EScanlon

Use your standard 2 or 3 inch putty scraper available at most paint stores. Grind a thin edge to it, on one side only, run the edge under the edge of the tar paper and give it a light tap with the heel of your hand. More than likely it will come off in chunks and will only be a small while before it's all out of there. I wouldn't use Chemical until the very last few small spots, otherwise you'll just melt it and it will be everywhere. The hammer? Yikes guys, you're trying to get RID of problems, why introduce more?

The donated kidney is neither your card to play, nor can you accrue any kind of benefit from that without coming off as a leeching opportunistic scoundrel. Donating the kidney was your DAD'S idea. HE chose to give the kidney, YOU did NOT have any part of that decision making process, and also would not and could not have affected the decision. If you delude yourself into thinking you could have, or that you deserve something for that, you're wrong. I'll guarantee that if you bring it up to your Uncle in any manner, fashion, or form, he'll shut you down faster than a trap door spider with a bug. Simply put, it's none of your concern, nor your business. As far as what he SHOULD do because of that kidney donation? Again, that's between him and your Dad. Sorry, but there are no easy answers in life; there are lots of compromises; and sometimes what you want and what you get aren't in the same arena.

kmack: Were you using a higher wattage bulb than that that is "standard" for the car? I've read in several posts that if you are just replacing the lights with the same wattage (voltage is the same) as what the car had originally that you don't need to do a complete rewire. Since that's the phase of my project right now, I want to make sure. Thanks in advance. Enrique

Surprise, surprise, surprise! I was not aware of this at all. I was under the impression that the additional code prefixes were just that prefixes and not completely new series. Alan, just for my own curiosity, could you post where you got that from so I can peruse or order a copy? I'm kind of building a library on the Z and this is one of those items that is definitely going to need "Right Here, read this!" proof. I'm not doubting you, but I'm sure there will be some folks that will doubt ME. By the way Wally, I also did a few years in the AF. I was NCO, whereas you may be CO. If so, did you run into a Col. Howe? He also bought a 70 Z when it first came out in 70 while he was studying in the Academy. Then he kept it throughout his tour. I helped him restore it back in 88 or so, and would love to contact him to find out how the car fared thereafter. I lost contact with him back in '90. Enrique Scanlon (SSgt.) 379 BMW / OMS Supply Liaison

Galen: Fuel Proof Paint: I used Formula U Fuel Proof Polyurethane Clear Varnish because it specifically said Polyurethane and the article in Sport Z magazine recommended that style of paint. I also had access to Top Flite LustreKote Crystal Clear which is also High Gloss and Fuel Proof, but it is a Polyester Resin. Having used both in my Radio Control Boats, and finding both to be very satisfactory paints, I opted for the Formula U ONLY because the article said Polyurethane. Both of these are available from your local R/C hobby store. I believe Beandip just used a regular MinWax Clear, but haven't been able to reach him on the phone to find out. When I do, I'll tell him to post. Regarding getting together: Currently my car is up on blocks as I do some of the necessary work in order to get it back to the shop to get the spindle pins and rear end fixed. Beandip's IS up and rolling. Send me a Private Message and we can see about getting together for a brew or whatever. Enrique

I vote for just Z The MAIN logo for the site incorporates this into a logo very very nicely, and it would look just great on a T-Shirt or Polo, especially if we remove the wording on the red part. Just the Z. Besides, people WILL ask about it, and that gives us a chance to talk it up!

You could bypass it, but that might cause the wiring and bulbs to burn out or over heat. The Dimmer Switch is a simple Rheostat Coil with a Wiper Contact. If you remember your slot cars, you'll recall the speed control. It had a single wiper contact that slid over this coil of wire. As it slid over the coil it changed the resistance in the circuit and hence the current. That's how this one works. It may be that the coil has become corroded and will not allow contact, OR that the wiper arm has been bent up by someone reaching back there and getting it caught on a sleeve. You CAN check the functionality of the bulbs by shorting the dimmer switch, but if the bulbs ARE burnt out, you will not think that the dimmer switch is NOT at fault when that may have been in fact what precipitated all this. 2¢

