EScanlon

71053 here

FYI: Your car being a 72 takes a Rear Deck "Datsun" Emblem just as shown in the picture. It has squared off ends on the end of the curved line for the capital "D" and the cross piece on the lower case "t" as the most noticeable difference to the style in use for the later 73 + cars. That latter emblem has rounded ends. Magnify these photos to make out the details. E

Looks excellent! If you still want to paint with POR, don't waste time and effort with a brush, use an air blower with a venturi at the tip and a hose into the POR can. It's called a Spray Nozzle and it will speed up your POR painting by a factor of at least 100. E

Off the top of my head; check that there isn't a cross connection between the Dome Lamp fuse and the Parking Lamp fuse (third and fourth fuses down on the right side of the fuse box). Aside from that check the Hazard Switch, both circuits mix there. E

Not to hijack, but could you explain this to us "Yanks". E

:cheeky: You mentioned ONE "of the plugS", so depending on whether it is one or two: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=8 http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2 E :cheeky:

Unless, of course, you installed the Engine Oil Bypass Kit from Kale. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=8 In which case, you need to pull the distributor to check it.:cheeky: E

Did anyone notice that the engine is mounted ON AN ENGINE STAND? If his heater were to work, then the Aliens have wired it up. E

I was referencing OLD memory, and just glanced at an old wiring schematic, so it just goes to show that even memory can play tricks on you. E http://www.indepthinfo.com/wire-switch/light-switch.shtml

Unfortunately, if "common sense" were indeed, in FACT...COMMON, it would be called INSTINCT. E

Find out how much, you might be very pleasantly surprised at both UPS and Fed-Ex rates, not to mention good old Greyhound.

The Underline identifies Murphy at work. The Bold identifies Fail-Safe methods of maintenance. E

The wire going TO the switch from the attic is probably all you'll find up there. That's because the switch in the wall is controlling the wall plug, and as such the wiring for the plug would have to come directly from the switch. That means that the wires in your attic are continuous, and are the power feed to the switch...as such, no junction box is required or necessary. (remember the name of the JUNCTION box says it all. No junction, no box.) That being said, you will need to splice into the wire going to the switch and install a junction box so that your splice is covered/insulated. Match the size /style of the Romex wire (i.e. 3 wire/12 gauge or 2 wire/14 gauge) and then route your new wire to the fan mount junction box. (You DID brace it to the ceiling joists didn't you?). Now this will give you a pure power wiring to the fan's mount. Now, if you wanted to add a switch to the existing switch box to control the fan: Route a Romex to the box, and wire one half of a dual switch for a single gang box, (the other switch on that dual will replace your present single switch for single gang box) with both of the power wires (black AND white), one on each pole of the switch. Go ahead and ground the switch with both ground wires. At the junction box in the attic, break the power connection TO the fan by disconnecting the WHITE (this is the "Hot" wire, the Black is the Neutral and the Bare is Ground) wire from the power source connections you made earlier. Now you'll have two switches in the wall. One operates the fan, the other operates the wall outlet. One note, if you're planning on getting one of those remote controls for the fan, check the instructions for it FIRST. You might find that it will require 3 wire Romex and if you've run 2 wire... FWIW E

oOPS I had it bass-ackwards but still generally correct. Thanks Gary, now you see why I take mine to a mechanic. E

Unless you are required to have that air pump as part of your emission system by the DEQ laws in your state, most people remove them ... other than those who are maintaining a "show" quality engine bay. Even that can be debated (there are ways of faking the air pump). As long as the belt that propelled the air pump did NOT also propel another component (alternator, A/C compressor pump, fan, water pump...etc.), the only change ~might~ be a slight change in the air/fuel mix. That's only because the air pump pulls air out of the exhaust and pumps it back into the intake to burn whatever gas didn't burn the first time. That's a very simplified version / explanation. There are other guys here that know the specific details as to what to expect, adjust, ignore, and I'm sure they'll post also. But this will at least allay your main concern. E

Good idea on the extra backing for the vinyl. Whether it's Jute, Tar-Mat, or..., it helps keep heat and noise out. As far as your Qtr. Window Dog leg trims, are you re-using the old ones from long ago? If so, is the chrome starting to peel? If so, I ~may~ have a fix for you. Give me a PM. E

