EScanlon

Have you checked the Vacuum Advance Mechanism INSIDE the distributor to make sure that it isn't shot to heck? I've seen a couple people report that that was the problem. Aside from that, I had a pair of Webers on my car when I bought it, and my mechanic told me that in his opinion, neither Webers nor Holley's were worth the pain and hazzle on the L motor. So I switched to the SU's and have been real happy since. Enrique

Kats: Unless I am mistaken that 5th bulb is for the Parking Light. That is why you don't usually find it in U.S. market cars as they did not arrive with the Parking Lamp circuitry. Enrique

Alan: I am posting an enlarged section of the image. If you look closely, right below her wrist you will see the shape of the lever knob that mirrors the one for the choke. To the far right of the picture you'll see the emergency brake boot. Although the picture on the knob is undiscernible, you CAN see that the angle, shape, and general lay of the reflection of light can only match a knob / lever with the same configuration as the choke lever knob. As such, since the only other control on the car that got installed in that same general location was the Hand Throttle Control Lever, I presume that that is what I am seeing. I could be mistaken so now we have a reason for Kats to provide the picture on the page that shows the instruction for the Hand Throttle. How about it Kats? Enrique

Kats: Not since "Interior Ergonomics" have I had so much fun with a post. Your "question" in turn answers so many discussions that we've had. I would thoroughly enjoy reading that Owner's Manual. Could you take pictures of each of the pages and then post? Or if it takes too much time, you could send them to me and I'll post them to the website. Although it may sound like a waste of time, it is not. These manuals give insights as to what was considered "standard" or at least available to the Japanese Domestic Market. It is the differences between the JDM and the U.S. market that are so informative and interesting. A note to the side: The Center Console shown in the picture is what, in the U.S. is considered to be one of the key designations between a Series I and a Series II. (Sorry Alan) Granted, from discussions here we've seen that this differentiation is a U.S. only difference. That console shows the Parking Light Switch as well as the Rear Window Defog switch located in FRONT of the Shifter. The sliding cover ash-tray is also a "Series II" design. However, if you download the picture and then magnify and sharpen the image, you'll just begin to see the presence of a Throttle Control Lever to the RIGHT of the console. This was NEVER seen in the U.S.. Another note: The Headlight Switch to Lamps Light relationship chart shows that the Headlight Switch and Turn Signal Levers are in fact reversed from those we've seen in the U.S.. Additionally, there is evidence that the JDM cars were fitted with a Passing Light Relay circuit which allows the High Beam Lights to be actuated without the parking or turn signal lamps. Lastly, the picture for the Parking Lights. Thank you again in helping me procure that switch for my car. This picture describes the use of the switch perfectly. Thanks again! Enrique Scanlon

I think there has been some confussion within this discussion as to which of the plastic connectors each person is referring to. In the picture, the one to the right, which has a rod with a 90° bend in it, that's the one I think you are referring to. It's been a while, but you can do the screwdriver pry method mentioned above, or if I recall correctly, you can turn the rod 90° in the opposite direction of which it actuates and slip the "ears" of the rod end through the plastic retainer. The one that everyone is referring to as being threaded is the one in the "middle" of your picture. You'll note that it has a Hex Head and a smooth shaft. That's the one that is used to adjust the amount of travel that the outside door handle has before it opens the door latch mechanism. The last one, which no one has mentioned, is the one to the far left, which is the one attached to the door lock mechanism. You've already removed that one, so you know how, but for the sake of this post, you rotate the rod body clip to the side so that you can pull the bent rod end from the hole in the lock swing arm. If you'll recall that one also had to be aligned a special way before the rod end would escape. Enrique

The blower knob has a screw in that little hole. Using a straight edge screwdriver you then cinch it down on the switch pole. Enrique

Mark: Again, I apologize if my prior post seemed like a brush off, as that is NOT what I wanted to say. The electrical system of the 240 is a very basic system. It doesn't have the AFM or ECU or much of the latter additions that make it so difficult to troubleshoot or repair. The VAST majority of issues with the system, lights that won't work or work erratically, blown fuses, overloaded circuits, hazard lights working while turn signals don't, are for the most part a connectivity problem. That problem can be from corroded connections, cold solder joints, dirt and grime on contact surfaces, and rarely, broken wires. Although you feel that your symptoms don't match what's already been written about in the archives, I'll guarantee that once you find the cause of your problem and rectify it, you too will see that the answer was in the archives all along. 2¢

