EScanlon

I should have known that you southern boys would know who O'Reilly was, I just figured he was another boneyard.... Then again, it may be that you southern boys don't know the difference between "new" and "fresh from the boneyard...new" Other than that one item, my comment still stands. The fuse or the unit may have blown. So what's your excuse for not offering a helpful hint? 2¢ E

Check the inline fuse for the blower, it's separate from the ones in the fuse box. Also, check that the blower is still operational. Depending on whether you bought it new (doubtful) or from the boneyard, you may have gotten a unit that was just about to fail. FWIW E

Two possible scenarios: 1) There are two (2) DIFFERENT flasher relays for the 4-way flashers and the turn signals. Your Turn Signal Flasher may be working, but NOT the 4-Way (Hazard) Flasher. 2) Your Hazard Switch is not working properly. FWIW E

There's absolutely nothing wrong with a spray can paint job. If that is sufficient for your needs and desire, then it meets and may possibly exceed your purpose. Heck, with proper care and careful application, you can do some wonderful finish schemes with a rattle can. You just need to know how to paint with one. The flash time, the compatibility of the paint to the base paint, and the need for double wet coats etc all play into a nice finish. I agree about a race car not having a $2500 finish, that would be ludicrous to consider ... unless you can absolutely guarantee that nothing would mar it... no chunks of rubber, side scrapes, no "bumping" on curves etc. which is doubtful. The point on WD40 is that it can linger for weeks or months, and sometimes you don't notice the fish eye developing on your paint until you're applying that second double-wet coat of very expensive special mix paint at $50 quart. There's very little that can be done at that stage. Your paint is now mixed, and activated, you can't stop and wipe it off without some really disastrous and horrendous effects. You can add fish-eye remover to the balance of the paint, but it's not a sure-fire 100% guarantee and it still won't remove the fish-eye from the previous coat, and it will show. Heck, even spray can paint won't cover fish-eye from WD-40. 2¢ E

Don't use WD-40 on a metal surface you plan on doing finish paint on. The oils, solvents and silicones or whatever is in there will positively and definitely cause problems... fish-eye, crazing, lifting, amongst others. The body shop I worked at would fire you if you used it on the premises. The problems it can cause usually won't show up until you're shooting the base coat of paint... at which point you'll want to shoot someone. As has been mentioned, either use a phosphoric acid (Metal Ready, Ospho) and then continue with a primer, or seal with an epoxy primer. While a mixed and paint gun applied coat is best, if done carefully a rattle-can job can suffice. Just be aware that primer IS porous and shouldn't be considered a "seal" against the elements. FWIW E

Run it under some hot water, that will soften the rubber up enough that you can then rotate motor and rubber sleeve out from the "fingers" of the bottle. Once it's out, you may have to heat it up again, but the motor will also slide out of the rubber. If you look through your local auto parts shop, you may find one that has the right diameter ... although length and nozzle placement may differ. But that's not important as long as you don't double or triple the length, and nozzle placement just means you'll have to re-route your tubing. Re-mounting the new motor with rubber sleeve should be fairly easy now that the rubber has been softened and will be evident by the time you remove the old one. Just look at the alignment of the rubber before you remove it. Wiring is just as simple since they're just 12v motors, make sure you match the positive lead and you're fine. If you want to test it, that's fine, worst case you'll be blowing bubbles into the reservoir. One final note on removing the old motor, don't pull too hard on the tubing attached to the bottle, you CAN break off the nozzle tip at the bottle and you'll have ruined it. It can be repaired, but it's a major headache to do so properly and do it without leaking. Your best bet is to simply cut off the old hose which will have undoubtedly hardened to near concrete by now. 2¢ E

