EScanlon

You mention you DO get a spark. When? When you're cranking the engine to try to start it, or with the key in the ON position (engine isn't running obviously)? Just as a WAG, check the wiring to the Ignition Resistor. If that fried on you, then you'd have spark while cranking, but not when the key is in the RUN position. Also check the points, if it's a properly stock AT, it should have dual points. FWIW E

Gil; Here's an old post with information for you later down the road: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4847&highlight=wiper E

Gil: If you still have the linkages out of the car, then do yourself a favor... disassemble the PIVOTS (# 7 and 8) in the diagram. The shaft holder has a pocket for grease, which over time has petrified and makes it very hard for the shaft to turn in the holder. If the body of the pivot doesn't rotate freely around the shaft, it's gunked up. I'll do some research on the spring. En Español para que no tengas que usar el traductor: (Si todavia tienes el motor y los brazos fuera del carro, haste un favor, desarma los pivotes de los limpiadores (#7 y 8) en el diagrama. Esos pivotes tienen una area dentro para grasa, que despues de tiempo se ha petrificado y hace que sea dificil para el eje del limpiador que gire. Si el cuerpo del pivote no gira libremente, esta lleno de grasa mala. Vere si encuentro algo para el resorte.) E

Good catch Jim. When I swapped mine, I put away the old 71 HCP one day and inserted the 73 HCP complete in the car several weeks later, and didn't compare item for item. E

AFAIK there is no difference between the 72 and 73 Fresh Air Vent Bellows / Connnector. (Note, you'll never get warm air out of that vent.) It's only the Panel itself, with the translucent plastic, the rubber shrouds to mask the light to those sections, and the lever assembly mount. FWIW, you need the rubber shroud or you will have light reflecting out the back and sides and the panel itself won't be as crisp in lighting. FWIW E

The two wires going to the sending unit complete the circuit from the fuel gage. No further grounding is required as long as your proper ground on the chassis is in good shape. That ground is located on the right hand side of the car (and I presume either RHD/LHD) and it's just aft of the opening leading to one of the drain holes on the hatch floor. As far as adjustment, the sending unit has one adjustment. That's the position of the sliding contact to the float lever. When you take your sender out, look at it from the bottom portion of the "circuit". You'll note that there is a piece of circuit board material wound with some wire that has a sliding contact . That sliding contact will travel from one end of the wound coil to the other. It doesn't go all the way end to end, the float can't go UP high enough nor DOWN low enough to reach the extremes of the wires. Now look at the pivot point for the float lever, you'll note that there is a screw fixing the position of the sliding contact with the float arm. Determine the sender's proper alignment (there's a notch on it's metal plate that aligns with the fuel tank's opening) and compare where the float would be at "empty" and "full" and adjust your sliding arm accordingly. If additional fuel gage adjustments need to be made, there is some amount of electrical adjustment that can be made at the gage, but the problem is that it's tricky to fill the tank, get in there, adjust the gage to "full", then empty the tank, and once again check the gage, and repeat.... The adjustment at the gage is there, but I have not played with it to give you more detail, and I'll leave it to others to perform the gymnastics required to adjust via that method. FWIW E

The HCP from the 73 including the cable mounting assembly COMPLETE will fit into a 72 dash. The only problem you might run into is that the 73 HCP is just slightly wider and thicker than the 72, which might cause a bit of difficulty on re-assembly of the dash and center console. It IS do-able though. The 73 HCP and lever assembly replaces BOTH the Plastic Panel AND the cable levers from 72. You can't intermarry the pieces as you have discovered. What it seems you are trying to do is to use the 72 lever assy with the 73 faceplate. From your pictures you are also missing the shrouds for the light bulbs and the clear plastic - light conducting bit that sends the light to the spaces above the levers. FWIW E

http://www.eastwood.com/door-panel-fastener-removal-tool.html That is one possibility. E

