EScanlon

R & B = Key-In Warning Buzzer circuit. In one of the pictures above, the main black ground going to the combination switch is not connected. Have you corrected that? You have swapped the switch out, but an incorrect assumption on how the wires connect can simply replicate the problem time and time again. The "Blue" wires (L, LY, etc) are for the wiper and washer, but I don't recall a Black/Yellow at the steering column. The combination tail lamps use 3-1156 Bulbs and only ONE 1157. FWIW E

Hazards AND T/S both work "fine" yet the Brake lights are on with the Tail? Since the Haz and the T/S both use the same filament as the Brakes, it might behove you to double check the wiring to the Stop Switch. Something changed recently... you weren't having this problem before. Try to remember what you last did to see if it might have had an impact here. You might check that you don't have a "cross-threaded" bulb in one of those sockets while you're checking the grounds. E

If your horns used paper "gaskets" to cushion the diaphragm it's important that you don't forget to re-use or replace them. Don't re-assemble without as that will really affect the tone of the horn. Also don't be surprised if you have to re-tone the horn after disassembly. That happens often because you changed the stress on the diaphragm and it can now contact or not get close to the magnetic coil. FWIW E

You won't need no "stinkin" schematics... The switch is attached to the back of the lock with screws. Remove those after removing the connector that connects directly to the switch. Once you have it off the lock, try to rotate the bakelite (the brown "plastic" portion) by holding onto the metal front piece. If there is more than a small amount of "slippage", it could be the cause of the problem. The bakelite rotating more than a few degrees can cause the internal contacts to just barely touch the start terminal. Over time the switch gets sparked and burnt enough that it cannot make proper contact to power the starter relay. You can try to disassemble the switch, but it may prove to be impossible to re-assemble it and have it be functional after cleaning it. FWIW E

How old is your Ignition SWITCH (NOT the Lock)? The Switch is the electrical portion that resides BEHIND the Ignition LOCK and is what the tab on the back of the lock turns when the key turns. There have been several owners (myself included) that have discovered that the bakelite portion of the switch (the brown "plastic") will actually SHIFT when the switch gets actuated and thereby not making contact with the Start contact. I'm not saying that this is definitively the cause of your problem, but that this exact problem has had people looking at the Starter Wiring, Connections, Starter Relay etc all to correct the Switch's mis-connection. Take note that when removed from the back of the Ignition Lock and actuated on it's own, the switch seems to perform flawlessly... it isn't till you actuate it WITH the lock tab that you note the lack of total rotation needed to effect proper contact. That is what Nissanman's procedure will show you, that it is NOT the starter but the wiring connection to it. Before you go tearing everything else out, check the Switch. FWIW E

Sadly, there are individuals who are "proud" of their particular brand of stupid and are willing to show it off. And this happens even after they're older and presumably more experienced. Pushing the limits.... if you choose to do so, expect the limits to push back. Sometimes the limits exist simply because they do and not by choice. Those limits tend to push back the hardest. There is a reason survivors get asked how they did it... think of it as crib notes from the exams of life. Some of life's tests are simply Pass or Fail... and nature doesn't have a reset button. But education isn't going to solve it, it isn't a situation that can be solved. As long as both the democratic fallacy (not the political definition, democratic as "everyone") and the individual's "dare-devilness" exist (and they're genetically handed down) you'll have folks trying to see if they can get "one toe over the line". In their mind, their opinion IS correct even when presented with evidence to the contrary (democratic fallacy). This same "fallatious" thought is also known for most of the new inventions, processes, and other advances in human society. It IS the individuals who are willing to try something new and adventurous that have shown us the way to advance society. The sad part is that accidents such as this MUST occur for someone to figure out HOW they occur and can then prevent it. Whether for individuals to learn how, or how to design something to prevent it. On a last note, as long as driving a vehicle is seen as a "right" and therefore undeniable instead of a "privilege" (anyone notice the synonymity?) you can't exact minimum standards of behavior. Even when laws are enacted to define conformance you will find that the "punishment" is never truly applied. How many times have we read about the schmuck who was involved in an accident while on his 3rd, 6th, or more DUI? How is it they're back behind the wheel? Because nobody really stops them. The car doesn't check DMV Records to see if you're licensed! Heck, even those with DUI Starter Inter-Locks have found ways to circumvent them... and been caught and STILL are finding their "right" to drive .... NOT rescinded. "Suspended" yes.... but they've also been caught with that on their record. How do you stop them? Do you put Internet ID verification technology into EVERY car, including our Z's to ensure that no driver with a suspended license or without one can operate that car? How do you enforce that? What about the ones that figure out how to circumvent the system? (Remember the "Democratic Fallacy"?) All of these questions demand an accepting submission to the limitation of individual freedom imposed. Which brings up the matter of having to limit the rights of people like these. Which seems ... appropriate. What about MY rights? Just doesn't seem to be an easy solution to be found. FWIW E