Mark: Do a search in the Electrical section and you'll be flooded with prior posts all asking just about exactly the same thing. In short, check all your electrical connections and switches. I hope I don't offend you by answering this way, as that is not my intent, but all of us have typed and retyped that response so many times that we will sometimes ignore the post for a couple of days. 2¢

I currently have my driving lights hooked up through the car's wiring. Some notes: I am only using low wattage driving lights, (think about 40 ? watts.) this is because I'm specifically avoiding using any bulbs with a power rating greater than the headlights. Remember, today's 100+ watt halogen's were NOT around when the car came out. If you do plan on using the higher wattage lights, then definitely power from the battery and use a relay. The inside end of the fog lights should be right below the radio and behind the fuse box. If I recall it's a Green White wire with a black. Note that you only need an SPST switch to close and turn on the light circuit. Enrique

To answer your original question: The 70 to 71 and for the most part the 72 Z's did NOT have intermittent wipers. If the combo switch you bought has a 4th detent for the wiper (Off, Int, Low, High) then that switch is for a 73+ Z with the ubiquitous late 72 mixed in there. That is why the connectors won't mate, there aren't enough wires in your existing harness to accomodate all the features of the new switch. Have you tried fixing the one you currently own? It is surprisingly easy, and as you pointed out, with the guys here, you'll get good advice quickly. Trying to jump the wiper motor or switch may seem easy but believe me it isn't easy to do. Disp: I don't know about the others, but I feel that the switch's seller's identity should be revealed. Not only did he refund your auction money, he refunded shipping?? That is exceptional. Knowing he's ethical is important for those of us who do shop on e-Bay on occasion. Enrique

Every once in a while that panel pops up on E-Bay for about $120. I haven't checked, but you might check with either MSA, V/B or our Z sponsor here Midwest Z. The rust bubbles may or may not be rust through from the backside, they may be poor preparation on the metal that is finally popping through. The "cup" for the inside of the gas filler access is spot welded and seamed to the fender, so it is very possible to have had some moisture get caught up in the seam. Hope this helps. Enrique

I'm chiming in and my input is going to seem like a cannonball dive at the local septic pool. Nissan's production year ran from January to December. That has been established as the main reason why we have vehicles that are "Series One" or as having features that really belong in the next / prior year. For those of us outside the U.S.; while the designation of Series One or Two doesn't apply, to us in the U.S. it denotes hatch, and vent or not in the pillar, as well as other interior changes. Series One are generally considered to be: Vent in Hatch; 240Z emblem on C-Pillar instead of Z / Vented. Ash Tray in console in front of the shifter; dash hole above flasher switch not cut out, Center console still has the opening for the Hand Throttle, although no mechanism. Same for Left/Right Marker Light Switch which mounts to the right of the Rear Defog Switch. The Series Two's main difference is the Hatch Vent to Pillar change. There are others, and there are many transition cars. That was the discussion that got us to the conclusion as to the production / model year debate. 2¢ Enrique

I think that little white cap was put there when the car got some sort of rust protection inhibitor sprayed in there. 2¢ Enrique

When Nissan was first making the Z, the cowl panel was fitted to the car with a pair of foam padding insulators to avoid the high speed vibration rattle that would / could rattle the cowl bad enough to rattle against the sub metal. Although at the time and for the first few years, the foam padding was water repellant enough to avoid getting filled up with water, over time the foam tends to break down and what was once CLOSED cell foam becomes somewhat OPEN Celled. For the most part, OPEN cell is another word for SPONGE. Closed cell foam has thicker walls between the bubbles and as a result don't completely compress unless CRUSHED. When they get crushed, as in the case of long term pressure and vibration, they will absorb water to a small degree. Add to this mix the fact that the galvanizing done on the sheet metal of the Z is not the thickest nor top coated afterwards and you have a perfect scenario for later rust problems. If you can access a different cowl in better condition, then go for it. If you haven't a choice, you can still repair the panel. Personally, I would recommend the POR and Power Mesh route. It's quick, will protect the rest of the metal, provide a good enough backing for most bodywork, and a breeze compared to brazing or welding a patch in. While you're at it, clean out the whole cowl area, POR it and check both drains and the vent hole. Enrique

