EScanlon

While you're at it, please help ascertain for sure where the junction for the Heater Blower branches off from. Does it branch off BEFORE the Fuse Box or AFTER the Acc. Relay? There are numerous "???" items that take careful compilation from several diagrams to try to ascertain what "should" be happening, and it's still sketchy. Even the wiring diagram I point to shows TWO Heater Blowers. Both yours and Ron's show ONE. However, none show a clear connection for the power going to the Ignition Switch. Track that down just for grins and then try to answer "Where" does the Ignition Switch receive the power it then uses to start and run the car. Typically a "T" or branch is shown by a round dot over the connection to identify it from a simple cross over of two lines in the schematic. They avoided using the little "jump" marks to avoid really making a mess of things. Unfortunately after multiple scans, copier copies of originals and copies of copies, the end result is a grainy hard to discern wiring schematic. Then with the advent of computer scanning, those errors are then scanned and someone overwrites a grainy image with new vector line graphics and a mistake is now promulgated as fact. Can you read what the wording on the side of the Ignition, Combination Switch, Turn Signal Switch grid boxes is? How about when the error causes problems as in the case of the two White/Red or White/Black (depending on which schematic and generation copy you see) going to the tail-lights? Which one is which? The result is that there are many schematics out there, some with tell-tale errors and others with obvious omissions and others with duplicate/contradicting information. This also isn't isolated to the S30, the 311 (Roadster) also has the same problems. I've been trying to compile and discern as many as I can, but it takes patience to carefully pore over each little line from beginning to end and to do it on a computer rmonitor....and I haven't even begun to look at the 260 or 280 diagrams. Any volunteers? The final result is that while some assumptions are valid and easily verified, others take several different diagrams and vehicles examined before a guess can be put forth...and sometimes that's what it ends up being...an educated guess. FWIW E

Stephen, wasn't trying to downgrade what you did. You did fine. But Spanish is my first language, and it wasn't hard to write down the lyrics I heard. Some might argue that some of the terms were actually plurals or not. E

Yup. Take a look yourself. Right below the space between "DIAGRAM" and "(For..." in the title, you'll see a small box labeled "Acc Relay", with 3 wires connected to it. All 3 wires have "L" as their color designation. The relay takes 4 wires to complete TWO circuits...2 wires each circuit. The balance of your wiring diagram is correct in that it shows the SECOND relay added to the 73's downstream of the FIRST Accessory Relay, and the proper wiring for the switch rocker being lighted up. The problem with the wiring diagrams, is that it usually takes looking at 3 or 4 before you start noticing little inconsistencies. Both yours and Ron's need to be blown up real big before you start noticing subtle wiring details. While the one that I linked to does not show the Choke Light, and the Second Relay, it will be easier to trace than the later one. Not trying to step on toes, the wiring diagrams are just one of the more painful of the topics on the Z. Once you think you found a good one, you find an anomaly. Has anyone ever noticed that some of them make it seem as though there are TWO Blower Motors in the car? FWIW E

Spanish: Yo te quiero, yo te adoro, te quiero, te adoro, mi vida "I love you, I adore you, love you, adore you, you're my life" Tu cariño, tu besito, tu sonrisa, me tiene como loco "Your affection, your kiss, your smile have me crazy" (arabic) yo te quiero, a ti, mi niña "I love you, you, my girl" yo te quiero, a ti, mi niña "I love you, you, my girl" E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=157255#post157255 Use that one instead. Credit for that old post goes go Onuthing and MDBrandy. Ron, Steve, both of the ones you uploaded have errors in them. Steve's shows the Acc. Relay as only having 3 wires going to it, all Blue wire. Ron's does not show how the Ignition Switch receives power. It's missing the connection for the W/R wire from the fuse box. 2¢ E

Stephen; Is the cap a Baseball Cap style or more like a Beanie Cap, or a Yarmulke? I didn't notice a bill of any sort. E

