EScanlon

Get the Kyosho! I have several of these and the Kyosho are by far even better in detail and accuracy than the Franklin Mint one. 2¢

Admit it, you either rode around all night with the Refrigerator sitting next to you, and sand bags in the cargo hatch OR a friend of yours has put lead in every body cavity on the car. All this in the space of an hour? Hmmm, sounds a little too incredible.

James240 actually said what I meant to say better. What I meant by my post is that if done with care and precision on a platform that definitely supports the modification, it will look nice, professional and most of all appropriate. If not, however, it will look poor. I agree with James, too many times the V8 conversion doesn't stop at just swapping out the engine, they go on and on adding on things that purportedly will make it a) faster, louder, c) more impressive; and unfortunately, end up leaving the car like the second individual in my original post. That is, fine as far as the individual is concerned, but everyone else has doubts. I wasn't referring to your car as any of the things you posted. My main point then, was that too many mods are done without thought to anything other than your own internal mind's eye, and sometimes that fails to take into account many other salient factors. 2¢

But in Australia they measure from Right to Left as opposed to from Left to Right as we do here in the U.S.. Mike: the market I was referring to was that on-line market that would put the logo on the t-shirts, mouse pads, coffee cups etc. Know you were looking into something like that, but don't know if you ever did or what you finally did.

Car's not yet being reworked, so not yet, but I'd be interested. By the way Mike, what club type stuff did you contract to get at that market? Enrique

I apologize up front to anyone that may be offended by this analogy: Years ago, I met two transexual women. (People born Male who changed their sex to Female) One of them was absolutely drop dead gorgeous, and I found it totally unbelievable that she used to be a man. I accepted her word for it, but I could never be absolutely sure unless....... and I didn't care to pursue. The other one was so drastically obviously a man in a dress, (imagine Mike Tyson in a short dress!) as to make you shudder. As far as the first woman, the change / modification was so obvious as to be justifiable in and of itself. The second is what some modifications remind me of. Not only did the question WHY? comes to mind, but also that feeling of what a shame. That's the problem with some modifications. Some are obvious and some are mistakes to everyone but the person who did the mod. When it comes to engine transplants, if the original car is in good to excellent condition and it is complete, then I suggest you sell it to someone who WANTS the car in THAT condition. Then buy a car that needs or would benefit from the engine transplant. My 2¢, hopefully I haven't offended anyone.

I have a 71 so can't say that I would have something equivalent to look at to help you out, but have heard that that is the location for the fusible link box. You also don't mention the color of the wires going into that connector nor the color of the wires on the wiring harness where it connects. That may be a big help in getting it identified.

Ozlime: Give Andy Russell, the Datsun Dude, an e-mail at: z@datsundude.com He is the guy you see on e-Bay with the Firewall Grommet Kits, as well as the Hood Bumper etc. He's knowledgeable on how to ship to Australia as well. I forget how much he asks for the kit, but I guarantee it's reasonable, and the parts are OEM. Enrique Scanlon

N/M

Friend of mine had the same problem, he said he finally solved it by smacking from the front. Yes, the front. This is how he did it. Align the studs so that they are in a "diamond", i.e. one at the 12, one at 3, 6 and 9 as if they were the points on a clock. Then smack with a dead blow rubber hammer at the 2 o'clock position and if necessary at the 7, then the 11 and 5. Rotate about an "hour" and repeat. The point you are smacking is the outermost flat part of the drum just as it starts to curve back towards the differential. The intent is to get the drum to "****" itself and when it does to smack on the exact opposite side. This movement will get it dislodged. A preventative measure he did, and have no news yet as to how good it is, nor what the long term effects are, is to apply a thin coating of Never Seize compound around the center hole in the drum and very lightly on the flat face of the lug hub where it comes into contact with the brake drum. I emphasize that he said a LIGHT coating, just enough to get it to not rust and not stick. Hope this helps.

You CAN disassemble the switch almost in it's entirety, but you MUST be able to work with very small pieces. I'm referring to the tiny springs and contacts in the switch itself. If you have difficulty working with them, I would suggest you get a new switch. 2¢

That's the float / resistor installed in the tank that "sends" the signal to your fuel gauge.

Contact: M.B. ANDERSON CO 1814 N.E. 99th St. Vancouver, WA 98665 360-573-7314 He has been working Datsun /Nissan for over 25 years and with his Dad before that. I'll tell you up front that he works by appointment and he's not necessarily the cheapest, but he'll guarantee his work and I know from personal experience that your baby will be PURRRRRRRINGGG. If you ask any of the CarQuest, Shucks, Baxter's, NAPA guys in the Vancouver area, they'll all refer you to M.B. Anderson for your 240.

The 70 and 71 240's did not have the automatic retractable seat belts that the later ones did. Trying to retro fit a 72 and higher into the 70/71 would be difficult as the seat belt retract mechanism fits into a "cup" on the floorboard. I have seen aftermarket "replacement" seat belt mechanisms that are retractable. Don't know right off hand what brand would be available in Australia, but surely you have access to a company like JC Whitney. Hope this helps.

