EScanlon

I DID say Sorry! But... are the RPMS ACTUALLY going up or is it just the Tach jumping? That may help solve the problem. E

Are you letting your foot come up on the gas while you shift? Sorry, had to ask. E

The microfiche shows the same part being used on the 240's and the earliest 260's, up to August 74. After Sept 74 it shows the two part filler neck. As other parts have shown, there is undoubtedly some "fuzziness" as to the actual cut-off/start but that's what the CD shows. E

Sarah, the post specifically addressed the 240. To delve into the other models in ONE thread would be overkill. The early 260 had a different filler hose from the later 260 which it shared with the 280 which was a different hose. The microfiche also hints at differences with the 2+2 models. Undoubtedly there were sheet metal changes during that time as well which probably changed the best method for inserting the filler hose. The 280 shows a distinct SEPARATE piece for the section of the hose that goes through the Cup that holds the top of the hose. The 240's piece is all one piece from the top OUTSIDE down to the tank. That one change would allow you to insert from the bottom, whereas in the 240 trying to insert the upper AND the seal grommet while holding the tank up... rots of ruck. I didn't post the 280's differences as the one 280 I refreshed was too far back in time to cite memories accurately. FWIW E

I stand corrected. I will have to find the discussion that was posted some years ago, but my recollection was that with the internally regulated alternator, the ammeter was only reading the discharge occurring in the system and not the charging. The discussion went on to say that the ammeter was essentially removed from the circuit. My car does not have the internal regulated alternator, I still have the original and the regulator. They work fine. As a result, I fell prey to quoting from older messages rather than cutting and pasting the old posts or links to them. But I'd be interested in finding out the result of whether or not the car will start with the ammeter disconnected. That would confirm a wiring schematic discrepancy as either correct or incorrect but yielding what it should be diagramed as. FWIW E

Do a search in the forums, there are numerous threads regarding this specific problem.

No, no, and no. Unless you have a firm and steady supply of replacement fuel filler hoses at $100 each plus. If your filler hose top neck requires heat to be supple enough to feed through the TWO (count them two) openings in the sheet metal, you are NEVER going to get it to position by mounting on the tank first. First off, although expensive, if your filler hose is HARD, and I mean hard enough to require more than a couple of fingers to compress it.... replace it. You be the judge, but hard rubber means it's lived it's life and movement will cause it to crack and fail. You've already got fuel fumes in the car... why give them a head start after the "fix"? Heating old rubber will only get it soft enough to do a FAST installation. The procedure above is anything BUT fast. The procedure for mounting this hose (and I've done a few) is to insert it from the INSIDE of the car. You first remove the flange neck that bolts to the bottom of the fender "sill", this is where the accordion bulges need to be supple enough to allow the flange to be worked over them. This is the bottom "leg" that connects to the tank. Then carefully collapse the upper flanged neck (the one the gas cap mounts over), up through the Gas Door Cup's hole. Once you've done that you can also work the Bib Rubber over it (it mounts below the flanged neck) from the outside. Instalation of the Gas Cap Base Mount can be done now or later, just be sure to align the mounting holes properly. Go underneath the car, and re-insert the bottom flange neck over the filler hose and mount to the bottom of the fender sill. If you're concerned with fumes you can bolster this with some form of sealant to "seal" the bottom. Just be sure to use a sealant that does not degrade the filler hose. Your Filler Hose is now installed. Next, go underneath the car, make sure the access cover in the rear right tire well has been removed giving you lateral access to the filler hose and the tank's filler hole. This is a simple panel that allows you to get your hands in to clamp the filler hose to the tank's neck. A note here, the vent hoses on the top of the tank should have already been mounted AND clamped to the tank and pre-routed through their respective openings. Place & glue the tank's isolation rubber pads now. If you want you could also pre-fit one of the fuel tank straps leaving one end loose. Get a support that will hold the tank in place comfortably, it's a bear to try to hold the tank up with one hand while trying to do the next step. First slip on your filler hose clamp onto the filler hose, and then position the tank and carefully work the tank neck into the filler hose. Once you've done that, support the tank and clamp the filler hose to it's neck. Make sure all the vent hoses etc. move into proper position (i.e. no kinks, sharp bends or areas where they'll get clamped shut) and then attach the fuel tank strap to hold the tank properly. Review the filler hose/tank neck connection to make sure the hose isn't kinked or twisted. Attach the other tank strap. On the inside attach your Over flow vent fitting and your vent hoses. That pretty well covers it. FWIW E

