EScanlon

Andrew: Thanks for the tip! I'll have to check my book and see what I find. If I do need you to scan it I'll post back. Alan: Great info mate! I'm going to give my contact in Canada a holler and see what I can find. Enrique

Actually, that the US cars did NOT have the Passing Light feature is not surprising. In the 60's and well into the 70's, American cars had the high beam switch on the floor, where the Z's have the Foot Support. While the majority of cars sold were Automatic, there were a few sold with manual transmissions. But it wasn't until the gas crunch of the 70's that people started looking at Manual Transmissions as more efficient than their Automatic contender. As a result, the LEFT foot (in the US) was not used (except for those brave individuals who claimed that braking with the left foot was "faster reaction" than with the right), EXCEPT for the High/Low Beam switch. The location of the switch, probably goes back to when we still had a starter button that had to be pushed to actuate the starter motor. Remember in those days, the size of the switches to handle that much voltage was huge in contrast to what was used later. Both the starter and the headlight switches were on the left hand side of the car, until some manufacturers relocated the starter switch to the dash, and eventually the keyed ignition lock. The headlight switch was not addressed until much later, even though many vehicles in those days were Manual transmission. Unfortunately, this is the same group of people that had a difficult time understanding the Hand Throttle on the console. Making such a "radical" change as moving the switch to the turn signal stalk was controversial. There were many stories written up in car magazine's of the day with folks complaining about it. Those vehicles that DID have the Passing Light feature, no doubt further confused their owners into believing they had to continually hold the switch in order to use their high beams. So, no doubt Datsun decided to save a couple of bucks and omitted that feature. In the aftermath of the gas crunch of the 70's, many manufacturers imported vehicles from their own marque from Europe. In Europe as mentioned before, in many countries, it is a requirement that you must flash your headlights as you overtake a vehicle. Rather than change the wiring to put a floor switch on, it was introduced to the American public. Nowdays, I would be hard pressed to find ANY US made vehicle with the old foot switch. Unfortunately, the American public still hasn't caught on to the "language" of the Passing Light. To the majority of Americans, the high beams are only to illuminate long stretches of back roads, or to frantically signal some fool in front of you that he has done something idiotic. If you DO look around, you will note that there is a systematic and logical use of the high beam by those people that have gleamed an understanding of the "language". Tractor trailer drivers use it to advise another trucker that the rear end of the trailer he's towing has cleared the vehicle who was being overtaken. A flash of high beam headlights also warns people on side streets that you are approaching the intersection and are moving fast enough that they shouldn't enter the intersection. A quick double flash when you approach a slower moving vehicle from behind, alerts the driver of your request that he move over to another lane rather than block the "higher" speed lane. These are just some of the ones that I've observed over the years, but I'm sure that our European community members can divulge many more. 2¢ Enrique

HAHAHAHA! About as confident as the man who prayed every day at church, asking God to let him win the lottery. Seems he went there for years, until one day he hears: "I'll grant you your wish my son, if you will grant me one of mine." Abashed and awe-struck he exclaims: "Anything Lord, as long as it is within my ability to do so!!!" To which he hears: "Meet me half way! Buy a Ticket!" Alan you know how hard it will be. I'm just going to attack it again from a different angle. Enrique

Thanks Alan, that clears that up. So we are still looking for someone with the "Series II" console with an OEM Fog Lamp Switch installed by either the Factory or a Dealer. Otherwise, the location below the "Z" Plate is not only cut in the dimension it would require, but it is congruent with the established location in the "Series I" console. I'm going to have to see about getting those Part numbers checked for availability and price. Enrique

EXCELLENT!! This is exactly the type of information I was hoping to garner. Now, I can start zeroing in on the circuitry. Andrew, do you have the wiring diagram for your specific car? By that I mean a 72 UK HS30 .... If so, any chance you could scan and send? I'm sure that with that and a little creative effort, I might be able to design and make an "add-in" wire loom. Alan, I will see what I can do with the diagram you sent. I'll have to correlate a known english text one with the one you posted to determine what / where the differences are. Thank you for the post. Enrique

