EScanlon

I'd be interested in seeing some of the 70-78 Capri and Capri II. That's another car that I wouldn't mind owning one of. E

That's due to the case of Corona Beer you can see through the windshield! E

On LHD cars, the 71 had the bottle under the inspection lid on the Left side of the car. The pump was mounted on the bottle at the bottom. The washer nozzles were fed by clear tubing (probably yellowish with age by now) and white "T" connectors. The nozzles peeked out of the cowl ribs, but were attached to the top most part of the firewall with phillips screws. If they're not there, then they've been removed. You can get replacements, check with the vendors. In the meantime use YELLOW Rain-X on the outside of your glass. HTH Enrique

I wouldn't call it cheesey, it does the job enough to show intent, and if you were stopped and questioned, the number would match the car and the explanation would suffice (you hope). To make it a bit more "believable" if you don't have access to a pop rivet gun, but you DO have a Dremel, then bore out ("strip" the head of the screw) so that it becomes "tamper-proof". Simply use a cone bit to drill out the splines for the screwdriver. This makes it obvious that your intent isn't to be able to remove and replace the tag quickly, but rather to mount the replaced tag permanently. E

AFAIK MB Anderson does NOT do engine overhauls. Other than him, I can't say as I don't know. E

This is just a WAG, but have you checked the oil in the S.U.'s? Enrique

"Tar Paper" is a catch-all term for a soft substance in a "sheet" form with adhesive on one side. The other side may have a film, aluminum, plastic, felt, foam, or ???. Dynamat, Brown Bread, B-Quiet, and Q-Pads are just a few of the product names that I know of that are basically the same thing. Differences between them will (usually) consist of claims of durability, sound attenuation and .... In my experience, while there are a few differences (some have perforated aluminum foil, some have smooth, some have clear film, others have felt, or vinyl, or ...) for the most part what they are is a sticky substance that does not harden that can be applied to the sheet metal. The most common of these substances is plain old tar that has been pressed into sheets or rolls, and adhesive applied on one side, hence the term "tar paper". Tar paper is seen as more desireable than another product called Body Shutz. Body Shutz is another name for undercoating, which to some people is like saying poison. However, properly applied on properly prepared metal it actually does wonders for reducing sound, rust and wear on the underside of the car. Body Shutz is basically liquified tar in a liquid base that you "spray" onto the underside of the car. I wouldn't recommend shooting this on the inside of the vehicle as the liquid base (I believe it's mineral spirits) takes WEEKS to evaporate and will nauseate you. Check with your local Automotive Paint and Weatherstrip store. They should have something although the name may differ. Hope this helps Enrique

Quick and Dirty primer on Sound attenuation: From my days selling Ceiling Tile. STC: Sound Transmission Coefficient; The quantity of sound TRANSMITTED THROUGH the material itself. NRC: Noise Reduction Coefficient; The quantity of sound ABSORBED by the material itself. Although these numbers seem to be the inverse of each other, they aren't although they go hand in hand. The sheet metal of the Z transmitts sound quite readily, that's the reason they put the "tar paper" on the floor boards. The Tar Paper reduces the metal's ability to resonate harmonically and therefore the amount of sound that it will regenerate on the inside of the cabin from the sound waves received on the outside. Metal is a material with a very low NRC, and normally a very high STC, especially as sheet metal. The tar paper changes the STC by changing the metals ability to vibrate. Sometimes in addition to the tar paper, they added a fibrous material to reduce the sound that still resonated through the metal. An example of this is the firewall and the transmission tunnel. There they used a fibreglass type mat or "horse-hair" or "jute". This material has a very high NRC, and a very low STC. Additionally it also has very high temperature insulation properties. Your typical house insulation has these qualities as well. Reducing noise in the Z calls for reducing the metal harmonics that transmit sound INTO the cabin from outside. Typically a tar paper, or bituminous, or "soft" material is adhered to the metal. The key being that it is ADHERED to the metal. This reduces the high frequency vibrations that go through sheet metal very readily. If you then add a layer of high NRC material, such as carpet, insulation, or some other "fluffy" type material (i.e. with lots of air space between the strands) it will help reduce the mid and upper low frequencies. By placing the STC and increasing the NRC of the various panels of the car, you'll do a good job of reducing the noise. If you target those specific areas which are known noise producers (engine, transmission, rear end) with insulation specifically geared for the sound they generate, you'll really reduce the sound. My car has the "tar paper" all the way from the cowl bucket, down accross the firewall from side to side, across the floor pans and the transmission tunnel all the way to the tail-light area. The only part of the "floor" that isn't covered, is the tool box lids and the spare tire well. The insides of the tool boxes are covered as well as the bottom of the particle board spare tire cover. Additionally, I added some inside the doors themselves and the inner rear fenders (inside of the outside metal), the inner metal of the hatch and the rocker panels and doglegs under the quarter windows. The firewall and the transmission tunnel are the only areas where I used a fibrous insulation, and that was the original "jute" insulation. However, if I had to replace it, I would opt for a high temp insulation similar to what gets used in insulating stoves. This tends to be stiffer and denser than standard house insulation. This makes it easier to cut and to glue in place. I've had various people ride in my car and they all comment as to how quiet it is. I can listen to the original radio with mono sound and not need an amplifier. Additionally, my wife and I can converse with or without the windows being open. For What It's Worth Enrique