All's well. David was kind enough to contact the mechanic directly and will be exchanging the part/money directly. Another Z will be kept on the road and running. Thanks for all the input guys. Enrique

Went to see my mechanic, (that's who's doing the repairs for the woman that owns the car... her "baby"). The car is a 81 280 ZX, and it is the plastic "surround" that attaches to the dash on the underside and in the center of the car. It includes the Ash Tray and Cigarette Lighter. The thieves yanked on the plastic trying to rip the radio out of the car and broke the driver's side of the plastic. Hope someone can help get this woman's car back to her in good shape. Thanks in advance. Enrique

The person I'm listing this for just stated it as a piece for the 79-83 ZX's, and I'm hoping to get more information from him tomorrow. It isn't the faceplate itself, apparently this part surrounds the radio AND the heater control area. (I'm not very familiar with the ZX, so I'm not sure what he is referring to.) I'll post tomorrow. E

Wanted: Radio Console surround, Blue. This is to get a theft recovery vehicle back on the road in good condition. Let me know if you have one. E

You may want to reconsider that. Not the paint, but letting your son drive it. The Z may be deemed a "Sports Car" by your insurance company. Young male driver PLUS Sports Car = Outrageous Premiums Also; Young male driver PLUS Sports Car = "Hey y'all, WATCH THIS!!!" ending with: "Sorry Dad, I didn't realize how powerful she was.... Do you think we can fix her?" There are other stories on this board and other forums atesting to this. It isn't that your young man is necessarily irresponsible, it's just that the car DOES do that to folks... Heck this forum is proof of that, go read the responses from new owners ... 30+, 40+, 50 and 60+ years old ... that say the same things: "It's sporty, it goes fast, it handles well, and ... ooops, don't do this...". It's like having a beautiful 16 year old daughter... you know EXACTLY what her date is thinking.... and he can deny it all night long but you would just have to inflict painful, permanent, disfiguring bodily harm.....IF something were to happen. At that point even a eunuch would be suspect. Do you follow my drift? Let him drive it as a "treat", but then don't be surprised that he discovers that just about any key will turn the ignition lock, or just how simple it is to hot-wire. No personal experience here, but plenty of "I seem to recall someone posting about that." 2¢ E

Fresh Air Vent. (Tell your date that it's the release handle for the side access door up by the hood and see if she doesn't pull on it.... ) Why you would equate that with the Choke Lever or the Heater Controls -- I don't know. Then again, it may be that you saw a Fresh Air Vent knob by the fuse box... which gives rise to other questions.... FWIW E

Adam: Don't know that I can offer much help on this one as I haven't dealt with an AC Z car for years. (By the way that acronym rolls of the tongue... AC Z!) I do recall removing the cable behind the blower motor housing from a car with AC in the boneyard years ago, and other than having to "feel" your way there and using a 90° screwdriver (or a very short stubby, like a P2 bit in a holder), I can't suggest anything there. Lying on the floor and looking up, or using some inspection mirrors might help, but don't know that I can offer much more. Anyone else out there that may shed some light? E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=6981 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4429 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7291 Apparently the software that "shrinks" the URL has changed and now "t=" needs to be "threadid=". Interesting that the software is still there to shrink URL's but not smart enough to update and correct itself due to the change. I wonder just how many hundreds of similar URL links all over the threads are now .... dead. 2¢ E

The dura-blocks are excellent for those who have a hard time using the edge of their palm AND keeping it in mind that they must be careful not to "groove" the surface they sand. There are different styles, shapes and lengths. I have several and each has it's purpose and size of sheet it uses. The block with the included water hose is a "cute" idea, but you can duplicate that effect by simply hosing or taping a hose above the panel as you work. For 21 bucks, you could probably pick up a couple of the dura blocks. The only advantage I can see to that set up is that you wouldn't have to refill your drip bottle (I use an old salad dressing plastic bottle with the reduced hole cap) or continuously reach down to re-soak your rag or your sponge. I can't imagine how messy it would be as you sand though. FWIW E

