EScanlon

Now check continuity through the wiring from the haz. sw. connector to the comb. s. connector. That will tell you what to do next. You HAVE checked the Turn Sig. Flasher to ensure that it IS working, haven't you? At the risk of offending someone, but for the sake of those who might not know, you do know that the car's hazard flasher is separate from the turn signal? Enrique

Bryan, the turn signals and the hazards are both on the SAME circuit, just that the switches and flashers that control them are operate at different points. The hazards can still close the circuit with their flasher and operate the lights even though the turn signal switch on the column is inoperative. This was referenced recently, I believe it was Montoya that pointed it out on another thread. Check the switches and wiring at the steering column. Also check that the solder connections at the switch have not broken or come loose. If possible do a continuity check THROUGH the switch to ascertain that the switch is making proper contact. E

Ed: That really looks nice! E

Will: Aside from the expense of POR, why not coat the metal with it and then AFTERWARDS use plain old Body-Shutz? You know that the POR would do an excellent job of protecting the metal. That it would be underneath and any part of it that's exposed would haze over isn't a problem, it is after all, the undercarriage. But once you coat it with the Body-Shutz you'll deaden the panel to reduce road noise as well as protecting it from UV rays and rock chips. Body-Shutz is easy to spray, will stick to just about anything and is easy enough to scrape off to get to the surface below. Granted it stinks to heck and back when fresh, and it can be messy to apply, but in the long run it's extremely inexpensive in comparison to it's benefit. Bed-liner is hard and expensive, and as you pointed out builds up quickly. POR is as thick as YOU make it to be. At worst it would be 1/16" thick? Points to ponder Enrique

Actually Rick,......... There's been some commotion going on, but thankfully (hopefully) it's gone. Bill's been watching racing videos and looking at the crowd instead of the cars, go figure. (Boob's Thread) I guess I missed that you would be on a cruise ship, otherwise I would have further qualified my statement regarding internet access. As far as security in the airports, I'll relate one fast story. When 9-11-01 ocurred, I was in Santiago Chile. I will just say that everyone there was stunned as we all were. I left Chile for Brazil with my boss, who had neglected to actualize his visa to Brazil, so he was denied entry into Brazil. As a result, he had to either return to Chile, or go to some other country and get a new visa or be deported back to the U.S.. However, flights to the U.S. were cancelled and he didn't speak enough spanish to say thank you. I flew with him to Buenos Aires, Argentina and helped get his visa in order beforew we finally made it to Brazil. During all these entries and exits through the airports, security was the same, no changes from what we had come to accept as routine. When we finally were returning to the U.S. via Miami (from Rio), it was on the first day that international flights were finally being allowed to enter U.S. airspace. We were in amongst people who had been LIVING in airports all over South America. But now, security was extremely tight. I normally travelled with a laptop, printer and enough cabling and tools to connect, repair and upgrade computers in order to assist my dealers. When I was asked about the many number of items that had now become illegal......well, you would have been amazed at what I had in my computer roll-on. Suffice it to say that I would have been quietly escorted to one of their "private" examination rooms. And the rest of the passengers? You should have seen the small mountain of surrendered items. Nowdays, I carry all my "metal" in a belt-pouch (interestingly enough called a "kangaroo" in Mexico), and routinely remove my shoes, belt, watch and rings. Even then, sometimes the machines are set such that I think either my glasses or my fillings set the things off. In Chicago one time, I saw one man arguing with a screener regarding a pair of nail-clippers that he was being forced to surrender. He finally did, and passed. A few minutes later he returned to the check-point and brandished another pair of nail-clippers and declared that he had just bought them in one of the convenience stands inside......they quickly surrounded him and escorted him away. Don't know if he ever made it to his plane. Welcome back! Enrique

Check the connection of the driveshaft from the tranny to the rear differential. Also check the connection of the half shafts to the diff. I had something similar years ago and it was the bolts on the half-shaft that had loosened and allowed the half-shaft to fall out of alignment. Then when I would begin rolling, they would rattle due to the mass of the shaft being out of center with the center of rotation. Check it soon, in my case it caused the Left Rear wheel to come off at 65mph. Believe me it is NOT a sight you want to see. E