The Qtr. Window Seal is glued to the Qtr. Window Frame with the "taller" leg towards the outside THEN it gets compressed when fitted to the body. Additional Sealant is normally NOT required when mounting the window on the body. Be aware that it is a b!t¢h to compress the gasket AND get the screws started while making sure the gasket doesn't slip off the metal frame. For that reason, use a good high-strength adhesive (3M Weatherstrip Adhesive in Black comes to mind) follow the directions carefully (i.e. clean metal and gasket well, apply one coat to each, allow to dry and then re-apply a SMALL amount for final fitting, tape and let sit for 24 hours), BEFORE you start trying to mount the windows to the car. 2¢ Enrique

No it isn't. Your point was about exhuming putrified 7 month old dead threads without your explicit permission....oops....with no logical (to you) reason. Then you went on to try to hijack the thread onto truly meaningless discussions of a rare event-themed product that is only available on a small regional basis and therefore of interest to a very SMALL group of people. Definitely in the NON-"earth shattering news to anyone in the western hemisphere." And whether or not someone asked where to buy Brasso is NOT a requirement for adding to a thread. If it were, then a LOT of posting would not be made. Much of the posting are replies to UN-ASKED questions, which pertain to features, repairs, or other subjects that have been discussed in a myriad of forms. There are times when the unsolicited post gives rise to some of the most interesting posts on this site. Get off your high horse Carl. This isn't your site to moderate, nor is it a requirement that people get your permission to post, nor to add to ANY posting, regardless of it's age. Additionally, based on the responses to the availability of Brasso at a major retailer, it's apparent that there was some interest to other people other than "morons". So don't try to BS everyone by saying it's about Wal-Mart nor it's business, it isn't. Enrique

Excellent Job, Ed! The only problem I've found with the lights looking so bright, is that at times they can fool me and make me think I've left the lights on (no kidding!). Alfa, how did yours turn out? E

240Z Fuse Box

The first item is the Light Housing light source for the 4-Way Flasher Switch (Pull/Push Style) and the Cigar Lighter. The "odd" light bulb socket goes in there, and lights / dims with the normal dash illumination. The light to the 4-Way Flasher and the Cigar Lighter Housing is "sent" there via a Fiber Optic Cable. The FOC goes THROUGH the 4-Way Flasher STEM and then into the head of the Push/Pull Knob, on the Cigar Lighter it exits at a small hood that is attached to the side of the Cigar Lighter Body. It's a very nice subdued light effect. As far as the second item, that is a doozy. It looks as though it's coming from a relay or a small circuit box. The White Red and the other ?White/White? wire aren't one of the color codes used for that thin a wire. The White/Red wire they use tends to be heavier gage. This almost looks like a "Light On" Warning Buzzer but don't take that as what it is, just a WAG. Enrique

The main reason I belong for AAA is that with ONE phone call (usually) someone's coming, at any time of the day and anywhere (AAA+) with the capability to get you started, tire changed, gas brought, and if necessary a tow. Could I get a friend? Maybe, a good friend would say NO if it weren't possible, and I'd undestand. With AAA+ I don't have to impose upon them for something that might have been preventable. (If you run out of gas, unless it's for a mechanical malfunction, that's just dumb or extremely forgetful.) But the most important one is definitely the tow. I would rather camp out in the Z than leave it, even if it was for help. In some parts of the country, the Z, for it's uniqueness and rarity, if found on the side of the road becomes a highly sought target. You might check with your insurance regarding the tow provision. An old policy of mine did pay for the tow.....after you mailed it in. AAA, just does it for the once a year due. But the Onstar.... now there's a thought. What about a Z with one of those? Enrique