Of the 5-6 of the Z's that I've recently worked on, there was no Passing Light Feature. The only thing available was the High/Low Function when the Headlights are on. When the Light Switch is on the "Park" position, it does NOT light the Headlamps. The Passing Light Feature, to clarify for those who may not know what it means, (and those that DO know, can correct / clarify .) is a switch that permits turning ON the HIGH Beam Light without having had the headlamps already lit, nor any part of the lighting circuit. This is usually on a Momentary Close switch as opposed to the Double Pole Single Throw switch that the standard High/Low beam uses. It seems that Datsun used BOTH switches to make this work. That implies that the Turn Signal Stalk is hollow and that the rubber end piece has a hole in it to accept the MC switch. Unless the whole stalk pushes IN to actuate a switch on the column. In some vehicles, such as my Acura or my wife's Subaru, and since the early 90's on many US vehicles, the H/L Switch performs BOTH functions. Canadian cars, with their requirement of Daytime Running Lights, may or may not be equipped with the same system. A very interesting discussion this is turning into. Enrique

I'd forgotten about the black bag and the hated "must move so many inches" before it will cycle through to park. Good catch Carl. Thanks! Enrique

Actually, that panel IS in Alan's Car. I'll allow him to clear up the mystery, but I would bet that he placed the switches in OEM order, and used that specific panel simply because of the scarcity of the other one. So, Alan, if I goofed in posting that picture, or in sticking you with ownershuip.....oops! My apologies. Enrique

GRRRRRRR!!!!!!! :mad: I dibbsed the first available switch a YEAR ago!@@!!#!@ Actually, have you heard of some parts that are made from Unobtaniuum? Well this part is made of Ultra Pure Refined No-Existiuum! Enrique

Chris: Don't quote me as to the location on the "Series II" consoles. I have a picture (attached) which shows TWO of the Parking Light Switches, and purportedly one of them (in the case of the picture I have) the right hand one, is the one for the fog lamps. I've also attached a drawing of a Fog Lamp Switch that Katz sent me. By the way, the console cover is off of Alan T's car. HTH Enrique

I'm posting a picture from my Clymer Manual that details it out very well. It also gives the location measurements for the Park and fully extended positions of the wipers. Enrique

Alan: I'm mainly interested in how it operated. On the majority of cars that I have driven that have this feature, a simple pull, just as if I was switching to the higher beam element, is all that is required to activate the headlights. (In many places in Europe, you are required to "flash" the person in front of you when you overtake them.) My 76 Capri II had the HORN on the end of the stalk, and you pressed it by pressing down towards the steering column. So, the "dot" on the end of the stalk, denotes that you can press it and the lights will flash, or am I mistaken? As far as the wiring schematics, I'd be principally interested in finding out where the relay was, if there was one; and the wiring required to effect the circuit. If possible what the switch or stalk switch would look like. I would love to be able to add that to my car, as the Passing Light is a feature I miss. Enrique

One thing to note, for when you get your replacement, and for the rest of us who will go check their levers out momentarily. Make sure the lever handle is inserted onto the lever SNUGLY, but NOT TIGHT. Additionally, make sure that you tighten down the screw that holds it onto the lever properly, being careful not to strip the lever. Failure to tighten the screw down MAY allow the handle to shift very slightly as it pivots on the screw, causing a lever / fulcrum effect on the handle plastic. It doesn't take much leverage to exert more force than necessary to break the plastic. By keeping the plastic piece on there snug, you will greatly reduce the possibility of breaking that handle. Enrique

The wiper motor has a small "cap" on the backside of the transmission housing, to which a pair of wires are attached. That cap is held on to the transmission with 3 screws if I recall right. Loosening those screws (NOT removing) allows you to rotate that cap. By rotating that cap, you'll allow the motor to continue receiving juice, even though the switch has been turned off, UNTIL it reaches the "Park" position. Once the wipers have reached the park position, the contact inside that cap will cut off the power to the motor. If your wipers ALWAYS shut off at whatever point you turned the switch off, it is more than likely a fault in those two wires. If on the other hand, it's only at ~certain~ positions that the wipers do NOT return to park, it's probably dirt / gunk inside this switch cap. Enrique