You're right. Send it to me, and I'll get it fixed and painted properly. E

300 MILLION people worldwide, per the news tonight, watched his memorial. That's a serious cause for thought. I can only hope that even only a small percentage of those people carry on his message of caring for the animals and the world around us. Whether we are living in the only planet with life on it, or are one of a myriad of other planets, his message was that we should preserve it, for our children and their children. May his message carry on through the ages. E

Whew41: I'm posting our exchange via PM's so that you can see that it isn't just my viewpoint, but that others share it as well:

Even better, find out how many folks need an OEM original filter and sell it to them with a small profit. There are some Concours owners who would jump to have one of these. 2¢ E

The SUGAR SCOOP / HOOD 3/4 View!!!

Excellent point Jim (a7dz). JimmyZ, another couple of items make me wonder if you followed the instructions. You mention, Since the instructions clearly state that the metal should be completely dry after degreasing and etching both, and to NOT let either substance dry on the metal (they both get rinsed off), even taking Florida sun into account...that's a mighty short window.You previously said Based on that, I would surmise that you thinned the POR with ...??... Even POR's instructions state to not thin it more than 5% per volume, and then using their special thinner which, from personal experience, is really still too thick to spray out of a standard bottom feed gun. Now supposing you used a gravity feed gun, your suggestion of 4-5 coats and comparing that with a "whopping 100 mils" tells me that at best each coat of yours topped out at ... 15 mils or so (and that's presuming you painted THICK). So at 30 mills (.030" or less than 1/32") of thinned and sprayed POR you then allowed water to pool...in Florida, with a presumed higher salinity to the rain than in Kansas or even 100 miles inland...and Even you mention I'll disagree with you regarding "being properly POR'ed", per your own commentary. It seems that if anything, you proved how well it works EVEN when you don't follow the directions AND you stack the deck against it. As far as Stainless Steel floor pans, you don't mention which grade of Stainless to use, nor where or how the average garage mechanic is going to procure the specific welding wire and flux gas for welding Stainless to Carbon Steel. Nor deal with the other problems and technical experience needed to do the job properly. Then you mention Does that mean you don't advocate a complete continuous weld because of the difficulty of fitting the repair piece? How do you propose to restore the strength back to the floor pan?Sorry, but that's just too many short cuts taken for me to give much weight to the rest of your advice. You've apparently had some experience, but you're apparently self taught. Nothing wrong with that, but it's easy to confuse an apparent lack of failure as being successful. Please don't misconstrue this as being a flame war, it is not. There are several of us here on this board that have worked on numerous vehicles over a range of years. You've done a lot of good work summarizing information, but please note that what you've posted on your site is only YOUR view, whereas here we've all contributed AND discussed. I strongly urge you to take advantage of the search engine here and do some reading of all the posts that precede your joining us. I think that you will benefit and hopefully will stick around and benefit US with your viewpoint. 2¢ Enrique

Ian, don't forget that in your neck of the country, the sun shines for days on end, and moisture is generally NOT a problem, you CAN find metal parts that in other parts of the country are rusted and gone long ago. Then again, finding any kind of plastic or vinyl part that has survived 30+ years of the Southwest climate simply doesn't happen. Ever hear of "Dry Rot"? of sun-damage? Both very prevalent in the SW of the U.S.. So, here in the Pacific NW, we wouldn't consider sun visors on a parts car an unusual find, YOU would. Conversely, the splash pan for us for us IS unusual and for you it isn't. So, with that in mind, how about you suggest to your friend that we swap out a pair of sun-visors for his splash pan? E

Stephen: Good catch! I'll take my lump for that one! But I admit I need help in tracing down that Black/Green wire that Chuck is referencing, as well as that lone Black wire. I've checked all the wiring diagrams I have and none show a Green stripe on a Black wire anywhere. Then again, it might be my astigmatism. Does anyone know? E

The rear window might be repairable with one of those defog kit paints. I've not done one so I can't speak for how well /easy it works. Black / Green, and sorry to appear obtuse, BLACK wire with a GREEN stripe? And by the coil and distributor in the engine bay, or in the cabin by the combination switch? Also, i syour car an Automatic or Manual (AT / MT)? Electronic dizzy is short-hand for Electronic Distributor. Typically a 78-79 Z distributor with the E-12-80 module, as that works best on these non-EFI cars. E