EScanlon

Chuck: That wasn't my intent at all. There are several relays on the kick panel, and depending on the year of car they vary as to type and location. I've myself been bitten by that fact alone. This is sometimes half the fun in Z-Car Carchaelogy. Case in point, I have a separate Intermittent Relay Switch for the Pre-73 vehicles which houses the relay within the epoxy box it's contained in. Also powering the wiper motor can be a challenge by itself. It takes more than a pair of wires to get it to work properly, and depending on whether it's intermittent or not..... For those who may wonder what I mean by more than 2 wires to power the motor, best as I've been able to decipher the schematic, the Blue/Red wire feeds 12v+, and needs to ground through the Blue/White AND EITHER the Blue or the Blue/Yellow, and this is for the non-intermittent motor. I don't currently have my bench set up to test this, but as soon as I do I'll post a better explanation. E

Mike: Glad you got it working. For those who might read this thread later, the reason for asking about the intermittent versus non-intermittent wipers is that the relay that controls the wipe cycle is usually mounted ON the motor itself and not on the kick panel and as a result causes people to confuse the accessory relay with it. Mike, there are also a couple of posts regarding how to make the wipers function better, do a search and you'll find tons of information. Enrique

The correction to your initial sentence, is to highlight something. This might NOT be Rehab for ALCOHOL, but it is defiitely THERAPY for Z-Aholics. (I'd use the term Z-therapy, but that's a sponsor of the site and although what they do is therapy in a way, it's more of a rehabilitation.) That being said, you show up and ask our OPINION? Heck, yes. Save the Z. Dump the Lexus and use the funds to repair the Z. Or give it to the Missus and let her take it to the dealer for them to work on. And as far as a "perfect dash" if it really is a perfect dash, for $300 you simply can't go wrong. I bought a PARTS CAR for $350, and lucked out with a perfect dash...as far as I'm concerned, the rest of the parts on the car...windshield, side glass, rear glass, engine, tranny, etc etc are all icing on the cake....even though that is what I bought the car for. You mention ONE hole There might be others in weird little places. Do a search using the word RUST and you'll find tons of information as to where you have to look for it. In a simple nutshell....everywhere on the car that is below the bottom of the doors; from front to back of the car, the battery tray, and the hatch opening. Those are all the known trouble spots. To turn a car into the picture you posted takes 5 things. Money, Patience, Stubborness, Hard work, and More Money. Some people will add Lots More Money, and Tons of Perseverance, as well as a VERY Understanding Missus to the mix. Does that answer your question? Another Z-aholic Enrique

You inserted a Blank Tape? Data CD instead of Music CD? Picture DVD instead of CD? Volume turned down to Zero? The DX/Local switch has been changed and there are no local stations? AM band has no stations in that area? Antenna has been disconnected? Radio lighting on a separate circuit than power feed? Burnt Power Fuse? You're tuned into the National Bereavement Radio channel and all they broadcast are minutes of silence? Fader control set to all Rear speaker and there are no Rear speakers? (or vice versa) Otherwise, I question that the radio is "working fine". 2¢ E

There is an often over-looked and common problem to the Z's ignition system that will also produce many of the same symptoms you've described. The Vacuum Advance Slide Plate under the main plate of your distributor, is simply two sheets separated by ball bearings held in plastic holders. Over time the plastic ages, gets brittle, and the ball bearings fall out and the vacuum advance will not operate smoothly. Sometimes the vacuum is enough to shift the plate, and then with vibration will return or not...all depending on the vaguaries of chance. Simple enough to test for: Remove the distributor cap, and disconnect the vacuum hose at the intake manifold or simply connect another hose to the vacuum port on the distributor. As you apply vacuum (whether with a pump or simply by sucking on it) you should see the point plate move AND return smoothly. If it does not, or if by peering past the point plate you see little ball bearings rolling around, you need another slide plate. 2¢ E

Ed is spot on except for one thing. The stainless trim will not survive being inserted into the rubber gasket without either cutting or chaffing the rubber or worse yet, bending the metal. It does take some experience and lots of tedious patient care to do it right. The easiest and fastest way to replace the windshield or hatch gasket is to mount the rubber gasket on the glass, then while the glass/rubber assembly is still out of the car, insert the metal. Or metal first then onto the glass. The CORNERS are the last item to be inserted, and with care these can usually be done AFTER the glass is in place. There are several tricks to installing the windshield glass, and some of them depend on whether you have the dash out or not. Personally, I'd remove the dash just to make the windshield installation easier, but that's my preference. I presume that if you don't remove the dash, then you would have to insert the metal trim afterwards as Ed suggested, but you do need a special tool that spreads the rubber ahead of the insertion point of the metal trim. Since I've always mounted a windshield from inside and with the dash out....and that was years ago, I don't know if the same technique would work for doing it from the outside. The last hatch glass I did, the metal trim was inserted first, then onto the glass, then onto the car. You might check with a local glass shop, and for a few $ they might do the work for you. Better yet, get a new windshield and have them install it and you'd have a guarantee as well. Just my 2¢ E

Ok guys, check WHERE the posts are coming from..... E

It looks as though someone took a toggle switch from the 67.5 older Roadsters and put it in there. The shape, style is the same. I say that because the size and shape of the paddle isn't identical to the actual Hazard Switch visible below it. Does it have any engraving / embossing to denote what it is? That IS the location for the Fog Lamp switch in the early Series I cars, as later the Cigar Lighter was placed there. E

Gary's pic he sent me.