Not that I recall from all the years of reading the mods we've done to these cars. Wish I could tell you differently. E

In the picture you post, look where the letter "a" of the word "about" touches the pivot holder. If you look closely you'll see the circle clip that holds the Pivot Shaft in place in the Pivot Holder. That is the round clip. Use a small flat blade screwdriver or scraper to insert between the round clip and the Holder, gently pry upwards (it's easiest if you find the end of the clip) and then push the Pivot Shaft down to help push the clip off. Don't lose the clip! If the shaft is difficult to rotate (and it undoubtedly is), it's also going to be difficult to extract from the holder. Be patient, don't use a hammer (you'll mar the threads) or get creative with a vise or other clamping devises. Simply keep working the shaft out. Once it's out of the holder, look THROUGH the holder hole. It will probably look to be a solid hole, i.e. no "space" or separate bushings inside, but it isn't. In the middle of the shaft hole there IS a space where the lubricating grease is held. The grease in your holder is probably rock hard and will need either wire-brushing, a carefully bent paper clip, or some other manner / form of getting scraped out. Once it's clean, you can re-apply some new grease (waterproof is best) and re-assemble your pivot. FWIW E

The BASIC problem is that you are using a later year alternator in an earlier year wiring circuit. You can go ahead and use all sorts of fancy instruments, data, interpolation of results, statistical analysis and all the fancy terminology you want, but you are still going at this bass ackwards. The reason you're not showing a charge through the Ammeter is basic. By removing the original Voltage Regulator, which included the Ammeter in it's circuitry, and using an internally regulated Alternator (with the Alternator Adapter) that does NOT use it, you've eliminated the Ammeter from the circuit. 2¢ E

Did you "upgrade" the alternator to the internally regulated alternator? If so you need the alternator adapter installed. The stock external regulator AND the internal regulator are providing a dual path for the juice to get to the coil, that's why you're having to kill the power to the coil. Temp gauge... was it installed with teflon tape on the threads? If so, remove it and clean that stuff off. It's insulating the gauge's sensor from completing it's circuit. FWIW E

There's something wrong about the math you propose. Dumping the old acid and replacing with new, ignores the fact that you will have flushed a lot of the plate material out with the acid as well as having left the exchanged ions from the acid on the plate to further obstruct the chemical reaction of the new acid with the old plates. The end result may be that you have a complete 12 volts, but I'm more than sure that your capacity has decidedly dropped. If this math were valid, then you could dump old acid, replace with new ad infinitum and always have a freshly charged battery. Charging the battery doesn't quite "reset" the chemical reaction. Unfortunately there is the basic law of entropy that causes chemical reactions to degrade over time and there isn't a simple "reverse" process that restores everything back to the original state. Lastly, what batteries were you working with that you could "pop the top off and check the plates" so well that you could in turn replace them? I've only seen this type of work done on industrial sized fork-lift batteries and then only in shops that specialized in this kind of work. Surely this is WAY beyond the capabilities of most home garages. The acid containment, disposal as well as the lead handling expertise required would require at least some form of EPA, OSHA, and other form of hazardous waste governing body oversight. Many batteries nowdays are the "low-maintenance" or "maintenance-free" style, meaning that the end user need not address the scope of maintenance you're suggesting as well as possibly voiding whatever warranty might have been purchased when new. Sears Auto as well as many other shops will do an Electrical Charging Check for a nominal fee (Sears charges $10, refundable on battery purchase) or sometimes free. They'll LOAD test your battery which will give you a better indication it's expected serviceability than any visual check could. FWIW E

