EScanlon

If the wiring schematic I checked for the 75 is correct, then there are two three-wire connectors for the turn signal switch and one loose bullet connector. There's a total of 7 wires. The first 3-wire connector has all 3 wires one on top of the other, and if it's similar to the earlier series connectors then it's the THIN spade lug connector, with all 3 in a row. This connects the turn-signals to the switch. The second 3-wire connector, per the schematic is a 3-wire T connector. Again if it's akin to the early Z's, then it's the wider spade connector and the wires are arranged similar to a grounded house plug, except that the round "ground" is another flat spade connector. (hope this makes sense) The bullet connector is to connect the ground connection on the Combination Switch to the Turn Signal Switch's ground connection. (The ground for both is made to the Comb. Sw. first.) The "T" connector should have both a Red/White and a Red/Black wire as well as a Green/Black. The G/B wire is for the horn, so you can ignore it for now. The Dimmer switch just connects EITHER the Red/White to Ground OR the Red/Black to Ground. It does not connect them to each other at all. First disconnect the T connector. This will help isolate the Dimmer switch (and also the horn, but we're not working on that). Next make a small jumper wire to connect to the individual wires in the harness side of the connector. Next, check that your headlight high beams work by grounding the Red/White to ground (bypassing the T/S switch), and then turn on your headlights. You should have HIGH beams on now. Do the same with the R/B wire and you should see the LOW beams come on. If everything checks (both turn on the headlights) then do a continuity check on your switch. Hope this helps, post your results so we can label this problem gone. Enrique

I'm currently re-organizing the garage and all the Z parts are tucked away (I'm working on my Roadster), so I can't tell you what color wire you might expect on the dimmer switch portion of the turn signal switch. That black wire you used may in fact be the connection to ground that the dimmer switch is looking to connect with when IT is switched. It MAY be that you now have permanent High beams just when you turn on your lights. Take the clamshell off the turn signal / combination switch and see what wires go to the turn signal switch and in turn to the dimmer switch. Then if necessary get your trusty multi-meter out and check what happens when you click switches etc. The wiring colors I'm giving you are from a 240, they should be very close if not identical to what you have in the 280, but since I don't have a 280 I can't guarantee that. Take out your wiring diagram, and you should be able to discern where the individual wires going to the switches connect to. Don't forget that the wiring on the switch side didn't necessarily match the wiring color on the harness side, so go by the wiring colors on the harness to compare to the wiring schematic. But as far as power to the stereo coming from the steering column area...well, I've seen it done, but it would be best to power directly from the fuse box or battery. I'll look around and see if I have a wiring schematic for the 75 280 other than those at atlantic z club. E

Warren: Unfortunately, it really depends on the size of your mitts and how easily you can move them into different pretzel bends and THEN...how easily you can change the bulbs with only three fingers to do it with. If you can reach the wing nuts for each of the instruments and un do them, then you can pull the instrument out from the front....except that then you have to be able to put the wing nuts back on.... Short of removing the dash completely, with the instruments and wiring harness unmoved....nope. There really isn't another way. FWIW E

Mike: Check the Red/White wire that connects to your Turn Signal switch Dimmer. If it's not properly hooked up, no juice can flow to the high beams. Hope this helps. Enrique

Sky: Check whether you have FRONT marker lights and Park lights. If you DO have lights there, but still no rear markers/park lights and dash lights, then your problem may be at the dimmer switch. (Located on the right hand side of the steering column, on the lower edge of the dash.) If you do NOT have lights up front (excluding headlights) then your problem may be at the combination switch connection...whether IN the switch, the wiring connections AT the switch, or the wiring connections TO the switch. The cigar lighter (in your car, located in the dash) is powered by it's own stand-alone fuse. That fuse is the one on the right hand side of the fuse box, the lowest one (bottom). It's a 20 amp fuse. Hope this helps. Enrique