Here's a couple of articles that might be of help: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15176 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15177 Hopefully it will make it easy to finish. Enrique

V12: Excellent post. Wish people would read and understand the message you contained therein. Enrique

IF: Ziebart gets applied AT the time of first sale from the manufacturer's dealer and IF: Any damage to the vehicle gets repaired and then inspected afterwards by a Ziebart shop for compliance with their warranty and IF: Proper care of the vehicle such as under-carriage spray / slush damage is attended to at least periodically THEN You will find that Ziebart works great. However, any one of the above items can / may / will be the cause of the problems that a Ziebart job fails from. I've seen vehicles 15+ years after being Ziebarted that have been in great condition, and I've seen them fail at less than 12. Too much regarding rust protection involves where and how the car is driven to assign it all to one item. So, answering your original question. Ziebart is a good preventative agent, it is not a total protection agent, nor is it an absolute protection agent. A car that has been treated with it, has less vulnerability to the rust monster than other vehicles without any type of protection. That the car has been treated works in your favor. Now as far as clues that you have rust? They're the same with or without the Ziebart. Look at Front Fender Rear Doglegs, Battery Area, Floor Pans, Rear Fender Front Doglegs and Lips. Check for mysterious paint bubbling or lifting. Overlapping metal areas are very prone to wearing through to the metal. Follow my drift? Enrique

Hey, anyway you can get it in without damaging the car and that it works afterward, and that you are comfortable doing, works for me. The procedure you mention (putting the Z sideways), says you have the car on a rotisserie. Most people take the car off the rotisserie before they start installing wipers and wiring. Now that you have the wiper mechanism and motor in, BEFORE you put on your wipers, first give it a test. Make sure that the wiper motor has PARKED and is in the proper position for the wipers. It has happened before that by attaching the wiper linkage to the motor AFTER it's installed on the car that it gets installed 180° off, which means that your wipers will first wipe accross your cowl and onto your hood before they come back and do it again....never wiping the windshield. 2¢ Enrique

That's because it isn't necessary to do so. Enrique

Here's a link to Harbor Freight Tools, and the SIPHON SPRAY BLOW GUN #37346, which was only 3-4 bucks, IIRC. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=37346&CategoryName=null&SubCategoryName=null There really isn't too much to using this. You put the end of the hose into the can of POR, and the other end attaches to the end of the blow gun, then just point and spray. Beandip came up with a heavy fishing weight to attach to the end of the hose to ensure that it didn't slip out of the can, which made for less "oops" factor. There's no need to thin the POR as you would with standard spray equipment, (which by the way does NOT work satisfactorily, i.e. you spend 4 times the time, twice the money and you still don't get good coverage inside areas you can't see directly.) There really is NO limitation to how far inside a cavity you could spray the POR, other than lack of visibility and air pressure. Although you can expect a bit of "reach" past corners into areas you can't see directly, don't expect to cover them well. This method works best for "line-of-sight" surfaces. If you were to use "Ziebart" type nozzles to direct the spray back and to the sides, it would be perfect. Clean up is a cinch. Just throw away the PVC hose as it is impossible to really clean it and lacquer thinner which normally cuts uncured POR will dissolve the PVC and it's cheap to replace. The nozzle tip just takes a couple of dips into lacquer thinner and it's clean. Be forewarned though, be absolutely sure to wear protective breathing apparatus, not just a dust mask, spray outdoors preferably and have a fan blowing the fumes away. POR FUMES WILL MAKE YOU SICK!!! Voice of experience here. If you do not have adequate ventilation AND a good paint spray mask AND a means to evacuate the fumes that you will be really generating with this method, you WILL get dizzy spells, nausea, and major headaches. Lastly, be sure to have a lacquer thinner dampened rag on hand. That will clean the POR from areas that you did NOT want treated, although it still sets rock hard later. Remember to make sure you clean off any you get on your skin. $2 (This one is a GOOD tip.) Enrique

I think the proper penance should be that he buy ANOTHER shirt, one that ONLY gets used on a Z. Let this one that has been rendered .... not unworthy, but definitely .... "tainted" be used for those mundane chores where it might be possible to get dirty. i.e. changing oil, greasing bearings, waxing the ZX..... Enrique

