EScanlon

I would say you are right, but I am not sure (maybe someone else knows for sure) if Datsun differentiated between the Right Hand Drive production and Left Hand Drive. In other words, I'm not sure if you have the 1031st RHD car or the 1031st 240Z, Right OR Left hand drive. Anyone?

I've learned a couple things from this post from what I was taught. The epoxy primer under bondo is new, but then again I was a body man back in 1983, funny thing, that's what I did on several panels of a 1976½ Mercury Capri II, but not on all, and yes many years later the parts of the car that had the bondo falling off were the un-primed ones. Just goes to show that the learning goes on, and what "everyone knows" does change. The old bondo on bare metal was what we were shown by the factory reps pushing their product. In fact, they would do it the same way. One note though, and this is critical. No one has pointed out that epoxy primer can be top coated or have other coatings put on it within a short period of time after it's been shot. After that time period, you MUST scuff off or sand off the top "skin" or even paint won't stick to it properly. This varies by manufacturer, but for the most part it's betwen 24 and 48 hours. Since you do have to let the epoxy set, shoot it in the morning, and bondo in the afternoon. I still want someone to discuss whether or not the panel should be prepped with a slap-grind of 24/36 grit to leave gouges or teeth for the bondo to adhere to. Regarding GuyCali's question about sequence of events: For what it's worth, on all the cars that I've worked on, and even at the body shop I worked at, we had one adage: Get the Mechanical work done first! In fact, the body shop where I worked was owned by a large trucking outfit, who ALSO owned it's own mechanic shop. Any truck would FIRST go to the mechanics who would totally rebuild the truck, engine, tranny you name it. When they were done, then and ONLY then would we get the rig. If there was something we had to do in between their mechanical processes, we would get it in on "loan" (painting engine compartment, engine, tranny) and the unit would go back until it was ready for BODY work. So, my advice, and using the items you listed, my numeration would be: 1. Rebuild/modify engine 2. Swap transmission and differential 3. Rebuild/customize suspension 4. PAINT INTERIOR (or make sure paint is good) 5. Install roll bar/cage. 6. INTERNAL PAINT TOUCH UP (check for damage) 7. DO EXTERNAL REPAIRS TO BODY PANELS (dents, etc) *8A. If Fender Flares / Body Kits are the weld on or graft on type then do these next OR *8B. If they are the bolt on type I would attach and then REMOVE them from the vehicle. 9. DOUBLE CHECK BODY for damage from flares / body kits. 10. PREP FOR PAINT; BODY AND ANY PARTS TO BE ATTACHED (Final out repairs, bondo; Prime vehicle and wetsand smooth) 11. PAINT BODY AND PARTS 12. UNMASK CAR====THEN WALK AWAY (this is critical) 13. LET PAINT CURE FOR 2-3 DAYS 14. CAREFULLY remount external items to car (Bumpers, painted parts, emblems etc) 15. WASH CAREFULLY WITH ONLY WATER AND DO NOT WIPE HARD WITH RAG. 16. WAIT NO LESS THAN 90 DAYS FOR WAXING That's my 2¢

Don't know about the rest of you, but I find the "logo" in the upper left hand corner of the site to be extremely eye-catching. I'm sure that there is someone in the group here who is both artistic enough and able to make either a sticker or a metal badge type emblem to bolt on the grille of the car. Personally I prefer the metal grille badge. (Anyone remember the MG's and other British / European cars with all those flashy metal emblems on the grilles?) I think that tastefully done you could easily sell it and make enough of a profit to help support this site. Thoughts?

The "diode" referred to is more than likely the resistor I told you of. The problem between the coil and tach is possible but impossible to diagnose at this point. The reason for not being able to diagnose is simple, the tach works in an inverse method to what is commonly thought. It doesn't use the current from the coil to actuate the needle, doing so would actually be a problem as it would reduce current going to the plugs. What it does is sense the current on one side of a graduated relay, and based on the number of "ticks" from the coil, it graduates the current that DOES go to the needle assembly to indicate the number of revolutions. Since your tach goes to red line, the "choke" or limiting factor on the circuit is blown, that's why it is going to red line. In essence the needle assembly is receiving a full 12v full amperage current and not the graduated current that the internals of the tach are supposed to meter. If you had stated that your tach didn't indicate anything when the engine was running, THEN you have an indication of wiring problems to the coil. The Tachometer in the 240's is an integral part of the firing circuit. If you disconnect it, the engine won't run without your inverting the connection to the coil FROM the tach. This is the most common area of trouble with upgraded distributors and the original 240 Tach. But, just my 2¢. Let us know what you find.

