EScanlon

Ok, here's a perfect example of RICE: This is an obvious attempt at a modification that sadly....didn't make the grade. This is from e-Bay UK, and here's the Auction URL. (Thanks to the Mail-List) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220017232204&indexURL=2#ebayphotohosting Now, since the pictures and auction will eventually go away and lurk in shame, here are the photos. E

Jeremy; Try tweaking the pivot points. Sometimes all it takes is one tiny little tweak to release the pressure on that axle, and it will keep running. E

Stephen got it. The girl with the wind blowing behind her (there's a pun there if you look hard enough), is an unexpected sight. Not something you go out planning to see or find, but when it happens....you smile and savor the moment. That's Eye-Candy. A beautiful car, modified or not, accesorized or not, and as pleasant as viewing it may be, IMO can't possibly give you the pleasure that the young lady in the first picture does. (With respectful apologies to those who DO derive such pleasure.) But as to modificaitons, is that sometimes they are not only unnecessary, but sometimes downright oxymorons and sometimes they DO look good. I recently saw a late 80's Buick Century with extra wide rear tires with flares and thinner tires in the front. The car had a retro back to the 70's look to it, with the raised rear end, lowered front etc. In general, the car DID look presentable and acceptable.....except it's a front wheel drive car. Which renders the whole of his modifications in the "Huh?" category. BUT overall, the car did look good. So while this would ~technically~ be rice, it did look acceptable. However, some modifications are blatantly....wrong. Four foot tall air wing on the back of a Civic? Hood Scoops on a VW? Six inch exhaust tip surrounding an 1-1/2" muffler pipe? These are the ones that didn't make the grade. And although people are ribbing Prox about his Home Depot Air Dam....I think it looks ok....at least in the pictures he sent in. Maybe he's an excellent photographer and he's not showing us the bad shots..... It isn't WHAT the mod is made from, it's what it ends up looking like. Granted, I hope for his sake that he never encounters any streets that are less smooth than a billiard table, but maybe that's why he went with the Home Depot stuff...it's cheap and disposable. FWIW E