Filipe: Having seen which bracket measurements you were looking for, I am wondering if you're trying to replicate the part? If so, why go to so much trouble when it's ONLY purpose is to hold on to the cable sheath in line with the Accelerator Pedal Clevis. You could use a pair of Zip-Ties and achieve the same thing. But that's just my 2¢ E

Check the Cowl Drain Tubes. These are located up behind the "eyeball" vents on the extreme ends of the dash. You will probably have to get on your back and with your head tight against the firewall shine a flashlight up there. You will see two rubber elbows that come down and exit via the side kick panel. If those rubber elbows are cracked or holed, that may be the source of most if not all your problem. There are other problems, but that one is one of the most probable. You can check these by flooding the Cowl Bucket. The Fresh Air Intake Shroud could also be a problem, but that would only affect the passenger's side and only through the Heater Blower, so check that last. As a second note, you may also have cracks or rust holes in the Cowl Bucket itself. To find these, remove the Cowl, insert a bare light bulb into the Cowl Bucket and once again get on your back in the passenger / driver floor areas. Look to see if you see any light. If you do, it's a hole. Lastly, if the tops of your Fresh Air Vent Tubes (they run from the front of the car by the radiator, all the way to the passenger compartment) are rusted through, due to debris sitting in the top of the "drain" gutter, then the water may be seeping in through there and then through the Fresh Air Vents. The only way to check these is to have a friend pour water onto the support underneath the Access Doors on the fenders while you get on your back. FWIW E

Careful with that graphite powder. Too much and you'll have contact between several of the contacts that need to stay independent of each other. 2¢ E

Austen's point is spot on. First things first....EVALUATE the car. You can't do that with all that grease, grime and dirt. Get a pressure washer and blast off most of that gunk, then using a carb or engine cleaner shoot all that grease, let it sit and then pressure wash it again. Yes, it will make a mess on the driveway, so it might be a good idea to put a tarp down, but as the car stands now, all you know for sure is that you have a very dirty underside. The actual condition underneath that grime may be as Carl pointed out. The white powder residue looks just like Brine or Salt residue. Washing it off is critical. If you want, stay away from the more fragile Rubber or Plastic pieces, but they still need washing and cleaning. Do the lower portions of the engine bay as well. You're going to do it eventually so doing it now is just a stitch in time. FWIW E

Marty: As far as using a Choke Lever for the Hand throttle, I erred there may be a problem with the pull angle on the cable. If you can correct for that, it would work. Take a look at the middle pic of post #4 (yours), and at the first pic in James' (240Znz). Look closely at the lineup between the lever slot and the centerline of the cable sheath. (Interestingly both of them have the Hand Throttle on the right, even though James' would presumably be for a RHD car.) You'll note that there is a distinct off-set to the cable centerline and the lever. In my haste to post, I neglected to point this out. Unfortunately you can't invert the choke lever either unless you were willing to have it act completely in reverse of the way it acts now, that is, you push it forward to actuate the Hand Throttle....talk about making it even MORE dangerous than it already is! The Hand Throttle only pulls on the Accelerator Pedal, and that friction fit does help to hold it in place, but it isn't overworked as you mentioned. E

Filipe: Are you saying you do NOT have a Choke Lever Bracket at all? E

Remove the Dash, - remove instruments, open them up and paint the insides of the cases with a bright white paint (Polar White). - check the condition of the cowl drain tubes. - attach tar-mat insulation to the underside of the cowl bucket and the firewall. - wash out all the defroster tubes, fresh air tubes going to the eyeball vents. - clean out the fresh air vents, use a clothes dryer long cable brush to clean from the front of the car all the way out the vent. - inspect, lube, re-gasket if necessary the fresh air vent valves. Remove the Heater Plenum - Open it up, remove the heater core, get it checked for leaks. - clean, paint and refurbish all the soft sponge seals on all the doors / flaps - check the condition of the blower motor and it's squirrel cage - remove and replace the fresh air vent assembly from below the cowl - check the condition of the fresh air vent ductwork - don't forget to use clean plumber's putty when replacing the fresh air valve back. - wash the triangular/square tubing connector to the heater. - re-lube and check for smooth operation of all heater control cables - check condition of short hose from heater core to valve and also the other heater hoses Seal off all the round holes in the rocker panel inner wall after making sure there is no rust hiding in the rocker Seal off the holes in the rear quarter inner panel after shooting POR inside the fender Seal off the space around the rear struts Theres a bunch more items, these are just off the top of my head. HTH E