Your uncle wants to get rid of a car quickly. You feel that that car is going to be more roadworthy than the Z, yet you are obviously torn in the thought of getting "rid" of the Z. Ok, combine all, put into the thought blender and what about this idea: Approach your local bank for a signature loan that your uncle co-signs. Borrow $2000 and put up the titles to BOTH the Caprice AND the Z as collateral (presuming the Z is paid for). Keep the Z and work on it as you are able to. Make your payments to the bank and buy the Caprice. You'll accomplish several things this way. 1. You'll establish sound credit. Trust me you'll need this later. 2. You get a more reliable car in the Caprice and can now get to work, school and the parts store to get parts for the Z. 3. You get to KEEP the Z and as you fix it and learn from it, it will accrue in value. Right now, if it has problems it will be hard for you to get $2k for it. 4. Eventually once the Z is fixed and running well, you could sell the Caprice and use whatever you get for it to final the Z to your hearts content. Is there a sacrifice involved? Yes, but There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch! TANSTAAFL! Welcome to life as an adult.

I note that other people have seen the similarities to other "clubs" out there. IZCC has been used, so has ZCCA, ZCAR has also been used. Z Driver is yet another site. Trying to stand out by using the shortest, I would vote for just plain old "Z". The logo would be as it is already in use on the home page, you could register the other names and point them here. If you MUST use a lengthy name, then realize that the internet plays a large part of the club, and therefore we have posters from other countries, Denmark and Australia and France to name a few. Why not Zed-Z? The English and Aussies get their Zed in there (yes you Canadians do also) and the rest of the world gets their Z. So in that respect, I'm with Guy-Geo. But then, in keeping with the KISS principle.... Z.org So, by not voting, (cause I'm not particular to any one of the names posted) I'm hoping to get a write-in.

The 70 and early 71 dashes were one style, and could be discerned from the others by the LACK of an indent to the left of the Hazard Switch. Also, typically, the hole ABOVE the Hazard Switch may or may not be open to accept a Fog Lamp Switch, although some people would install lighters there and not in the fuse / ashtray cover in the center console. The Late 71 and 72 dashes were another style, this one DID have the indent to the left of the Hazard Switch for placing a label / decal that denoted the operation of the Hazard switch. Sometime in late 72 or early 73, I'm not sure, and since my car is a 71 haven't researched, there was a Manufacturer change. Technically the parts were supposed to be identical, but they are not as witnessed by these posts. Hope this helps other people.

Since this forum is hopefully used by many people, I felt it necessary to post the warning. Acid, like Paint Stripper is an EXCELLENT tool, IF you know what you are doing. But not knowing, and attempting to learn on the job without someone watching over you who DOES know is like packing your own parachute and hoping you get it right. That you know the difference between full strength and diluted (and I'll bet that the "diluted" was even diluted from it's full Molal solution) is the key here. I saw a guy who claimed to know how to use paint stripper apply it first to the FENDER of his car, THEN he proceeded to apply it to the hood. While he was applying it to the hood, he inadvertently leaned into the fender with his crotch. 5 minutes later he started screaming from the burning from the stripper. Then he got the lacquer thinner he was using to "cut" the stripper and applied some very liberally to the area in the hopes of stopping the burn. THAT was the completely WRONG thing to do, as he then made it worse. Yes he cut the stripper BUT THE LACQUER THINNER ALSO STINGS ON YOUR SOFTER TISSUES. When I saw what had happened, I grabbed the water hose and doused him. Would you believe the guy was mad cause I splashed water on his fender and hood in trying to put his "fire" out? Warnings are NOT to stop knowledgeable people from doing the job, they're made to stop people from assuming that it is something they can do with no knowledge. Just my 2¢

Et s'y on l'utilize a l'autre maniere....tu peut penser aux poissons.