Not to divert the main topic, but in hopes of actually diving in with both feet.... I think that the posts so far point out that the term "Rice" or "Ricer" are being flung and slapped onto vehicles that would be better termed "Modified" or "Custom", while proclaiming that that defines the term. Where the mechanics and applications of the term are in fact what eventually creates the term (I'll explain in a bit), sometimes the term is so vague as to deny / defy where it came from. (Confused? Then hang on...) IMO, Rice refers to that modification of vehicles to appear / sound as if they had in fact been modified to the extent that their appearance shows. That is, Large Air Wings to imply that the car travels so quickly that it needs the additional downforce of an air wing (on a Front Wheel Drive car, where it would prove disastrous). Extra Large Exhaust Pipes, whether out the back, or on the side, or .... to imply that the engine needs to have this size piping due to it's "oversized" capacity....while still maintaining "street-legal" status (ever seen a dragster with a muffler?) that must be made to reverberate in order to mimic the sound of a truly needed exhaust system. Oversized tires to imply that the cornering / acceleration abilities of this vehicle are such that the extra contact rubber on the pavement are required in order to maintain control, while forgetting the offset and having them rub on the fenders, or my personal favorite, the extra wide tires on not wide rims. The addition of "High Performance" Air Filters....with the additional wind vanes, vortex generators and ionic particle chargers to ensure that the positive ions in the air being sucked into the engine have been mollecularly aligned to ensure efficient combustion of the similarly magnetically aligned gasoline being injected. But not using a fuel filter because you're afraid of "Restrictive Fuel Flow" or disturbing the magnetic flux you've imposed. Of course, the required "sponshorship" stickers all over the car to denote that without the corporate backing of this vehicle, it would not have been possible to effect it's rise to "fame" (while ignoring the fact that you've turned your car into a rolling bill-board of cheap advertising that YOU paid for). Even better, you don't have to actually USE the product to plaster their sticker, or my favorite, plastering competing companies stickers all over the car....when you can only use ONE of them, or when one negates the use of the other(s). Ever notice that the flashier stickers are sometimes for items that really do NOT enhance performance? And let's not forget the almost required Japanese Script across one or more windows....that only Japanese people and people fluent in the language can read....that usually you find out is; Upside Down, or says something like "Minuscule Sex Organ" or "Sexual Intelectual" or "Ostrich Brain Transplant Recipient". So what about the true-blue modified vehicles? A car that has had it's springs changed / modified / supplemented in order to achieve a different response in handling would be entitled to denote that with the new spring manufacturer's logo on the car...if only to denote the pride the driver has in having effected that change. The same applies to many other modifications / changes. So what IS the difference between a "Ricer" and a "Custom" or "Modified" vehicle? I think the answer lies in the action verb in the first few definitions...IMPLY. To IMPLY is simply to indicate by inference, or consequence as opposed to a direct statement. Simply put- to express indirectly. In the examples above, they imply that the vehicle has been changed to require those mods, or that it uses those products, or..... But, to get back to the basics, someone who implies to be something that they are not, while not blatantly saying it, is simply....a POSEUR. A Poseur wants you to think that they have the qualities they affect, while ignoring the fact that it is obviously false. So, in the examples given previously, a RICER is another way of saying POSEUR or simply a POSER. They Pose, while not having the ability to perform. So where do the terms Rice and Ricer come from? Rice / Ricer, IMO, come from the fact that, in Japan, for a multitude of reasons but mostly because of the social compression (i.e. large populations in small areas) that they live in in the cities, they need to find ways of individualizing and making their vehicles stand out from the rest. While this is also possible in other countries and cultures, don't forget that the innovative Japanese are the ones with the leading edge on creative electronic products and impressive packaging, and most importantly, they have the disposable income to buy these. Another country to do this...USA. It also happens in Europe, Australia etc., but WHERE a fad starts from is as important in the name it gets as why it gets that name. Japanese guys, in an effort to make their little Honda Civic distinctive in a city filled with Civics, or the little Toyota, etc. would readily buy LED Side Marker Lights, or clear lensed tail-lights with interior Red Lenses...and eventually these get accepted by a lot of people and installed on many vehicles. Now, the individual must find yet something else, and the cycle continues and expands. However, as it has been noted before, you can do a lot to a car in Japan but you can't mess too much with the engines....as that involves a different tax base, never mind the expense of having an engine bored out an additional liter or two. So, it becomes fashionable to APPEAR as if ..... When other folks in other countries copy that, sometimes people will try to mimic the "original" items, with the subsequent cheapening of the original idea that ends up labeling due to the concepts provenance. It is a known item that Japanese cuisine involves a lot of Rice, this isn't a denigrating comment any more than saying Texans like Chili, and Mexicans like Beans...they're basically commonalities amongst a group of people. (A stereotype is not, by itself, an insult.) In the U.S., for years items coming from Japan have had the "Rice" connotation added to them by people who would denigrate the items. Remember when a motorcycle from Japan was called a "Rice-Burner"? Or when walking around with a camera or two on your neck was being a "Japanese Tourist"? How about when riding a Harley-Davidson immediately labeled you as a "Biker" and an "Outlaw"? So owning a Japanese vehicle, technically by the above logic, we're all ricers, i.e. we drive vehicles that came from Japan. But a lot of you will scream; NOT ME! And you are right. Enter the "wannabe", who would also like to have a fast car, and can't afford it. But for pennies on the actual dollar required, he can affect having many of the true blue modifications. And, IMO, the true RICER is born...a POSEUR who hasn't effected any actual changes, just likes to don the appearance of such. That guy, in my opinion, is what makes the term such a laughable and insulting label. I don't mind the change of an exhaust system to include a bigger muffler and tail pipe....I mind the coffee can tip added to a stock muffler. An air spoiler added to the back of a car to change the air flow over the car to stop the exhaust fumes from being sucked into the rear vents is IMO a needed modification. The air wing on the back of a front wheel drive car....displays the driver's ignorance. If in fact the car COULD go fast enough to need that air wing, the car's driving and steering wheels would be lifted off the ground and cause a serious accident. Modifying the fenders to accomodate wider wheels would be rice if it ends up on a car that only goes to the corner store and back. But if it is on a car that does do some energetic driving on a winding country road....no. Then again, if you put on white sidewalls ...it's not rice, it's stupid. So, for my 2¢, a RICED car is one that has had mods, additions, etc that are worthless other than their visual implication....or simply put... a POSEUR. E P.S.: By the way, someone mentioned "Eye-Candy" as being those items added to make a car appealing. Sorry to disagree, the picture attached IS Eye Candy. It makes your eyes happy, they might even water with joy, and best of all, it's non-fattening and you can't be accused of doing it on purpose. The second picture, as pleasing as it is, is simply a modified car.