You mention that the gas smell seems to come from the front of the car. The 240 has fuel lines running to and from the engine to the fuel tank. That is TWO lines. These lines alternate between rubber and metal a couple times along their length. You may have a leak in one or both of those lines at any one of the transition points. Additionally, you may have a broken fuel filter, a bad hose leading to the mechanical fuel pump, and / or a bad mech. fuel pump. So, put your car up on stands and start tracing those lines. You may find that it is a simple rubber hose, or a hose clamp that needs replacing, but you may find something else.

If there is a clear coat on the wheels, save yourself a chunk of time and remove it using paint stripper. I would recommend the Aircraft Stripper available at your automotive paint store. Within minutes of application it will bubble and wrinkle the old finish and allow you to scrape it off. Although the container says to use metal scrapers, for what you are doing a plastic scraper will work, just rinse it off here and there. By the way, lacquer thinner works faster to "cut" the stripper, although water will also, it takes more water and longer to do so. After you've removed the stripper, wash the wheels down real well and then polish as you wish to. Finally, protect your wheels with some sort of final finish product. Whether you use Clear Coat paint, Metal Polish / Protectant, or Clear Powder Coating to do so is your choice. Heck, if you're a glutton for punishment, polish them once a week! By the way, it IS possible to remove any scratches or pits you may have acquired due to the age / exposure of the metal, it may involve some very careful sanding with various grades of sand paper, but if you are careful and attentive to detail you should be ok.

What he said. He's stated it perfectly. My only question is that if you are ALREADY going through the trouble and hazzle of doing POR-15 on the backside of the fenders, frame and other areas why would you skimp on the rest of the metal inside the fenderwell? I would think, and this is just my thought, that if you can afford it, except for the very most exterior part of the metal, I would literally DIP the whole car in POR-15. And the only reason I wouldn't do the exterior part of the metal, is that I would want to do the nicest, smoothest, most beautiful paint job I could, and POR-15 does say that it is literally rock hard afterwards and hence difficult to use as a base material for nice finishes. Lastly, if what you are worried about is that someone could look inside your wheel well and say, hey what's this black stuff, you CAN paint POR-15 with your car's color, you just have to time it just right after you apply the POR-15. Check the instructions, as it outlines how to do it. Myself, I plan on using the POR-15 everywhere underneath the car, and even inside the passenger compartment. Then in the fender wells, I plan on spraying a nice thick coat of Body Shutz. The reasoning is two fold. One, it does provide SOME sound attenuation which is important, and two, it both protects the finish (granted it will be POR15) but it also allows for mud / snow to fall off because they can't stick well. (it also provides some rock chip protection to the POR) 2¢

I also had the 3 piece hatch seal that had disintegrated into three dozen very hard and broken up fragments. I checked the "original" replacements, and from asking others found out that unless I was doing a concours restoration (i.e. TOTALLY and ABSOLUTELY stock, just as it came from the factory, or "I bought it and never drove it, just stored it since then" school of thought), I should buy the later one-piece seal as it works much better for rain. Since I live in the Pacific North West, and we occasionally get Sunshine to break up our normal year round rain, this was the way to go. Looking around the boneyards was a waste of time, since the seals are mostly gone on the cars there. Looking at new parts made me blanche. Then in talking to Andy Russell (The Datsun Dude), he let me know that he had access to a very good and reliable aftermarket replacement seal that was as good as if not better than the original Datsun one piece seal. I bought one, and believe me it is everything he claimed. Contact Andy at z@datsundude.com or at (480) 217-7322 for pricing. He is familiar with what's required to ship to Australia. Regarding your original (remember?) question. Forget what "they" told you. Get the 240Z Pillar Badges (note: they're no longer available in metal, just plastic. I have one of the ones in metal, but the chrome isn't perfect.) Andy sells these for $50US / pair. The Hatch Vent Grilles, KMack has a set for $10 each, but he's mentioned a couple imperfections, Andy has them for $55US / pair. Anyhow, hope you've gotten enough information to do your car right! Good Luck, and keep us posted.