Sky; When you say the handle broke off the door, I'm presuming you're referring JUST to the handle part and that the splined shaft is still protruding from the door panel. The splined shaft is a tube that looks like someone extended an asterisk (*) into a long tube and left the spaces between the "arms" in the length of the tube. If that is the case, then it's easy. The handle should have a clip on the underside of it that looks like the Greek letter Omega (Ω). This clip fits around the main tube on the handle and protrudes it's little "feet" INTO the tube's inside diameter. To install the handle, place it in position on the door at approximately the same mirrored position as the other door. (What this means is that if the passenger side door has the window closed and the handle is at the "9:00 o'clock" position, then put the driver's side door handle at the "3:00 o'clock" position.) Once the handle is positioned on top of the splined shaft, hold it firmly and give the large circle part (the one on top of the splined shaft) a swift smack with either your hand or a rubber mallet. This should force the clip to spread and snap back into position once the handle has reached it's proper position on the shaft. If on the other hand, your statement of the handle breaking off the door means that you have NO splined shaft ... then you have a different problem and you need a new window regulator mechanism. Hope this helps. Enrique

Here's a link to a prior discusson: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19942&highlight=wiring+diagram E

"Bird in the hand....." I remember this same type of situation when I bought my Headlight Covers. Several places listed them, and I even got a price "match" from one place....yet no results. Heck, I got a back-order info message 6-months after I'd finally received them from other sources, and I'd been told by the e-mailers that they were considering them NLA. Now this having been said, there will be another 20 listings on e-bay tomorrow, with one proclaiming a BIN of $35.00. Which begets the question: Which came first, the shortage or the high prices? E

Did you accidentally put YOUR self on ignore? Sorry, couldn't resist. All I can offer is...you broke it. E

This is where the little fine print at the bottom of the screen says " Your Results may vary." It's worked for me, on both metal and plastic. Will / Can it eventually separate? Probably, paint does shrink over time as it loses all the different solvents it has in it. How soon, or how bad? Again, I've had emblems go for more than 18 years as of my last conversation with the individual, but I've not seen the emblems myself. Then again, he's kept the vehicle pretty much garaged and taken care of. I've also seen emblems lose their paint in a few short weeks. Usually the short ones were found to be poor preparation (wax, oil, silicones) and other times it's been the wrong paint. And what constitutes the wrong paint is also subjective. I like the R/C paints, because they DO take a while to dry properly. But the strongest item is their ability to flex and adhere to the Lexan Bodies (basically the same stuff as you get your bakery items in at the supermarket in). But in the paint jobs I've done with Lexan, you don't scratch up the body. You just wash it with soap and water. A candy paint job is transparent, any scratches on the plastic would show up. When I've used them on chrome, it takes polishing/orange stick to remove stray brush marks. So, as a friend says: That's my story and I'm sticking with it. E

Dave: That you're getting moisture in the hatch plenum says that you have openings to the outside. With no emblems, that would be the first thing to close up. The next would be to check other openings and close them up as well. Unless you have a Series I with the vents in the hatch, there isn't any reason for an opening to the exterior (excepting the latch mechanism, which can't be sealed). Larry; Unfortunately they WILL go down in time, but it can be a long time for that. Unfortunately, while the 70-78 models shared TONS of parts, one of the items they didn't share were the door gaskets. Later year cars had a slightly larger space between the door and the body, which is why their weatherstrips are thicker. Add to that that not all weatherstrips are manufactured with the same specs (hardness of the rubber) and you have more variation. Your best bet is to adjust the doors to see if that will improve the fit. If you end up not being able to do so, then you might have to give up and buy the OEM weatherstripping or at least get a good quality kit. FWIW E

If you're burning up alternators, part of the car's circuitry isn't fully operational. The alternator is simply trying to generate MORE electrical charge from the small amount it draws from the battery. That it's burning up is either because the regulator isn't working properly or because part of the circuit is not connecting properly. At a guess, I would first check your grounds for the Battery and Starter, those being the two of the major draws on the system. After that, check the ground for the Headlights. But that aside, have the alternator checked before you go exchanging items trying to chase down a small problem. E