If you're that concerned about loosing the emblem, instead of the speed nuts that Nissan used (and Carl Beck referenced) or the Flat Speed Nut that DatsunZGuy mentioned, try the PAL nuts in the following attachment. They're kind of like a sheet metal nut that you can thread on the posts. If I recall properly, you can even get some with some caulking inserted in it to waterproof the back of the metal. E 83-89palnut.pdf

You might also check with your local NAPA or Auto Paint Store. They usually have a good selection of interior fasteners and flat nuts are easy enough to find. E

STFU = Shut The Frak Up (Thanks to Battlestar Galactica!) NOS = New, Old Stock Term referring to an Old item that used to be a Stocking item, that was never sold originally. Most commonly refers to items still in their original packaging from years ago, or that have never been installed / used. CZC = Classic Z Car (Club); mainly THIS site. IZCC = Internet Z Car Club (Zhome) E

You're right Arne, it takes such a minute tweak on that screw to equal several minutes that 3-5 a week....I'd live with it. Heck, I'm living with 3+ minutes a DAY. It kind of works out, if I get in the car and I have to set the clock back more than 15 / 20 minutes, it's been almost a full week since I last drove her and re-set the clock. And it reassures me it is still working! E

Zak: Although not up to the technical expertise of this post's write-up, here's one article for the mechanical clock, JECO. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18442 MikeW: On a separate note, did you try tweaking the pivot points of the pendulum gear? The pendulum gear is the one that rotates one way then the other, there is also a small pin towards the center which "flips" a small lever one way then the other. This is the heart of the clock and what regulates the "tic-toc". The pivot points are actually screws with an inverted cone to allow the gear axle pin to rotate and be held in place. If those screw pivots are in too tight, they will actually exert pressure on the axle pin and stop it from rotating freely. You want to just barely crack the screw pivots loose, while not unscrewing them so far that the pendulum gear falls out of position. Try that, as that has been the only other thing that's prevented others from getting their clock to work. Arne, how long has your clock been working now, since you fixed it? Mine is going on 4+ years. E

This was mentioned before, IIRC the problem was the wrong type of bulb inserted into the tail-lamp socket (Single into a Double) which bridged both the turn signal/brake circuit with the parking lamp. 2¢ E

I would really hate to try to diagnose the individual problems this way. The loose "feel" you describe could be a number of things which I or others may not interpret the same way. You really do need to take the lock system out of the door to give it a good cleaning to remove the years of dirt and crud that have no doubt accumulated within it's mechanism. This may be more of a task than you want to deal with right now, so at least get a can of WD-40 and using the straw direct a healthy spray of it into the lock mechanism from the door panel side. This should get things moving again. Then, address the issue of the adjustable rod for the door. If that nut lengthens the rod to the point that it is actually pressing the lever down (the Hair Trigger Door Handle), it will actually start to move components within the lock such that when you try to change some of those components, they begin to rub on others that they shouldn't. The Key Cylinder's "looseness" that you refer to has nothing to do with it's actual operation. The "looseness" is due to age, and the worn down components within the body of the cylinder. That's why almost "any" key will open it. It's operation is to simply move a lever attached perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. That lever moves the rod attached to it, UP or DOWN. The only way the looseness of the cylinder would affect the operation of the door lock mechanism would be if in addition to being loose (and allow any key) it also didn't rotate smoothly and got stuck in either the UP or DOWN position (i.e. Key slot not left straight up and down). I'm still looking for a lock mechanism with which I can take pictures and illustrate some of this. E