Geeeeez! You can tell that the board has been somewhat dead lately. I've not seen more serious work suggested on something that MAY be very minor. First of all, check the SWITCH portion of the LOCK mechanism. That is a simple rotary switch scrwed onto the back side of the Lock Cylinder. The Z uses a small flat "key" to actuate the switch's rotary selector. The switch is held onto the Lock mechanism via two screws. I've seen these screws go loose, then the switch doesn't maintain the key inside the slot. (I hate when that happens.:cheeky: ) This may or may not be the solution. A second thought might be one of the wires on the back of the ignition switch having lost the soldered contact to the switch. And finally, a new switch. All before determining voltage regulator directional polarity, phase or any thing even more complicated. Remember Occam's Razor. Victor: I will admit to not knowing definitively. The explanation of the diode is correct, however, I'm not sure you CAN wire the alternator without the diode. The other theory sounds plausible, but I don't know. Enrique

After the Combi Switch, the next place that the Brake and Turn Signal lights are still mixed is at the Hazard Flasher Switch. Have you checked this out? Also check your Hazard Flasher, this is separate from the one for your turn signals. You'll find one by the steering column and the other on the passenger kick panel. Since you mention that the stop lamp switch was "burned out" I would start tracing wiring to ensure that it isn't burn and shorted. The White / Red or White / Black wires are the same ones at the combination switch as they are at the tail lights, and they are the ones that you would be using. Hope this helps. Enrique

I've commonly seen this type of rust on vehicles that tend to get parked bneath small leaved trees, (short pine needles, willow's, etc). The leaves fall off the trees, land in the area behind the inspection doors, then get washed down along the top of the Fresh Air Vent Tunnel to the front part of the engine compartment. Unfortunately, almost every Z I've seen that has NOT had the fenders removed, will undoubtedly show a lump of body sealant compound that they used. Unfortunately that lump is actually closing off the drain holes for this part of the car. For those of you who haven't removed their front fenders, check this drain hole, and make sure that it isn't plugged. As far as a repair, I'd do a simple braze replacement and then POR it well. Welding would be ideal, but you're not going to be able to get in to all the crevices there. So, FWIW, I would sandblast the area, then braze replacement metal and finally POR. Enrique

Check your turn signals also. If they also, do not work then your problem is more than likely where the three circuits come together. The combination switch. Hope this helps.

If your cable broke at the handle, use vise-grips or pliers to pull on the remainder. Then get a new cable/handle assembly. If the cable broke at the other end, you literally pulled the cable out of the assembly. You will have to reach the latch mechanism at the top and rear of the engine compartment. Some people have claimed success in reaching up from underneath the car and then actuating it with a screwdriver. Myself, I haven't tried this, and I think you would have to be triple jointed, but they claim it can be done. The way I did it when my cable snapped was to remove the bolts holding the hood to the hinges. Then gently lifting the hood as far as it could and bracing it there with a 2x4, I was able to reach the bolts holding the hood pin to the hood. Remove the hood pin and not the latch mechanism as the mechanism grips the pin from beneath the bracket it sits on. I guess you could probably get in there and pull / pull on the mechanism and release the pin, but I didn't have any luck. By the way, a member of the Roadster mailing list attached a second cable to his Roadster's mechanism just in case..... Enrique

The Z has always had interior light switches on the doors. I can't recall ever seeing a Z without the switches. The switches could also operate an extra set of wiring leads that were meant for a set of lights on the door / kick panel. I have heard of but never seen the door panel step light. The picture in the microfiche isn't distinctive enough to discern. The earlier cars had the switches without the grounding strap wire. The problem with these was that due to the nature of dissimilar metals when in contact with each other, AND the addition of electrical current through the contact point, the switches would corrode very quickly. Adding a grounding strap to the body of the switch helped diminish this tendency. The driver's side switch has two wires plus the grounding strap, since one actuates the light and the other actuates the key-in reminder buzzer. Personally, unless you are going for the Smithsonian School of Restoration, no one will notice if you used the strapped one or not. Enrique

