) and the lines to whatever other dots are on the same line. No dot, the wire isn't in play at that switch position, whether the line goes through the box or not. Now to translate that into "flow", you can get all esoteric or just think of the electrickery juice as flowing from the battery through the wires and then to ground. There is a "positive" and a "negative" side of the circuit, but I'll let others chime in. So, in the example above, the battery sends the electrickery through the alternator, to the fuse box (but not through a fuse), to the H/L switch which when put into the second position (actuating the headlights) then returns it to the fuse box where it gets split into Left and Right circuits as it goes THROUGH the fuse box gaining a fuse for each of the L/R sides. Once through the fuse box, it goes to the H/L themselves and returns to the Dimmer Switch where it finally gets connected to ground. Now I hope that all made sense. I didn't add the wire colors, but now that you have the description you should be able to add the colors. HTH E

Ahh... now we're getting someplace. That Red/White wire is the "return" leg of the high beam circuit coming back from the headlights for the dimmer switch to in turn direct to ground. The Low beam "returns" on the Red/Black wire. Check what you have connected to the Hi/Lo beam switch and see if the R/W wire isn't attached. E

I would recommend you wait before you start making new connections even if they are to "replace" missing ones. You may inadvertenly complicate the circuits and possibly cause another catastrophic failure later. Many times the solution to this type of problem may be as simple as reviewing all the connections; correcting obvious mistakes, and simply cleaning both grounds and connections. Think of it this way, the car DID have operating headlights at some point, and from what you're posting this is a new problem and not a result of changes you've made to the car. On the other hand, if the headlight outage IS as a result of some other modification recently (new radio, changed the combination switch, dropped the steering wheel and column and therefore disconnected it...) then THAT is where you want to start, by re-examining what you LAST did to the car. FWIW E

Chris; Could I trouble you to do a small write-up "explanation" of what you are doing? I'm interested in knowing more as there are several buckets of parts that could possibly be made serviceable with what you're doing... but I don't know how or how long or money.... you get the drift? Thanks in advance if you can do it. E

The black wire is CONNECTED to the W/R ??? That must be a PO re-wire of some sort. Datsun used Black exclusively for the ground circuit. That is, you see a black wire and you know it connects to ground. I'd double check that. E

I agree they do show some age, but in my experience, it takes a LOT before the interior of the switch gets bad enough to stop the juice from flowing. You usually get intermittent and dim long before total outage. E

Looking at your pic again, you might want to investigate that lone Black wire right below the W/R wire with no end. That may be the ground for the whole Comb Sw. Assy. which is required for the Headlight Circuit. E

I'll differ on opening up the switch first. Lots more to go wrong with that approach. Check the wiring first before you start disassembly, oftentimes that's where the problem will be found. E

What schematic are you working with? The one I have shows a W/R wire to each the Turn Signal AND the Headlight circuits. In fact, the W/R wire is the direct connection to the Alternator and Fuse Box. Check the connections at the combination switch as it seems one is crossed. FWIW E

While it may cost a penny or two, with this car being a California car, it might be worth it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47348.html Contact the poster of the other thread and see if you can work out a deal. E

Well, as I see it, there's good news and even better news. The good news... you're in school for auto-body: you'll definitely have a LOT to work with and learn from this car. The better news... by the time you're done, you'll have a PhD in Auto Body.... that whole front end needs some serious work, without beginning on the floor pans, and the rocker panels and the rear valance... In other words, with enough time and money it can be salvaged but, in all honesty, you may be better off getting a better frame car and transplanting your good running gear and engine into it. FWIW E