ACID IS DANGEROUS! IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO WORK WITH IT, IT CAN HURT / KILL / MAIM YOU. Knowledge of how to work with other acids is NOT to be considered knowledge of ALL acids. There are some acids out there that will literally explode in the right atmostphere. If you don't know about it, I wouldn't muck with it. Acid is one of those items that has hundreds of stories that begin with "If only I had known..." OR "Everyone WARNED me, but...". I would recommend you get a product called Metal Ready. It is sold by the folks who sell POR-15. It is a ready mixed solution that will both remove rust and pre-etch the metal for any kind of paint, primer, or POR-15 product. I've used it and it works very nicely. It is relatively inexpensive, and if you filter out the gunk, is reuseable. Cure time is not measured in hours but in minutes, and did a superb job on my Gas Tank. Since the areas you are referring to are notoriously prone to rust, you are better off doing the job right with what others have found works rather than trying to forge a new method. Metal Ready, POR-15 and their Reinforcing Mesh, or plain old Welding New Metal are the best ways of dealing with these areas.

Thank you for clearing it up, I knew it was something specific to Japan and the only part of the conversation I could recall was the reference to the angle of view. Seems I had my data messed up. Sounds as if you have no objection to spending a lot of money, these are an accessory to have. At that point, buy a pair of Japanese Fenders, with the holes already drilled. While you are at it, get a pair of Japanese Doors so that you wouldn't have to weld and shut the holes you currently DO have, then mix and swap and VOILA an American Fairlady. Let us know how it goes Erik

That is the style in Japan. As far as I know ALL the Fairlady Z's in Japan had Fender Mounted Mirrors. If you'll notice, they also did NOT have rear fender marker lights. If I recall right, from a friend who was stationed in Japan, their roads are so narrow, that having the mirror mounted on the window frame does not allow for enough angle of view in order to determine if someone is right next to you, but just out of your peripheral vision. Then again, think of the hazzle of having to get out of the car, go around to the front, tweak the mirror, get BACK into the car, and repeat ad nauseum because you never sit down the same way twice. And I agree with everyone else, why mess up a perfectly good paint job to mount two mirrors on the fenders? Besides, are you going to leave the ones on the doors? Or are you planning on filling the holes?

Have you obtained a Factory Shop Manual, or ANY manual of any sort? Have you run down the wiring? Have you checked for continuity on the wiring? Have you checked for a possible short to ground? And last but not least, Have you checked the fuses? All of the above are BASIC questions, but yes, as much of a PITA as they seem, they bite people over and over again. I've seen people post here and on other forums: I've Checked and rechecked and checked again, so DON'T ANYONE tell me to CHECK THE D@MN FUSE AGAIN. Only to see a new post a few days later, FOUND MY PROBLEM!!! It was the fuse. So, hehe, as obnoxious and these guys are just telling me to go away, it is a KNOWN problem with the Z's. Not only check the fuse, check the fuse holder, make sure the metal is nice and bright. Make sure the connection to the fuse holder itself from the wiring below is tight. Check connections. We could go on and ON, and you will most often find that ,,,,,ooops, it's a simple fuse.

The percentage of AF to H2O used, I referenced is right off the Prestone Bottle in my garage. At 50%/50% it gives one set of Upper and Lower temperatures, at 70%AF/30%H2O it gives a Higher Upper and a Lower Low temperature protection, the bottle does not address cooling efficiency. I went to their website hoping to find some information and after a 10 minute search could not find anything that referenced the cooling difference between 50/50 and 70/30. Since I was looking for the sake of discussion and not for Doctorate Thesis; I let it go. I'm sure the answer is out there someplace, and if so, someone else is welcome to research it out. Since the reply we have received after changing the mixture percentage does indicate a drop in the operating temperature, I feel we would be safe in saying that a 50/50 mix is more efficient than a 70/30. But not having had direct experience myself, I posted what I had learned from the bottle. Personally, I ALWAYS mix 50/50, since a mechanic YEARS ago put it this way: "Rick, if the temperature drops to -35F or above 260F in the engine, you got a sh!tload of OTHER problems to worry about. Now if you lived in Alaska, then ...."