Get the Floorboards first, then the A/C, then the Carpet. That way you won't be removing prior work. On another note, you might want to look up the Honda Blower upgrade, especially being in AZ and adding A/C. Also look into putting some form of Dynamat, Brown Bread or simple Q-Pads on the underside of the cowl and the firewall. All of those will help keep heat out of the passenger compartment. Check your cowl drain tubes also!! As far as the instruments, the only ones you HAVE to have connected, are the Tach, and the Ammeter. The rest, just make sure that you insulate any connectors and you should be fine. If you'll be running the car at all, you must also connect the Hazard and the T/S switch in order to have Brake lamps. Ignition Switch is obvious. The rest, Fuel, Oil, Clock and Speedo (only need to cap the cable) aren't essential to operate the vehicle. HTH E

Filipe: Chris' (26th-Z) second picture shows the cable hold bracket that I, incorrectly, referred to as being part of the dash frame. My car being an Automatic did NOT come originally with the Hand Throttle, however, I added it to mine and simply clamped the cable housing to the dash frame. That may be why my memory failed me. Secondly, if you look at the first picture Marty posted, you'll see that the original Choke cable bracket is already fitted for the Hand Throttle. You can either use the shorter length lever or a Choke lever but on the right hand side pivot. The second shows the differences in the travel allowed to the Hand Throttle vs the Choke. FWIW E

Not sure what you would have to do. It isn't because of the model of the tach, your 72 IS the "older" style, i.e. the "loop" or 4 wire tach. Rather it's because of the MSD. Check out the other posts regarding what they did. Myself I use a 280ZX E12-80 dizzy with my original 71 tach and it works fine. Sorry can't give you more help. E

Filipe: The bracket you might be referring to is nothing more than a cable clamp bracket. It attaches to the dash frame to lock the cable in place directly in line with the Accelerator Pedal Clevis (that funny looking "horn" on top of the accelerator linkage). The most critical part of the Hand Throttle is that washer visible in the last picture Marty posted. That is what allows the accelerator pedal to operate under normal foot operation, and still allow the cable from the Hand Throttle to slide through the Clevis. The washer actually snaps into the clevis. As far as length, if yours has been cut such that your cable doesn't have an end, then just have it cut to the length you need, and only leave as much cable outside the sheath as required for the travel in the lever. You could probably go to a Bicycle or motorcycle shop and get what you need to repair it. FWIW E

If you pull off the harness and connect a spare set of instruments, most critically the Ammeter and the Tach, and connect the ignition switch you can probably get away with it. But on another note, Why? Wouldn't it be easier and safer to just park it until the work is done? Just asking... E

Ahh...an MSD. That has it's own issues, do a search here using MSD Blaster and you'll find a couple of posts on it. E