Mike: First off, you'll have to identify whether your car has the intermittent wiper option or not. Take a look at your combination switch, and tell us if you have 2 or 3 white dots for the Wiper Switch Knob portion. If you have 2, then you do NOT have intermittent wipers, 3 dots means you do (1st dot is the intermittent position, and AFAIK it is not an adjustable wipe cycle). Next, check the obvious: The fuse (2nd one down on the left side of the fuse box, 20A). Connection to the motor in the engine bay, up by the hood latch. Should be easy enough to disconnect, and re-connect to ensure that there is a fresh contact between the spade connectors. Connections to the combination switch, underneath the clamshell plastic that surrounds the ignition lock, combination switch and T/S switch on the steering column. If the fuse looks ok, you might still remove and replace or at least do a continuity check on it. Those glass fuses many times will look ok, but actually have lost the connection to the end caps internally and essentially be bad. Lastly, have someone put their ear close to the Cowl panel (the one with the ventilation holes just in front of the windshield), as you turn the key to "Run" (no need to run the engine) and turn on the windshield switch to it's fastest setting. If they hear the motor, but the wipers don't move ... it's a different problem. If they don't hear anything we still need to trace that the motor is getting electricity. Check those items out first. Enrique

That "purple trim" as described on the e-bay auction, may be an indication of door panels that have lost the Chrome on the vinyl striping. 2¢ E

Yes, and even if you get a very good welder that can fill the hole in one or two spot welds ... and therefore minimum heat ... the heat and spark will still burn the paint surrounding the hole. To recover from that you'll need to re-primer, re-paint and match paint or re-paint the whole fender/door. E

Like Ed says: BEST way.... MIG Welded Second best way...Brazed Third relatively good way .... Soldered Fourth Fairly Good Way ... POR 15 Mesh with Power Mesh Backing, and filled with POR Patch on the front. Absolutely WORST way ... Bondo. Second WORST way .... Duct Tape from behind with tons of touch up paint in front. All of them require work in a body shop to finish. E

To answer your question Mike, if you took your complete car to the shop and said, here are the sugar scoops that go in the front, please paint them to match....then the painter should have MATCHED the paint regardless of having the original PPG paint code. The PPG paint code would have been an excellent place to begin matching from, but any experienced painter would have known that after 1 year....there would DEFINITELY be differences. Although extreme, I've heard of shops that insisted on matching the paint rather than blindly mixing by paint code...even after only a few months. All depending on weather, and whether the car has been exposed to the elements, or simply been in storage and then depending on the lighting there (fluorescent and incandescent lights have different UV emission factors). On the other hand, if you handed the shop your sugar scoops, told them to paint them using PPG Paint code #123 .... the matching was not part of the job. Without the car there to match the paint, then you really can't hold them liable for the paint NOT matching. Sorry, but that's just my 2¢ E

Terry: I've insured all of our vehicles through ACIA which is the Auto Club Insurance available through AAA. I don't know if you have to be a member of AAA but since I am, it was a moot point. For the vehicles that I have an "Agreed Value" (68 Roadster, 71 240Z) I've both sent the agent pictures of the vehicle from the 4 sides as well as interior shots and printed pages from the NADA value guides. These are what have I've used. I'm sure others will chime in as to how they've done it, but the central theme will probably be that you need to have the insurance agent cite what the requirements for the company they represent are. It may be as simple as pictures and printed information from the internet, or it may entail a certified appraisal by a third party. Don't forget that even that may be subjective. One man's pearl is another man's stone. You'll want to clean the car up as best as possible, even to the extent of having professional detailers address it if you're not set up to do that properly. Then, if possible address as many of the quick fixes...or simply have them noted as having to be fixed and accept a lower insured value at first that you have up-valued later once you've effected the repairs/replacements. Items such as split seat vinyl, rusted rockers, cracked glass, etc. all point to a vehicle that isn't / shouldn't be valued highly (again, subjectively). Getting those fixed will allow you to have the vehicle re-appraised with a higher value. But the key is to talk to an insurance agent. It might even behoove you to contact or wait to meet other auto enthusiasts in your area to see who they've insured with, and most importantly what your area requires. Enrique

Start looking! E

What about the Hatch Hinge Weathershield Pockets? These are the "mitten" looking things that are inserted into the body and then the Hinge mounts inside. They're basically like rubber balloons to protect the interior from humidity entering through the hinge pocket area. If they're in good condition, I'd be interested in both pairs. E

That concave flare at the bottom of the front quarter valance probably happened when too wide a tire was put on the car and a sharp turn was made, which caused the tire to grab the metal and bend it out. E