See if these help. Enrique

During my writing my previous post to this thread the following was posted on the site. At the time I found it it only had the first response to the original post. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=127159#post127159 Aussie260Z and Alex 240Z; would you two mind answering this guys questions? And be sure to let him know that the problem more than likely begins in the Hazard Switch, which, if he'd done a search in the first place, he'd have his answer by now instead of dealing with a whole new batch of issues. Or you can spend the next few hours / days transcribing all of the posts to previous discussions of the same issue. Enrique

I've purposely postponed my bit of absurd nonsense to this diarrheal diatribe in order to calm down....... BOOO HOOOO HOOOOO :sick: :stupid: Someone got told to do a basic search to find the information he requests....BOO HOOO HOOO!!!! If he just arrived on the site, a SEARCH is what brought him here in the first place. So now he expects to be able to just jump in in the middle of everything and ask a question and have EVERYONE stop what they're doing and attend to HIS problem. If he's an old member then he knows that that's what gets posted to questions that, for those of us who do peruse this site on a frequent basis, have been answered a myriad of times before. Whether he's a new or old member....what a bunch of whinny egotistical selfish spine-less crap that is. Those who are accustomed to instant gratification by those who deem to give it, EXPECT the REST of the world to succumb to their selfish needs. "STOP....I need for you to do something...for ME." is their mantra. And they get petulant and offended if you don't attend to THEIR needs in short order. You can't deny their wish, and anything less than fulfilling their wish is considered.......RUDE / OFFENSIVE / INSULTING / WRONG. Get a grip on reality. Only in your solipsistic view of the world, are the rest of us here to please your whinny commands. If you want HELP, search first, you might be inundated with information and then realize why just posting your request is such a bother to the rest of us. If you don't find something, and do try, don't just gloss over the titles or the poster and decide....screw it, I'll just ask someone else to do the work for me, THEN post your question. ESPECIALLY if you are asking for help. If you're sharing an opinion, an incident, something you've developed, etc, then by all means find the correct forum and POST IT. There's a lot out there and no one person on this site can claim to know it all. (And besides, it really IS annoying to those of us that do! ) If you find an article that SEEMS to address the problem you are having, but it doesn't answer your question, then by all means ADD to that post and ask your question. I'll guarantee that you will get a FASTER and more MEANINGFUL reply that will, additionally, BE in a similar theme post, and may have all the references right there to answer any subsequent questions. Posting a new post means that you will have to EXPLAIN the situation in such a manner that the rest of us, who aren't standing behind you, (or holding your fat a$$ up) can understand what it is you are doing, on WHAT kind of car, and WHY you need / want / must do it. But it SHOULD have been researched first, or you run the risk of having some very innovative, ridiculous and off the wall comments being thrown your way (Where can I find a cheap Air Dam?) or being told to SEARCH the archives! There are excellent posts on this site. (Fix for Slow Wipers) is an example of a subject having been revisited a couple of times with new information being added. Regardint the (Boobs!) thread..... This site is about automobiles, specifically the Datsun Z series of automobiles. Automobiles, for the most part, tend to be something that MEN find as an interest. Men, for the most part, like women. Women, for the most part, have boobs. Now, if you don't share an interest in boobs, then you aren't REQUIRED to view the thread. If you don't share an interest for women, you aren't required to associate with them. It's not even a requirement that you be MALE to be on this site, the ONLY requirement is that you be interested in the Datsun Z. Asking for the selection available to you be limited to only those pre-sanitized and pre-approved and stamped with some bogus seal of approval is again.....MORONIC. No one is forcing anything on you, be responsible for your own self TO your own self and don't go where whatever is there might offend you. That slimy drool of a thought that says we must all behave to satisfy your paranoical diseased mind is thought only by you. No one on this earth is here to please YOU, they're here only to please THEMSELVES. If they happen to please you in the process, consider it a gift. The stupid general consensus that dictates we must all behave in such a manner that we don't offend our sensitive brethren fails to note that we can't PLEASE them either. Not only do they expect the rest of the world to go hunt down, prepare, cook, serve, cut into small pieces and feed them the meat, they also want us to pre-digest it and then vomit it into their gullet so all they have to do is sh!t? And then bitch that they didn't like the taste or got diarrhea???? Get a grip on life or get out. There are some posters who can be found to peruse this site more often than others. Yes, that's true. It's a fact of life that others don't share all the same interests nor obligations as you. They can allocate their time as THEY see fit, not you. If you don't like that.....TOUGH. Find a different mix of interests that will then allow you to do the same, or whatever it takes, but the bottom line is Lump it or Love it. My "turd" onto this pile of dung. Enrique