I think the biggest thing to point out here is that what you are looking for is something to support and distribute the pressure exerted on the sand paper EVENLY. Metal, Wood, Plastic, and other similar rigid materials won't let you FEEL the sandpaper working on the paint. Since you are repairing CHIPS and not the whole panel, it is even MORE critical that you feel the cutting stroke. I'm speaking from my own experience, it may be that you feel comfortable with a rigid block, but I personally would rather have a semi-rigid foam block or even a rubber block to support the foam. There is a tool out there that is essentially a metal shaver, but this tool is to cut the bump OFF a run, sag, or even a hair, dirt etc off a DRIED and hardened paint job but not for a chip or scratch. For those you need to blend the edges of the chip down, so that when you paint it will flow out and hide the transition.

Glad it helped you. The Petersen's book is my latest addition to my Z library, and I got it specifically to look at and address what accessories were available. Although not all-inclusive, it is by far the best listing of accessories I've seen to date. It may be that there is yet another book out there that will complement this one. (Bonus Tid Bit: Did you know there was an outfit called F.A.R. Performance out of Mountain View California that produced a 2+2 seat kit for the regular 240? This was a fibreglass shell with a pair of seats built in to fit in the back area between the rear struts!) Fast comment regarding the "actual" manufacturer of any one of the mags/rims/wheels I mentioned: I hope that no one misunderstand me to say that the ones I posted are THE companies that provided the style mentioned. I mentioned these because the book gave me names and manufacturers, I am sure there must be at least a half dozen more OTHER manufacturers with similar if not identical wheels that could be the "original" sources. Don't forget that this is a BIG country, and the manufacturer and hence the "name" to HAVE in Pennsylvania may have been totally obscure and unknown in Iowa, or Arizona or Washington. Aside all this, if you have some of these older style wheels, or obtain them for your car, you might find that getting the replacement center hubs hard to get. Depending on the look you are looking for, you can get some from J.C.Whitney or find a good full line Tire Store in your area. Here in the Pacific North West Les Schwab is excellent for that. There I found 4 Universal Fit Center Caps. I also found 3 wing "knock off" style caps for the Center caps. Unfortunately, I have not been able to locate a "Z" emblem for the caps. (MSA is NLA) If anyone has info on a nice set of Z emblems for the center caps please e-mail or message me.

Jim: I hate to give you the bad news, but it sounds as though you fried one of the resistors inside the tach. I know this from personal experience. It is replaceable, although that is NOT what I did. If you choose to fix, remove the tach from the dash. Open up the case by first removing the shroud and lens. Next, CAREFULLY remove the indicator needle by a firm and steady pull on the center directly in line with the shaft. (that is straight UP off the face) Next, remove the two screws on either side of the shaft, and you should be able to remove the face plate. Next, go to the back of the Tach. Carefully remove the wiring harness and take note of which wire goes where. Presuming that you have the Loop wire 4 wire connector and not the 3 wire, take a close look at the loop connection on the back of the tach. This has a couple plastic pieces holding a LOOP of wire within. The wire is NOT bared, and the plastic pieces may be and probably are BRITTLE. Disconnect all wiring and then remove the "guts" of the tach. You will notice that the tach is comprised of two circuit boards and the needle mechanism. There should be a resistor between the two circuit boards, and more than likely it is fried. Before you mess with it, very carefully jot down it's color stripe sequence, (i.e. gold, black, red, red, green, yellow etc.). This is how resistors are "sized" and you will need to know this when you go to Radio Shack to buy your replacement. Resolder the new resistor and you should be functioning properly. Reassembly is the reverse of these steps.

