EScanlon

The basic rule of thumb, if my account is compromised, I'll CALL and get someone on a phone number that I selected and not on a URL on a message that they sent in the e-mail. This is something that's called Phishing. They tease you with a message that for all simple visual checks appears legitimate, even to the extent that the additional "legal" information down below will take you to the right place, BUT the account verification one takes you elsewhere. If you hover your mouse pointer over the link, and look in the status bar, you'll note that the destination listed is NOT what the e-mail says. And beware, because I've even seen some that are suspiciously close www.e-bay.com instead of www.ebay.com. The phishers have even taken on bank accounts, book clubs, and others. I've even received "account verification" on bank accounts that I closed over 10 years ago. The bottom line is as everyone else has pointed out, don't assume that the mail message is legit. If you have doubts CALL your institution to check. This way YOU choose the method of contact and not have it spoon fed (with poison). Enrique

I discovered the use of this box by just plain old trial and error. I was disassembling the whole motor / gear box etc to try to cure the slow wiper problem, and had started on the motor. I removed this part somewhat carelessly and discovered that it didn't go far or where I needed it to. I put it back on, but inadvertently in the wrong location. After I replaced the motor and linkages back, my wipers parked weird (can't recall how) so in reviewing what I did, I recalled this part. Took the motor out, and allowed the wires to "return" the cap to it's proper position and tightened down. That turned out (sheerly by luck) to be the proper place, so I put a (don't mess with) tag on it in my head. Wish I could help you more. You might look at the back of the picture Carl put up, and note the "notch" and the "lines" around the circumference. I'm not sure, but they may have a lot to do with locating the park position. Enrique

Here's a link on the wipers and park position: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14432&page=1&pp=15&highlight=wiper I also recall another one that discusses that you should actuate your wiper motors BEFORE you put on the wiper arms, specifically to avoid the cowl wipe/scratch movement. Found it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2487&highlight=wiper Enrique

On the back of the gear housing (where piece #1 on Carl's pic connects to the shaft), there is a pie tin looking cup, held in place with a 2-3 screws. This cap, when loosened, determines the PARK position of the wipers. Since your wipers are moving through the WHOLE range of the windshield, but "parking" in the middle, it's that the parking position is not set right. Additionally, that spring that Carl refers to, I believe that it "triggers" the mechanism at even short distances. That is, when you "flick" the wiper, a movement of x inches is enough for the wiper to realize it must cycle through completely to park. You made a good point in identifying that your wipers DO in fact go to bottom and top, because if you had just moved the wiper arms onto new positions on the wiper shafts, you would have wiped half your cowl. 2¢ Enrique

The Fiberglass Resin, BY ITSELF, is not as strong as the JB Weld. The F. Resin is supposed to be used to impregnate fiberglass cloth or mat. It is the combination of the two that makes for it's strength. To cut up a bunch of little fibers to stick into the holes, I think would be more hazzle than the benefit derived. Additionally, the amount of mixed resin you'll use for BOTH sugar scoops would probably be less than a tablespoon or two. The amount of catalyzer required for such an amount would be LESS than a drop (if memory is correct). If you add more, you'll "cook" it much faster and hotter than is good for it and you might crystalize the resin. JB Weld on the other hand, uses equal parts of each of it's two parts. Making spot mixes much easier to do than with fiberglass. Additionally, it hardens to a substance that CAN be drilled and tapped with ease, whereas it is really tricky to tap fiberglass resin. Last major difference, is that catalyzed fiberglass resin can be very runny, in the vicinity of maple syrup or more fluid. This makes it critical that you keep your workpiece positioned to NOT let the resin flow out. JB Weld on the other hand ends up being the consistency of toothpaste or thereabouts and will hold a vertical edge much better. For the price of $5 you can usually find it in the hardware section, making it much cheaper than fiberglass. 2¢ Enrique

Those Hardened Steel Extractors will not work on your Fibreglass imbedded Bolts. Not only will the bolt NOT screw out (it's imbedded, and not screwed in) but by the time you drill out enough of the center to insert the extractor you might as well drill out the bolt. You must do as Ed said, drill out the old and imbed with epoxy, although I prefer the JB Weld. Enrique