Dan Since you're in AZ most of the problem will be that the paint needs to expand and contract as the metal will. While I've had good luck with plain old model paints (Testor's, Model Master, Pactra), it's also because I'm up here in the PacNW which tends to be much gentler on temperature spikes and dips. However, with that being said, one type of paint that I've used is the Pactra line for R/C Plastic bodies. These bodies get painted from the underside, and since the plastic body is very flexible, the paint needs to be somewhat pliant and bendable. It will eventually crack (especially if the body gets flexed a lot) but should last longer than a dry-hard paint such as the other model paints. The only thing I am not familiar with is how well they'll fare in the high temp extremes you guys can get. Look for it in your local Hobby Shop and ask them for piant for clear Lexan Bodies (R/C Cars & Trucks), you'll find all sorts of colors. Be sure to pick up the brand specific thinner, as other thinners and solvents will just curdle the paint. But that aside, the biggest obstacle to getting paint to stick is to ensure that the surface you're painting is CLEAN. I don't just mean free from dirt, I also mean wax and grease free. So, put those emblems in the sink, use plenty of warm/hot water and scrub the heck out of them with a toothbrush and some grease cutting detergent/dishwashing liquid. I use Dawn and it cuts through some awful gunk easily. Afterwards, blow dry completely and then use some of the thinner for the paint to scrub the surface to be painted. Wipe / blow dry and allow to sit for a minute or two (to let the excess solvent evaporate). Then paint to your liking. Hope this helps. Enrique

The scuff plate is exactly right. It will help hold down the ends of the welting and the weatherstripping preventing it from popping loose and getting hooked on something. The other alternative is to use the 90° corner to hide the ends of both the welting and the weatherstripping, and in fact makes for a cleaner installation. E

Dave: Do you still have the interior metal piece with vinyl on it that helps hold down the gasket welting after the gasketing is installed? If so, then put the seam in the rocker panel area and use that piece to hold down the weatherstripping. If they've taken the time to cut the 90° corner for the upper part of the door, and that forces you to put the butt end of the weatherstrip up by the kick panel, then use the welting (the vinyl piece with the metal form inside that pinches the metal on the body and fastens the weatherstrip in place) to hold it in place and put the welting's butt ends on the rocker panel area. Hope that made sense. E

Yes, Grasshopper Billy, that's why you come to us for answers to your questions..... Don't forget that while you may have learned a lot....you most likely learned it .... from an old guy. And while you feel he's taught you a lot, he more than likely has NOT taught you everything HE knows.... E

There's a woman here in Vancouver that is in need of the Combination switch (no intermittent wiper), as her car's is starting to go bad. I'll see if I can get her to log on and give you a PM. E

Side Story: 20 years ago, in the Air Force, working as liaison between Supply and Purchasing (small parts and special orders), we received a request for a curtain rod. A simple curved (although to a specific shape) piece of metal to accept drape hooks with rollers. This was the rod that held up the flash curtain on a B-52, and due to the manner in which the B-52's were built in the late 50's, this specific shape of curtain rod applied to only ONE aircraft....the one I was ordering for. After exhausting the "normal" avenues of procurement, we finally contacted a curtain rod manufacturer that was willing to give a quote, all others had politely excused themselves from bidding on the job. The quote came in for One Curtain Rod.....at $5,000. That is Five THOUSAND dollars. I've had people jump in right away pointing out how this is another example of government and military waste, and when we originally received the quote, we requested justification from the manufacturer (per Fed. guidelines). The justification for the quote read simply... One hour to shut down, clean and set up for run. Run piece, and another hour to shut down clean and return to production....lost production incurred: 5,000 units valued at $1 each. The manufacturer was willing to give us the piece for free, as long as we reimbursed him for the lost production. This is the case with many of the parts we're hunting for. The market for them is such that the "DEMAND" may seem to be high, but the amount we're willing to pay for them hasn't yet reached the point at which a manufacturer is willing to invest in and hope to recoup that investment. And in a market where it is not only a closed market (it's not growing), but is actually diminishing day by day (cars being disposed of), the perceived "demand" by manufacturer's is actually much less. FWIW E

