EScanlon

Exactly, the gauges make ground through the sensors in the engine block. As the resistance of the sensors changes the current flow changes as well causing the gauge to deflect more. An interesing note here, I don't have the information as to whether the sensors increase or decrease resistance as the pressure/temperature changes. This might be a good point for someone to point out. Hope this helps E

Ron; I think that what you and Carl did is one of the most important functions of this site. Where Zhome has "static" information (not changing quickly), this site has the dynamic information, the one that can change within days and even minutes. Noting the possibility of a scam before it can occur is fore-warning instead of regretting. Between the two sites, new owners can quickly research and read years worth of information and hands-on knowledge on the Z car. If an international site with all the knowledge and information that Alan T. has at his disposal were to be available, it would literally BE the Z Encyclopaedia. A search on Google, Yahoo or many of the search engines with web-bots performing web indexing will report this and Zhome as the two top sites. Does this explain to all why it behooves us to post and act responsibly to the whole Z community and not denigrate anyone? My 2¢ E

These are pretty simple gauges, simple analog dials. Check the obvious; power and ground connections. Past that.... you might want to find replacements. 2¢ E

Both require the sensor mounted on the engine for readings. If I recall correctly, they are both resistance sensors. As such, if you connect the Yellow/Red wire to 12v+ and the Yellow/White to ground, the gauges should "Max" out, that is, read all the way to the right. HTH E

Randy; Don't forget the adage that "You get what you pay for!". With that in mind, be sure to inform the shop manager that you will be looking for AND expecting QUALITY, and are willing to pay appropriately.... but not blindly. Then proceed to stop by on and off and inspect the job as it progresses. Don't try to "Stupidvise" but do look and ask questions. If there are items that need to be addressed, inform the manager what you've noted and ask him what actions he will be taking on them. If you note that something isn't being done to your satisfaction, and it looks as though it will take additional time to effect it to your satisfaction, then if necessary let him know that you're willing to have it done well. This may sound as though you're handing a blank but signed check to them. No you're not going to, what I'm referring to is that there are many valid "shortcuts" that can be taken in bodywork. The use of "red-cap" or spot putty is often used to give a quick fix to bumps, scratches or other small blemishes. The problem with that is that it can shrink days, even weeks after the job is done and the blemish will once again re-appear... except it's now under a fresh paint job. Asking them to use a dash of bondo (which won't shrink as much) will give you a better and smoother finish, except it takes more time and material cost. If you're willing to work with them and their time constraints, you may find that this additional cost is minimal. Lastly, that right front under valance. This is a typical problem with the Z. Especially after changing to wider tires than the cars were fitted with originally. The problem is that the tire grabs that valance and literally tries to rip it off the car. This is most noticeable when backing up and turning the wheel, or when going up and over a bump such as appears at the end of many driveways and the curb. The only solution I've found for it is to bend the valance a bit further out to increase the space between it and the tire. Interestingly, the driver's side isn't as prone to this. Ask the shop to look at this specifically. FWIW E

No theory about it. It works. E

Nissan's folly was in "hiding" their involvement in the new venture in the USA by using the Datsun label (and please correct me if my re-collection is off) as opposed to using the Nissan name. There is a myth / legend / report that says they were doing so to avoid the possible "disgrace" if it didn't take off .... as it did. The Datsun brand HAD been an automobile brand that Nissan had acquired, as the Prince name. The Prince name, if memory serves, was still available in Japan for some time afterwards as a product of Nissan. Don't recall if the Datsun name was available in Japan separate of the Nissan name though. But those "mistakes" aren't mistakes at all. As Steve pointed out, they're apples and oranges. Honda and Toyota had strong market presence each, and they were looking to put out a "higher" end vehicle, as did Nissan with Infiniti. The Plymouth and Dodge names, were acquisitions of Chrysler that were allowed to remain operational and not revived names. Mercury and Lincoln (more commonly known as Lincoln-Mercury) were also acquired brands, as is the whole General Motors line up. None of those acquisitions and mergers are analogous to the Datsun/Nissan situation. A situation more analogous to what Nissan did with the Datsun name would be if Chrysler were to revive the AMC name in order to introduce a new vehicle in some other country. 2¢ E

Blue/White goes to the Cigar Lighter. "Common" on the fuse box lid. E

Check with your paint store, and ask them for Fiberglass Paint Stripper. E

Getting the other rod is a good back up. What I meant about using the pipe, is that you would cut the rod and insert the piece of tubing to lengthen the rod and would insert both halves of the original rod in to either end of the tube. The original threaded ends would still be there for the plastic ball connectors. FWIW E

Arne's post has it I think. Item 29700 from the Cragar Wheels site he linked to. Good job Arne. E

Center cap is going to be tough, I found a similar wheel at Dayton: http://www.daytonwirewheels.com/classic.html But the center cap doesn't have that additional ridge yours seems to have. You could try calling them, but in my experience if it doesn't have Dayton stamped on the wheel (backside) they'll just tell you it's not their product and that's it. They won't hazard a guess or anything. But, it might give you something to begin with. E

Carl; When I read this, my thoughts were that he was referring to either it's "code" name or it's "project" name when in the design/ prototype stages. He may be referring to the story that the Z was named for it's "project" name because Fairlady wasn't acceptable to the US market, or the story of where it was named Z because it's the last letter in the alphabet, another variation being that Z is the last letter of the Japanese alphabet... which is ludicrous since they use symbols and not roman letters. Maybe this will help E

