EScanlon

Anti-freeze in the proper mix (50%/50%) in the cooling system and Winter Washer Fluid in the W/Washer tank...or drained. As Jared pointed out a Full tank of gas, and a small bottle of HEET wouldn't hurt. Oil freshly changed (so no moisture in case) and tires up to full pressure. Just my 2¢ E

Get a AAA Plus membership and a cell phone. 2¢ E

Randy: Make sure you run low wattage lamps...i.e. not those 100 W each H-4 monsters. If on the other hand you DO want the higher watt lamps, use the circuitry to power a Relay with it's own direct connection to the battery. Use only one of the connectors up front, and make sure you insulate the other pair. Remember, you're dealing with 35+ year old wiring which wasn't a heavy gauge THEN, and is now old and corroded anywhere it's exposed to the atmosphere. (Aside) This has been mentioned time and time again, the circuitry in the Z was NOT designed with high current items in mind. Additionally, the wiring they used BACK THEN, was at best...BARELY adequate to the task...THEN. Add to that that almost every exposed piece of wire has corrosion not only in the exposed portion but also anywhere from 1/2 to a couple of inches of the INSULATED portion of the wire adjacent to the exposed part and you can see how problems can readily occur. Where today you don't think anything of plugging in your power inverter/ amplifier/ accessory into the power outlet of your new vehicle at a whopping 10 amp (or more) max draw, that same 10 amps is the FUSED limit of 4 of the 10 fuses in the car. The other 6 are fused at 20 Amps, but NONE of the fuses nor the car's circuitry should be run at it's max amperage for an extended period of time. (Can you say---meltdown? And it HAS happened.) So, I re-iterate, make sure your changes / corrections / additions to the car's electrical system take the system's age and oroginal design parameters into consideration. FWIW E

At the front of the radiator you'll find two pairs of wires both Red and Black. Typically they're taped to the harness with Blue electric tape. Those are the connections for the Fog Lamps in parallel (that means they are both powered off the same circuit, but not dependent on one another to work). Inside the vehicle, typically behind the Fuse Box or Hazard Switch, (depending on whether the bundle has been moved or not) you'll find two sets of 2-wire connectors. In my car they were connected to each other even though neither circuit was operational. The first circuit is for the Fuel Pump (Electric) and it's pair of wires are Green and Black/White. You can see the in-line fuse holder in the attached pic. If you look closer in the pic, above and to the right of the connector with masking tape (labeled "console") you'll see another 2-wire connector with Red and Green/White wires going to it that has been taped with the Blue electrical tape mentioned. (See second pic.) That is the connector for the SWITCH and (in-line fuse holder if you run large wattage lamps). The wiring schematic calls out for a Red and a Red/Green, but the Red/Green connects to the Green/White wire that feeds the Side Marker Lamps and Instrument Lamps, so they may have changed the color in production. The Fog Lamps, being on the same circuit as the Side Marker Lamps operate ONLY when the Light Switch (on the Comb Switch) is at least on Parking Lamp mode. If you wanted them on in lieu of the car's parking lamps you would need to wire them separately. Take note however, that all you need to do is close the connection between the Red and the Green/White (or Red/Green) to have power at the bullet connectors at the front of the car. FWIW E This post has been promoted to an article

Steve: Arne is spot on, and Jim's car has second Hazard toggle in that location (if memory serves as to what I saw). That indent was to be used for the Fog Lamp Switch, which was an OEM JDM option tht was never brought into the U.S. (At least no pictures or switches have been located in the U.S. yet.). Even in Japan it was a rare option. The Fog Lamp switch has a toggle identical to the Hazard Lamp Toggle, but a different emblem on it. and connects directly to the Fog Lamp circuitry that is built in to the car's wiring harness (With an in-line fuse holder). The "optional" parking lamps and their switch-pair were a JDM option not brought to the U.S., but may have also been sent to countries with a requirement to illuminate the traffic side of the vehicle at night. This has been discussed and verified before. E

YIKES!! Marty is totally correct on this one. I'll take my lumps for not having re-terated that just being in an open air environment with lots of air circulating is NOT enough. You simply MUST use an organic paint filter mask...it may cost $25 or so, but it will definitely be MUCH cheaper than the headaches, dizziness, and vertigo you can get from only using a dust mask (voice of experience here, which makes my omission even more embarrasing). E

Sorry for the delay in replying. The Spray Nozzle I'm referring to is a simple Air Blower that attaches to the end of your hose from your air compressor with a subtle difference...it's had a tube inserted at the end of the nozzle and a pvc tube attached to it. The end of the pvc tube is put into the paint / liquid you want (a fishing weight works real well) to keep it submerged. Then releasing the air that allows the air rushing by it to suck liquid out (venturi principle) and then blast / atomize it thereby spraying it onto the surface you aim this at. Harbor Freight sells a very inexpensive air blower already prepped for this, P/N 37346 SYPHON SPRAY BLOW GUN it even includes the pvc hose, all you need to do is put a connector on it. Enrique