Not to slam you, but this is the kind of information that might be considered......unnecessary. When you see a beautiful woman walking down the street looking like a million bucks.....you don't want to know that's she's wearing a girdle, or falsies...... E

Don't mind our resident hillbilly. He's the "Moe" of our club's famous trio. You'll soon be able to pick out "Larry" and "Curly". :surprised :tapemouth J/K about Moe. Billy-Bob is one of our good ol'boy members and he's done lurnt a bunch! Ok, Ok. Sorry Bill ... couldn't resist. :bandit: Heck, Bill isn't all bad, Vicky seems to like him and that makes him OK. Welcome, and if you have questions do a search, and feel free to add a post on the threads that you need further clarification on. You'll probably find that some items have been added to time and time again. Enrique

If the insurance will pay for a complete re-paint, that's what I would suggest. New paint, regardless of how well matched to the existing paint, will still age differently than the older paint. A properly prepared paint job, specially if it's a repaint of the original color, will be nicer in the long run than a "patch" paint job. Aside from the paint job, Richard, have YOU consulted with your attorney regarding your boss' dragging his feet? Since you are already looking for a job, finding out what recourse you have regarding this cannot possibly set your case back and in fact may help resolve it. 2¢ Enrique

Actually I was referring to the "stripe" that seems to continue between the front and rear wheel wells that comes up from the air dam. But it has been clarified as a lucky reflection. When you look at the pictures you'll note a white (or possibly silver) accent stripe that accents the lowest edge of the front air dam, then follows up and around the front wheel well. Then it ~seems~ to continue on the raised body line to the rear wheel well. With the chrome trim around the windows, the colored center on the mags and the edging on the dam with the apparent body line striping just sets off the complete look of the car. I paint cars and love to do CUSTOM paint jobs that set off the car's body-lines and that 3rd picture, in my opinion, is superb. It sets off the car's bodylines in a very subtle yet distinct manner. I've seen expensive paint jobs that fail to capture the car's beauty, but this one literally sparkles off the screen. Enough! Sleepy-Z's head has probably outgrown his hat! (J/K ) 2¢ E

While both rotate and oscillate in the same manner, the two are quite different in their use. The unit you showed is closer to a production polisher and not related to the one in the second picture I posted. The one you posted is actually closer to what we used to use for heavy grinding and for polishing lacquer paints with the wool bonnets and polishing compounds, although ours didn't d/a. The typical D/A if I recall correctly can actually rotate higher than 6k orbits. But no matter, as long as you are careful and EVEN while sanding they'll work. E E

Actually, if I might suggest: If Chris loses, have CDavid choose which Hooter Honey dances, and if Chris loses then CDavid chooses. Heck, if you can get a Hooter Honey up on the table......I'm in!!! And I won't mind who picks which Hooter Honey. E

You have a good point. However, that $5k to $6k estimate in the Rust Belt states would buy you a good fixer upper, but NOT a car in the condition that the pictures reflect. Conversely, that same car in California, Arizona, New Mexico and other of the "arid" states would not fetch over 10-15k even with it's imputed rarity as to mileage and relatively modification free state. Ed, 26th Z and various other members from the East part of the country can attest to how rare it is to find a Z without having serious rust for less than $5k. That same $5k vehicle in the East would likely be called a "parts car" in the West, and not sell for more than a grand. Now, take a car that would fetch $10k in the West and it will easily go to $15k or more in the East. But this has been discussed just about every time a Z from the East gets sold on e-Bay. What those of us in the West would likely pass up, can be a gem of a find in the East. Conversely, if the East coast guys would pass up a given car then I'll almost guarantee that there isn't a West coast guy who would PAY for it. I hope he gets the price he reserved for. It can only help ALL of our cars, whether in the U.S. or abroad. Enrique