There are many postings on just as many Z-Car sites regarding this problem. This is a KNOWN problem with the Z's, especially the 240 body style cars. Briefly and succinctly: Check ALL hoses going to the fuel tank. Some of these go to the tank through the tail light access panel. The recovery tank is also located behind the right rear plastic panel. Be careful when removing the plastic panels, they are brittle and will break if abused. Check your Tail Light gaskets, sometimes the smell is due to the exhaust smell creeping back in to the car, and you are running rich. You probably did not notice the smell when you bought the car because they didn't fill up the gas tank; which was probably one of the FIRST things you did. For an EXCELLENT article on how to replace all the hoses, order the Premier Issue of Sport Z magazine (www.sportzmagazine.com) They cover it there and even provide information on size, length and diameter of the hoses you will need. NAPA has these, you just got to ask for them as they aren't normally out in front. Hope this helps.

First off, the FSM is Model Year Specific. This means that you may find SOME information in a 71 FSM for a 72, but you won't find all. This gets progressively worse the further apart your car's model year and the FSM you get are. I would recommend you wait till you get your car. Then look at it's manufacture date to determine WHICH year FSM to get. Then you can try to get one through e-Bay, or Courtesy Nissan. Mind you, it isn't going to be cheap. Expect to pay from $50 up to $125. If I recall Courtesy also sells some years in CD format, but not for the EARLY 240. I think their manuals on CD begin with either the 72 or 73 models. You might also post on the Wanted Forum here. Someone may have one that they would sell. Good Luck!

SURVEY SAYS: ONE OF EACH!! If you are trying to find the ONE manual that will help you the most: The Factory Service Manual; both sections: Engine and Body. If you are looking for a manual OTHER than the FSM; I personally (for the 240) vote for the EARLY Clymers. The one with the Blue cover and the picture of the Red Z, NOT the one with the Red cover and the same red Z. i.e. THE VERY FIRST EDITION Clymer's. Although the latter editions were ok, they chopped out major sections on electrical and body that reduced them (in my opinion) to the level of a Hayne's or Chilton's. If you can't find the Clymer's: Hayne's or Chilton's. Both have their shortcomings, and both have their good points. You can usually find these just about anywhere, even at car shops, they can order them for you. Need to be told where to start?: Wic Humble's "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" You can get this one at Amazon or various other places. 2¢

One other item to consider here: Coefficient of Friction. i.e. that amount of force that can be exerted and still benefit from the counter force developed by friction. Acceleration can only happen or push on the tires until the coefficient of friction is overcome, at that point you have a "burn out". Simple right? Braking is the same, same with cornering. Now, the discussion regarding the foot print: A larger area footprint means the load (weight of the car) is exerted in such a manner as to be LESS weight per square inch of area. And that difference is what allows more force to be exerted both under acceleration and deceleration as well as lateral forces (cornering). So don't be fooled by the weight/area relationship you've established. Mike has explained the major considerations to make, all else is just hype.

Ok, from the last post what I surmise is that it is only the FRONT signal that is not working. The rear component of the turn signal (left) IS working. Therefore to summarize: Both RIGHT hand lights work as they should, including the indicator in the Tach. LEFT: only the indicator in Tach and the REAR light. The FRONT LEFT indicator is the only thing NOT working. Conclusion: Turn Signal Flasher is operative, wiring through combination switch is ok for the rear, check wiring for left front, bulb check required left front, ground check required left front. If this is correct, then there is only a couple items to check. We need to do THESE simple checks FIRST, before we address the more complex issues suggested. This is Occam's Razor. At the combination switch, look for a Green wire with a RED stripe (shorthand for this is Green/Red wire) Check continuity on that wire from the combo switch all the way to the light socket at the front of the car. If no problems, (also check for short to ground), then check to make sure the light socket has good contact to ground. That's the black wire at the socket, run continuity through it to ground. Lastly, check continuity on the bulb. If ALL those check ok, then we can start looking at the other possibbilities, such as short to the parking light circuit. But I'll bet that this solves it.