Well, technically, that's not buying. Buying involves giving money in exchange for an item. So, if he has not paid, you wouldn't have shipped yet. You normally would not ship before receiving the money. So if you haven't shipped, because he doesn't pay, you report him as a NPB (Non-Paying Bidder) and e-Bay will purportedly do their thing and reimburse / credit you for the bad auction listing. You relist and hopefully sell for more, or go back and give the 2nd place guy a 2nd chance offer. But on the general theme of e-bay: Unfortunately, many sellers use their feedback as a coercive tool to ensure you (the buyer) don't post negative to them....the same way buyers do. Sadly, if a seller receives your money, ships you garbage, or ships it in such a way that you receive garbage, you the buyer are screwed. If you try to resolve and it fails and you post negative feedback...properly... you in turn may get retaliated with, by an unscrupulous seller. Part of the problem with making a "full disclosure" as a seller, is that while you can add text to your heart's content, pictures cost 15¢ EACH after the first one (those prices are as of the last time I listed something). Adding other items such as BIN, Reserve, Q&A etc, all add to the listing $. You get charged an Initial Listing Fee based on your Starting Bid, or Reserve or BIN, then pictures after the first, an extra line in the title description also costs, 10 day listings also cost, to be included in the gallery listings...costs, and when it's all done, you pay another fee based on the final value of the auction. So they nickle and dime you from beginning to end. Then you get charged to receive the money via Paypal. But as it has been mentioned, it's the best game in town. Yes, there's craig's list...but that takes careful work. Until then.... FWIW E

I watched it also and was bemused by some of the obvious plot ploys used. In the chase scenes ALL of the other cars seen are ... FoMoCo vehicles, even the truck. The only one that wasn't was a Volvo and that's FoMoCo also. Interestingly in the final chase scene, the driver's side in K.I.T.T. window gets shot out, yet it magically re-appears once the computer is turned back on. Now I understand that it's the computer programs that render the car AND the window bullet proof, but I wasn't aware of generating a pane of glass out of nothing. (The glass is seen there after the crash of the SUV into the side of the K.I.T.T..) The color scheme outside the casino was a very beautiful blue/purple color....and used as one of the leads to "Win your own K.I.T.T. Car!". Bet that color turns up as extra $ at the showroom. The female side-kick, daughter of the car's designer, while being very decisive and self-assured, becomes a twit in an emergency. She also can't shoot a machnie gun less than 3 feet away from another vehicle and hit it...ANYWHERE. In the crash at the end, the bad Sheriff gets killed, sitting behind the driver who doesn't, also the front passenger dies but the rear right passenger doesn't. The FBI agent's scene with the sleeping girl....totally irrelevant. Except that she rebuffs a stereotypical puppy-love struck fellow agent who is marmy enough to dislike anyway, so why make it plain she's a lesbian? or at least bi-sexual? Like I said, irrelevant. Several other items, but I'll let others comment. Overall, I give it a 6.5 out of 10. Watch-able, but not in the top 10. E

Post number 5 in this link has a wiring diagram that will help you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27896 But as long as the tach is connected to the wiring harness in the dash AND you haven't disconnected the wiring at the coil, the car should start. You don't mention whether the car starts but the tach doesn't work, or that the car doesn't start. If the first, check the wiring at the coil and the ballast resistor. FWIW E

The term in the U.S. of A. is B.F.H.; as in Big F"reaking" Hammer, but the use is the same. You know how you Oz types refer to a Hood as a Bonnet? Well, how do gang members in Australia refer to their home turf? Just asking... E

Not to be a "Spell Police"; but would you mind explaining just HOW you plan on getting your answer from this forum without READING? Or any other forum? And if you say you have some form of voice program that will read it for you, then wouldn't SPELLING count? Just asking... E

Some items that doesn't get mentioned enough: DRIVE the car once you have it started and running well enough to do so. If there are problems, you'll note them and can address them appropriately. If there aren't any (hopefully), then you can address anything that doesn't measure up. Remember, the technology for this car is close to 40 years old, don't expect it to be like your 350Z. I know you know that, but you'd be surprised at the number of folks who ask how could they modify it to go 200mph if only they .... Lastly, DON'T start disassembling various different areas all at once. It's generally very hard for even the most knowledgeable mechanical gurus here to discern what all you have done when they're trying to walk you through otherwise simple problems. Did I mention that you should DRIVE the car first? While my cautions may be falling on veteran ears, hopefully will help remind others out there. FWIW E