EScanlon

You're missing the wire to connect to the Red wire. Since it's a switch, the wire you have goes to either the Red or the Red/Black depending on which one has the corresponding bullet connector (male / female) but you HAVE to have the other wire for it to do it's job. The switch closes the circuit between the Red AND the Red/Black to light the Reverse Lamps. Since I don't recall the 72's as having a Neutral Interlock, I would presume that your switch has lost one wire. Either replace the switch or repair it and add the wire it needs. Hope this helps Enrique

I guess nobody knows probably because most of us bought our car LONG after the original window sticker had been removed. Give Carl Beck a jingle and maybe he can decipher what you are referring to. E

Somehow this just doesn't ring true. Isn't this a little like "military intelligence"? or "Trust me, I'm from the IRS, and I'm here to HELP you!" E

Ok, although not what I would do to the car, I'm not grossed out either. So, could you define "Weird" please? That he's asking too much money is typical. He's invested a lot of money into putting what HE considers to be the ultimate performance package together and now he wants to get his $ out. Unfortunately, "Ultimate" is a question begging term and is highly subjective to the user. FWIW E

Went to Zcar to see if I could see their opinion and found this: And couldn't find your original post there....they must have pulled it. E

While everyone is giving you the soft shoe, I think you are the one to deserve a solid kick in the arse! By your own admission, you allowed your baser animal instinct to take over and respond in a stupid, idiotic and dangerous manner. Although you aren't 100% to blame, let's say that you're like Ivory Guilty...99 and 44/100% to blame. YOU think that's his trigger in order to excuse your idiocy. Warn him of what? That you would commit suicide in front of his pickup by slamming on your brakes? That you would express your hatred by allowing him to cream your car? That you have an idiot's wish to experience being a speed bump? You had the option right here to simply get in the right lane and let him go by. But you blew a perfectly good opportunity to not respond like an idiot. AGAIN??? Idiocy compounded with Moronic tendencies. What? Ignore your obvious affront to his manhood? YOU didn't ignore it. Of course, now you're justified in your stupidity. So now you escalate..... Round Three in Darwin's culling of the species.....Make him go OVER you. Couldn't let it go could you Brainiac? Oh SUUUURE, just act as if nothing happened. But by your own admission, you were in the LEFT lane all along. And you only NOW realized it? Or is this about the time that your sphincter muscle started to contract in convulsions of fear? Excellent, NOW you come to your senses. After you realized you had put your lives on the line. Heck of a way to gamble with you AND your wife's life. What does SHE have to say about it? Curious George the little monkey always had the ranger helping him out of trouble. So now you're Barney Fife and want to go play Cop..... Grins? or grimaces? And now that he's seen you, you hope he does .... WHAT? The person needing shot might have been you or your wife..... You had the first opportunity to ignore the insult, and you blew it. Then you exacerbated the situation and now it's his fault. Then when he won't let it go....YOU'RE the one to be offended. You got lucky. As others have pointed out, you could have been dead or grieving over your wife. While you may feel that this is too unkind and rude....hopefully you see it as the life-lesson it was and avoid it in the future. It has happened to many of us, myself included. It burns a hole in your stomach with all the things you want to do to the guy....but you GET OVER IT. It's way too easy to give in to the temptation and then regret it for the rest of your life. There ARE times to make a stand....and there are times when making a stand makes it your last stand. Don't make a stand for something so stupid. 2¢ E

Age, someone trying to "adjust" and shorting the lower board to the upper, resistor (?) between two boards getting fried. That's just off the top of my head. Others? E