I think it'd be much more entertaining to strap the doll either to the roof, or clinging for "life" from the hatch, or windshield... And don't forget to wear your helmet!! http://zapatopi.net/afdb/ And for those who don't remember the original discussion: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16699&highlight=helmet I can just imagine the cop's face when he pulls you over! E

From what I remember on another thread here, this was not the case. The Datsun production at that time went by CALENDAR year and did not take the MODEL year of American manufacturer's into consideration. That is Jan. to Dec. cars were a given year vehicle, which is why you have the 1969 Z's in the mix. The 1969 registrations and the cross-over registrations are due to both Dealer preference and DMV non-interference. Sometimes a new model year had a price increase...dealers sometimes took advantage of this. There's a good discussion on Zhome that Carl Beck wrote that helps explain that: http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html Datsun eventually did change their production shedule for the models based on the Sept-Aug calendar that U.S. manufacturer's use. But in 1970, they were still on the Calendar year. E

Ditto what Stephen said. You mention that you replaced the Ignition Switch, but are you referring to the Ignition/Steering LOCK instead? The Switch is the electrical part on the BACK of the Ign./St. Lock. From what you've written, and others who've had the same problem, I would check that Switch first. It may be that the bakelite portion of the lock has loosened over the years and has shifted enough that it makes enough contact for the relay to click but not enough to allow the Starter to power up. It might also be asked if you're referring to the Accessory Relay clicking instead of the Starter Relay. The Acc. Relay is on the Passenger Kick Panel while the Starter Relay s in the engine compartment. 2¢ Enrique

Aside from the repair methods, lubrication issues, and mounting methods that will be mentioned, the first and most important thing you MUST be sure of is...is that the choke cables DO IN FACT operate smoothly without any binds or kinks... and this before you connect to the carbs or mount the lever. If there's ANY binding at all, then you're just going to multiply it once you attach / mount them. If you do feel a bit of pull as you slide them in and out, then remove the cable from the sheath (straightening out the ends if necessary) and examine the wire. Any stray bends that can be discerned are the problem and must be eliminated as much as possible. Don't forget that there's only a few thousands of an inch give on each side of the wire cable within the sheath, it doesn't take much of a "bump" to become obnoxious. Once you've addressed the cable, seek out why the cable was bent and straighten out the sheath, again as much as possible. Lastly, when you mount the choke cable assembly, take a good look at how it's routed around the fuse box, the console mount bolts, the heater plenum. The path must be as direct as possible with the MINIMUM of bends. If you find that you must force /curve the cable ... you're already binding. Look and see if you can't re-route them to do less of a curve. And the final item...make sure that the carbs are allowing that pull action and that it's easy to detect when you've reached the stops. You don't want the pull to be so hard that you feel as if you're trying to yank the carbs off the engine. FWIW E

Rich: Both Stephen and Michael hit it on the head. Thanks for the compliment! E

Do an even more basic test. Stick a multimeter at the connector for the headlights and see if you get continuity at both the R/W and R/B with relation to the Red wire for the Right Head Lamp and Red/Yellow for the Left. If you get tones on both elements and both sides, then your lamps are fine. You'll still need to determine if you're getting power out there. E

Sky: Don't take it to a body shop. This is still in the realm of a very simple fix and we can get you through it. That you still have the large part of the Window Crank Handle attached to the door, and that it is giving you troubles to remove is a good sign. It says that you should ONLY need to replace the Crank Handle and be on your way. Take a look at the new handle you have, specifically the corresponding big round part. You'll see that the "back" side of it ( the side that faces the door panel) has a "tube" sticking out of it, that if you look deep inside of it, has teeth similar to a gear. Those are the splines that mesh with the splined shaft I've been referring to. Now, on that tube, you should be able to see two slots cut into the side of it that go through the tube. That's where the securing clip's "feet" go through to hold the Crank Handle onto the Splined Shaft of the Regulator. If you'll recall the clip is shaped similar to the letter Omega. The round part of the clip goes around that tube on the crank handle. If you get a small piece of wire and bend it into a "J" hook shape, you can reach between the door panel and the Crank Handle Slip Washer(and don't be worried/surprised if it isn't there) or the remains of the crank handle and tug on the securing clip. Imagine using a bent hook to lift on the handle for a bucket and you'll get the idea of what you're doing. The slip washer is only a piece of plastic to protect the door panel from the securing clip, but it does "disappear" over the years and unless your door panels are in excellent condition, don't fret over it. Since the securing clip can only mount with the round part either in line with the handle, or on the opposite side of the tube from the handle (which is now missing on your car), you should be able to hook it easily enough. Once you hook it and are able to pull off the hook (keep an eye on it, as you don't have a spare), the remains of the crank handle should come right off. Now, put the security clip on the new handle, it should be fairly obvious how it goes now. Collect the Window Crank Slip Washer that goes between the handle and the door panel vinyl and put it on the splined shaft before you slap the new handle into place as I described in the prior post. Hope this gets it Enrique