Whereas this: http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=5212&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=608&iSubCat=609&iProductID=5212 is the "typical" D/A sander. And this: http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=14433&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=608&iSubCat=609&iProductID=14433 is your typical D/A polisher. E

I won't disagree with you with regards to the FI, but I will also admit that I'm not an engine mechanic and definitely NOT a FI mechanic. Give Stephen Blake a PM, he might have an idea or two. That it died suddenly and then re-started after a few minutes could be symptomatic of various problems, which may or may not be anything related to what ails your car. Fuel filter; heated component losing connection--whether electrical or mechanical; AFM getting ready to fail, sensors not registering properly and these are only the ones I'm ~vaguely~ familiar with. Don't despair, someone here will come up with an answer soon enough. Enrique

Enigma: Wait up, your random orbit polisher is NOT a D/A Sander although it does have "dual-action" rotation. A D/A is understood as the body working tool and not the polisher. The polisher is an excellent tool for waxing or polishing but it is NOT designed for sanding, nor would I recommend you use it as such. Enrique

Time out, before we go doing the smelly butt inspection on this vehicle: Replacing the distributor on the early Z's was/ is a common "repair"/upgrade. Points are notorious for being hard to set properly (when was the last time you saw a dwell meter?) as well as for getting pitted, and changing the strength of the spark depending on how weak the spring on them is at higher rpm's. The replacement of the radiator falls in line with trying to restore the vehicle after someone had added the overflow tank. The original radiator is only a two row, if I recall correctly, and also very difficult to obtain. Calling MSA (a recognized vendor of Datsun Z parts) may have led to someone on their staff or here pointing out that fact. Given a choice between a very hard to find, inferior part over a superior part that is readily available....I know which way I would go. Now, if I were set on having a museum trailer queen......instead of a driveable car......I would opt for the original OEM item. However, the overflow tank points to the original radiator already having been worked/repaired/replaced. Then again, as far as the asking price...it IS in New York. That alone says a LOT regarding the expectations of the seller and the rarity of the vehicle. So before we denigrate it, and/or nit-pick it according to what WE would do if we could go back in time and buy it from the dealer, let's address the vehicle as it is now. From the pictures it appears to be a very nice, well-maintained and desireable vehicle. Hype about "lowest mileage", "only one", etc are just that HYPE. 2¢ Enrique

Well before you get swamped with suggestions to overhaul the muffler or swap the seats why not provide more details. HOW does it die? Click-poof it's done, just as if someone flipped a switch, or does it seem to lose power / acceleration or ....? When you say it won't start, what exactly do you mean. Does it cough, sputter, seem to want to start but just never seems to do it, or does the starter simply turn the motor over and over? When it finally starts, is it immediately, or is it as a result of a long prolongued starter cranking period. Does it run smoothly then or coughs as if it were about to die. What type of transmission did you have before? AT going to 5 speed? Did you eliminate the AT components in the wiring or at least render them null? What "other minor wireing issues" are you referring to? Are you talking transplanted components or spliced in items? Sorry but you haven't really given enough information to determine if the problem is electrical, or mechanical. Enrique

That accent trim on the wheel well edges sets off the car's lines and the paint very nicely. It's hard to tell from the second shot (side view) but it seems as though the body line running from front to back through the door has the trim on it as well. Is that the case? Although both the first and third pictures are close, I think the 3rd shot with the sunrise reflecting off the upper part of the fenders and door as well as the subtle reflection on the mags makes that shot Calendar material. Congratulations!! You have a very sleek and sexy machine. Enrique