Traducciones tecnicas, aunque con que me paguen... Tipicamente de Inglés al Español, aunque tambien al revés. Aunque llevo 22+ años aquí, mi familia siempre ha sido bilingue. Yo tambien hablo Frances, y suficiente Portugués para meterme en lios. Let us know if that wiring set-up works. I haven't heard of anyone being able to get a later tach to work on an earlier dash harness, and it would be great to pin that down for folks here. Enrique

EXCELLENT! Nice job, and excellent reference on the replacement gasket pad. FYI, when you re-insert your heater core, wrap some closed cell foam on the sides where it comes into contact with the housing. That will not only "seal" it but will also prefent it from rattling. I found that the self-adhesive foam used for Pick-Up Camper Shells, where they contact the pick-up bed works best, plus you can also fin it in various widths and thicknesses. Additionally it also works for the "Room" flaps ( the flap openings at the bottom of the housing, below the heater core), although your vinyl/foam idea may be better. When you mount it into the body, use Plumber's Putty between the top opening in the housing and the Fresh Air Intake Vent. It has several features that work very well. It stays pliant for years, won't smell like caulking or silicone, and is unaffected by heat. Good Job. Enrique

You need to check the connector for your tach AT the dash harness. If the dash harness has a 4 wire connector with 4 wires: Green; Green/White; Black/White and Black, then you MUST use the 4 wire Tach. The 3 wire Tach is a later model tach and will not work with your dash. The later model tach used different circuitry for the connection to the coil. Unfortunately, the only diagram that shows that 3-wire tach that I have, shows it to be connected to an 8-wire connector to connect to the wiring harness. The Yellow and Green wires you mention as being next to the coil don't show up in any of my schematic drawings. Enrique

Excellent! And thanks! You'll be getting it back, to use as a spare or... E

Whether it's Arne's or Marty's, or both, the intent is to troubleshoot the operation (feeding a signal is not a problem for Gary) while comparing to one that is working, then identify the bad / failing / potentially bad components and then replace with current / fresh / updated parts in order to effect a sound repair and a procedure for repairing / updating other items. Those that are involved in this initial phase will more than likely be repaired and returned, I'm venturing to say free or very cheaply for the sake of research. Later ones would have that service done for a fee...to offset costs etc. I'm not looking for "It's broke, and I don't know what broke!" samples, but rather as Marty posted "The tach ...as normal till about 5500 to 5800, then it falls to practically zero. When you shift ...again as normal. ... I can't find anything that appears to be wrong." Since I'm looking to fund the research and repair out of change found in my other cars, I can't afford to buy them from folks, nor pay for shipping to and back (sorry, this is a very thin shoe-string). I also don't need 30+ samples either. Gary tells me that he only needs one or two that are failing as described, a good one (my spare) and the schematic and his shop. Gary has designed, built and sold some very high-end sound amplifiers and other electronic gizmo's, so I trust his feelings on the subject. The end result for us as a club, is to have a reliable REPAIR and UPGRADE procedure, which we can then have an electronic technician read and use to repair the tach's we send to him. FWIW E

In my best Sgt Shultz: "Nutting, I know NUTT-ING!!" As far as your tach, from talking to the electronic expert (who does work off schematic plans) after 30+ years a heat related failure of a diode or capacitor is not only NOT unusual, it's almost to be expected. So, let's canvas around to find you a proper replacement. Yours is a "4-Wire" isn't it? If it is a 4-Wire, instead of pitching the bad one, can I trouble you to send it to me? I've been looking for one with the exact symptoms you've described so that my friend can get in there and help me (us) identify a proper replacement and repair. I have my spare tach, which is in good working condition, the schematic, now I need one that is failing /has failed as yours is. With those 3 items, Gary (not beandip) says he can trouble shoot and help make more reliable. E

I think the problem may be more in the Ignition Switch itself than anywhere else. That clicking you are hearing is the Accessory Relay, which clicks on when power is applied to it via the Ignition Switch being in the RUN position. From what you posted, it may be that the Electric Ignition Switch (mounted behind the Steering Column Lock mechanism) has loosened up and the switch doesn't rotate far enough to allow the START contacts to actually make contact. Hence, no juice to the Starter. To check if this is the case, is relatively simple. Remove the Steering Column Shroud (AKA Clamshell), then remove the electrical connection to the switch. That makes it easier to remove the switch from the lock. Once the switch is off, re-connect the wiring to it and with a flat blade screwdriver turn the switch CLOCKWISE to the 3rd click stop. That should engage the starter so be ready for that. As you do this, take a look at the brown bake-lite compared to the gray pot metal and see if they shift as you turn the slotted center piece. If it does AND your starter does not engage, unless you force the switch, that's your problem. You can try crimping the metal down tighter onto the bakelite, which might work for a while, or try gluing it down with JB Weld or some other strong glue. The important thing is to remember that the internal contacts of the switch MAY be worn down below useable limits. Datsun used the same switch in various models, other than the Z, so finding a replacement at a boneyard or even the dealer should not be a problem. Use your microfiche to find the part number and hit your parts counter guy with it and you'll have better luck. FWIW E