Saridout: You've chosen to address and rebutt most of the items I mentioned in my earlier post and, from the tone of your writing, taken offense or had your feelings hurt. If that's the case, then realize that the response(s) (mine and others) are all based on what YOU have posted. The items that you feel "should be obvious", are NOT that obvious. You arrived on the forum back in March 09 and for the first FIVE months, you addressed many items NOT related to the bodywork your car needs. Engine rebuilding, heater problems and repairs, electrical gremlins and other assorted problems mainly dealing with the engine and parts thereof. You did NOT label yourself as a complete novice when it came to working on cars. The end of August 09 is when you finally asked about rust: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35655 You also qualified the rust "The passengers side is not quite as bad; the rust doesn't go past where the headlight sits."; giving rise to the impression that you were familiar with what you were working on. Nonetheless, you were advised to look further to determine the full extent of the rust. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=301316&postcount=5 Your last post to that thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=301459&postcount=10 Says you were comfortable just treating the rust with Ospho. That however was your FIRST indication there were problems to be addressed. Three months later, you posted about a bodyshop quote you weren't happy with: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36599 Where you asked about "Bondo" and I provided an explanation, to which you replied: Emphasis mine.That pretty much says you KNEW about the potential for problems and the need for more careful evaluation by more competent people. That was your SECOND indication. At the beginning of this year, you then posted your "i need some reassurance" thread, where in your initial post you had been advised by a bodyshop that "(they) thought the car was in better condition than this," and they excused themselves from working out a trade with you for the bodywork. That was your THIRD notice and warning. Any consensus YOU derived from all these notices is just your own wishful thinking. There were problems, and you were told of the problems, and you chose to not see them as problematic. That's YOUR doing, not anything I or anyone else here did or failed to alert you to. You mention that: Yeah right, we should have been more pro-active and forced you to stop and really evaluate the situation. There is only so much "power" this keyboard holds. Sorry, that falls on you to be the one to ascertain what to and not do. It wasn't until January that you actually posted some pictures of the rest of your car's body that finally showed the extent of the problems. You then chose to only post 3 pictures here, 3 of which had been posted to your Flickr account when you started that album, and NONE of the ones that showed the rust everywhere else. To see those, you had to go to your Flickr account and peruse through them. You were told by more than one person that rust repair is neither cheap nor quick and that it can harbor surprises. You chose to debate the point: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=314320&postcount=5 and went looking for another shop. You found the one that did the work on Zed2's car. That was the end of March. Your next thread is this one, where from the first post you've questioned, re-questioned and doubted everything the bodyman has told you, and where you've taken bits and pieces of information posted here to form an "informed" opinion. Yet, it's those same bits and pieces of information that are tripping you up. You cite that: Which is your response to my statement of: emphasis mineNote that I'm advising you trust the person doing the work, and NOBODY ELSE. But you feel it's ok since you have the "forum of people who know better than i do" backing you up. If you don't trust him, pull your car and go elsewhere. You state: Let me help you with that, you've done NOTHING BUT select those answers that supported what you wanted to feel about your car. You've represented your car as nothing less than: "it looks worse than it is" while selecting those responses that uphold that view. If this seems harsh... well so be it. I'm not going to apologize for it. That's why I put on my flame suit. 2¢ E

There is a gasket that comes up from below. That fixed nut visible behind the filler tube is where it bolts to. There is a grommet and a plate that afix to the bottom of that "floor" that the filler neck goes through. The other seal is for one of the vent hoses coming up to the vapor tank from the fuel tank. Check the microfiche, that will show you the proper parts to repair instead of putting on a band-aid. "Dumm-dumm" is not rubber, it's tar. It has it's place, but I don't know that I would want it up against rubber parts that will absorb the oils in it. (Kind of like Vaseline and rubber.) Wick Humble mentions dum-dum in his book, but he uses it between metal pieces to avoid the metal/metal friction. FWIW E

In another thread, Arne suggested Dental Floss to remove those items that used the 2sided adhesive foam tape. FWIW E