Besides, don't forget that you've already used up your Mulligan on snow driving, or have you forgotten the incident last year with the girlfriend sideswiping your car. If you do it again, you go from having had your Mulligan to being a bonehead. :stupid: Enrique

Just remember to NOT use the Anti-Fog Rain-X for the inside of the windows. That stuff is like wiping motor oil mixed with super glue to your glass. It will NOT come off, and you can't get it to be completely clear. Enrique

Tomy; Is this your idea of a helpful response? A half baked idea without details and only possible and untried methods that end with a question? If so, please refrain from helping, or better yet, go try it out on YOUR car and tell us how it worked. Half baked solutions only help to muddle the discussion and split it off into a myriad of irrelevant points that have nothing to do with the original intent. I recall a saying one of my teachers had above the chalkboard: It is better to be silent and be considered a fool, than to open one's mouth ane remove all doubt. I'm donning my flame suit. Enrique

With as many cars out there that have incredibly obvious swirl marks in the paint job marring an otherwise nice shine, I'm not sure I would want that crap on my windshield distorting things. If you want to do this, then use Rain-X which SHEETS the water off and you don't have to use your wipers as much or as often. Trust me, with all the oil, rubber grime and other misted crap that gets on your windshield, WAX is definitely NOT what you want to do. Enrique

No Worries! I laughed, and I hope you did too! Merry Thanks Giving

Ok, from that "good" idle, accelerate. Give it a good "hammer down" style acceleration and tell us what she's doing. My bet, (Vacuum Advance Plate still shot) you get backfiring, stumbling and a VERY ROUGH and seemingly intermittent acceleration. Then when you release the gas, it seems to sputter, cough and not want to run for a few seconds before it "miraculously" seems to settle out. That the plugs are fouling may or may not be related to this. Trust me, if you keep adjusting EVERYTHING ELSE before you fix THIS problem, you're going to have another $500 OBO E-Bay Project Car Auction with a tagline that says "Several years ago, I had problems with this car and thereafter I couldn't get it to run at all. Makes a good project for someone who has a lot of knowledge on Z's...." but you will add "or is willing to listen to the people at the recognized source of Z information on the net that kept telling me NOT to muck everything else up while fixing ONE problem." Sorry to be blunt, but I've seen this song and dance played out to the same disastrous end too many times to want to see it again. Check the vacuum advance, then check the timing, then check...... notice nobody has said go muck with the richness of the mixture to try to get it to run. The car is currently in a RUNNING state, although out of proper adjustment. i.e. the engine starts, and continues to run, although it can't hold a smooth idle nor accelerate properly. That says it IS getting AIR and FUEL and SPARK (the engine IS running). You've already eliminated compression, so the next thing is TIMING i.e. FINE adjustment. You can eliminate the fouled plugs later AFTER it's running smoothly. 2¢ Enrique

Actually Daniel, without the passive (i.e. NOT generated) magnetic force of the magnets, you couldn't get an electric motor to run. Enrique

Actually, yes, but have to get Beandip to finish selecting what he needs for his car and then I just picked up another Z that may need some parts and then they'll go up for sale. In the meantime, I'm collecting as many $20 Bills I can get in hopes that Zhead240's wife will buy them for $50 Best Offer. EDIT MINE Ok, I can understand the rolleyes cause I can't for the life of me remember this one. Enrique

Will: Didn't mean to imply that YOU were being rude or harsh, but that the description was too harsh to make the subtle point you were making. I agree, if someone wants to sell a $100 bill for $200 OBO, I might just offer $10, although I know someone will beat me. Then again, if the contract is binding, as it is on e-Bay (supposedly), I'll be the winner. If it isn't, then I havent LOST anything, but I did stand a CHANCE to gain. Sometimes that's all you really want. After all, who other than Z owners, would buy something for a price, invest a chunk of change in it and then sell it for less than what' he wants for it...... ? We basically agree on our methods. Enrique

Good Idea Stephen! Hmm, and since it's "All In The Family", it could even be considered....O.E.M.. I'll have to check the bonyard. Enrique

You're right Carl, I meant in an uncontested situation. If I know that I'm the ONLY person interested in a car, and the guy is asking 2300, why would I give him 2500. In the situation you mentioned, the other neighbors offer was higher than yours and therefore "better". Are you still looking for a 5 and Dime? Enrique

