EScanlon

I agree with 2MZ's. Motor heard running...electrical check ok. Wipers can be moved manually with the motor turned off...link to motor gone. Remove the arms, then the cowl, then check the nut and the arm that holds everything to the motor. Like 2MZ said, you're probably just missing that connection. To correct it you may have to remove the motor and the arms from the bay to make it easier. With that being the case, take the time to disassemble the wiper arm bushing holders (that's the thing that bolts to the car and the wiper mechanism rod goes through), check for play, regrease them then reassemble them. I've heard of people using spark plug wiper boots in an emergency, instead of the wiper boots. Grease all of the linkages for the wipers before you return the assembly to the car. Take a minute to ensure that you clean out any leaves / debris that may be in the cowl bucket area. Replace cowl but note the following WARNING!! BEFORE YOU REPLACE THE WIPER ARMS!!! Connect the motor to the harness, then get inside and turn the key in the ignition lock to "run", i.e. that position that it falls back to after the starter has started the engine. Let the wiper motor cycle back to "park" Then before you go mounting wipers, turn ON the wipers and observe the shafts as you turn on and turn off the motor a couple times. Ensure that when the wiper motor STARTS it turns the shafts CLOCKWISE from the STOPPED and INITIAL position. If it is going COUNTER-CLOCKWISE you will scrape your cowl and hood with the wiper arms. If the arms are going clockwise, turn off the wiper motor AT THE SWITCH, let the park function operate, then mount your wiper arms at the lowest position on the windshield, such that they are barely touching the windshield gasket rubber. 2¢

I hear you on getting rid of the parts car...My problem is that I can only park 4 cars in the driveway, in front of the 2 car garage that's jammed packed with tools and other crap, and with my Z, the 68 Roadster and the parts car, I would have to bump my wife's Subaru out onto the street where my Acura currently resides. I'm working on the garage, but it's been easier said than done.

So you are looking for an OLD USED VIRGIN! Sounds like an oxymoron to me.......j/k

Ok, let's see.... 1-1/2 car garage.... Xterra- out in the rain, it's supposedly a "Sports" Utility Vehicle so the rain will do it good. 260 - get a racing car trailer, put it in there. You don't want the local tree apes in the neighborhood messing around in or around it. You can tow the trailer behind the Xterra. 66 Mustang- it's getting restored, no problem for now. When it gets back......sell it. They're cute, but it's no Z and besides you can always find another one, heck they're still making the darn thing. New Mustang - It's under warranty and should be no problem out in the rain. If it isn't then you can sue Ford and get a new one. 71 240 - Needed to fill the space in the garage, as well as ensure that it stays in good condition. The other half of the garage ----- the Motorcycle!! I think that about covers it.

Why not sell whatever SHE'S driving. If she wants a new Mustang let her be the one to sacrifice...... Remember, SAVE THE Z!! Collect one of each model!!!! or better yet let ME collect them all.. 2¢

2¢ Have the undercarriage checked out by a body shop (since you don't have prior welding experience), and have them give you an estimate on repairing those rust holes. While you're at it have them check the outside to ensure that you're not looking at something more major than just surface rust. Whether or not it disuades you from continuing with the project will be up to you, i.e. how much money to work with it. Rust can be a killer, I've seen vehicles with otherwise good running gear (engine, tranny, rear end) with bodies that simply do not have what it takes to be considered for restoration. (i.e. it would be easier to replace the body, or transplant the running gear into a good body with bad gear) If you address the rust early enough it can be managed, if you wait, it might kill the car out from your engine overhaul etc. Just my 2¢

Mike: One of the biggest considerations in painting a car in pieces or as a unit will be the type of paint you paint with. Metallic paints are notorious for having a different "look" when painted separately and then assembled. Same with Pearls and other paints with additives in the paint. Generally, you would do the interior and underside of the pieces (doors, fenders, hatch and jambs) first, then have the whole unit at least put together, although not bolted, and then paint the exterior as one unit. Then again, it's also up to the painter and the booth he has to work with. 2¢

Since the car hasn't run in a while, you might check the Vacuum Advance plate inside the distributor. These are notorious for drying out, cracking and dropping the ball bearings inside the dizzy. The end result is that the dizzy won't stay on time. When you adjust it you might be adjusting with the vacuum plate off center, then when the vacuum does kick in it moves it out etc etc. This plate sits below the point table in the dizzy. My car had a backfiring problem, when I took it in to the mechanic to be tuned up, he pointed this part as being the culprit. 2¢