I don't know that I would recommend using a strand of wire to check for a known fuse blowing situation. In the event of a catastrophic problem, you're simply allowing the melt to occur OUTSIDE of the glass envelope the fuse provides. Now you have a REALLY potentially hazardous situation. Do you stick a rag in your gas filler neck in lieu of a gas cap? (That is...a WICK?) Deedee, you DO have an electrical problem, but rather than keep throwing fuses at it, address it bit by bit. You've posted 3 different posts all relating to electrical problems and instead of trying to fix all three independently of one another, it may be that the problem is ONE item. Your "interior electrical problem", that addresses the map light, washer pump etc, are all off ONE fuse. This post deals with yet another circuit off of...ONE fuse. So now you have TWO fuses. Toss in your Tach problem with the intermittent read and blow-out reading and it points at something having been done in the wiring in the steering column area. Did you recently do any work in the clamshell of the steering column? Replace an ignition switch? Turn Signal Switch? If you disconnected ANY wiring are you sure you connected items back where they belong? Have you done the procedure known as "Clean the fuse box clips"? That's where you remove all of the fuses and then clean the clips that hold them. Don't forget to inspect and REPLACE the fuses...especially if they're the original ones that came with the car. Check the wiring diagram for your car, and trace out the individual circuits that are causing you problems and you'll discover that they all seem to come together at the steering column. FWIW Enrique

I agree on the POR Patch. Not a bad idea to patch it now before you weld the final piece visible in the hatch area. But you might be better off waiting till AFTER you have that last piece one, and then using the POR patch. If only to avoid the nasty fumes of welding through the POR. While caulking would help seal it, it wouldn't do as good a job as the POR Patch. Don't use Bondo, it's not designed as an adhesive nor as a seam sealer (it's porous). FWIW Enrique

Arne: Swap the tach, the 8k one is dead. E

I have one "better" idea... Contact KATS a member on this board, and ask HIM if there are any parts that you could bring to him that you could bring as a tourist to Japan. Sometimes this is an advantageous way of getting items into your country. While you're exchanging the parts, he might be able to show you around better areas of Tokyo than those you would see as a tourist. I'm sure he'd be thrilled to get some items from here that he might have a hard time getting there and vice versa. 2¢ Enrique

The Ballast resistor in the Z ignition circuit was only used to reduce the voltage from 12v to 6v in order to avoid burning out the points. Once you remove the points, there is no need to reduce the voltage, and in fact may cause you problems with the electronic ignition. The "stock" tach in a 240 (4 wire) uses a loop of wire coming from the ignition to the coil to sense the current spikes going to the coil. This loop of wire comprises TWO of the FOUR wires going to the tach connector. The other two wires are to power the tach. Now it ~may~ be possible for the tach to require the 6v voltage current through the coil but since it isn't part of the power circuitry going to it, I doubt it. The tach's power circuitry in fact, isn't even on when you're starting the car, it's only when the key is in RUN mode. Now, since the tach is sensing current spikes, presumably there is some sort of counter that divides by 6 in it's circuitry, and that may be what they need to look at in order to determine what component needs to be changed to allow it to divide by 8. Otherwise, the stock tach would read a full third higher with an 8 cylinder engine. (i.e. at 600 v8 rpm it would read 800, therefore at 3000 v8 rpm : 4000) Since the circuitry for the engine won't be that much different between Chevy and Ford, why not ask what they do for the Chevy and try that? FWIW E

David: In Spanish: Reina is Queen Princesa is Princess E

Nate: The underside of the cowl does show a bit of surface rust beginning, just to the edge of the Right Hand Side foam padding. You might want to address the whole underside before it causes any major problems. Now that you've removed that part, and cleaned out the cowl bucket, take the next step and remove both front fenders. The cowl drains into those spaces and it is there where you will find the accumulation of debris that causes rust in the front fender by the rocker panel. E

Unless the paint is peeling, cracking, or otherwise failing to do it's job and that includes looking good, then why not just have it polished? This is a much simpler and less invasive way of refleshing the look. Heck, if the haze on the paint (due to being sun-burned) is minor, you could do it with a simple orbital buffer and some of the polishing compounds and waxes available at the retail stores....without need of a high speed polisher and rubbing compound and swirl remover etc. Cleaning up the rubbers? Well some of them may not survive removing and replacing...hence you'll have the cost of new rubber. Some may simply need a little bit of cleaning and detailing for the overspray to come off. Engine hoses....if it ain't broke.... Fuel tank....if you KNOW of a problem, then go for it. But again I caution you of the "need to fix" bug that sometimes hits new owners of older cars. There's no doubt that you have a nice looking car, the pictures show that. I've no doubt that your intention is to give it the care and attention that it has - obviously - had all it's life. The car you HAVE, is what most of us would LIKE to have. If you're chomping the bit simply to spend time and money on a car...heck I have TWO in the back yard that I'll trade you for this ONE. Both run but both need some TLC. Get out, drive the car, learn it's high and low points and in a couple of thousand miles or so THEN consider doing all this. It may very well be that you find that some of these "must" items become .... insignificant. 2¢ Enrique