I presume you're referring to the Gel Knee Pads I strap on when I throw myself down to my knees and beg loudly and sobbingly from SWMBO. Other than that, it's more like "And just WHO gave you the 50¢?" to which I reply..."Every one of them....." E

Not being the mechanic that the other responders are, my suggestions may be moot, or not applicable. But with that out of the way.... Why not swap the fuel line to the Carbs, 1 goes to 2 and 2 to 1, then run your check again. If the problem now is in Carb 1, your problem is not the carburator but at a guess in the fuel rail between 1 and 2. If on the other hand, the problem is still with Carb 2, then your problem is in the inlet portion of that carburator. Next, try feeding the fuel directly to the carburators from the fuel pump. Use hoses approved for fuel use as well as the "Y" splitter. Check again and see what your results are. Unless you've managed to hook up the electronic choke on the carburators I wouldn't mess with anything electrical. All you'll do is compound the problem. Eliminate the fuel supply as the problem or not, THEN go on to other things. FWIW E

Tomohawk: The type of switch you use is dependent on the type of antenna you have. E

I'm going to try to address the various issues as briefly as I can...so bear with me, as verbose as I can be, that's not easy. I know most of you already know this, and repeating it may be obnoxious, but bear with me. The OEM Switch is a Momentary-SPDT, Single Pole (meaning ONE wire) Double Throw (meaning TWO possible connections). This means that it can either connect circuit A or circuit B to the incoming wire. In the Early Z's, that means it either sends 12+ DC it receives from the Blue wire through EITHER the Blue/White OR the Blue/Red. Momentary means that it doesn't "click" and stay connected, it's spring loaded and YOU must continue to keep it connected for as long as you want it to operate. The OEM Antenna has 2 wires comnig out of the motor housing. EITHER of those wires can receive 12+ DC. Depending on which wire is energized, the motor will spin in that direction. The third connection it has is GROUND to complete the circuit. The OEM Antenna is considered a Semi-Automatic antenna because while it does go up / down electrically, it requires you to close the switch and actuate it either up or down. Additionally, IIRC, it does not have limit stops that will disconnect the wiring once it is fully up /down. My replacement came from the dealer, and it will continue to whirr and click as long as I keep the button pressed. Today's Semi-Automatic Antenna, also has 4 wires coming out of the motor body, but DOES NOT REQUIRE A GROUND. That's because the M-DPDT switch you get with it does the power inverting that the antenna needs to operate up or down. A FULLY Automatic antenna not only goes up and down electrically, it SENSES when to go up / down AND it has limit stops at the extremes of it's travel. It connects directly to the radio's power on button. When you turn on the radio, the antenna senses it and then extends itself to the FULL Up mode. Turn off the radio and it reverses operation and retracts completely. There is NO middle ground in it's operation. Full Up/Down, that is the operation. Typically, these antennas have 3 wires. Ground, Constant 12+ DC and Radio Power 12+. For the record, a MANUAL Antenna is one that must be extended and retracted via HUMAN power. The Fully Automatic needs a Momentary-DPDT switch in order to operate AS IF it were an Early Z's OEM Antenna. By proper wiring you turn off ALL the power or only PART of the power in order to "fool" it into stopping partly extended/retracted. I've explained the switch wiring before in other posts. HTH E

Hey! You take that back!! We're just hibernating is all....give us half a chance to get worked up about something ... (sumpin") ...... >um.mmmm...mm... ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ E

Answer: Yes.

Ask the place you buy it at. In my experience with CB's, you have to tune the antenna and/or tune the radio to the antenna...at a fixed length. An electric antenna would have variable height, don't know how you would tune the CB radio to work with it, but that's the whole point. My experience is 20+ years ago, so best ask the dealer or distribuitor. E