There's a very simple way of "stopping" a thread.... quit participating. If you are still interested in what others post, then either you WANT to see what they wrote, or you don't want it to end. This was the same basic comment given when the Boob's thread started, if you don't want to see what's posted.... then stay out of the thread, otherwise you WANT to participate, nobody is forcing you to do so. Whether it's to try to throw in "one last word" or come up with yet another reason for stopping it.... it continues the thread. Having someone close the thread because it's a contentious subject isn't the solution, that just emphasizes that the people participating (and bitching about it IS participation) don't have the self-control to stop participating. At some point you have to admit that you're not going to win everyone over to your viewpoint, and you're not going to post them out of the topic. Walk away... After some of the meandering over non-related topics, and chit-chat over non-thread related comments that this thread has seen, it's obvious that the same people that were complaining about Khrystina doing the same are as guilty as they claimed she was. Except, they aren't 16 years old. Should we start clamoring for the thread to be closed because these individuals are posting? Walk away... Heck, we even have one self appointed moral cop! And over what? Some pictures that he's labeled as "sexually charged images" and then continues with: followed by the implication that he's going to e-mail her parents. Talk about imposing yourself on others.... do you practice what you preach?While you guys have been bantering nonsense... yes nonsense, the basic message that has been ignored is that when a female appears on this site she gets accosted with either sexual innuendo, public and direct "love" messages, or harassed over not knowing much. Mike's request was simple... cut it out. The ladies that come here arrive because they are interested in finding out more about the Z, whether how to repair or where to repair. They need to be encouraged and not chased away. While Khrystina may have been a bit more flamboyant than most, I can provide various posts as proof that she DID have responses... it takes TWO or more to tango and in this case there were more than half a dozen folks. And as far as being flamboyant... again I can point out several MALE members and other female members who've done the same. The problem came in when some members chose to "shout" it out, or "post" it out... when the threads wouldn't stop, they elevated their vociferousness and we have this thread as a result. Closing the thread doesn't do the "club" any good. If you're done with the topic... walk away. If you have something to add, post it but don't antagonize. E

If it's Strip Calk, acetone will remove it as the calk is tar (asphalt) based. If on the other hand it's some other form of adhesive, you may have to resort to a 3M Strip discs, they come in different colors, maroon, blue and brown. They'll be the least agressive method to removing that other than other solvents. Additionally, you could use some of the Rotor "finger" discs and be careful as to how much pressure you use. FWIW E

FWIW Khrystina DID post to the Boob's thread. E

Mikewags, you've missed the main point behind Mike G's post. Whle it may be true that people do post all sorts of things on the internet, and that they are things that they wouldn't say face to face with someone, by accepting that that is the way "things are" IS a form of justification. The only way to combat that is to not allow it to happen in specific forums, as Mike is saying. Mike's point is that he is requesting that we DO NOT do that kind of internet bullying here and that we treat female members with respect. Whether they are accosted with sexual innuendo, or being belittled for not behaving according to the established forum decorum, or being chided for not knowing how to repair their cars, it's the kind of attack that we wouldn't do to another member who is male. Those of us who have volunteered to assist in the day to day management of the site do try to keep an eye on things but, as has been seen, sometimes it falls on deaf ears (or prints in an invisible font). For the benefit of those who may not know, Mike G, the Yellow Jedi, is the owner of this site. He doesn't usually step up to the plate and make a post of this type. I've seen other forums literally torn apart, or plainly shut down instead of the admin making a request of this type. All that being said, if we ALL practised a bit more tolerance and acceptance we wouldn't have incidents of the type that precipitated this thread. FWIW E

At the same place as Camo's link, go to: 6 c 4 Or in the club's microfiche, Section 103-1 under Steering. HTH E

Various products, some of which can be expensive to buy for such a small repair. SEM has a couple of different plastic and vinyl repair products which will do a very satisfactory job, but the key to their success is to properly prepare and texture the repair. There are also other materials that will repair which will require painting or other finishing techniques. In a nutshell: Select your repair material, whether it's silicone, RTV, SEM or other repair product and read it's instructions. Find a method or procedure for texturing the finish so it will blend in. Some vinyl repair kits come with texture sheets used to impart a texture to the repair. Otherwise you'll have to come up with your own method. I've used both Plastilene, Candle Wax and Bondo for this purpose. Prepare the area so that your repair will blend in. Usually this means (in the case of screwholes) that you sink the edges of the screwholes (due to the stretching of the material by the screws). Effect the repair. FWIW E

... or the relationship between colors. Additionally some people see an idea on one car and feel that it can be made to apply to another. Between the color "blindness" and "mis-application", you end up with examples of this type. 2¢ E

