EScanlon

Just from the pics it looks as though it would be ok. Since you're running points, have you checked that they DO open and close, and that the ground wire inside the distributor is ok. Also check that the connection to the distributor (negative coil wire) is making good contact. I'll have to ponder this, and maybe others can chip in as well. E

The spare looks like the "stock" Steel wheel for the 240's. The other two are mags, Beandip (Gary's) car has those. Don't recall manufacturer's name nor "name" of the rim. He might know or Arne. FWIW E

I'd almost bet that you'll find some rust under that tar mat in the spare tire bin. As far as replacing it, I did. After I had painted the POR everywhere. While POR is good for rust-protection and encapsulation, it doesn't do much as far as sound attenuation, which is what the tar mat is mostly for. 2¢ E

You can get POR in Black, Silver or "Clear" (which ends up being kind of milky white, unless exposed to UV rays, in which it turns kind of greenish). Before you begin wire brushing, remove the tar mat. Otherwise you will NOT be removing or addressing all the rust that's hidden underneath that tar. Voice of Experience here. Trust me, in that area, it can be like an iceberg... 2/3 hidden. Once you remove the tar mat, then either wire brushing, or Scotch pad disk clean up will clean it up enough to proceed. Since you're planning on using the POR, do all 3 steps as they instruct: Marine Clean, Metal Prep and lastly the POR. While Marine Clean may be "just" a degreaser do NOT use it without gloves. You will leach out every last bit of oil in your fingertips and you will find your skin cracking and feeling as if you "numbed" it. Again, VOE here. The Metal Prep is a phosphoric acid with some other ingredients added in. This is probably the most critical for proper adhesion to bare metal, and rusted metal. If you're painting POR over painted surfaces, be sure to scuff them up well, or you'll find that the POR WILL act like a decal on the painted surface. It won't peel up off the metal, but it WILL peel off the paint. VOE. When you paint the POR, don't just use a dust mask. Use a paint respirator, the ones with the carbon canister filters. When they recommend that you have plenty of air movement, the're not just suggesting. This isn't just a hint, it's a huge WARNING. Have I said VOE before? HTH E

I hope you got the LOCK and not just the SWITCH. If it's the Steering Wheel Lock that's causing the problem, a new electrical switch won't do anything for you. 2¢ E

Presuming that the engine does turn over, I won't mention wiring to the starter. The coil has a Black wire that connects directly to the distributor from it's Negative post. On it's Positive post, is a Black with a White Stripe (Black/White) wire that connects directly to the Tachometer. That is the "loop" wire that the Tach uses to sense the spark. The "return" leg of that Black/White wire is now Green/White and it leads back to the Ignition Switch, except there is a "T" connection that connects to the Ballast Resistor that's typically right below the Coil. (Don't forget about this T connection). The other side of the Ballast Resistor has a Black/White wire connected to it. This "second" Black/White wire causes problems in that being right by the Coil AND the Resistor, it's not unusual for people to connect the wrong one to the coil. This Black/White wire connects to the Ignition Switch but on a contact that gets power through the switch ONLY when the key is in the RUN position. Mix the B/W wires up and you won't be getting spark when you're trying to start, and since it won't start, you won't notice that you DO have power to the coil when the key is in the Run position. Only by a quick "quirk" of having the engine still turning over when you release the key might you get lucky to catch everything just right to have the engine "start" and then run. To identify the right B/W wire to connect to the coil, do a continuity check between the Green/White wire that connects to the Ballast Resistor and one by one the Black/White wires, with the Ignition Switch in the OFF position. The B/W wire that completes the circuit is the one that goes to the Positive terminal on the Coil. The other B/W wire goes to the Ballast Resistor and the G/W wire goes on the other end of the Ballast Resistor. That corrects the ignition wiring to what it's supposed to be. To check that you are getting juice to the coil: With the Ignition Switch in the Run position, you should be able to detect 12v between the G/W and the B/W wires connected at the Ballast Resistor. That is, connect your meter in place of the BR, or check the B/W wire to ground. Alternatively, with the key in the Start position, check the G/W wire to ground and you should also read 12v. The 2 wires that are encased in a black insulating sheath, are more than likely the "Key-In" buzzer switch wires. If they go to the side of the Ignition LOCK, then that's what they are. Hope this helps Enrique

Steve, don't get me wrong. I know it isn't easy, so I was being a bit facetious. Looks like you've received a couple of good suggestions. Mine was to contact your local area mechanics that work on those vehicles and let them know you're interested. Not necessarily fast, but sometimes you get a cream-puff that way. E

Good suggestion John. Steve, if it were easy it would be called FINDING and not SEARCHING. Or as the joke goes, it's Fishing not Catching! But aside from doing the logging through miles of confetti.... John's is what I use. Other than having the local mechanic know you and know you're looking. E

Check the ground wire between the combination switch halves. Without it, the switch won't finish the ground for the circuit, although your having any lights at all would lead me to believe it's ok. So, you might check that you have a working switch. That is, that it makes contact to ground in either position. As a last item, check that you have voltages at both connections with respect to ground and you should be ok. Hope this helps Enrique