Spridal After reviewing the pictures in your gallery, let me rephrase my prior comment.... From the looks of every picture, from some very telling angles and critical places for rust and other defects to hide, I'd have to say that if you were to tear the car down for "restoration" you'd actually be taking a MAJOR step BACKWARD and actually REDUCING the value of the car. Unless you have access to a world class quality restoration shop, and can pay TOP dollar, you're not going to get what the pictures show. Unless you SPECIFICALLY took pictures to HIDE defects and AVOID showing problems that are visible to you and not the camera, then attempting to restore this would be like taking some grade school paint to the Mona Lisa to touch it up and "brighten" the colors. I hope you're getting the message. In my opinion, it doesn't look like it needs much work of any type....on the exterior. The interior / engine ~may~ need some, but that's only because you haven't posted pictures. There are areas that you will want detailed, but not anything requiring a "tear-down". Not knowing your level of expertise in working with automobiles or even Z's, I'd really - REALLY recommend postponing doing a major learning curve on something this nice. Just my 2¢ Enrique

Exactly! And as with all the other gauges in the car, some are more sensitive than others (remember fuel gauges that register Half when almost Full or almost Empty?) or as with the clock, some are inoperative. If you tease it, like a tiger it will claw your arm off and require something expensive. If you try to fool it, like your household cat, it will poop on your pillow and require something be replaced. If you ignore it, like your dog it will wizz on your leg and gnaw on your favorite slippers and you'll have to glue them together with Goop or Duct Tape which will let everybody else know that you didn't believe any of this...... E

Proof Positive!

So you are looking for the Pull Style Green Knob Hazard Switch. If I recall correctly, those were available pretty much from 73 on. Anyone out there? Unfortunately, I don't have one. You might also connect the two Green / Yellow wires together, as they conect the Stop Light Switch. While you're at it, disconnect the Hazard Flasher. According to the schematic the Hazard Flasher is only necessary in the circuitry when it's actually on. E

Wouldn't it be even easier to simply find the right Hazard Switch for your year? E

Q It may simply be that he's not able / willing to do the repairs, NOT that the car is unrepairable. If he is in fact an auto recycler, his mindset may be one of "I'll get a better one soon enough" for his wants/needs. Or YelloJacket05 may have simply bailed and sold the car to the recycler and gave him the pictures to help him sell it. It could also be that YelloJacket, like you, was looking to buy it and he found the same problem as you've posted and decided NOT to buy it. All solvable by a small road-trip, or a decision to wait longer. Spridal (sic?) recently bought a car off e-bay that he was on pins and needles about living up to the description on the ad. It turns out he got a heck of a deal and is extremely pleased. Not all e-bay deals are necessarily bad, you just need to be careful, as you are being. E

Larry; You found the "missing link". That IS the same car. Look at the pictures in the e-bay ad and compare the rear shot and the two tire shots. This may be why he's selling it. It also clarifies where he got the information that "it's a common problem with them. " E

I'd guess the guy is a boneyard recycler and is trying to get the most buck for the bang. East coast pricewise...he'll probably get it as the car is not a total loss from what he's posting. Rough, yes. But we've all seen worse and have encouraged people to repair them. Even the mis-aligned rear wheel. It may be as simple as a pair of control arms...not nice but not insurmountable. Rest of country.....overpriced. If this is your first one to look at....pass on it. It would be a challenge to someone who's worked on them before, and knows what to fix and where to buy it. If you don't have that experience...you're just throwing money away. 2¢ E

Jenny, sent you a PM with Kurt's info. Hope you made contact. Please post if you got the PM and info. E

I did: Car is a 1973 240Z 4Speed, A/C, Original Owner, Original Paint and interior, engine and spare. All original wheels, hubcaps, carbs (currently has Webers w/K&N air filters). Owner: Kurt George I'll e-mail him this page so he can PM you directly. Enrique