Mike: Check the title of the .pdf file. E

IPO = Idiot Previous Owner RTFM(I) = Read The Freaking (sic) Manual (Instructions) SUGARSCOOP = Headlight Surround on the 240 Z HCP = Heater Control Panel

Excellent write up! Probably as good as you'd get out of a laboratory! One note however, the Early clocks weren't of this type. This is the second series of clocks, but I'm not sure if they were specific to the Series III or IV. I won't speculate if the Series II weren't mixed either. However, all the clocks I removed from earlier series cars (70-72) didn't have any electronic components. The only way I found out about this style was when I was given one of them. I can't be absolutely sure of when the change happened as it takes disassembling the clock face in order to peer inside. But, it is still one of the best write-ups I've seen. Maybe change the title to reflect the electronic components in the interior to differentiate from the one that just deals with the gears / springs. E

Woops! Sorry Prox! PirO, when you get the door panel off, you should be able to see the rods going to the outside door handle and the key lock. The Key lock rod connects to the same lever that the interior door lock pull connects to. It's function is very simple, it basically flips the lever UP or DOWN. In the Up position it allows the cam within the door lock to release the rotating cam. In the Down, it prevents that. It is still possible to force the lock mechanism if the lever is ~almost~ but not quite flipped. The door handle has an adjustable nylon nut to change it's length from the handle to the lever it actuates on the lock mechanism. If that rod is set too long, it will actually force the door lock, which may be part of the problem with the key lock, as the lock mechanism has had the lever pressed against the door open part. I'll see if I have a door lock available to take pictures. When you adjust the outside door handle rod, many body shops adjust it so that there is little to no play in the door handle. This is done so that with very little pull on the handle the door mechanism opens. The problem with this is that the rod can actually be over-extended and actually pressing on the lock mechanism's lever. You also don't want the door handle to pop the door at the slightest lift. The interior door handle is also adjustable, but it's adjustment comes from the location of the assembly and not by lengthening or shortening the rod, that is, by moving the handle forward or back. Again, you don't want a "feather trigger" handle. E

Don't know about there being only one key on the vehicle. Depending on Prox's build date he may have a late 71 vehicle that got titled as a 72 and as such does not have the reversible key for the ignition. Then again, the reference at Zhome regarding key changes in the Series II denote the change to a reversible key here: "4. Reversible Key-for starter, steering lock and glove box. " (http://zhome.com/History/New71Late.htm) But there is no mention of the door lock key, so it is possible to presume that it is different from the ignition key. I tried to find a reference for when the cars went to a single key, and it may have been after the Series III, but I couldn't find one. E

The resistor by the coil, was only used to reduce the voltage to the points to prevent their premature burning out. If your car has been upgraded to an electronic distributor, it no longer needs that resistor, and in fact, may actually cause problems with your module. 2¢ E