Yes, the distance shouldn't matter. E

That's exactly what it is. It's a FLASHER. For your year it usually gets mounted on the dash support behind either the steering column or the center part of the dash. The Hazard Flasher usually ends up by the passenger kick panel. Hope this helps Enrique

Mikewags: Unless you've modified the front end of your car so that it isn't the one in your avatar, then you have a single bulb housing with dual filaments. Whether it is the Sealed Beam unit or an H4 Bulb housing depends on whether someone has upgraded it's lamps to use the more modern bulb. But in either case it is ONE bulb with two filaments. Could it be that both low beams are out? Yes. To check that, disconnect the individual lights at the front of the car. You'll find their connections at the center valance of the car, just inboard of the fender support. They'll probably be within a few inches of the horn respective of side. After disconnecting, you should be able to check for both voltages (harness connection) and continuity (lamp connector) to both filaments. That will tell you where to continue checking. FWIW E

Bil (240Zen); you might contact Dave and see what he says. Check that you have both fuses R & L in the fuse box, and you've checked them for continuity (and not IN the fuse box)? If so, another item to check is the Black wire that connects both switches (T/S and Light/Wiper halves) together. FWIW E

That isn't the rocker panel, the rocker panel is what is BELOW the piece you removed and underneath that aluminum trim piece on the outside with DATSUN embossed on it. The piece you have removed that pinches the carpet to the rocker panel is called a Scuff Plate. These are typically metal with a vinyl covering. The Vinyl will have the same embossing as the rest of the interior. Not sure if Black Dragon or MSA will have them, but it's worth checking. FWIW E

Or offer to wash his car..... Excellent gift! E

Check the common ground (Black) wire between the Combination Switches (on the steering column, RH is Lights/Wiper; LH is Turn Signal). You don't mention that your wiper or horns are having trouble, so this may be a bit of a red-herring, but that's one place to begin. E

Next step is to check the wiring at the Turn Signal Switch. Make sure you don't have a bad solder connection or wire. The Turn Signal switch receives power via the White wire and then connects to the Green/Black and the White/Black wires for the Right signal and the Green/Red and White/Red for the Left signal. Another item is the both Green wires at the Hazard Switch, that's the feed through for the turn signal flasher. When the Haz. Switch is in the ON position, the Green wire gets interrupted (no turn signals, nor Stop for that matter), so you want to make sure that it has continuity to it's connector when in the OFF position. Give those a check E

Carlos; The Turn Signal Switch is part of the combination switch. The Turn Signal Stalk, the lever you push up or down, pivots on the housing that clamps to the steering column. The switch you're looking for is on the opposite side of the pivot as the turn signal lever. Here's a picture: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23453&d=1211819365 The switch on the right hand side of the picture is the turn signal switch, the white portion with the Red/Yellow wire is the High/Low Beam switch. That loose black wire coming from both the left and right halves (meaning not part of the bundled wires) gets connected to each other. That's the common ground between the switches. Here's another that may help; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23426&d=1211688387 Saludos Enrique

Did you check the TURN SIGNAL Flasher? These cars have two flasher relays. One for the hazards and one for the turn signals. 2¢ E

It's been a while since I had to add fluid to my power steering unit, but I used to use regular ATF. Someone else chime in and correct me, but Power Steering Fluid IIRC is simply re-packaged ATF. E

Bruce; Go for it. Objective views are exactly what we need to read. As I've stated, I've not used other products, and as such, I don't think it's fair to denigrate them nor to imply something else is "just as good". As an Air Force Supply guy (Inventory Management Specialist 64570) one of the key things we were trained to look for were "Or Equal" items that a) did the same job/ function and were (ideally) less expensive. Sometimes you had to weigh one or the other over the other, depending on the current budget situation. Ideally, you had an actual test to determine suitability, and if not, you looked for testimonials from sources that were at "arms length". (i.e. not directly involved in benefiting) So, show the link and maybe down the road when I'm doing the next Z you'll let me give some of the product a try or ..... (hint, hint) (and hey, I'm just as cheap as the rest of you guys). E

If it runs with the starting fluid, it says you're getting spark, air and compression. Or at least in my thoughts. Have you checked that the fuel is actually making it to the venturi from the float bowl? Could be as simple as a stuck float valve, to some grit. I'm not an SU expert by any means but if it runs with the starter fluid but not on the gas in the SU's, that to me would be the first place to check. 2¢ E

Brian: Not to deny that SEM works well, but unless you've used BOTH SEM and POR and done comparative testing, the phrase "works just as good" is misleading. Also you've recently been posting about using Rustoleum for your engine bay, which leads me to question your statement about SEM. Why would you be changing brands? For this to be balanced, in order for Bart to make a sound decision, wouldn't it be better if those who HAVE used Zero-Rust or Rust Bullet to make their point known? That also applies to other products, as Brian has regarding SEM. However, comparative remarks should be by those who HAVE used both or more products, otherwise it's not a true comparison. That's why I'm looking to use a different product on the next Z I do, to be able to say which one I liked better, which one was easier to work with, apply etc. Just my 2¢ E

As I tried to point out earlier, this guy "trolls" with these type of questions. His prior set was about doing burn-outs and how to "improve" the quality and quantity of those burn-outs. He's looking for buttons to push to. E

Is this a SERIOUS question or is it another of your "troll" questions?