From the various Z's I've worked on, and checking the wiring diagrams for them, the wiring for the fog lights IS buillt into the Front and Dash wiring harnesses. The leads to it are: RED & BLACK. Typically you will find the wiring taped to the main wire bundle going from Passenger Side Headlight and Parking Light cluster to the Driver Side. Look for a piece of BLUE electrical vynil tape. Those two wires go to your Fog Lamps, Red to the power and Black to ground. (The OEM Fog Lamps were insulated from chassis ground, which is why the black wire was required.) If your fog lamps are chassis ground type, try insulating the mount and running the black wire to a wire you provide. This way you aren't counting on bumper bolts, body bolts etc, to finish the circuit for you. In the console area, the opposite end of the wiring is RED & RED / GREEN. The wiring is on a connector and I've seen the end of it creeping out near the fuse box / hazard switch ends. Now, the switch just CLOSES the connection and allows power coming from the lighting circuit just before the rheostat for dimming the instrument lights. This means the circuit is POWERED, and just requries the switch and lamps to function. So don't go hooking up additional power leads, as all you'll do is fry things. If your fog lamps are rated higher than 40 or 50 watts, DO NOT use the car's wiring harness. Instead use a relay method like you would for higher wattage headlights. The circuitry is NOT designed to carry a huge load. As far as placement of the switch, on the cars with the earlier console (ash tray lighter cover over fuse box area) the hole on the dash itself ABOVE the Hazard Light Switch was NOT drilled out. THAT is the location for the Fog Lamp switch on the "Series I". (NOTE: The "Series I & II" are differentiations that we in the U.S. have adopted, and aren't an "official" Datsun / Nissan denominator.) On the later consoles, now with the Ash Tray BEHIND the Shift, and the Fuse Cover area having a series of lights and switches, the CENTER button, if I recall correctly is where the fog lamp switch went. Since I haven't really investigated this, I'll have to request verification from others. Alan? Enrique

Agreed, that's yet another way. How does everyone want to handle it? By committee or by edict? E

I enlarged the picture even more and although most detail fades out, it appears that there may be a button on the end of the stalk. In there an engraved light symbol. Any thoughts anyone? Enrique

Is there anyway of determining if there is any kind of writing on the light stalk that would indicate how to actuate it? I'm interested in also finding out about the wiring circuitry. Whether inherent in the existing harness or additional harness or even a swapped out harness. Wiring schematics would be sufficient. Additionally; anyone have one of these stalks that does click fore and aft? Enrique

Since this post covers all the accessories, we will soon be inundated with a long and jumbled series of replies. As a title of your post, let's start putting the Accessorie Number and Name. Nothing else, not Re:...., just numb and name. In this manner it will be easier to trace a particular discussion. If you're investigating the Fog Lamps the last thing you want is to be sidetracked onto Passing Light. Especially when you are trying to find a specific post. In the case of discussing 2 or more accessories, put a separate and spaced out line with the text as it would be in the title line. That way a search can still be made for your material. Then YOU be the judge as to what accessorie it best applies to. The more people do this the better for all, especially if we are hoping to "write" a discussion to be referenced later by us and others. Enrique

Not trying to "hijack" a thread that I would have started..... Don't delete it! Let's "play-on".... I also was thinking of a "separate" post in order to not piggy-back on the otther post. As to waiting for the larger picture, I was hoping to enlarge each of the "sections" of the photo to give greater detail and with Alan's translation a complete understanding of the items. That it has started....GREAT! Now with Alan's translation we can really rock. Enrique