The picture from the FSM, is NOT what was wrong with your post. That was the most constructive part of your "advice". In fact, it's probably the key piece that Prox will use to fix his locks, as I still think he has a misplaced or misaligned rod. You initially started asking if there were 2 keys in his possession. Since he is able to open and lock the doors, the existence of the second key is irrelevant to the discussion of his misbehaving lock mechanisms....unless you're implying that he doesn't know the difference between the two keys. Without seeing the actual lock mechanism (the part with the rotating latch) and specifically, the mechanism INSIDE the door as it operates and is operated by the rods from the interior latch and the exterior door handle it is grossly inaccurate to proclaim that the door lock mechanism is broken and needing replacement, which is exactly what your post said. Tthe key lock mechanism (which by the way ONLY toggles a small lever which either allows the door lock to be opened or NOT) actuates the same lever as the interior pull handle, and specifically does not latch or unlatch the door lock. All it does is allow the door handle or the interior door latch to actuate the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism is a rotating "key" that grips the latch "hook" on the door body itself. The door handle and the interior door latch operate the door lock mechanism via the long rod visible in the FSM Drawing you provided and the adjustable length rod attached to the exterior door handle. The mechanism is actually quite simple to understand once you take one out and look at it, but as with any sufficiently advanced mechanism it seems to be "Magic" to those who can't understand it, but trust me, there are no little people from Mars living in your door. Besides, the air and the gravity aren't correct. Your intention to help is noteworthy, however, sometimes the best help when you're not sure what to do is to let others who DO know be the ones to respond. If your advice were to be taken implicitly, then Prox would spend the next few days/ weeks looking for new lock mechanisms and spending money that may not be that plentiful. So, I'm not "picking" on you, as you may have thought, but rather that your advice needed a bit more clarification rather than ... replace the locks. That solution of simply replacing parts, is unfortunately too often the response to a problem, that with a little bit of investigation provides the knowledge to never bother a Z fan again. FWIW E

WHAT???!! If you can follow the logic in this, why not simply go buy a new car to fit the keys you DO have? After all, they are both NON-solutions. The problem on the Driver's door is occurring because somehow the lock mechanism INSIDE the door (and the key lock, nor the interior latch control this) has one of the rods that control it mis-aligned, or the adjustment for the door handle out of joint. In either case, the lever in the lock mechanism isn't traveling far enough to flip over to the "open" position. The passenger door has a similar problem. Again the rods that connect the lock mechanism to the key lock and the latch as well as the Push/Pull Rod. Or you could buy new doors with locks installed that match your keys.....:stupid: :stupid: E

Glove Box Light. Look on the opposite side of the plunger (which is on the door side) and you'll see a bulb socket housing if the bulb isn't in there. E

I too, hope that it isn't cancer. As an alternate possibility, it could also be to provide a Mounting Flange for the Filler Neck Ring and or to allow the ring to compress the Filler Neck Flange better. It should be easy enough to check though, there's only 3 screws holding the Filler Neck Ring to the body, remove those and see what you find. 2¢ E

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That looks as if the "cup" that holds the filler neck has rusted out and this is the "replacement" sheet metal. At least if you are referring to the silver metal around the opening. As to what Tomohawk is referring to...??? E

August 13, 2006 22nd Annual All Datsun/Nissan Show and Shine at Blue Lake Regional Park Northwest Datsun Owners Association (NWDOA) Time: 10:00 to 3:00 Datsun/Nissan Show & Shine (with awards) Bar-B-Que Door Prize RaffleCost: Car Registration: $12.00 (Registration includes Show/Raffle Ticket/1 Food Pass) For more information contact Dan Uphoff (360) 687-7235 or Dan.Uphoff@wfhonline.org I've been given to understand that this is the "REAL" Blue Lake Show and that it is held by the "REAL" NWDOA. EDIT: I've been given to understand that NWDOA IS the group that founded the original Blue Lake Show. 2¢ E

August 13, 2006 22nd Annual All Datsun/Nissan Show and Shine at Blue Lake Regional Park Northwest Datsun Owners Association (NWDOA) Time: 10:00 to 3:00 Datsun/Nissan Show & Shine (with awards) Bar-B-Que Door Prize RaffleCost: Car Registration: $12.00 (Registration includes Show/Raffle Ticket/1 Food Pass) For more information contact Dan Uphoff (360) 687-7235 or Dan.Uphoff@wfhonline.org I've been given to understand that NWDOA IS the group that founded the original Blue Lake Show. 2¢ E