Don't take offense, but please read my post further up on this same subject. You'll see why I'm laughing. I've been through this with just about everyone that's seen, worked on, dealt with, etc etc my car. As soon as I figure out how to transfer my photos of the car to the puter and then figure out how to post the pictures here I'll do so, but till then trust me, it's a 71. Using Vic/Brit's chassis number identification chart, the car by VIN # is a 1971, but by Production Date it's a 72. :eek: Using www.zhome.com and here's the URL for those of you who want to read the whole story: http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html "THE SERIES II 240Z's were produced from Jan. 1971 through Aug. of 1971. (identified by the fresh air exhaust vents relocated to the side or "C" pillar of the car, from their prior position on the rear deck lid.) These cars were also sold as 1971 Model Year Cars here in the U.S....So both Series I and Series II Z Cars were sold as 1971 Model Year cars. THE SERIES III 240Z's were produced from Aug. 1971 through Sept. of 1972. (identified by the re-designed center console, and seats that folded forward upon release of the latch). These cars were all sold as 1972 Model Year cars, because they complied with the 1972 Safety and Emissions standards only." and using another post on the same site: http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm Begin quote:" VIN #........MFG MONTH.......COMMENT (BELOW VIN#) HLS30 48863........10 ...... Last 1971 Model Year Car Build (HLS30 51583 latest reported so far). 1972 Model Year - HLS30 48863 (earliest reported so far). Flip Forward Seats, New Hub Caps, Center Console Redesigned, gas tank door latch eliminated, 5 inch wide wheels made standard, new 4sp. trans. design, rear end moved rearward 35mm (about 1.5 inches). "End Quote So, as you can see, my car is a 71. Now, if you've read this post, my prior post and taken the time to check out the references I gave, you'll note that there are continuous references to "reported". This is due to the fact that Datsun/Nissan unfortunately hasn't given or doesn't have definitive records as to when a given production run ended and another one began. Therefore zhome is resorting to Z owners registering their cars and reporting their years and mfg. dates. Until all the VIN #'s are accounted for, this is the best we can do. Weeks ago, in discussing another member's automobile (which has a Vent on one Pillar but not the other) we entertained the notion of how different items would have their stocks run out before a given date and others after. Additionally, we might consider how the VIN # is assigned. Having worked in an assembly line manufacturing plant, the serial number MAY have been assigned "Upstairs" and not ON the assembly floor (i.e. By a file clerk processing orders and NOT the assembly man who stamped the numbers as the cars came down the line). Or by ....... The point being that while VIN # 43000 (just a guess) was SUPPOSED to be the LAST 1971, MY car VIN # 43274 IS by all the "litmus" tests known, a 1971 Production and Model and Registration Year vehicle. OR (Alternative Argument) NOT NEITHER A 72!

The original FACTORY Wheel was the stamped steel wheel that most of us have removed and replaced. Many dealers had OPTIONAL wheels that were obtained from the same manufacturer and hence these have become known as "Original" wheels, with the mistaken assumption that they were Datsun/Nissan items. Appliance, Cragar, Shelby and Superior are but a few of the aftermarket Wheel manufacturer's, that were very popular in the 70's. Their sales reps would contact the individual automotive dealers and make arrangements so that the wheels would be offered as Dealer Options. Due to the popularity of one or two of the wheel models available, whether because of actual popularity or because the price and markup to the dealer were attractive, THESE wheels have become known as "Original" wheels. ===Side Note===== By the way, the term "RIM", if I recall properly, is in error. Rim refers to the split ring used on older truck wheels, where the rim was pulled out, then the tire could be put on and off the wheel body without having to stretch the tire around the rim of the wheel. This term nowdays, is used to refer to wheels that are assembled, i.e. center / rim and then either bolted or welded. Please correct me if you've heard different. "MAG" on the other hand, is used to denote a limited number of wheels offered in the early seventies which were true blue Magnesium metal (or primarily Magnesium). These were supposed to be much better due to their added tensile strength over Aluminum, and their light weight when compared to steel. Sadly, a wheel with a lot of magnesium in it can be burned up (literally). Nowdays, it's used to refer to one piece wheels with either polished or chromed finish. ===End of Side Note===== The most popular styles were: Appliance's Models: Dish Mag, this is the one famous as the Slotted Mag. Wire Mag, this one is commonly referred to as the diamond / honeycomb / wire wheel mag. Very often seen with a painted / anodized honeycomb and chrome center and outer contours. Steel Spoke, very very common for almost ANY car. Rarely seen on Z's nowdays, but nonetheless a very inexpensive wheel hence sometimes bought after having the car for a while. This one is the typical beefy rounded spoke with the lug nut wheel area being a circle behind the spokes. 4 spoke and 5 spoke designs depending on lug nut quantity. Unichrome: This is a very common and inexpensive option of the time. It was basically a solid steel inner with a Wire Wheel Basket to make it look like a spoked wheel. Shelby: Serpent, as described in the previous posts. The ribs extend from the outer contour all the way to the center cap. Cal 500; other than the depth of the "dish" another "Slotted Mag". Viper Wheel, this one is also known as the "Libra Mag" which must be the name for another manufacturer's version. Diamondback, this is another rendition of the Wire Mag (diamond / honeycomb / wire wheel mag). This one differs in that there is a "step" in the outer contour. Cragar and Superior, were but two other manufacturers that I remember from the era. Undoubtedly there are many others I don't recall or know about. For those of you interested, much of the information was obtained from Petersen's Complete Book of Datsun copyright 1975.

