EScanlon

Define "Grossly neglected" and you'll get better opinions. Pics would be a huge help, exterior shots all 4 sides, engine area, interior, under the carpet, open the doors and hatch and take pictures there, show any rust, etc. etc. To try to define in ONE post, thousands of other posts all defining what makes/breaks a car sale... just not going to happen. You're in California, and that's a plus for the condition of the cars, but how much of a plus? That will depend on too many factors to list. That someone would take them for "Free" may mean anything from scrap metal value, to someone looking to score two cars needing some mild work to be daily drivers by literally ripping you blind. There are several members here that live close to Redding that may chime in with an offer to evaluate, but it's up to them. HTH E

Those of us in the PDX area, recall how Arne would casually mention that he was going to remove his Transmission, disassemble it, "change a few things", re-assemble and then replace the tranny in the car before going out on a cruise .... in just a couple of days (sometimes one!). And this happened not just once or twice, but several times. (In all fairness he was chasing a bit of a knocking sound.) That being said, I think he's modestly saying... Huh? Nut-Nuh!!! to Beerman's post. My non-mechanic thought is, if you don't mind destroying the sheath for the speedo cable, is to remove the cable and sheath assembly, cut off the end that plugs into the transmission after removing the speedo cable inside, and either have the plug hole brazed where the sheath ends (best option) or use some form of heavy/strong epoxy (JB Weld or the like). The intent being to PLUG the hole where the Speedo used to connect to. FWIW E

Having worked on several of these, the most troubling rust problem I read is the one above the windshield. The appearance of the rust is also a big indicator, not just that it's there but how it LOOKS. If the paint is bubbling, and it's broken or chipped off revealing the metal, then it has ALREADY rusted through (it may be a pinhole). This is why pics help a lot. Rust on the areas noted is typical, but above the windshield says that you'll at least need to pull the windshield and likely replace the basket and maybe the windshield as well (if you're not careful or ...). That alone can be $100+ just for the gasket and then it depends on your choice of windshield. The other areas... well they also deduct. I don't like to quibble pricing without detailed pictures and you haven't posted any. $1500 in some parts of the country is considered a steal (win) for a car matching the condition you cite, and a rip-off (lose) in other parts. So, take any "I wouldn't pay more/less than..." posts with a grain of salt. One man's restoreable is another man's junk, same goes with the "pristine" condition, one man will nit-pick the lint on the carpet or dirt in the ashtray and deem it a filthy car, and another will prize the original paint with faded and burnt patina as desireable. $1500 if all the interior parts (crack-free dash, etc.) are in excellent condition may make the car worth it's price... for a parts car, or as a donor to a beter chassis. Then again, without pictures it's hard to determine if the chassis is useable or not. FWIW E

Check the IN-LINE fuse for the fan. Next, check that the internal voltage drop resistor in the outlet side of the fan is still connected, if it isn't the power doesn't get to the motor from the switch. E

Arne is spot on, and the other set come into play only after certain operating temperatures have been met. There's a Thermo Relay mounted just below the Coil that connects to the AT Thermo Switch and the distributor. The concept of corrosion on the points have nothing to do with either set of the points, since the relay switches the ground for the points and therefore disconnects the initial set of points. i.e. both points do NOT operate at the same time. That bit of mis-information may be true on other vehicles makes but does NOT apply to the AT 240 Z. E

There is a small screw at the back of the speedometer where the reset cable sheath goes into it's holder. LOOSEN it (not remove) and you should be able to remove the cable. The cable knob can be removed by pulling straight down from the dash. E

Yikes, I'll have to see if I have a spare unit to give you a definitive answer. IIRC, there is at least one, maybe two on the side facing the firewall, but don't hold me to that. Once you do remove the cover, the core just slides into the lower portion on rails and some packing. It will slide out towards the passenger side. E

Sorry, from reading the post regarding the blower, I was under the impression that you HAD already removed it from the hump. There are a couple of screws holding that side of the heater plenum cover onto the body of the heater plenum. If you could remove them (they'd be at 90° which could be tricky), then you could just slide the core out. Pressure tesitng could be as simple as using your air compressor with the core submerged in a bucket of water. But once you remove the cover, you may find the evidence at the bottom of the plenum (i.e. water, or coolant residue). HTH E

Could that possibly be that famous #26 single wire connector from the Single Wire Connector Index we discussed on another post? (By the way, I presume you already know, those two wires to the right of the red wire are for your Step Light.) I can't find a single indication of a RED only wire going to the back of the car. Can you unwrap the bundle just aft of the passenger seat and see if it DOES go all the way to the back of the car and not stop at the passenger seat area? The passenger seat had the Seat Belt Warning Buzzer circuitry added for later builds (still considered "early") as well as the tattle tale sensor attached to the bottom of the seat cushion AND the Parking Brake Lead. I'm still looking for a wire schematic that encompasses all those circuits. HTH E

As long as the equalizer accepts an amplified input signal, it would work. E

Can't you have the Heater Core pressure tested? That will tell you if it leaks. E

Black and Red/Black paired wires are the pair that feed the Rear Window De-Fog circuit. E

Model, Year and Build Date will help define the vehicle you're working on, and the right members can then give you more meaninful and directed advice. Add your model info to your signature in the Control Panel for User and that way it will show up on every post. Otherwise, people have to do a search on you to determine what you're driving. E