Khrystina : You don't mention the specific code reference in the notice you received. That reference will give you the reason why you're being "selected" by the officer and will give you the best indication as to how to fight it, if you choose to. Here is the link to the Santa Clarita Municipal Code chapter (12) that deals with Vehicles and Traffic: http://www.codepublishing.com/CA/SantaClarita/html/SantaClarita12/SantaClarita12.html Additionally, here is the link to the subsection (12.64) which deals with Stopping, Standing and Parking. http://www.codepublishing.com/CA/SantaClarita/html/SantaClarita12/SantaClarita1264.html#12.64 There should be a notation pointing out the specific code paragraph that you are being held accountable to. Whether it's improper parking, maintenance or other, it's in that notice. That's what a lawyer would need to know in order to "fight" that notice. There is also a section on Abandoned or Inoperative vehicles and here's that link: http://www.codepublishing.com/CA/SantaClarita/html/SantaClarita12/SantaClarita1280.html#12.80 If you don't want to go reading all the legal mumbo jumbo, see if you can either scan and post the notice or at least take a good picture of it and post it. Then with the links I've posted, one of us should be able to help you know what you're being told to comply with. Take note of a piece of advice given to me years ago: Knowing the various laws helps you to know what they can and can't cite you for, however, if they really want to get you, at some point you're going to either break a law, or bend it to the point that a judge gets to step in. At that point, your reputation for a scofflaw or downright law-breaker can sink you. Pick your battles carefully. FWIW E

There's a bit of circular logic there. While your assumption is/may be correct, the logic for it isn't there. If your T/S and Brake lights were the same as your running lights (Park Lights), then in the Park Light AND the Headlight position (in normal operation) the extra brightness would be caused by extra voltage (not happening) or extra current (plasible but doubtful and intrinsically prone to failure, i.e. designed to fail). It would also mean that at night, one side of your car would be totally dark while the T/S "blinked" on and off. Additionally, your side markers both front and rear would be tied in. Brake lights are not visible from the front. The T/S and Brake lights are interwoven, both get routed through the combination switch and through the Hazard Switch. The Dash lights and the Park Lights (secondary filament in the front and rear lamp housings AND the side markers), are part of a secondary circuit INDEPENDENT of the T/S and Brake. Look at the wiring diagrams available, the colors of the EZ harness may not match the diagram, but the function must be there or it would have required a complete overhaul revision of the light system. The car is designed with dual filaments in the lamp housings and single filaments in the side markers. 2¢ E

I would first check the fuse for the lights. The Z has a separate fuse for each headlight and the other lights. I'm on the road so I can't access all my info to give you more information, but don't just visually check the fuse, pull it and do a continuity check through it or simply replace it with a new one if you're not sure how to do a continuity check. 2¢ E

Chiming in while on the road: Sorry I missed the show, but glad to see there was a good attendance there. Almost had my car finished when unchangeable plans put it on hold. I'll post pictures of it much later, now I'm waiting for a speedo cable. As far as the lack of categories, without re-hashing old tales, it's mostly due to the lack of participation. It gets hard to have trophies and awards for Z31 and Z32 models when only one or two show up. Conversely, due to the many and varied attendees over the years for the 510 model, they've expanded those awards. As I've been telling people, Blue Lake is a fun and laid back good time. The more we promote these local PDX shows, regardless of which club is the sponsor, the better the whole Datsun/Nissan experience is for those of us lucky enough to be in the PDX area. There are at least 3 strong clubs and a couple other "semi-organized" groups just in the Portland/Vancouver/Salem area, maybe more. I think it would be great if there were 4-5 PDX shows every summer, and why not a cooperative one in the winter? Northwest Z did a fine job at the Roadster show in the Rose Garden earlier this year. Often we'll see posts of someone complaining that all the "cool" shows are down south or east or north and.... heck, we have some excellent shows here, all we have to do is attend and make it fun. It's up to us in the NW to make the other parts of the US envy our shows. FWIW E

If you have one of the original keys, they sometimes have the key code stamped on the key itself. FWIW E

Having to refill the radiator "a couple of times" says you have a serious leak. Check the engine front, hoses and block for signs of where it's coming out. The thermostat may not necessarily be the reason for the overheating. I've been told that sometimes NOT having one can cause the engine to over heat due to not allowing the coolant to remain in the radiator long enough to shed heat. FWIW E

No, no no.... :nervous::tapemouth (and ignore the label for the 1st smiley) With your being 16, there are far too many older men who would be in deep serious doo-doo if any requests for pics came in... and that's just from their owners (read: significant other). So while the mental imagery may suffice, lead us not into temptation....or jail. :tapemouth Be careful or you'll have Billy literally tearing the roads up trying to get to your place. He's of the age that would really get into trouble . Heck, he once locked his keys in his car too, and then couldn't get out! Like Cafe he ended up crawling out through the window. FWIW E