EScanlon

Using what you have: Transfer the guts from your existing doors to the rust-free shells you have. You'll have to continue using the window mechanisms you have with the stripped out stems. The stems get stripped due to people forcing the window mechanism instead of adjusting/lubricating it. Alternatively you could search for a new window crank assembly and replace your old one at the time you swap the door guts. Or if you want to spend the money, go buy a new set of doors WITH internals and do the swap. First option above is the least expensive. Second option is the next highest in cost. Last option is the most expensive... until and IF you find someone to buy the junk you're disposing of. 2¢ E

That "door" thingie is located on the "back" side of the blower housing. It's the Fresh Air Vent On/Off flap. I'm using a 240 as refereence but the Off/Vent/Defrost lever is the one that controls this. E

If you still have the resistor in place, swap the Black/White wire going to it with the B/W wire going to the coil. If the resistor is gone, you have one loose wire, another B/W wire near by that needs to be in the circuitry for the Tach to receive a signal. FWIW E

Check that the vacuum advance mechanism works. E

All the louvers on my car are ABS plastic. The hatch one mounts to small "steps" of aluminum that slide under the lip of the rubber seal for the window. The other end of the step is mounted to a piece of velcro tape that is glued to the glass. Minimum weight added to the hatch, I'm still using the original lift support. The quarter glass ones have their own small tabs that slide under the rubber glass support. E

I was going to post that you could just swap your handles, but your car is a 280. I know that on the 240's the handles are interchangeable, so maybe it is the same with the 280. E

Opinions will differ. One person's reason for using them is another person's reason for hating them. Go with YOUR feelings regarding whether to use/not use, it's YOUR car. Here are some pictures of my car: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8953&ppuser=1490 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8924&ppuser=1490 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8921&ppuser=1490 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8920&ppuser=1490 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8914&ppuser=1490 FWIW E PS: Andrew, the picture in post #2 doesn't have louvers.

Turn Signals don't receive their power from the same circuit as Headlights and Parking lamps. I'd be more worried about that continual melting solder. THAT indicates a major resistance someplace that must be addressed. And that "green wire" needs further explanation, there are 4 wires going to the T/S half of the switch alone (2 more in the Headlight side). He's probably referring to the G/L wire which is the main power feed to the T/S circuit. FWIW E

They are also supposed to have a thin metal plate attached to the face of the rubber boot. That helps hold the boot flanges up and in place. E

Unblemished? AFAIK, yes. E

You'll completely deform and ruin the trim if you try to remove it from the TOP. Start at the back and from BELOW, i.e. right by the quarter window; twist the bottom down and out. The rest of the piece will follow as you work your way forward working from BELOW. Read the link Mike B posted. E

I'll admit I'm perplexed. I've always fully removed the pane before I removed the frame, then installed the frame first on re-assembly. At a guess, have the pane all the way down to insert the frame's leading edge into the door body, and slowly guide the rear edge of the frame down over the rear edge of the pane. Once the frame is inserted all the way, carefully align the pane within the slots in the whisker seal and roll the pane up. Now you can finish tightening the frame. But I emphasize, this is a guess. I think it would be easier to finish removing the pane, mount the frame then insert the pane. FWIW E

The only fusible link in a 71 Z is the one between the Starter and the Positive Terminal on the battery. If it blows or is questionable the COMPLETE electrical system is inoperative or intermittent. While Nissan/Datsun DID use a Voltage Regulator for some of it's instruments in the Roadster (Sports) the Z didn't. I am not positively sure on JDM vehicles, but I would be surprised if the JDM circuitry included one while the US did not. The fluctuating power may be due to a bad fuse or more likely a bad connection since you mention that when you short Y to B it reads Full. I'd check your grounds before you pull the sender and verify you didn't slide the float adjustment out of whack. It's not upside down since you're not complaining that it's reading FULLer as you drive the car, but that it never deviates from the no more than 1/4 reading. FWIW E

You removed the Stainless FRAME from the door yet left the window pane IN the door? That's the problem, the pane slides up and down the slot in the frame. If you don't align that pane in the groove you're not going to get far. E

WHAT Ignition Relay are you referring to? The 71 isn't equipped with one unless it's aftermarket add-on by a PO, and if so, then referencing the OEM wiring diagram may be useless. The Ignition Switch connects that B/W wire you are referencing(when in RUN position), to power from the White/Red that comes FROM the fuse box, and by doing so energizes the IG circuit of the car (refer to the wiring diagram). That circuit includes the gauges that Steve pointed out as well as the Fuel Pump circuit (your car is equipped with the wires but there isn't a factory fuel pump in a 71) AND the Automatic Transmission kick-down switch and Temperature Relay (to switch to the second set of points). However, the ONLY relay that is energized by the Ignition Switch in the 71 is the Accessory Relay (which is the one people hear clicking inside the cabin). That is on a different wire also from the Ignition Switch (L/R), but it only comes on when the Ig. Sw. is in RUN. However, the 3rd fuse (up or down still the same fuse, there's only five per side) on the RH side of the fuse block is the 20A Park/Tail lamp fuse which controls the Engine Bay Lamp, Instrument lights and as labeled the Park and Tail lamps (not Stop). On the LEFT side of the fuse block, the 3rd fuse is the fuse that's powered by the B/W wire coming from the Ignition Switch. So, ignore the accessory relay clicking on when the ignition switch is in Run, and instead concentrate on the wiring coming out of the fuse block. You might also do as Sarah mentioned and check that 3rd fuse (middle fuse) on the LEFT side of the block. E