I think they are Appliance's version of Shelby's Serpent Style. Where the Serpent had ribs going all the way to the center cap, the Appliance's don't.

My 71 has it on the passenger side, unfortunately it has been wiped clean by some PO and I can't tell you if it's upside down or not. Months ago, I vaguely remember running into a reference about someone that reproduces these and the other stickers for folks wanting that OEM / Concours look. Anyone know whom / where?

I tried your link and seemed to get lost. So I called Troy Thacker (owner, Too Intense Restoration) and he mentioned that the Trim parts you mentioned are for the 260/280 but not for the 240. The 240 only has the horizontal chrome strip and no wrap around. Thanks, but these weren't the ones I need. Any other leads?

Sadly, the cost of replacing the bumpers depends on the year of the car, not only for availability but also for price. Years ago, replating a bumper would have been considered ONLY for special needs / show cars that needed / wanted extra thick chrome or specialty chroming. Replating a bumper was the last resort, and buying a NEW bumper was the FIRST resort. Nowdays, it's the other way around. Check with MSA, Victoria British and see how much it would cost you to buy new, then go check with your platers. And when you check with the platers, ask if they'll strip, grind, resurface and polish the new chrome. Then you'll know which way to go.

Old Body man here, DON'T use Wood as a backing for the sand paper. The possibilities that the panel you are working on is "perfectly" flat and that the wood you will be using is also "perfectly" flat are close to impossible. Use a Hard Foam or Rubber piece as a backing pad. This is what we used in the body shop I worked at. The main reason NOT to use something hard, is that it will NOT conform to the panel, and you will end up sanding IN grooves which will exacerbate the appearance of the chip repair. The BEST method is to use a medium hard foam piece, and sand using a DIAGONAL short stroke, moving from one side to the other, then on the return move (side to side) sand again in a diagonal maner but perpendicular to your original stroke. You want to "crosshatch" sand. If you choose to sand using your hand, use the heel of your hand and NOT your fingers. Lastly, it is far better to use 500 short LIGHT strokes than 50 short HARD strokes. 2ManyZ's tip about a wood block is correct for an EXPERIENCED body man / painter, but sadly, NOT for an amateur / newbie. Where experience teaches you to let the panel guide the sandpaper, the new guy tries to make the sandpaper / block combination force the cut. Just my 2¢

MrMoonshine: One of the nastiest things about rust is that, like an iceberg, you only see the top of it, and the bottom can be HUGE! Additionally, only taking care of what you see, is like stepping on the one or two termites that fell out of the light switch hole when you change the face plate in your home. Too many times have I seen "surface" rust be rust-through. Or seen "mild" rust turn out to be serious panel weakening ready to provide Flintstone brakes in a vehicle rust. The sad fact about the 240 Z is that the engineers used very thin sheet metal in order to keep prices down, as well as doing the Japanese market "no one keeps cars longer than a few years" mindset in mind. (Did you know that there are a couple outfits that import engines and other components from "junked" Japanese mainland cars to the US, simply because in Japan they don't restore / maintain older vehicles?) Additionally, since this was their first serious directed attempt at penetrating the US market, they were not aware of many of our "quirks" and idiosyncrazies. (In Japan they do in fact, own their cars only for a few years.) So, bottom line, do the "hard" work now, it will prevent it from being IMPOSSIBLE later.