Don't know if the system changed so much by the time it got to the 280's but the eyeball vents in the 240 are ONLY for fresh air. You'll never get heated air out of them unless it's an extremely warm day outside and your cowl bucket is hot. E

No, slow and slower seems to be about right. About the only thing you can do is to change the motor to another style. There's a thread regarding the Honda Civic motor that you can search for. HTH E

What is the black box that is wrapped up in the wiring? I'm not familiar with any item such as that in the OEM wiring. If it is a Wiper Delay module, that may be the problem right there. I have no idea what the wiper problem is, intermittent, non-functioning, slow operation.... so it's impossible to offer solutions. You mention that they ceased operating at the time you chipped off the tar mat (good move by the way), so it is highly conceivable that you moved or removed a ground or disconnected some other key wire. 2¢ E

I did some quick searching through the tech articles, because I distinctly remember uploading one, but no luck in finding it. I've searched with me as the author and using "wiring" and "diagram" and have too many results to try to pinpoint quickly. I uploaded the first one I could find that I knew had both the Acc Relay and the Rear Window grid. Take note however, that you often have to refer to two or three different diagrams for the early cars before you can say ... Ah... so that's how it's wired. Take a look at many of the diagrams where the Acc Relay is shown, and see if it doesn't show a second "blower" or some other anomalie. Still looking E

Those are from a Clymer's manual. I posted those some years back. The wiring diagram however, is incorrect for her car as a 71. It doesn't show the Accessory Relay nor the Rear Window Defog Grid. Don't recall if Ata's vehicle is an Automatic or not, but that's another difference in the schematic that's not illustrated. I've attached a slightly better diagram for a 71. It should be noted that almost ALL of the diagrams have some oddity/ommission that needs to be considered. FWIW E

In short words and not hoping to "stir" anyone up, the original poster of the car is responsible as well. Why? Simple, he was quoted $250 INITIALLY... for a full skirt install AND repaint? TANSTAAFL. Something was obviously and seriously not in-line here. The owner's expectations based on that initial quote are definitively suspect. What did he really think he was getting? The body-shop's quotation and explanation are ludicrous to the extent of lunacy. I won't even mention what I think of their work, but it looks commensurate with what I would have expected for a $250 complete aero install and paint. There's a reason that cheap ain't necessarily good. I'm posting a quote from the thread mentioned that says it extremely well: As we've all heard time and time again.... if something sounds TOO GOOD to be true, it probably IS. 2¢ E

For the record, and to possibly help those who are budding electromagicians... The width of the wire wraps around the insulated holder, while important in the overall equation of the electric circuit involved are not as significant as the number of turns. The number of turns are factors in the overall resistance that that coil adds/subtracts to the circuit. The more turns between the contact arm (one of the wire terminals outside) and the other contact (the other terminal) the MORE resistance your circuit has. At full number of turns you will have put the most amount of that contact wire into the circuit, and conversely, at the least number of turns the least amount of resistance. For those old enough to remember slot cars, this was the basic circuitry in your hand controller that allowed you to go faster. (A side note, while slot car controllers controlled the amount of CURRENT and therefore got warm even hot, this circuit just increases the amount of resistance, hence no worries about a major current flow through your gas tank sender.) This circuit uses the increasing/decreasing resistance to allow the needle in the gauge to deflect fully or not. I seem to recall that the gauge also had an adjustment hole. Haven't given that a try though. FWIW E

Can someone confirm that the sender has it's highest or lowest resistance reading at the top or bottom range? That way you could do a simple resistance check at the tank and know approximately whether it's on it's way to high or on it's way to low. When you had the sender out, you might have inadvertently contacted together some of the wires on the sliding surface which would yield a lower resistance, or worse yet broken that wire and have an infinite resistance. FWIW E

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but isn't there a small filter in the Banjo fitting that connects to the top of the float bowl cover? The needle sounds like the most likely culprit, but IIRC the banjo fitting filter (at least on the Sports) can also cause problems. FWIW E

I've heard that the ZX dizzy works best with the ZX coil... don't know the difference involved just that it was a recommended swap also. My car came with the ZX dizzy already installed. I've had one module go bad after being swapped from my car into another vehicle for testing purposes then returned to my car, but only after a 60 mile drive. (Just as I was entering the Canby Fairground for the Canby show.... talk about embarassing!) The module was 7 + years old (I bought the car in 01). Thanks to Arne who rescued me, I was able to get home. FWIW E