Will: for those odd areas where it is real hard to get the D/A pad into, try a different technique. Take your small air grinder, the one that looks like a pistol and uses small grinder disks / sandpaper with a stiff backing that is smaller in diameter than the disc you are using. Next, with your metal shears make diagonal cuts all around the circumference of the pad. You don't have to make them very deep, a 1/4" is sufficient. You will end up with a many pointed star. Next, using very light air pressure--just enough to get the pad rotating and very light hand pressure, walk your grinder into the area just lightly touching the "V" on the paint. You'll be surprised at how fast you'll literally RIP the paint off. Don't apply too much pressure, nor allow the pad to spin too fast. Your intent is to literally whisk the paint off and not grind / burnish the metal. You can also do this with the D/A, just by using the next higher diameter paper. The technique and product that you mentioned is an EXCELLENT way of getting into deep areas where the D/A simply won't do and your knuckles and fingers would suffer. Although the Scotch pads are real good and do a FAST job of removing paint, look for another product of Scotch's that I've used to make it even faster. Look for the Yellow and Green Rubber "Finger" disks. These are available in 1.5 and 3 inch diameters. The two styles are different "coarseness", but I can't remember which. They look like the type of brush you use to groom a horse or short haired animal, or simply these small diameter rubber tubes on a rubber base mounted on a shaft. I used up the box I had otherwise I'd give you a part number. These "finger" disks literally ERASE paint, rust, bondo, and just about anything except the metal (unless you really press down, but even with a lot of pressure you will only see a few sparks). I used these to remove the undercoating under the front fenders. You posted that you can't get enough air pressure to use your D/A or other air tools, and your idea of the Roto-Zip is excellent. I'll have to remember that one. Enrique

Regarding warping the metal with a D/A: I've been doing bodywork for about 25 years on and off and I have to admit that this is the first time I've heard this. Is this the beginning of an autobody urban legend? If not, then could someone elaborate? Metal will warp if too much heat is applied unevenly or if it's flexed / vibrated with a lot of force. While I CAN see this happening when using a large grinder, I can't imagine how you could generate enough heat with a D/A to warp the metal or oscillate the metal to do so. As far as which brand D/A to buy, it really depends on how much you are willing to spend, how much you plan to use it, and whether or not you are looking to repair it when it requires repairs. Harbor Freight has some excellent values on inexpensive tools. They also have some rotten deals on some CHEAP tools(*). If you are only planning on doing this one car this ONE time, go there. You'll probably pay anywhere from 15 to 25 dollars and when you are finished with the job you'll have definitely gotten your money's worth. If you are planning on making a career out of bodyworking, then check with Snap-On, Matco, or Mac tools. They all have very heavy duty D/A's that will also set you back a pretty penny. The big advantage is that you will have a heavy duty unit that won't need repairs for a LONG time (unless you abuse it) and will have a source for replacement parts / accessories. I'm not sure whether they manufacture their own or have Chicago Pneumatic or Milwaukie Tool manufacture for them, but they will have their backing on the item. Expect to pay upwards of 75, for just the basic tool (i.e. no pad, nor fittings) If you are someplace in the middle, check with Sears or Home Depot. Both of them have better than average tools and their prices will also be in the mid-range. Regardless of how much you want to spend, as that is mostly determined by your willingness to part with the cash, look at some of the following features as being the deciding factors more than the money. A D/A sander is a Dual Action Sander. It not only rotates the paper it also oscillates the rotation's center. The main purpose of this is to allow the pad to not rotate while still "jitter-bugging" the pad. Think of drawing little circles while drawing a large circle. Although you can find electric jitter-bug sanders, most guys buy an AIR driven D/A. A pneumatic D/A offers features that an electric one will not. (Most electric D/A's are used in wood working, and although you can use them on the car, their limitations outweigh their use.) Aside from being able to vary the air pressure at the compressor's regulator, D/A's usually have a feathering valve near the body of the D/A, on or near the handle. Although many D/A's come with a pad, look for a D/A that will allow you to change it, as you WILL find that it gets chewed up. Additionally, you may find that you want a beveled edge pad that allows you to sand into curves easier than a thin flat pad. Some D/A's only allow the "jitter-bug" rotation. Others will allow you to lock the shaft going to the pad so that only ONE rotation type is allowed. You will usually see a sliding tab that slides into a hole or straight edge on the shaft to lock it in place. You should also see a counter-weight there. This counter-weight is important as it minimizes the vibration from the eccentric rotation of the pad. Look at how much air pressure and cfm's the tool will require. More expensive tools will be better built and sealed and will have less "waste" air. This is important as the size of your compressor's pump and tank will REALLY limit what you can do. If a D/A requires 65 psi it tells you where you will be setting your pressure regulator. But if it requries 10 cfm at that pressure, you're not going to be using it with your typical home compressor. Most home compressors (under 5hp and 30 gal.) will NOT have enough air to power a D/A for long periods of time. The smaller your tank, the oftener that you will have to wait for the compressor to catch up with you. How long you wait will depend on how strong your compressor is. Conversely, the larger your tank, the stronger a compressor you will need to fill it quickly. Look at the location of the feathering valve. Is it located CONVENIENTLY and does it have an easy to move lever or knob? A "thumb-lever" will allow you to change pressure as you work which in turn affects the speed of rotation. A knob will require you to stop in order to adjust, and you won't be able to do it as it is running. Also look at the On/Off valve. Is it a nice long lever that allows you to grip the tool and by tightening your grip run the tool, or is it a short lever that will tire your hand out. Check where the exhaust air vent is. Since air tools require lubrication, if the exhaust is aimed downwards onto the pad, it will eventually oil up your pad and you'll be having to replace it more often. If on the other hand it vents to the side, you might find that you are oiling your work. This is a definite NO-NO for paint. The best design I've seen has the exhaust going back under the handle to exhaust via a small muffler near where the air inlet is. Lastly, check how easy it is to change pads. It's no fun having to disassemble a D/A just to change a pad. It should be as easy as locking the shaft and unscrewing the pad. That should help in finding the D/A you want to use. Sandpaper is your next consideration. This will be your next largest area of expense. The size of the paper will be determined by your D/A pad. Sanding paper grit will be determined by the job you are doing. You can get as coarse as 36 grit to as fine as 600 or 800, with the last two being rarely used. Most of your work will usually be done with 180, then 220 or 280, and finishing with 400. But these aren't hard-fast rules. It all depends on what you are doing, on to what kind of surface and what is below that surface. For extremely fast paint removal start with 80 grit, then 220 and finally 400. But these are MY preferences for paint on steel with no filler underneath. Well, I hope I gave you some answers. Feel free to ask more. Enrique