I bought mine at the Paint Store. Now granted, this one has both Automotive and House paint as well as all the different types of body working materials you want. I would check for a automotive paint supply house, ask them if they have products by Evercoat. (They also produce Plastic Body Filler (aka Bondo except BONDO is a trademark name). Then ask specifically for the Q-Pads and describe them as tar paper pads. As far as being the "original" stuff, well, it's as close as I could find. Granted Datsun used a single sheet / cutout for each of the floor pans and hatch area, and you'll have to piece it together, but I'm happy with it. I also applied it OVER the POR so I won't be making the same mistake that Datsun did by applying it over plain galvanized metal. I don't recall who or where I got the information about Dynamat having some fiber inside. Like I said, I've not used their product and therefore can't really comment on it. I went mainly for ease of purchasing it, and price. 2¢

Q-Pads are manufactured by Fibre Glass Evercoat Company, or simply Evercoat. They are simply Tar with a thin film on the outside and adhesive on the back. You peel off the protective plastic film to expose the adhesive and adhere it to wherever you are mounting it to. They cut quite readily with a utility knife although I found it easier to use a rotary blade cutter. (Available at fabric shops and EXTREMELY sharp!) If shaping or moulding is required a simple hair drier or heat gun works very well. Additionally heating them causes the adhesive to adhere more firmly. I've heard that Dynomat has an additional layer of fibre within it, but have not seen the actual product. 2¢

Got a reply from the guy that sold them to me. Hope this helps!

Sorry Mudge, the VIN breakdown for the 240's gives only very basic information as to model, engine, left or right hand drive etc. Color codes are not part of it. About the only "option" code that would be on the VIN is whether it was an Automatic or not. And even then I'm not sure how accurate that was as mine is an automatic and the VIN on my car doesn't have it listed. 2¢

I've not used this, and I have heard GREAT things about it. However, one of the things I've heard about it is it's cost. A package of Q-Pads with 6 12"x12" squares is about $20.00 U.S. at my local Paint Store. A quick check of Eastwood says Quiet Pads 12"x12" box of 5 = $19.99 US. Granted they also sell it in two other variations, Original and Hood Liner. For my purposes it was cheaper to go with the Q-Pads. 2¢

I think this question really needs to be broken down a bit more before a generalized answer can be given. The Jute padding in use underneath the transmission vinyl is used PRIMARILY for Heat Insulation, although it also serves as a sound attenuator. The Tar Paper on the floor pan is PRIMARILY a Sound Attenuator although it does give a bit of thermal insulation. In the case of the Jute Padding, it is putting a multi layer air and material substance to block the heat and sound. The "dead" air spaces cause the thermal energy to lose energy as it passes from level to level. The sound is mitigated the same way. The Tar Paper on the other hand, is reducing the harmonic vibration of the metal by adding a viscous layer to the metal. This in essence is simply like putting a damper on a vibrating piece of metal, it quiets it by reducing the vibrations that metal can do. Just like a speaker cone, put your finger on a speaker as it plays and see if the sound doesn't diminish. The thermal insulation it offers is simply due to the increased thickness and the difference in the thermal properties of the materials (steel vs tar). Now, to answer your question, and you'll see why I had to explain the "obvious". I just did this, this past summer. I removed the complete interior and sandblasted the metal. I followed that with the proper metal cleaning and preparation for a total POR paint job all over the floor pan. From the Cowl Bucket to the Tail Lights. I used POR for rust proofing and as a MOISTURE BARRIER to prevent further rusting. I then followed this up with Q-Pads. Again from the front to the back, as well as inside the doors and fenders, even inside the tool boxes. Yes, they are a bit on the heavy side, but I wanted QUIET and not LIGHT WEIGHT. This gave me SOUND INSULATION. I saved and reused my original jute padding for the transmission tunnel, but I had investigated a couple options. First off, you can still get jute. The problem comes in in trying to cut it to shape. Next option is an item that is called Reconstituted Foam Rubber. This is basically pieces of Sponge Rubber that have been glued together to form a sheet. Most commonly seen as under carpet padding. This is more resilient than the single sheet of new foam as it won't tear as easy. Another option is to use the item mentioned by St. Stephen, or another one that uses "bubble" wrap instead of fiber. Both of these will provide THERMAL insulation primarily, the sound attenuation, although there, will be less than that offered by the Q-Pads. My carpetting already had some thick padding sewn into it, and I also added the car mats. So I have about an 1-1/2" of carpetting on the main floor pan and about 3/4" everywhere else. The Transmission tunnel has both the Q-Pad AND the original Jute and the vinyl. The rear wheel wells have just the vinyl. The reason for just the vinyl there is that the metal is double thickness and very little heat / sound is transmitted through there. If you ride in my car today, you would be surprised at how QUIET it is. Granted, I still have to get the rear end and the tranny overhauled, but that's next on the list. For What It's Worth, hope it helps someone. Enrique Scanlon