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPSBY/ref=asc_df_B0002ZPSBY1734134?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=nextagusmp0351057-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0002ZPSBY http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/GM-858/5.25-60W-MIDRANGE-DRIVER-8-OHM/1.html No qualification as to suitability for your intended use. E

Beerman, read the WHOLE post and you'll see why your answer... while technically correct, if the question were just, how can you equate an 8ohm speaker with two 4 ohm speakers, is TOTALLY WRONG for this application. (And some audiophiles will still discuss the HOW you connect in series as being important not only in circuit but also in acoustic response.) In this case, your "fix" is actually the WORST thing you can do for that radio. You're essentially DOUBLING the speaker rating. We're dealing with a 40+ year old radio that used technology and components probably 50 or so years old by now, with ratings of 4 Watt, 10% THD, and designed to use ONE 4 ohm speaker. E

Not trying to be "cute" but... keep looking? Radio Shack, your local Audio Shop, Wal-Mart, just to name a few places. I've even found 5-1/4" speakers in hardware stores, Lowe's, Home Depot, True Value, Ace, again, you just started today. But don't, as in DO NOT hook up two 4 ohm's in series or parallel as that will more than likely cause problems. E

Or you could check our own Technical Articles. Here's one I wrote years ago: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?146-Removing-Dash-and-Interior-for-Paint Which summarizes the procedure and here's the original thread with the added comments by others: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?6981-Removing-Dash-and-Interior-for-Paint FWIW E

Don't OVER complicate the simplest of issues. You do NOT need the additional circuitry if you do things right. This has been covered before, has been done NUMEROUS times, and the answer is really bone simple. It's all in the wiring of the TWO (again TWO) speakers. Instead of Series wiring, you wire in parallel, this changes the load on the radio properly. Bottom line, use TWO 8 ohm speakers, Monaural, 5-1/4" (Ideally should be 5-1/8", but good luck finding that), and no more than a 10 watt rating is more than sufficient. Wire them in parallel, i.e. + to + on each speaker and - to - then the OEM wiring direct to one of the speaker terminals. See these 3 other posts: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?28953 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?38942-stock-speaker-locations.&highlight=parallel+series http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?19340-Looking-for-original-1970-Radio-Stereo&highlight=parallel+series Don't expect Blaupunkt type of sound, but more along the line of the "free" el-cheapo give away radio you can score out of a gumball machine... just a tad louder. The OEM radio had 3.5W of power with a THD of 10% into a 4 ohm speaker with a very light magnet... as yoiu can imagine, it's by no means the equivalent of an iPod. Don't turn the volume all the way up (even with just ONE speaker) and you'll be fine. I've had this setup in my car for the last 10 years and have always been able to enjoy "stereo"... FWIW E

There is a small screw that slows/speeds up the clock mechanism. At a WAG, you may have loosened that one in error. Look through the back of the case and you should see a round slot with (+ '''''' -) impressed on the metal below the hole. That's the adjustment screw. Sadly, I can't tell you to do 2.5 turns in X direction or something like that. Now you're in the Adjust, wait a period of time and re-adjust until you get the right pattern down. As a note, when I tried "calibrating" several clocks in my garage with various DC power supplies (all nominally rated to be 12VDC +/- a small amount), I COULD eventually get the clock to run... bang on. Yet, once installed in the car, it would be off. How much... differed by car, differed by amount of use of the car, differed by year, just way too many variables to try to discern a pattern. We even had one situation where one clock was R&R from the same car and had two different rates of maladjustment to actual time. It wasn't from slow to fast or vice versa, but it was something like 7+ to 3+ just by R&R the clock. I had one that would keep perfect time.... for WEEKS in a row (I think I finally pulled it after 7 weeks), on the 12VDC, but would gain 6 minutes every day in the car. (This is the one that is currently IN the car.) I gave up, and now use the discrepancy as a gauge to determine when the last time I drove the car was; one hour off = 60 minutes = 10 days since I adjusted the clock. What I'm getting to, is that you could take it in to your shop, plug it into a 12VDC source, or even a spare car battery, but don't expect a chronometer. HTH E

And I imagined he was referring to the FRESH AIR VENT. My Bad (sorry, I hate that expression too....) E

Post pictures of the parts. The item is pretty basic and to try to describe parts as opposed to just telling you item 1, 2 etc. goes here etc. would be faster. E

It's probably a reversed picture. E

The "extra" connections on the switches are sometimes deemed unnecessary by owners. The main one, is of course, the Dome Lamp circuit, which is simply a "ground" switch, i.e. it grounds the circuit to complete it. (By the way, the additional wires for the Step Lamp taped to the extreme ends of the harness are "HOT" when the doors are open. Meaning that all you do is connect your lamp to it and it will be powered in the same circuit as the Dome Lamp.) The other connections are for the "Key-In" circuit and the Seat Belt Starter Interrup Relay, both of which are only needed for the Driver's door. Whether you need/want those other circuits is up to you. Removing the "extra" connections on a driver's switch to use it on the passenger door is easy, they can be clipped or if you take the time, disassembled and removed. E

Those aren't the original OEM style Door Switches. Those are Car Alarm switches that someone has used to replace the OEM style. The OEM style has a chrome surround disk that resembles the interior rivets in shape. The OEM style doesn't screw into the sheet metal, it just pushes in and holds with some spreading "fingers" behind the chrome cap. FWIW E

And many people confuse the 73's Intermittent Speed as a "speed". Especially when you note that the Comb. Switch only has Dots to denote which one it's on. Hopefully it's that simple. If not, there are other things that get a bit more complex. E