Even the 280's have TWO flashers, one each for the T/S and Hazards. So, the T/S working properly doesn't automatically mean the Hazards will. But that the problem is in the Hazards indicates a problem with the wiring to the Hazard and not the Combination Switch. E

Michael, the last part of my last post to this thread was directed at 5thhorseman. E

DON'T let the phosphoric acid dry on your car. Let it work, 30 minutes is what the Metal Ready recommends, then RINSE it off and then allow it to dry. Letting the acid dry would cause problems when you paint. E

You cleaned off the BATTERY connections, but until you replaced the starter you hadn't finished cleaning the supply circuit to the car. Aside from the starter being new and helping start the car better, I suspect that R&R on the connections to the starter (including the main and only fusible link) may have been a bigger correction than anything else. FWIW E

Great Arne, with the bunch on this site you know we're going to be inundated with references to Deliverance..... Dueling Banjo's anyone? E

Hazards and Flashers each have their own independent flasher unit. First, check all the grounds in the engine bay. Don't just LOOK at them; remove the screw, scrape off any rust/corrosion, replace screw. Next, do the same with ALL the fuses in the fuse box. Don't just LOOK at them, pull them out, do a continuity check on them (multimeter check THROUGH the fuse), THEN do a visual inspect to ensure the little wire isn't about to pop off the end cap. Check that the end caps are firm, don't twist off the cap, but DO check that it isn't moving. If any of these are doubtful, replace the fuse. Before you replace the fuse, take a look at the contacts. Using a small piece of either scotch pad/brillo or a fiberglass brush (contact cleaner) make sure the contacts are shiny bright. Also check that they aren't loose or wiggle, if so, remove the fuse box and peen the rivet tight. Make sure the fuse holders actually GRIP the fuse, not just hold it. THEN, try everything again and re-post. E

The wiring at the steering column is very straightforward... IF the connectors are still attached to the wires. Maybe I'm reading more into this than is there, but if you're needing a pictorial on the wiring in that area, my thoughts are that the wires have either been cut, or somehow you've lost all the connections/connectors. It may be simpler for YOU to post a picture of the wiring as YOU have it, and let us take a crack at helping you than your trying to figure out the wiring by looking at pictures that may not show the detail you will need. 2¢ E

The classifieds were moved to: http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/index.php There are several reasons, but the simplest is that it allows the ads to be in one central location that can "age" and retire the ads as they age. On the forum here, there were instances of people reviving For Sale ads that were years old, the same for Wanted ads. As you can imagine, sometimes even the original poster would not recall the original offer/need. Want Ads / For Sale Ads are transitory and it is difficult to retire them accurately. The separate site gives the poster the control than what he has here. Threads on this forum are kept open for people to view, and when it adds to the thread, to post to it. Threads don't get locked down unless they get out of control and fall into argumentative and disruptive comments. As far as the rules here, you'll find that we actually are less stringent and oppressive here than other forums. We do have posting and decorum standards that have established themselves over many years. Those standards aren't oppressive, nor are they difficult to conform to. They may be difficult to delineate and specify exactly at what point a transgression begins to occur... which is why we try to be very lenient... but if you post aggressive, threatening, and insulting comments you'll find that you WILL have crossed the line. In a nutshell, treat others politely, don't label, accuse or denigrate individuals or groups and you'll fit in. Push the limits and you'll be put on, as you put it, double secret probation. You've already been cautioned, and yet you insist on publicly chaffing and "pushing it". Do you really expect the thousands of members who DO get along with each other on this site to change their behavior because one person doesn't like it? It's really quite simple, if you don't like it, let us know and we'll refund the price of your admission and let you get on down the road. We can agree to disagree. Again, you're welcome to stay and get along... or not and be asked to leave... or be locked out. E Scanlon Moderator

Skyrit, Actually, we moderators don't normally look into people's PM's... the simple fact that it's a PRIVATE Message is all that is needed to stop us. But YOU are the new member, you may want to consider that before you go attacking the rest of the members or moderators. E

Then feel creeped out.... Congratulations, you've earned an infraction. To boot it's twice within the SAME thread. Remember YOU are the new member, not the rest of us. It's up to you to find a way to get along and not for us to suddenly accept your ways. You may want to look at the number of posts below a member's avatar before you start attacking their posts. Lastly, the accusations you make are offensive, not only on a personal level, but on a general membership level. If you have issues with your acceptance or rejection of said concepts of patience and sensitivity, then please go see a mental counselor. If this is the type of contribution you are going to be making, then please leave or simply refrain from contributing. E