EScanlon

The earliest Hazard Switches were on the dash, while the Rear Window Heater Control was rearmost on the center console. If you are referring to the "extra" square hole to the right of the hole where the RW Heater Switch goes, that one is NOT for the Hazards but to the directional (i.e. one side) light switches required in Japan (and also some other part of the world including Washington State) which illuminate ONE side of the vehicle via small bulbs in the front and rear light housings. Normally, US vehicles had this hole closed off with a square blank plug. HTH E PS: Heres a picture of my center console with a red flip switch (for my fog lamps). http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2596&title=center-console&cat=500

Passenger Kick Panel is the MAIN connection point for (1) Engine Harness, (2) Dash Harness and (1) Rear Harness. Look up high on the kick panel and you should see the entry point for the engine harness through the firewall. No, you don't normally have to remove the dash. FWIW E

Actually the biggest problem with blasting with soda is that you have to be sure to neutralize and remove the film it leaves behind, NOT that it could get into something (it is to an extent water soluble). Blasting with Soda wouldn't require you to remove the tires from the rims either unless you're intent on getting paint on the "under" side of the rim (the part inside the tire). I'm of the opinion that if you choose to do two colors, the center hub and all the spokes as well as a portion of the rim, should be done in one color, the balance of the rim in a contrast tone, a complementary hue or a slightly different shade than the rest of the wheel. You could do satin silver (with a degree of "chrome-ish" shine) and follow up with the edge of the rim in a bright polished finish look. There are a couple lines of spray can paint that will do a very nice job of emulating chrome and anodized colors if that trips your trigger. My earlier posts allude to the problem of properly masking all those spokes from the rim (and hub) if you were to paint the spokes a different color than the rim (and hub). FWIW E

One thing we're all overlooking is that GOOD wire wheels ARE adjustable to round and to true track. Cheaper wheels are not. In the case of powdercoating, chroming and other full coat applications you'd be well off to have the rims checked for true-ness before you apply the coating. No sense in painting a wheel that will cause your car to wobble, especially if you cannot true it later. 2¢ E

The color combinations that Willoughby mentions would be extremely difficult to effect on wire-wheels that are already assembled. I'm thinking that those triple color combinations are done at the wheel factory from components that are already color coated. Without disassembling the wheels completely, to mask each and every spoke, and it's receiving nut as well as the rim itself would be a task even a compulsive anal retentive would abhor. To do this twice (for 3 colors) would be a masochistic nirvana... and still a major undertaking for 4 wheels (+ Spare?). Your best bet is to paint them in one color, with maybe a color accent on the rim. Have them media blasted to remove the paint; paint stripper wouldnot be a good recommendation as it would make a huge mess and still leave areas untouched as well as the residue which would affect the final paint. Then, either have them powder coated (you'll have to remove the tires obviously) or use a good epoxy or hard finish paint. Colors? Up to you. 2¢ E

If the car is running, and it doesn't HAVE to have any repairs done IMMEDIATELY.... DRIVE IT FOR NOW. If it does need some immediate repairs, find the best mechanic you can and effect those repairs ... FOR NOW. You can tackle doing them yourself LATER, then DRIVE THE CAR FOR NOW. You're probably not going to get much driving done until the spring since you're in the prime Snow Dump region of the country, but that's when you take it out and TAKE NOTE of things you do/don't like and what "feels" weird etc. Then, with those notes of observations, repair/replace those items that are Safety and/or Mechanical in nature first. Gauge their importance properly. While the brakes may squeal, if you don't have seat belts functioning properly, you're more likely to get a ticket for not having the belts than for the brakes squealing. However, if the brakes are scoring the rotors/drums, then you really need the brakes done before they cause even more repairs/ replacements. Appearance items can be done bit by bit, but keep in mind that a pretty car in the boneyard.... is stupidity at it's maximum. Although those of us who peruse the boneyards love to find them.... they're great sources of upgrade parts. Finally after ensuring the mechanical systems of the car are all functioning properly, and you've verified all safety items, then progress to beautifying your car as you see fit. Just remember that one man's "mild modification" is another man's "molestation" to use the vernacular preferred by some. But it is YOUR car, do what it takes to make you proud of it... and DRIVE IT. FWIW E

Yikes, your signature says it best.... 79 280ZX.... What I described is for a 240. Not having disassembled one in the last 20 years, I don't recall well enough to speak on the 280ZX. Sorry E

Just saw the video Black Gold Man posted, and the SS we have is different in that it isn't a simple notch we have to fit into, we actually have a groove with "flaps" on both sides of the groove. I remind you to NOT put in the center or corner pieces until aftewards as you do need Ssome flexibility in the rubber. Wish the video had shown the "Rope" method. E