Victor: You state that the ammeter "goes crazy" as well as other items dimming, when you turn on the turn signals. You don't state whether the increase in draw is when the light turn signal indicator is ON or OFF. Although to some it may sound frivolous it might be the indication you are looking to find. Turn Signal Flashers work on a resistance inside. When you apply current to the flasher, it heats up a resistance wrapped around a contact. When that resistance gets hot enough, it causes the contact, which is made of heat sensitive metal, to "click" or pop to a different position, due to the heat. At that point it closes the contact for the turn signal elements and allows current to flow to the turn signal light bulbs, and they light up. When the metal on the contact cools down enough, it then contracts and returns to the original position, where the resistance is once again heated up. If your ammeter is showing a strong draw when the flasher is in "heating up mode", then it's the flasher that is starting to go bad, as the resistance is starting to burn out. If on the other hand it's when the turn signal lights are on, then you have a problem in the wiring either TO or AWAY from the flasher. I would first check the turn signal switch as they are notorious for getting dirt and dust inside the switch unit. HTH Enrique

Briefly and succinctly: (and I apologize if it seems rude.) What do you consider good? There's color, I can't see the primer, and who wants it to shine so you have to wash it, it's good. Or: Dang, that paint's so shiny and smooth and it reflects so good that if it were black, chicks in mini-skirts wouldn't go within 5 feet of the car. If the first, then Yeah, you can get results from a paint can. If the second, nope. Very small areas, IF you have a perfect color match, then you might be able to get away with it. Larger areas? Very doubtful, the first few inches of paint would already be drying or dry before you finished the piece, not good. Additionally, most spray cans are formulated with solvents specifically designed to atomize and propel as well as dry quickly. Most paint mixed for painting with spray guns, you want a small period when it is still liquid. This minimizes Orange Peel, helps eliminate Dry-Line and allows you to build up each coat with successive passes of your spray gun. Too much and you'll get a sag or a run. Too little and it will have a sandpaper type feel, little shine and excessive orange peel. Other painters will immediately ask you if you painted it with a "rattle can". Lastly, the solvents in use in the rattle cans are not necessarily compatible with either your base coat(s) of paint or future coat(s). 2¢ Enrique

Just be aware that HVLP stands for High Volume Low Pressure. Doesn't sound bad, until you consider that most good HVLP systems include their own air source. A standard home compressor won't be able to keep up with the gun. Now, I don't have or use an HVLP, so I am not sure if the above is urban legend or fact. I still use the older style DeVilbiss and Binks guns. They're high pressure, but my compressor can keep up with them. 2¢ Enrique

I got my hand throttle / choke cable assembly through the Datsun Dude. I found out later that MSA has the whole assembly, choke AND throttle for the EARLY 240. I don't know if it comes with the knobs for them. The throttle cable is special not only in the end lead but also in the slip washer that fits onto the top of the accelerator pedal, as that is how it works, it pulls on the top of the pedal linkage. Since the automatic accelerator pedal has a flat tab welded midway up the upper part of the metal rod (for the kickdown switch), and every one of the auto pedals I found had that tab, I also discovered that NONE of them had the clip at the top for the throttle clip. I ended up fashioning a metal tab for the kick down switch on a manual accelerator pedal. As far as I know, the throttle cable was discontinued in the U.S. market sometime in either late 70 or early 71. The automatic cars didn't start arriving in the U.S. until mid to late 71, hence, there wouldn't be ANY automatics with the hand throttle. I added it to my car because I didn't want to replace my console and I did not want a hole in my console where the hand throttle lever goes. So, I do have a non-stock customization. Hope this helps. Enrique

The Air Nozzle Siphon Gun I bought at Harbor Freight came with a 6' hose, clear pvc, probably 3/8". The POR flows well through it, it's the lacquer thinner afterwards that literally dissolved it. The nice thing about that nozzle was that it was exbremely compact and light. If you can get your index finger into the hole you can get this nozzle. Now it won't bend, so you need to splatter in order to catch the opposite side to whatever wall you are splashing. Then again, you could just spray and splash as best as you can and hope for the best. 2¢ Enrique