Unless you are planning on throwing away your pressure sprayer, DON'T use it for POR. The amount of cleanup required afterwards will not only drive you batty, it will be next to impossible to thoroughly clean it and, believe me, if you do NOT get rid of all the POR inside, it will be unuseable next time. The POR sets HARD AS A ROCK, and this is no understatement. If it's inside the sprayer valves or passages even in minute amounts AND you let it set.... it's trash. The syphon spray guns I posted, limit the path of the POR to the PVC tube and the very tip of the blower. Yes, they're a bit messier and less "refined", but the main advantage is the minimum amount of disassembly and clean up required. The PVC tubing is cheap enough to replace (about 15¢/ft), without worrying about clean up, and the tip need only be immersed in lacquer thinner and then brushed out to be serviceable again. The only important note is to add a weight to the end of the PVC tubing to keep it at the bottom of the POR can. If you need to address tight spaces or deep into crannies, etc, you can obtain the type of spray gun that has the extended nozzle tip. Even with the long nozzle, it's simple clean up. FWIW E

The syphon spray blow gun is apparently no longer available at Harbor Freight. Here's a link to the same item at a different store: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920333000P?vName=Tools&sName=Specialty+Tools&cName=Air+Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&sLevel=3&sbv=Milton+Industries&sbf=Brand Same gun, different source/price: http://www.amazon.com/Milton-S157-Siphon-Blow-Gun-Tubing/dp/B000COTXEI And a different style: http://www.drillspot.com/products/39595/gaurdair_corporation_79sg012_syphon_spray_gun And here's the "everything you wanted to know about blow guns" page: http://plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=3026&location_id=3801 E

As far as spraying POR, it CAN be done. This post: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=236868&postcount=36 Part of this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25865 Addresses the whole discussion. E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29554&highlight=hand+throttle E

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2596&ppuser=1490 And yes, it's functional. E

David, I think you hit it spot on. The two IMSA race cars you showed photos of, were popular enough that AFX-Aurora made Slot Car models out of them and featured them in several race track kits. Those same slot car bodies are still popular and in demand. Unfortunately, the "collective" mindset is not allowed to see past the un-molested original bodystyle to the possibilities of design modifications. 2¢ E

From the pictures in your Flicker account.... $8-9K for just the manual labor... WITHOUT extra for parts seems more than reasonable. You had/have rust in just about EVERY major component of that car... Rockers, Front End Fender supports, Doors, Hatch, Hatch Sill, Floor pans, Roof (just above the windshield), the whole rear quarter panels INCLUDING below the quarter windows.... then to boot it was all covered with thick layers of bondo (and those cute little "flame" stripes up the back end which then got painted over) and at least one or two re-paints. What is NOT visible makes me shudder. Without seeing the actual quote and talking to the guy to find out what he did and did not include in his quote, (patching in new metal, D/A'ing or stripping paint, sourcing the parts) it is extremely irresponsible to automatically assume that he is ripping you off or robbing you. Go ahead and pull your car only to find that the next body shop simply tells you to get lost, as they will not work on it. Your car was a literal can of worms, just from the pictures you posted as "before", where you highlighted the problems YOU found. In another bodyshop, they would have told you to go find a better car or would have given you an "Earl Scheib" job and really ripped you off. That he even bothered to quote AND take on the job, may be more telling, or it could be your insisting that he do so. He may need the work desperately, or he's doing you a favor. But your car has a lot,and I mean a LOT of issues. Even if you were family you wouldn't get it for free, and unless he's into serious (stupid) charity, he's not going to give his time away, he still needs to eat. There are several hundred hours worth of work needed on your car, and from the looks of the disassembly pictured, you were looking for a complete restoration. Those do NOT come cheap. You've been told this before: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37087 And you've also discussed how things are cheaper in Texas... especially out in the country. You've found a bodyman who, by your own posting, has done exceptional work, and now you're questioning his experience and expertise? You also had a dirt cheap quote for the same vehicle by another shop. There was a reason you went for this higher $ shop. The "arm-chairing" going on here is interestingly contra-indicated by the advice those same people gave in your other posts, but like rust, as more comes to light opinions are wont to change. As far as the bodyshop getting parts for you to examine and THEN approve the work... if this were the 70's and it was relatively easy to send parts back to the warehouse/distributor without too much hazzle or cost, then sure, ask them to do that. However, nowdays just SOURCING the proper part is going to be a hazzle, and very few people are going to a) find it, pay for it, c) get it shipped/delivered to their shop for your consideration and approval if the possibility exists that you're going to refuse it. They're more likely to get stuck with the part and eating the cost. I doubt very much that you'll find anyone willing to buy parts for a 30+ year old car on speculation that you'll agree to pay for them. As far as "repairable" and "unrepairable" rust... it basically comes down to time, money, tools and expertise. Plenty of all of these and you can re-create anything. (Look at the guy that built a wooden Lamborghini, or the miniature V-8 that runs.) Fabricating a whole panel from individual pieces of metal CAN and HAS been done, doing it from a single sheet of metal requires the molds, which is where Tabco comes in. And, instead of accepting the advice of anyone who hasn't laid hands or eyes on your car directly, myself included, when it comes to the extent of the rusted metal and the amount of metal that should be replaced, trust your bodyman. If you try to micro-manage what he does, he's likely to tell you to take your job elsewhere or simply tell you that he won't guarantee the work. FWIW, mileage will vary considerably, flame suit on?.... Check. E