2MZs answered your question. You might look at boneyards, and although used, they should be able to find you a good pair. Try All Z East in Gresham Oregon, he can ship for you. Ask for Mike, 800-533-5659 or 503-666-5659 2¢

Check zhome.com for starters. That might get you what you are looking for. However, your question doesn't specify what it is you are looking for, so it makes it kind of hard. What specifically are you looking for? Weight, firing sequence, torque specs, fastener sizes, are all items that would be listed in the Factory Shop Manual (FSM) as well as the Haines. Also let us know what year of 240 you have, as weights did change on that model. 2¢

Mike: Call Mike at All Z East, they're moving out a lot of parts and cars and he should be able to find you a pair in good condition. His number is 800-533-5659, and you can either drive up to Gresham or have them shipped to you. 2¢

I own a manual Acura Legend, a Subaru Legacy, a 68 Roadster 2000 and I thoroughly enjoy the feel and response of the manual transmission. My Z was an Automatic from the factory, and although I would not have specifically searched for it as an automatic, I can't say I am displeased with it. I can understand your point about the "lag" between pushing down on the pedal and the response to the pavement, and I can empathize. However, I also enjoy driving the Z, so I take exception to your last sentence. While you may not care nor want for an automatic tranny, they are, in my opinion, quite capable of doing the job. Would I contemplate changing the tranny in mine? Probably not. Would I buy a second Z with an automatic tranny? Maybe, but not because of the tranny, but rather for having a SECOND Z, or a third or fourth..... I will admit that in my ORIGINAL wish, the car was manual, but when the possibility of realizing my dream of owning a Z became real, and the car was an automatic, I didn't hesitate, I bought it. I guess that to me, it was MORE important to own the Z than what transmission it had. But then this is the beauty of the car. I could change the tranny if I wanted to race it, but then again, I have raced it with the Automatic. It becomes a matter of choice. There are those that don't like the 920 Gold paint on my car. I admit that my personal preference would have been either the Yellow or Red, but again, a Z in the garage is worth 2 in someone elses. 2¢

Alan: I agree with you, I doubt that they reversed the logo for the LHD market. I was going off of Kats' drawing, and I'm not doubting what he drew, but it may have been reversed in his memory. That he could recall the switch with as much detail at all is remarkable. I will check the hazard switch I have and determine how best to connect it to do the fog lamp switching, as well as figuring out a way of erasing the old double triangle logo and engraving the light. This will be interesting, I'll post my results in a picture later. Again, both you and Kats have exceeded my hopes and reaffirmed the value of this forum. Thanks again Enrique Scanlon

Kats, you are an exceptional human being. You and Alan have highlighted in these past few posts how valuable this type of world wide interaction is. Alan's knowledge on the Z car is encyclopaedic and your input from Japan gives those of us in the U.S. a glimpse of a whole world we sometimes, unwittingly, ignore. Kats, since you have and, I presume, are restoring a LHD Z, if there are items from the U.S. that would make your project go a bit easier, please let me know as I will be indebted to you, and would like to reciprocate in kind. I'll reply to your mail with my address and information. Let me know how much the shipping is, and I'll reimburse you via PayPal. Also let me know what the PayPal Fee is and I'll include that in my transfer. Enrique Scanlon