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive charger (regular list under $35) that will give you both trickle, charge and engine start. I found it to be equivalent to the higher priced Sears Craftsman model at $40. Personally, I'd rather buy the Sears model (USA and all that) BUT for something that on sale will be priced down to $25 or so, and you only use occasionaly.... Sadly, my pocketbook has to come first. E

Charge your battery with a proper battery charger. The alternator will recharge the battery from the nominal amounts used to start, run, and operate the car. When you discharge the battery steadily and to the extent you did (11 hours of headlight drain), the alternator will constantly be trying to catch up to a stored amperage it can't meet quickly (it uses the voltage/amperage capacity from the battery to in turn generate more). It WILL do it, eventually, but only if you're driving every day for an extended period of time. Charge the battery and you'll essentially "refill" the battery. FWIW E

Sorry, but I disagree. The Parking Light Relay will NOT fix this problem. It will only mask the faulty condition for a while by diverting the current from the car's existing circuits to a secondary circuit AFTER the car's fuse. Yes the fuse problem will be "solved" but the inherent PROBLEM will only be exacerbated. While the problem may be in the combination switch and connections, the relay kit does NOT get rid of the problem. The Relay is designed to reduce the current loss to the lights due to the switch and other connections up at the steering column by connecting power DIRECTLY from the battery into the wiring AT the steering column and to the Parking Lamps. It does not REPLACE the wiring to the park lamps, it uses the EXISTING wiring, which is probably what is currently having problems. If the wiring is at fault (as it stands now) all you are doing is putting in a larger source of current to a poor set of "pipes". Can you say.... Melt Down??? The problem that MUST be fixed FIRST, is to determine WHY and HOW you have resistance in the wiring. To simply assume that it needs additional "pressure" behind it is analogous to putting a larger capacity fuel pump on leaky fuel lines figuring that the extra capacity will overcome the loses due to the leaks. Check the BASICS first. Look at all the bulbs, see if there is corrosion in the bulb connectors. Check the wire connections. Determine if your lamps are the ones that require grounding to the body and check that they ARE getting good grounds. Check the ground connections, clean them off anyway when you replace the wire. Clean the fuse box clips, check that the fuses are actually good.... heck for a few bucks replace them. If they're old fuses the chances of the internal connections being partly at fault are good. The "just slap this into it" obviates basic troubleshooting / maintenance techniques and fools us into thinking the problem has been solved... it hasn't. FWIW E

Post on the Help Me! forum, it will get noticed much faster than in Blog area. E

Geeez.... the amount of misinformation in these posts... where to begin??? A LIEN is not a transference of ownership. It is an ENCUMBRANCE on the TITLE of the PROPERTY granted by the OWNER of the PROPERTY to the LIEN HOLDER. It is essentially a "bond" or "promise" by the owner to the lien holder to fulfill a contract. Successful completion of that contract is why the title to the property is being held by the lien holder. Once the contract has been fulfilled, the lien holder in turn releases his lien. The owner cannot sell or otherwise transfer their interest in the property (ownership) without the lien holder concurring by granting either a release of the lien (essentially dismissing it) or by taking out a NEW lien on the NEW title with the new owner, but the Lien Holder has the right of refusal. His LIEN must FIRST be satisfied before title transfership can be effected. This is very common in real estate titles and is the main reason for "title insurance", where someone has researched the title and warrants that it is free from liens and other encumbrances. (This is all very general and I'm sure there will be some who will pull out their semantic magnifying glass to try to "Yes, BUT..." the topic, but it's not relevant to the discussion.) So far, Zed Head has summarized what you need to do best, except I'd first get the Lien dismissed THEN approach the owner by title to release his interest in the car. (There's nothing wrong with doing them the other way around, except that it gets confusing if the lien holder still holds a grudge against the owner of record and the fact that the DMV will not accept the ownership change before the lien release.) Bottom line, get the Lien released, then get the owner of record to release the title to you (typically by signing the Title AFTER the Lien has been RECORDED as RELEASED) by indicating the sale of the vehicle to YOU, then pay the arrears (trust me the DMV will have some, especially Californicate's DMV) and finally then you can get your car's title released AND LEGAL. FWIW E