Remove the nut, then re-thread it just about one turn or so. Then as mentioned yank hard. If you don't leave the nut on, be prepared to bonk yourself with it. You COULD use the steering wheel puller, but the push on the right while pulling on the left and alternating (within reason, you're not trying to bend the shaft) will do it. 2¢ E

The "Marine Wash" you are referring to is called Marine Clean and it is used as a De-greaser. Sandblasting with a fine grit won't reach between the joined pieces of sheet metal far enough to really make a huge difference. By the time you pumped up the pressure you'd be warping the sheet metal or pulverizing your media. The acid wash that is used in the POR preparation method will seep in between the metal pieces as far as liquid can, but since it is a phosphoric acid it will affect the metal and help rust-proof it. It's called Metal Ready. There are other metal prep solutions you could use, but since you have to use the Metal Readyto prepare for POR, it goes hand in hand. FWIW E

Upon re-reading my post, I noticed I wrote ENGINE, and that is incorrect, change it to INTERIOR. Oops E

xs10shl: You may want to add your vehicle to your signature. That would help eliminate the confusion over which vehicle you have and are searching parts for. E

Tyler: There are several possibilities to your water behind the dash. The windshield not being properly sealed to the body is one, but that one, IMO, is the rarer of them. Check to see if the drain tube from the cowl that then exits through the kick panel is still whole and not cracked or has holes. The Cowl Drain Tube comes down from the cowl into the engine compartment and then takes a 90° turn to go out the kick panel, which is where the extension I came up with connects. The next thing to check is the sheet metal flange at the very front of the cowl where it is welded to the firewall sheet metal. It is possible that the body has flexed and the caulking applied there has now flaked or cracked off allowing the water to seep through. Check the Fresh Air Vent Flange on the Passenger side of the cowl, and see if the sheet metal around the flange is still intact and not rusted through. While you're at it, check the plumber's putty seal between the cowl floor metal and the Fresh Air Vent Assembly/Blower Unit. Lastly, the whole purpose of the extension for the cowl drain is that the original hose ends just after it enters the fender plenum. It then dumps whatever debris may have accumulated in the cowl and is then flushed out with the water. Over time you will have all sorts of water retaining debris accumulating between the front fender and the forward portion of the rocker panel. This is very common and it eventually results in a rusted front fender "leg". People will claim that it is due to the tire kicking debris up there, but careful examination will reveal the splash guard and the rubber flap that keeps the tire's rooster tail from depositing debris there. What the extension does is it conveys ALL of the cowl's drainage OUT of the body and it's crevices. By doing so, you will have a clean and debris-free fender plenum. FWIW E

The bolded words are not a valid sequence, as far as I know. E

Hatch Hinge Rubber Seals.