I have installed a few, WITH the trim in place before trying to install the gasket/windshield. I was shown to do it this way back in the 80's by an installer who did the local Nissan (and ex-Datsun) dealerships. He did it this way to save time on the piecemeal jobs (i.e. $ per job and not per hour). The FSM (Factory Shop Manual) says to mount the trim AFTER installing the windshield and to use sealant between gasket and body. However, don't forget that the FSM arse-umes you have a parts department nearby with replacement trim and windshield gasket AND a windshield in stock just in case... just in case. The sealant idea isn't off-kilter, but it IS messy. For that reason some folks seal the windshield to the rubber gasket and only later seal the rubber gasket to the body. It IS harder to seal with the SS trim in place, but it CAN be done. There are those who would argue that the FSM describes the "best" method, and point out that they spent hours very VERY carefully inserting the SS trim onto the gasket. I'm sure it's possible, but with the help of a friend (which you'll need with or without the SS trim in place), I can have the whole job finished in slightly more time than just inserting the windshield. BRIEF INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Install the upper corner and center pieces AFTER the windshield / Gasket / Trim are on the car. Just be very careful in lifting the thin edge of material. The easiest method is to first mount the gasket on the windshield, taking your time to ensure that the upper two corners are well seated. Then spread the edges of the trim gap and slowly begin flipping the rubber up and over the gasket. You do NOT want to try sliding it in, as it can catch in the groove and that SS trim is a LOT sharper than it appears to be. It WILL cut your rubber. Once the rubber and SS trim are in place, wrap your rope cord around the windshield and then place it on the body and by pulling the cord you ease the inner edge of the rubber gasket onto the windshield frame. I find it much easier to work without the dash in place as then I can put my hands on both sides of the glass and help move/shove it into proper place so I can pull straight in or up on the cord as needed to pull the lip of rubber over the sheet metal. Whether you start up top or bottom becomes a matter of preference, I personally prefer to finish at the top center. If your dash is in place, start your cord's center up by the rear view mirror and the "ends" of the cord down by the center of the defrost vents. This is because the dash WILL be in the way to make the last "edge" of rubber flip properly and easily without tearing it. The rope method has been discussed in other threads, as well as this topic. Get a good lubricant and use it LIBERALLY on both the rope and the gasket. I use a silicone spray. FWIW E

Those tabs are probably gone, seeing as he mentioned "new floorboards". Your best bet will be to use snaps that you install onto the carpet and screw (yes, poke a hole) to the floor. If you take care, you can use some form of undercoating protection and primer to minimize the electrolysis from dissimilar metals and the exposure to the ground moisture. HTH E

Especialy once you get an insurance quote.... 16 yr. old male + Z (Sports Car) = BIG BUCKS / year And once he gets his first ticket (not IF, WHEN) .... BOOOM PAYMENT INCREASE! You may be much better off restoring that car for 4 years and then letting him drive it, it won't be CHEAP then, just CHEAPER. FWIW E

Are you sure that tach is wrong? I recall you recently buying a 3 wire tach that you said was wrong for your car. If the 3 wire is incorrect, THIS tach is the 4 wire tach which is the only other one used for the 240. As far as the Speedo, I've seen that extra electronic unit on the back of the speedo on loose speedos but have no idea what circuit it applies to. I'll be keeping an eye on this post hoping someone will offer a possible solution. E

Admin Note: Threads merged for clarity of information. E

Those were transport lockdown hooks. Used to chain the car down in the sea transport from Japan. While they may be strong enough to hold the car, I don't know that I'd recommend them being used to TOW the vehicle. As far as the rental dolly, why would you have to rent it for more than one day if you only need to move the car once (presumably)? See about renting the dolly one way, use it, drop it off, end of contract. FWIW E

emphasis mineWhy would Mrs. Chin be entitled to ANY of the gain? E

And just a note to try to keep you guys sane, unless your monitor driver and monitor have been color-calibrated with some of the expensive photograph hobby software out there, there's a good probability that the colors you're comparing to each other are WAY OFF what the ACTUAL color is. (This presumes of course, that you're using a HIGH end camera with color-calibrated RAW image handling to take the original pictures.) Otherwise the eye on site trumps any picture comparison on the computer. E

Merged duplicate thread into one. For users, duplicate posts in differernt forums don't necessarily provide better answers, and if you look above, you can read two different responses being initiated. Enrique Scanlon Moderator

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You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?156-S30-Door-Window-Problems-and-Troubleshooting-Procedures

There's the problem.... REMOVE your OEM Voltage Regulator and replace it with the Voltage Regulator Adapter that Arne used to make, and is now available from MSA. Without this you've not completed the circuitry that you changed to with the internally reg. alt. FWIW E

SEM 15013 Landau Black.... it matches the rest of the interiors satin black surfaces. It will spray well over Vinyl which your finishing piece should have a thin layer of. E

That White wire with the spiral Blue Stripe, where is that connected FROM and TO? Since it's bundled with the wires going to the V/R, then presumably (and apparently from the black shrink? tape with yellow lettering) it's connected to the other side of the connector bundle, which may be where your missing 6th wire is. But, checking with my wiring diagram, I do NOT find that White/Blue #4 wire in the schematic. Nor the White/Red #1 at the V/R (just to the Alternator). This may be one of the early 70 wiring idiosyncracies not seen in later models, but I can't say for sure. All that being said, I would check if a new / different Regulator would be the ticket. E

This is strictly for bleeding, not for changiing the fluid which is what the OP was asking. E

Yes Leon, there IS a difference. Just before releasing the 260 in the US, the tachs were replaced with the 3 wire variety, but at what point/date is the hard one to pinpoint. The only sure way I know is to look at the back of your tach to see if it does indeed have the LOOP held down by the sensor or not. I know there are pictures that show it, but don't know where they are right off the bat. E

Black Dragon's take on knowledgeable sales people may irk some, but having worked for a friend of mine handling his on-line aftermarket auto parts website, I can see why Black Dragon takes that attitude. Just about EVERY customer wanted to kabosh about how unique, exemplary, valuable, rare, their vehicle; was while pumping me for information as to the LEAST amount of items they needed in order to fulfill their objective which was to have the most perfectly restored vehicle while having spent the least on that restoration. And then they'd ask for discounts based on the total amount of the order, whether it was on the shipping, or expedited shipping, or can you throw in a free something.... I was getting paid commission, so it didn't hurt to kabosh a bit, but when the calls would come in one after the other, the LAST thing I wanted to do was reminisce with you for long over a $9.95 item that would have paid me little over 50¢, especially when I had the call-waiting beep in my ear telling me there were other calls coming in. Sometimes they'd forget that the basic concept of the web-site was to make money. FWIW E