First off: the 240 does not have an electronic "brain" / "box" / computer / or other components within the ORIGINAL circuitry. Now, if you've completely changed the wiring, etc to include those components then you are no longer dealing with a 240 wiring, and must deal with your car accordingly. Read the following articles found at these URL's: http://www.mame.mu.oz.au/salman/zignitio.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/TechPosts.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm These are but a few of them. You will note that unless you are dealing with a Pertronix or MSD, they all point out that the ballast goes. Now this information is SPECIFIC to the 240Z. NOT the 260 or the 280, nor any other vehicle. All I can tell you is this. The modification has been done on my car. My mechanic has over 25 years of experience working EXCLUSIVELY with Datsun / Nissan. He's checked and approved all the connections in the engine bay. If you want, I'll give you his name and you can set up an appointment for your car. But enough, that's just my 2¢

DITCH the resistor! The 240 does not have a computer nor a bunch of complicated wiring to muck up the old basic wiring system. By adding the electronic distributor, the resistor is only working to heat up the air. Disconnect it and you should be able to hook the wires together just as it says in the article you quoted. That's the way it is on mine. Enjoy the ride

I could only find references to the 300zx and not the 240. Was this a special order you did? If so, what are you planning on getting veneered?

I had this same problem. Drove my mechanic and I nuts. We finally solved it this way, he hooked up a test light in line with the positive pole of the battery and the positive battery wire. This way we could monitor that the draw was / was not there as we unplugged and replugged in components. We eventually traced it to a bad accessory relay. That's the one mounted on the top of the passenger kick panel, all the way on top. The minute we disconnected it, the light went out. Hooked in a new one, made the contact to ground to finish the circuit, and VOILA no drain. Note that the clock will still drain intermitently if functioning properly, but it is NOT a continuous drain. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Since I was looking for Black at the time I got them, and he had black, I didn't inquire on other colors. That phone number I gave is for his business, leave a message if you don't get a hold of him directly and he'll either call you back, or if you leave your e-mail he'll contact you that way. The SEM or even the Eastwood Vinyl Paint will work very well. The key to this is preparation. Since you would be working with NEW panels, you wouldn't have years of finger grime and silicone protectants to clean off before you could paint. As to the panels themselves, they are complete and ready to install. They include the felt wiper for the window, the metal backing, the washer trim around your lock mechanism, the silver trim. The only things they don't include are the window cranks, door lock handle, the escutcheon, Grab Handle. I'm sure that if you bought them, and painted them, you would be extremely pleased.

NEED the following items: 71 Hatch Cardboard / Vinyl, the piece that goes ON the hatch to hide the space in there. It is a long rectangular with rounded corners and vinyl covering. Would like as straight and blemish free as possible. 71 Driver's Rear Plastic Piece, the one that hides the Antenna. On closer inspection, mine has too many cracks and holes to work with. 71 Driver's Quarter Window Vinyl Dog Leg, the one that has the silver trim below the window. Would like as straight and blemish free, chrome plastic strip should be blemish free also. Please contact me as to what price you want for the item(s). My zip code is 98685, if you choose to investigate shipping costs, which I would reimburse you for, as well as packaging costs. Thank You in Advance: Enrique Scanlon

Contact Andy Russel at 480-217-7322 or e-Mail him at z@datsundude.com He sells the original 70-73 Interior Door Panels, in the original format for $255 a pair. That price includes the clips and receiver plugs. You can't beat that price ANYWHERE. I bought a set from him and they are perfect. Enrique Scanlon

The first few digits of the Vin tell you all the information contained within. The code is as follows for 240Z/260Z/280Z: G H L S30 ##### BLANK = Coupe G = 2+2 H = L24 (240Z) R = L26 (260Z) H = L28E (280Z) L = Left Hand Drive Blank = Right Hand Drive S30 = Car Model ##### = Serial Number The 280ZX and up had their own enumeration. Sorry, the Vin does not have the information you are looking for unless you are talking a 300ZX after 2/89

Toggle Style: Unscrew the round chrome bolt from around the body of the shaft. If necessary you can either use a small spanner wrench or an e-clip plier to get it started. If you don't have either one of those, use a small allen wrench with the 90 degree angle and tap lightly counter-clockwise on one of the holes and it should start. Push Pull Style: Knob head is a bayonet fit, i.e. push in lightly, turn in one direction (I don't recall which one) and knob will come off shaft. Then the chrome bezel is just like the toggle.

We ARE talking about a Honda CRX aren't we? So, it IS conceivable that half that time he spent just reving his engine up, and then shot forward nailing the cop........

This is the URL for the synopsis of the early history of the 240Z. This was written by Carl Beck whom many consider to be one of the authoritative figures when it comes to Z information. http://zhome.com/History/history.html <a href="http://zhome.com/History/history.html"> Z History </a> In there is where I got the information regarding the Project Z story.