Sorry guys, I didn't notice the posts back in April. I must have been on the road. Tomo: Not sure on the 280's, but if you are referring to the detent spring that holds the door open at one of two positions, I think you'd find it much easier to remove the hinge to replace it. Not only will it be easier to work on the hinge, but you won't be trying to cram your hands and tools into the small space between door and pillar. Venom: The locking mechanism in the door is not adjustable. The 3 screws that hold it to the door are beveled and so are the holes that they fit into. There is only ONE position that it can go into. Lack of one screw may make it so that it isn't as strong as it should be, but it still will not be able to shift in position. Koke: Your first post wasn't clear, but from the second it seems that you are saying the door is too far "in" at the hinge side. Have you tried adjusting the hinge bolts at the door and pushing out on the door? As a last resort (in case the door is already adjusted to the limits of travel) use a pair of shims behind the hinge on the pillar side. If the door is generally in line with the fender (i.e. not having the top or the bottom further out / in than the other), then use shims in PAIRS (one behind each hinge between hinge and pillar). Shims are used when you've adjusted to the limits and you still need a bit more. HTH Enrique

I got it to run after loading the Access 2k Jet Engine. I'll upload it as a Zip file. The database is specifically for Roadsters and it has pictures on the forms, but apparently the writer; Matt Silvey did not leave the database open to be able to modify the forms / code / database. Then again that might be because of just having the Jet and not the full version. The db has 3 screens separate from the main, and the resolution must be fixed for 1024 x 768 as the forms exceed the screen size alloted, but that again may be due to it being on the Jet and not the full. Enrique OOPS. Upload manager says it's too big. 2.75Mb I'll e-mail it to those that have sent me an e-mail. Sorry, and thanks.

Zak: Thanks for the offer but Access databases cannot be opened with Excel and vice versa. Enrique

Excellent post Arne. I'd forgotten that little bit of info. That really limits where to look for the bad connection. E