Top coating POR can be done very easily IF you do it shortly after having applied the POR. POR's instructions state that it can be top coated with their or other products if you wait till the paint still has some "finger drag" stickiness, but NOT wet. I've done it both ways, I've top coated when it got to the finger drag AND I've scuff / wet sanded the finish after it was completely dry. In this manner , POR behaves like regular paint. Regular Paint adheres to the base by either Chemical or Mechanical means. Chemical is when it can "melt" into the base, that is, the thinner, solvent, or propellant softens the base coating enough that the paint can then combine with the base at that level and bind to it. Mechanical is when you've scratched the surface such that there are valleys and ridges that give the new paint "teeth" to hold on to. POR however, has it's TOP COAT PRIMER which softens the previous application enough to accept the next layer of paint. While there is a product called "Jamb-It" which will soften old paints enough to accept a new coat of paint, it is limited in it's effectiveness. I've not used the Top Coat Primer so I cannot attest to it's performance. POR is very specific on it's recommendation for the BEST method of application. It recommends that you first degrease the surface with their Marine Clean product. This stuff WILL make your hands feel all slippery for hours afterward so use gloves, but it does an EXCELLENT job of getting rid of the greases and oils etc that will marr a good paint job. You then follow this with their Metal Prep solution which will do a good job of etching the metal as well as leaving a thin anti-rust coating on it (again, make sure you wear gloves!). I believe it's a Zinc Phosphate layer, but I may be wrong. Then you paint the POR directly onto the metal that's been prepared as I described. In my experience, when you DON'T follow this procedure, the POR tends to "pull" or "streak" along your brush strokes. Very reminiscent of a fish-eye except that now it is a long line. The POR won't stick, and it won't cover. This happened EVERY time I tried to short cut the process and didn't Marine Clean and Metal Prep. I finally gave in and just made it part of the procedure. You do not need to use a different primer before you use the POR. You can, but the instructions advise against that, saying that you will not gain the benefit of the POR's rust-proofing ability. What it does say, is that if you need to do some smoothing to either use their epoxy or apply a primer surfacer to the finished POR. Personally, as good as POR is, I don't know that I would use it on the exterior parts of the panels. I would rather D/A the fender to the metal, then using an etching primer, preferably epoxy, I would use that as my base, then finish the panel as needed, relying on the primer/filler/ paint combination to protect the metal from the exterior elements. In my case, I used POR for those areas that I was not trying to do a wet sand mirror like finish. That is, the inside of the front fenders, the floor pans, the gas tank, the wiper cowl bucket, the front wheel wells as well as the valance and sugar scoop undersides. In the case of the front valance, I also used POR's "finger drag" method of applying their satin finish exterior POR, and the results are excellent. I really like the stuff for those areas that will be hidden, but need to be protected, and that's what I used it for. One note, POR IS UV SENSITIVE! This means that if it is exposed to sunlight will eventually gain a "milky" appearance. This is normal and not a failure of the paint or painter. If this would be objectionable then the instructions tell you to top coat it either with their exterior use products or some other top coating. By the way Zach, I'm in Vancouver, WA. If you want give me an e-mail and we can compare notes and I can even show you a bunch of photos I took of my project. Hope this helps.

I guess I'm the cheap ba$tard. I always start my project with good old Soap and Water. Nothing incredibly fancy either, just the good old car-wash solution that I use to give the car it's first wash of the year (my daily driver). The soap claims to be bio-degradeable, it is hot fluorescent pink in color, and it only takes an ounce or two per 3-5 gallons. I have mixed it with HOT water and also made super concentrated solutions of the stuff at times, but usually the soap and water and some elbow grease and it removes the bulk of the dirt. Now granted, I'm not getting into the engine compartment and tackling turning a grease turd into a beautiful machine as some of these guys have done. 2¢

Wick Humble in his book "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" in referring to the color / paint used on the tail-light finishers, calls it "a silver-gray 'match scratcher' finish, which retains all sorts of contaminants, ESPECIALLY paste wax." (emphasis mine). To my recollection it is the same color / paint used on the front grille as well. At least for U.S. based cars. The formula for the original paint is a Datsun Secret, probably forgotten. Taking liberty and copying from the book, Wick's recipe is: Ditzler Duracryl DDl 2862 Argent with quite a lot of suede additive. The specific formula is: " 1 pint DDL 200 units DX265 300 units DX264 Thin 100-150% and spray on fairly dry. (skip) This paint should NOT have gloss, so don't expect any" (emphasis mine). Due to the difficulty in getting the paint matched, the problems with the finish, and the fact that it was an ~odd~ color AND appearance, most people who owned Z's in the early 70's would routinely paint this with either Flat Black or Semi-Flat / Gloss Black. 2¢

OK Guy said it, and probably shorter than I would have. Think of a paint job as sun-tanning. where you don't remove the clothing (emblems, etc) you don't get tanned. Where you apply poor sun-tanning lotion (preparation) you get poor results. And if you don't do it at the right time (humidity, temp, wind) you might not get what you want at all. 2¢

I very respectfully BOW to both of you! What you have posted has been of supreme and outstanding value. Kats, your drawing of the switch matches what I can make out on the picture that Alan posted. I find it very interesting that the sequence of the 3 dashes above the Heater Panel is reversed (as far as LHD cars). That is the Clock is on the furthest Left as opposed to the furthest right for LHD vehicles. Then the switches show the same logo as Kats' picture BUT the symbol seems to have been reversed, that is, the rays shining to the Left while Kats' shine to the right. Truly MINOR detail, and maybe it's my incorrect interpretation, but that would be an interesting point to find out. I've posted this before and I'll repeat myself. This is an EXCELLENT example of how valuable this forum is to this hobby. Kats, or Alan, do you think either one of you might be able to find one of those Fog Lamp Switches? If not, I do have a spare Hazard Flasher that I might be able to convert for the purpose. Thank you again! The pictures, the discussion and everything!