Exactlly. This is a common misnomer, just as with the Road Runner and the Judge. Many people would go out and buy the decals and call their car one of those. Remember the old Trans-Am and Firebirds with the decals? I recall one guy who went out and bought the Firebird decals and put them on his Trans-Am thinking that he was "increasing" it's value. Usually, people did the reverse, they'd buy the Trans-Am set and put it on their Firebird and hope that people would think it was a Trans-Am. Besides, if it were a REAL Aircraft Edition, it would have the V-Style 2 Wing Spoiler on the back, reminiscent of the F-16 (or 18, or 15 or..) V-Tail. Enrique

I bought some of this, both in the shiny and the matte, and tried to use it to restore the choke console on my Series I console. Alas, it didn't live up to my expectations, possibly because I was using such a thin stripe of it. It is an excellent way of getting a nice chrome shine, but in my opinion it is too delicate for long term use on this part without some sort of protective shield on it. If you're building a static display item, then it will probably look and last, but if you use your car at all, I would expect the first road-trip would shred it. I'd like to propose something a little bit different that I'm going to look into. For those of you who are into R/C or L/C airplanes, you're familiar with a product called Mono-Kote. For everyone else: This is a tough plastic film, with adhesive on the back that has exceptional shine and color. It is applied onto the wings and fuselage to provide a very lightweight but somewhat strong (it CAN be punctured and shredded) "skin" on the airplane. This product has become available in a CHROME finish. My thoughts were to buy a roll of the Mono-Kote in Bright Chrome, cut appropriate widths and lengths from that roll and then apply onto the blue vinyl strip with the small detail iron that gets used to do stripes and other fillet cuts with the same material. The Mono-Kote does do a small amount of shrinkage, so form fitting it to the existing plastic would only be a matter of careful skill. Hopefully (and I haven't yet seen a roll) the "chrome" on the foil would be good enough and bright enough to "duplicate" the trim. 2¢ Enrique

With 3m worth of cable (118 1/8") you could get that almost to directly behind the driver's seat in the tool box area. Is that where the release handle is? I wonder if using a gas door cable from a minivan would allow you to put it near the hood one, or down on the floor like the newer gas doors. Enrique

EDIT DELETE How do you delete a post?

Although I agree with what you are saying, I think that it is a somewhat "harsh" way of explaining it. I think what he's saying is "I really want 7500 for it, but if you don't think it's worth 7500 then offer what you think it's worth to you and that offer that coimes CLOSEST to what I want, 7500 is what will get the car." I don't think he's thrown everything out the window, he still retains control of whether or not he sells the car. To think that a seller would negotiate DOWN an amount HIGHER than what they've already stated, or that a buyer would so willingly give MORE than what the seller is asking is ludicrous and naive. Ask your wife if she's willing to pay $1000 for a pair of jeans just because she could afford to pay that amount (WITHOUT some other "value" added i.e. designer label, custom tailored, uniqueness). That is, a plain old pair of jeans that everyone else would pay $25.00 for you're going to pay $1000. I don't think so, and if she says she would.....I have a couple of items I'd like to sell her. 2¢ (which she can give me a dollar for) Enrique

I'm glad you posted again, as the specific part that goes bad is UNDER that plate with the counter weights and springs. The counter weights and springs are the CENTRIFUGAL advance mechanism. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong.) This is what allows the mechanism to advance the timing of the distributor to allow for a given amount of timing advance as the engine is accelerating hard. Below that plate lies a little plastic plate that has a few ball bearings held in place in plastic cups. That little plastic plate is what allows both the centrifugal and the vacuum solenoid to rotate and return SMOOTHLY. When the ball bearings or the plastic plate go kablooey, both plates function erratically. i.e. they "lurch" forward and back. This is what gives you that erratic sometimes ok, sometimes not ignition. That plate falls apart after so many years, and so many Z's have had that problem that it's considered a typical problem. I don't know that you can repair it. They ARE still available, in my case my mechanic was able to obtain one readily and replaced it. I believe he said they were in the mid $20's. At this point, the disassembly of the distributor, I admit that I am getting out of my level of knowledge. Bambikiller, Beandip, 2ManyZ's, 1 Bravo 6, and Zedrally and others (omission by my limited thinking this A.M.) can no doubt give you better details as to how to reassemble etc. But I believe that you've found your culprit. Enrique