The plot THICKENS! It seems that you have an Early 71, this indicates that you did indeed have the PLASTIC Vapor tank. As to why the metal one won't fit, I would venture that the original support brackets for the 70 and early 71 were the same, and hence were made for the vent holes being in the hatch and not the roof pillar. In late 71 and on, as evidenced in my car, they did start using the metal tanks. And the reason for all the confusion, is that even though your other points, vents on the pillars and not the hatch, point to a series II you still have a lot of the series I in your car that many of the series II pieces won't fit. I'm in the same boat (remember Royce telling me I had a 72?), unfortunately, I can't help you with this part, I do have access to a Z boneyard, but finding the plastic tank may be a big problem. I will check, but can't guarantee anything since as you know, the part is old, and being plastic may not have survived well, and cost and IF there's one to be found. Have you checked with the guys at MSA or Victoria British or some of the other places who advertise Z parts? Lastly, you said you tried to fit a 72 tank. What exactly was the problem, can you work around it? If you were to modify the inner support beam could you get it to work? if so I can send you pictures of my inner beam and even dimensions. Sorry to have lifted your hopes so high only to say sorry. You might also give this guy a call; he has a boneyard in Arizona and the possibilities of a tank in his area being in better condition may be higher: Zcarsofarizona@aol.com his phone number is: 480-510-8164 Feel free to use my name, who knows it might be worth something.

I'll check, but a verbal description of it would equate it to a very ripe papaya fruit seeing as you are in San Diego, and with a last name of Serrano I figure you might --hablar español. Imaginate el centro de la papaya cuando esta bien pero bien madura, un color naranja pero todavia amarillento. Or for those of us who don't speak spanish. Imagine the center of the papaya when it is very very ripe, an orangish color but still slightly yellowish. If you don't know what papaya is, imagine a dark tangerine.

Tim what is the mfg date of your car. This way we can pin down which tank you need. Mike: Is your 71 240 a late series I or a series II, what is its manufacture date? This way we can get down to the nitty gritty details. This is good detective work by all guys.

Someone with the CD Microfiche please double check what I found on the old style Microfiche. Part Number 17350-E4600 Used until 6/71 17350-N4601 Used between 7/71 and 7/73 17350-N3400 Used between 8/73 and 8/74 17350-N4600 Used between 9/74 and 11/74 These are the part numbers for the tank in question. So, the question to Tim is when was your car manufactured? Not the registration year, the year and month listed on the drivers door jamb. My guess, is that unless he has a Series I 240 which he hasn't said he does, he can use the metal tank which is the one used between 7/71 and 7/73. I'm thinking that Mike couldn't use it cause he does have a Series I. Mike can you answer?

71 240Z AT; Mfg: 9/71 VIN# HLS30 43274 All numbers match. Console: Ash Tray / Cigar Lighter Fuse Cover Combo, Choke & Accelerator slots with no warning light from choke, Rear Window Defog Switch to rear of choke, Bi-Lateral Parking Light Switch Opening to right of Rear Window Defog Switch. Seat Belts: No retract and no indent in floor to accept retracts. Shoulder belt attaches via slotted hole, hangs from hook below quarter light window. Dash: No indent for Hazard Light Switch. Hatch: Round openings for original duct work covered with round rubber plugs. Original outer seal was 3 piece. Fuel Door: Round Keyless Latch Seats: No recline, round knob adjusts angle. Tool Storage: Hinged Openings in rear deck. Luggage Straps. Trust me on this one, it's a 71 Enrique

You definitely want to make sure between 905, 918 and 110. 905 Red (till 8/71) 918 Orange 110 Red (from 9/71 on) Too many times have I heard people say that their car was Orange and they meant Red, and others having heard that the original red was very orangish in hue mistook their true Orange as being Red. If the sticker on the radiator support is still legible (mine isn't) then check the code on it. Or pull up your carpeting or part of your vinyl covering on the tunnel to see.