As a thought I was going to suggest getting a length of all-thread to replace the rod, when I remembered that one end of the existing rod is left handed thread and not right hand. So, as an alternative, what about a section of tubing, preferably steel for strength, that has an inside diameter equal to the diameter of the rod. You would cut your rod with a pipe cuter to avoid a sharp and flared out edge, then fit a section of the pipe to lengthen your existing rod by the amount required. You could also pre-bend the pipe to fit the required radius bend, then cut and fit the rod. Then either solder or braze the rod/pipe together or if not able to do that at least crimp the pipe onto the rod and use some of your JB Weld. Just a thought. E

Let her shift, she is a "pro"..... and she doesn't use reverse..... E

Check the wiring at / by the connector. There MUST be a connection for that wire, if not, send it back to MSA and explain the omission. You can determine where it should connect to if you compare the old to the new fuse box and see where the wire connected to the old and then look for a connection on the new that leads to the same area. HTH E

Arne, the main connection for the battery to the fuse box is through the Fuse Link (it's the only connection) and that wire is the White visible in the lower right of the inverted fuse box. E

That White/Red wire is either the direct connection from the Alternator or the one that connects to the Ammeter. So it's not really an "infamous" wire. Without it you won't have Dome or Engine bay lamp, Instrument Lamps nor Parking Lights. The MSA Box should have some provision for receiving that connection. FWIW E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=254807&postcount=13 While the car in the pictures there was overdone, by using too many colors and subtle graduations, the general paint theme -- without all the stripe shading -- can look very good. The main problem, to my eyes, is that that painter got ... carried away with their own concept. It's easy to do. The subtle fogged in stripes that repeat other themes or bodylines or mods (window louvers, indents in rear spoilers, triple Maverick side lamps, double hood "bump" striping) when done in moderation can lend and actually highlight body lines, mods and lend subtlety to otherwise bold changes. When the effect is as this car was done, it's like watching a 13 year old girl's first attempt at putting on "adult" style make up. Too much lipstick, in too dark a shade, with overly dark eye shadow and rouge and mascara to make a clown laugh.... This car would have been better done if the painter had stepped back 20 feet and seen that it was starting to get way too busy. Then again, there are folks that want it busy and bold. 2¢ E

You might also check that all the wires were properly seated in their cups. That was the problem on another dizzy problem. The coil wire was in it's cup, just not deep enough that it made good contact with the button's contact. E

I'm at a loss to understand the legerdemain you're describing. The 5°C difference is about 9°F; while that can be the difference between boiling and not, or freezing and not, in normal operation if your water cooling system temperature is close to either one of those values you have a problem. A second temperature gauge isn't going to alleviate that problem nor will it avoid it, regardless of it's accuracy. A more accurate temperature reading is important if you have a process which must occur at a specific given temperature, or be avoided otherwise. Thermostatic switches for use with the majority of electric fans are NOT calibrated to the umpteenth decimal, so if it actually kicked on at 187.7°F vs 185.036°F vs approximately 180°F is of little to no value other than data. The important thing is that it DID kick on at approximately the temperature it's rated for. If it does NOT, that is a different problem. If you're having a problem with it kicking on/off at more than 10% of it's value off from the temperature it's supposed to be operating at, then replace the switch. If the stock gauge indicates a rise or drop in temperature, having the second gauge would be beneficial only to confirm that the stock gauge is or isn't operating properly. But having the "actual" temperature down to the 6th decimal.... to what end? Then again, there are folks who jog with those watches with the miniature EKG, Pulse, O2, and Breathing sensors so that they can accurately describe at what point they ..... to what end? But to answer Troutman's original question: The second gauge would likely require it's OWN temperature sender. Connecting it to the OEM sender may in fact render both totally inaccurate or non-operable. The OEM gauge works on resistance through the sender, by adding a second wire to the sender's wire you are going to change the resistance reading. Additionally, the resistance range in the OEM sensor may be incompatible with the sensing range of the new gauge. Ron's pointed out a schematic for operating a pair of relays to run two fans at different temperature settings. That sounds different than what you are currently doing, but maybe not. HTH E

Except that the hook tool in the hand of most novice users = torn and ripped weatherstrip. Use the Rope in the channel "trick" and you won't have the same problem. That's the way that I've replaced a couple and also the way the FSM recommends. FWIW E

I've heard of using a latter rod from a 280 or so (going by vague memory here) and that it already has that bend in it. 2¢ E

One of the biggest problems is where you live. That car has undoubtedly seen many miles of salt-brine spring slush and winter ice-slush. Can it be saved? Yes, but only by addressing each and every area patiently and completely. Is there a cheaper way? Possibly by starting over with a car from out the south-west. California, Arizona and New Mexico cars are not normally exposed to the salt-brine baths of the Rust Belt (there's a reason for that moniker). But cheaper in what respect? Cheaper as far as the metal replacement and work you'll do. However, expect to spend a chunk on any and all vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces on the car anywhere. Where the dry climate is great for metal, it destroys soft pieces. Unfortunately in the East half of the USA you can expect to pay an extreme premium for a Z in good condition and a trouble free one is likely to be out of most young people's budget....heck, it's out of most ANY body's budget. FWIW E