I'm not familiar with the disk browsing format on a Mac, so with that said here's a fix that works regardless of whether you are using IE or FIREFOX or Netscape. Open the CD for file browing and open the following file folders as they become available: From the root of the CD: ZCD; BASEQ3 PAK YODA Once there you will have a list of files and one folder. The "_VTI_CNF" directory can be ignored. It is the files: INDEX.TXT S30_1a.pdf through S30_8b.pdf That you want. You can copy those to a folder of your choosing on your hard drive. The .txt file give you information as to what file contains what section of the parts manual. Alternatively you can dive right in into the *1a.pdf file and the navigation links within the associated pdf files will begin to work. It cost money to develop that CD, and it is the return on that investment that is helping pay for this website and the club's monthly bills. The club has written authorization to use and copy that microfiche and to distribute it as we are doing. Other "free" sites are just presuming that if they don't get sued, then it must be "ok". Please don't advise others to not buy our CD. Technology has changed in the 10+ years since it was originally issued, some of these work-arounds are necessary because of that. E Scanlon CZCC Moderator

Use the Classifieds for your WTB. Look on the left margin, under the Menu and select Classified Ads. The same name/password that you use here works there. E

Before we go chatizing somebody who is in the business of providing parts for our cars, let's remember a few things.... It IS August... a time of year when many parents decide to do one more quick vacation with the kids before school starts. It's also the time of year when last minute bar-b-ques are held, car shows, car cruise-in's, etc. It's also the "lazy days" of summer, which for a LOT of people aren't the time to be sitting down at a desk immediately responding to queries from the internet. So, while many businesses will respond automatically within 24 hours, this person may be not doing the automated canned response. The question also arises as to whether you actually mean more than 72 hours, or you did this transaction on Tuesday and you're counting Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.... So, let's give him some time. E

Rob/Matt: It sounds as though the wiring going to the electric switch have been "jumbled" OR the wrong switch is being used. I know that one of the members uploaded a continuity / terminal test check of the ignition switch which would help you determine if it's the switch or not. Additionally, looking at the wiring schematic would allow you to determine if the right wires are going to the proper terminals. I added what you had sent to me via PM's to this post, (and I hope no offense is taken), as I felt this explanation did more to clarify the problem, and thereby hoping to get you a solution. I'll check my stash of pictures and see if I can find the connector pin-out. E

Will: Your best bet is to post it at: http://www.311s.org/phpBB2/index.php They could be considered the Sport Roadster equivalent of this site. They have forums and many knowledgeable people that will readily appreciate your car. You may have to register there as you did here, but it's easy and I've sent you the password via this site's private message form. (It's not a major secret, but we keep it somewhat on the hush hush to avoid the Spam Morons who insist on polluting forums with their filth.) This is where you can begin your registration: http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/ucp.php?mode=register I'm also a moderator there and just make sure that you post at least a starting price in your ad (ad's without price get deleted). Enrique Scanlon Moderator

The whisker trim has been bought by some members from JCWhitney. The part number was given in a prior post, by Beandip if memory serves. E

In the meantime send Mike (that's his handle and name) a PM, he's the owner of the site and also sells the CD. He'll PM you back with $ and availability. E

Hundreds of threads on just this subject. Do a search with your thread title. In a nutshell, your resistor may be connected to the ignition circuit, but your Tach has been excluded or vice-versas. If it's the resistor that isn't part of the circuit you're potentially burning your points over too much voltage being fed through the coil. E