Two items: --Check the Passenger's Seat Sensor that ties into the Seat Belt system. If that switch under the lower seat cushion is closed, the system will register as if an occupant is in the seat and will insist on the seat belt being used. --Check your Door Switches that connect to the Dome Lamp. The Z also had a buzzer to remind you that you left the Ignition Key in the lock with the door being open. If your Door Switch isn't clearing that, then it will buzz. HTH E

I do all my own bodywork, interior and electrical, and farm out the mechanical to a professional. But that's due to a job I held after college due to money crunch in 82, and have kept at it over the years (averaging one to two cars a year). Doing the mechanical work is entirely possible by you and your son and you'll find a bunch of guys here knowledgeable enough to advise you on keeping her stock, or pursuing a highly souped up engine / chassis. If you're looking to insert a V8 or something, then the guys at HybridZ.org are more conversant with that. As far as the exterior and interior as well as the electrical, I can't think of another site better than us here. This isn't to brag, it's a simple statement of fact. Since your intent appears to be one of getting a car that you and your son can enjoy soon, and effect some of the customizations / modifications together, then I suggest you look to spending more like $3,000-$5,000 for a basic well-kept and maintained car. This range will be more towards the "drive and enjoy immediately and only require refreshing of parts" vehicle; as opposed to spending $500 to $2,500 which will be the "bring a flat bed trailer and don't drive until you've made structural repairs" car. You could also opt for the $6,000 to $10,000 range which gets you into the "ready to drive to a car show" stage, or go whole hog and spend $10,000 to $25,000 and more, for the "you won't be driving this one, you'll need an enclosed trailer to take to Concours Auto Shows...climate controlled garage required" vehicle. But DO remember one thing, if you buy a $500 back-yard forgotten heap, it will take $20,000 and MORE to get it to be a $8,000 car...and I'm sure other's will chime in that I'm being unduly generous in that final price. FWIW Enrique

:hurt: :hurt: Geez! :hurt: :hurt: I offer a friendly libation and it's being touted as Dr. Jekyll's brew!:disappoin That's ok, more Blue Agave for me... or Bacardi Limon Mojitos! :love: Arne, don't forget that you can't be a proper PNW Redneck without one or more car ports! They're on sale at Costco! E

Do post WHERE you are. A $750 price tag in the North EAST would be a tell tale sign of a junker, whereas in the South West, it would NOT necessarily be. Also, keep in mind that the less you pay for the car, generally involves a LOT of money to get it up to "standards" (those being yours), whereas paying a bit more for an already refreshed car will allow you to enjoy it MORE sooner. 2¢ E

Arne; When we next get together I'll buy you a drink! It was just too good to pass up. Even for a slapped together bogus site it's better than some of the "real" sites out there. I think you caught everyone's little "digs" at each other perfectly. That's why I had to share! Besides all that Arne, when are you going to get a Roadster? You know that's a requirement in the "Too Many Z's" Club of the PNW. Not sure of the requirements for the ANE, we'll have to ask 2ManyZ's about those, and hls30.com for the requirements of the ASE chapter. Then maybe Victor Laury can post the ones for PSW (or LA since it's it's own country). :cheeky: E

New Mid-Oregon Z Center: http://home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/szs.html Check out their range of services and this month's special! E

Heck YEAH! I would GLADLY show her any and all of my body working skills --- to be done on your Z of course --- via the Braille method. E

Judi: There is a 73 Z for sale here in Oregon that is truly worth a look. Unless your heart is set on a 280. This car is a single owner, always garaged 1973 240 Z with A/C , original paing, interior, paint and includes original wheels, hub caps, carburatords (currently has Webers with K/N filters). Owner has the original window sales sticker, rear bumper, front bra, shop manual, it also has an updated fuse block (spade fuses) and a host of other items. Contact: Kurt George via e-mail : kg1924 AT juno DOT com Replace AT / DOT with @ and . and remove spaces. (This is to prevent the robot site scanners from collecting the address) Feel free to use my name. Enrique

Victor, did you take any like you did LAST year? Those are the real "droolers"! E

AFAIK; it is strictly a cosmetic difference. The only time I had one of the newer style emblems in hand was when I became aware of it (Pre-microfiche CD days), and thankfully Troy from Too Intense Restoration was willing to exchange it. E

Arne: If being "Period Correct" is key, you could also use the standard "Z-Mag" that just about everyone has. You know the one I mean, (I can't find a pic right off), 5 "spokes", oval cutouts between, flat dish in center, with or without caps (press-in or screw on). Polished up, they really do look sharp. E