Let's not get a war started here like what happened at Zcar.com. There will ALWAYS be people who don't like what you do to YOUR car, and others that think it's the next item they want to copy for theirs. While some will laud your choice of paint, others will wonder why not just have a bunch of birds poop on it to make it look better from the paint job you did. 2+2, different, yes, but nonetheless an original Z car as manufactured by Datsun/Nissan. Can't say the same about V8; V6 and other engine swaps. How about shaved bumpers, or handles, lights or even AIR DAMS. GEEEEEEEEZ!!!! BUT......to each Z owner, it is their baby and they are satisfied with what they've done. I would even go so far to say that in many cases they've done a conscientious and careful change over. Are there atrocities out there, you bet, but then again, not in ALL cases. In some cases, they've rescued these cars from sure death at the crusher or a slow death in the boneyard. Other cases, have been where they are bought and changed, maybe from what the original owner might have felt should happen to it, but nonetheless, they are STILL ON THE ROAD! If you feel strongly enough about these "atrocities" then get your money together, make an offer, buy the car, and "correct" to your hearts desire. Note that I am not defining "correct", because one man's feast is another man's poison. Which is right? It's up to each one of us. Let's just keep them rolling, that they are different is part of the spice of being in a fraternity. We're not all stamped out of the same mold, nor are we expected to "restore" to the same condition as everyone else. Even talking Concours judging, your car is judged to the standards for your year, and 920 Gold paint as well as any of the 900 series paints are unacceptable in any other year than 70 and 71. Just my 2¢

At the risk of sounding like a pompous overbearing self-righteous old coot, (may I are one at 46), let's apply the K.I.S.S. principle here. Do you know when the oil AND filter had been changed before you did it this weekend. I'm presuming that you had the filter changed, if not then I'm also guilty of the "arse-U-ME" principle. If it's been a while, then it is very probable that the NEW oil has loosened up items that were caked / gunked up before. One of which could very well be the oil pressure sender unit. Conjecture, but nonetheless, in other oil pressure gauges where an actual pitot tube of oil went to the gauge, an air bubble could cause the most outrageous of pressure differences, that could be the case here. Even if they were they wouldn't cause the engine to run hotter. The only effect would be that you would have a Fully hot heater core inside the car interior that is allowed to release ALL of the heat it gets from the engine inside the car, and the return to the engine is restricted. The normal method of operation is that the Fully heated coolant is outside the car interior; restricted from entering the heater core at full volume. In both instances the return volume from the heater core would be regulated by the heater control valve, and since this either shuts off or opens all the way (as well as stages in between) it has no direct bearing on the heat of the engine. (Although, in an emergency overheating situation, if you turn on the heater valve and allow the heater core to act as a second radiator it CAN help reduce the heat of the engine) The oil pressure sending units are known to be inaccurate and are an item that can go bad. I would try to get a new one and see what that does, or check it with a mechanical one. The thermostat may be something to check in to, but I would FIRST address the timing as 2MZ pointed out, then I would check the thermostat if the timing does not change the temp. By the way, the 70/30 mix of AF/H2O is for increased EXTREME TEMP protection. i.e. it will allow your coolant to NOT freeze or boil until it reaches lower / higher temperatures respectively than a 50/50 mix. This has NOTHING to do with it's effectiveness as a cooling agent, in fact it may affect it's heat exchange properties. i.e. how easily / quickly it gains / loses heat energy. And THAT property is what determines how good a coolant it is. Just my 2¢

For a really complete and humongous catalog of parts, nuts, bolts, etc etc; get a hold of a Granger's or a McMaster Carr catalog. You might also check the JC Whitney catalog. What JC Whitney is to automotive, Granger's and McMaster Carr are to industry. They catalog just about every possible combination of part for industry you can imagine. In fact, years ago, I was looking for an old style chamois squeezer. You know the type that you find on old style pressure wand car washes? Well, the ONLY source I found after looking in every automotive, hardware, industrial service etc etc place was McMaster Carr. So, if it's out there, either Granger's or McMaster Carr probably has it, and probably has it in stock.