Whether folks choose to discuss / participate the items is something that we will have to wait and see. However, as a source of information for those of us who are interested, but may not have a lot of comments about it, it is invaluable. There are so many items that were OEM accessories that are confused with After Market Add-Ons, and vice-versa. I think that a post that identifies the source of the material, in this case the JAPANESE Market Parts Catalogue, and what each of the original items were, would in the long run, serve as a myth buster or at least a clarification point. From the pictures, it seems as though the "bumperettes" / Bumper Guards / Overriders / Vertical Bumpers, were an accessory. I think that alone will open some discussion as I think the majority of members here and elsewhere, and not just U.S. members, are of the opinion that they came on ALL cars. On a different vein, while many members have installed Fog Lamps on their car, they are, invariably, an after market match to whatever style they felt best matched their car. What did the originals look like? As someone posted on another thread, many of these parts are no longer available in any form from Nissan and Dealers. Many of the cars did not have them to begin with, and therefore, finding one in a boneyard is a true shot in the dark. So for the collector who is trying to find those hard to find accessories, the only answer might be an item from another car marque and / or an after- market supplier. Lastly, there are pictures on that page that seem to identify other accessories, but it isn't immediately apparent as to what they are. I will bet that some of those items may prove to be a pleasant surprise to some members. As to whether people will read or participate? In the past, I've noticed that many folks do, if not initially....eventually. Many of those posts are now referenced by others in the same vein in other discussions. Just my 2¢ Enrique

Alan: Excellent post! Is there any way I could beg you to enlarge that accessory picture, and e-mail me a copy? I would like to post each one of the accessories on it's own post so that everyone can discuss them. Some of them are easily discernable, but there are a couple that are very obscure. Your assistance in translating the Japanese text would be invaluable. Enrique

The plastic is reminiscent of the plastic bag that new panels come in. Out of all the cars that I've restored, I've always seen the vapor barrier attached to the door and not the panel. Could it be that some ingenous person at some time figured that the main purpose of the plastic is to protect the door panel (it isn't) and attached it to it? FYI, the vapor barrier is attached to the door panel to seal the plenum inside the door from the interior, and keep the moisture and dirt inside there. Door panels are typically attached via single point clips and as such are not "air tight" to the door panel. By attaching the vapor barrier to the door panel it keeps the air / moisture in the door and not just protect the door panel. As an idea to protect the door panel, it is a definite plus, but not the best. I've seen some door panels with a shellac coating on the back to protect them from the moisture, that, in my opinion is much better for moisture protection than the plastic (for the door panel). 2¢ Enrique

When I installed mine on my car, I also noted the lack of a seal between the headlight mounting panel and the sugar scoop back. Since I also did NOT want the debris coming up into the scoop area, I fashioned my own seal around the scoop to fit over the headlight bulb. Finding a piece of flat rubber with enough stiffness to not flop over, yet soft enough to cushion was a bit of a challenge. Luckily a neighbor friend of mine had some "squeegee" rubber from a window cleaning tool that he had replaced. That proved to be exactly what I needed. Now, there are a couple limitations that you'll have to consider. The space that needs to be sealed is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch if I recall properly. Additionally, at the top of the scoop, from behind, there is only about 1/2" or so of space before the sheet metal starts curving back towards the fender of the car (the "eyebrow" of the scoop). I had looked at using closed cell foam, or some other material, but it would have been a mess. When I applied the flat piece of rubber, I used weatherstrip adhesive, just on the outside of the "tube" part of the scoop as seen from behind. Carefully placing the rubber so that it protruded about 1/16 to 1/8 beyond the plane of the back of the scoop. This was so I could control the amount of compression on the rubber so as not to distort it. Once I had finally placed it properly, I then took several of the large zip ties and snugged them around the rubber to grip and hold it there in case the adhesive dried out or peeled. Now this was the way I fixed mine, but if you can come up with a better seal than that, I'm all for it. One note, I used the black rubber because I knew that it would not discolor as obviously as other materials, and since the very back edge of the scoop does allow you to see the opening, or gasket, that discoloration was important to me. Enrique

I already have a set on my car, and need a new RH Lens. I also want a second complete set for another car I have and a possible third. Let me know. Enrique