EScanlon

I'm with you Stephen, these guys that see girls as guys.....they must be looking for it. Then again, since I'll probably never meet the person, I'll judge by the "cover". That person appears female, therefore she is. I'll leave the Crocodile Dundee method of verification to others. There's enough crap in the world without willingly looking for it. As far as the car, wish the reserve were a bit lower as it generally looks to be in acceptable shape. Wish my 1600 had looked as good when I got it. FWIW E

I don't follow what you mean. Maybe I didn't look close enough. The rust in the engine bay is typical battery acid rust. Not the best thing to find, yet not impossible to deal with. Nor that dash of bubbling in the rear fender. (Is that what you were referring to?) The Plano car will go for 8K or more (if that meets reserve), the California car will probably only go for 4 or 5k. The car with the girl has a reserve of 5k, and all those prices...are in line with what they're selling for lately. FWIW E

Darbji: I pulled up this search in the Photo Gallery: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?mcats=all&si=headlight+covers&what=allfields&name=&when=0&whenterm=&condition=and And although 3 pages came up, there was only one silver Z in the bunch....and then it was a side shot (page two). My car is on page 3 (Gold Z straight front shot with JDM covers). You might try other variations of the search and see if you find what you're looking for in case no one posts a pic. HTH E

Check this one out!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-2000-Datsun-Roadster-Fairlady-2000_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6188QQihZ002QQitemZ120147697438QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW E

Chuck: While the one you posted may be inexpensive, expect at least $2k in just getting the interior and other items PLUS your time or other's time. Take a look at this one in Plano: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-2000-Roadster-1969-Datsun-2000-Roadster_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6188QQihZ001QQitemZ110154892481QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Or this one in California: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-Convertible-1966-Datsun-1600-Roadster-SPL311-Original-Owner-Nissan_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ011QQitemZ320142575603QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Like with Z's....get the BEST example you can afford. Let the previous owner take the depreciation loss for the renovation (if there was one) or in rare occurrences, take in the profit from having maintained it well. FWIW E

Hey! No ganging up on us! We stumble on our own..... E

Also, the 510 was the Bluebird. E

I thought the 1960 SPL212 Fairlady and the subsequent 310 and 311 models had the "Fairlady" name before the Z had it. E

Ok, Jason, you're now on my hate list with a bullet!!! Rick: Of COURSE, I trust you. I trust you to tell us you'll respect us in the morning, only put the tip in, and make sure we enjoy it! Do you think Bill is keeping a low profile because you're a bad shot? E

Throttle plates? Are you running Webbers or Holley's? The S.U.'s use a piston that rides up and down and wouldn't be affected by vacuum in the manner you cite. I'm sure the mechanical gurus will speak up and give you more enlightenment but the S.U. carbs wouldn't be doing what you are describing. Now, it could be the infamous Sticky Throttle linkage that's causing your problem, and it's due to the geometry of the transfer link that's mounted right on the firewall. The link I'm referring to is the barrel with two arms at approximately 90° from each other that transfers the forward/back movement of the accelerator link to side to side movement required to rotate the carburator link connecting both carburators. The characteristics of this "stickiness" is that the throttle will push in OK for a short distance up to a point then you need to push harder to overcome the resistance you meet and it releases suddenly causing you to "floor" it. There have been a couple of fixes suggested, from cutting and re-welding the arms of that link, to changing the link arms, to tightening the play in the links in order to eliminate this "kink" in the travel of the accelerator. I'll let the mechanical guys kick in their thoughts as to the best way to overcome this. HTH E

Don't say "Good-Bye" ... say "See you later!" Hasta Luego... E

The 67.5 was still a "low" windshield model, it wasn't until 68 that they went to the "high" windshield (2" more). The 67.5 2000 (SRL311) is generally accepted as the rarest of all of them as there were only a few hundred manufactured. Any year has two positions for the seat track to be mounted in and you can always drill a third set of holes and move the seat even further back. Some guys even go for the Miata seats with the speakers in the headrest. FWIW E

Art: Received mine Mon. July 30, in Vancouver, WA. E

Or use the "poor man's" multimeter... a light bulb. Put the bulb wiring in series with the negative terminal and the ignition off. If it lights or even just barely glows...there's current flowing through it. This won't be effective for really low currents, but they won't drain your battery overnight either. Gary's fix works as long as the culprit is on a fused circuit thorugh the fuse box and not on it's own in-line fuse or even an un-fused circuit. The regulator is also a good candidate, and it wouldn't be on a fused circuit. FWIW E

Wash them with a good degreasing soap, making sure you scrub them well. Next, if they do not have a bunch of scratches and/or nicks and chips then use a maroon scotch brite pad and scuff them well. Be careful to NOT cut through to the metal. If you do cut through to the metal, then you'll need to re-prime at least those spots. Once the primer has dried, you'll need to scuff it as well. Last cleaning step is to use a Wax and Grease Remover. This makes sure that you haven't left any oils or other substance that could cause problems. Spray the paint. Since it is a spray can, spray a smooth even coat trying to NOT go too slow (to avoid runs) AND not too fast (to avoid dry coating), but be sure to overlap your passes (this minimizes the obvious "lines" of paint). Allow the paint to set between coats long enough to "flash" the solvent, but not so long as to dry. Apply at least 2 coats, more only if you want but not really necessary as long as you have even coverage. FWIW E

Careful guys, knowing Rick this could be just the bait to the trap...and we know he doesn't take prisoners. He just keeps zapping them from time to time, witness Bill's on-going skirmish. What's the score now Rick, 57 to 2 or 3 in your favor? As far as Country, what about Country Rock which you don't often hear any more. Marshall Tucker Band, Waylon Jennings, Hank Williams Jr., David Allan Coe just a few favorites from times gone by. E

Nope. The 71 uses what is referred to as a "4-wire" tach and the 75 uses the "3-wire" tach. E

Art: Don't put too much weight on Bill's post. I'm not sure he received the magazine through the U.S.P.S. on a SUNDAY. E

This is where it gets tricky. Some people have been able to remove the radio without removing the center console AND the heater control panel. Then again others being more cautious have removed both. In a nutshell: Remove radio knobs and the nuts holding the faceplate. Also remove the two screws holding the faceplate to the HCP. With faceplate out of the way, determine if you can slide the radio out (it won't move just yet) through the hole in the lower portion of the HCP. Remember that the HCP is plastic and CAN break. If you can, remove the two bolts on each side of the radio just behind the edges of the center column of the dash. These mount to the radio through the support bar in the dash frame. Your wiring will probably prevent you from sliding everything out, but should allow you to move the radio far enough forward that you can disconnect everything. If the radio will not fit through the hole, then you'll either have to remove the center console and slide the radio down below the HCP or you'll have to remove the HCP. FWIW E

If you're referring to the metal surrounds, there is a pair of clips on the lower edge that "bite" into the lower edge of the metal. The upper edge is held by the plastic rivets. From your title it would be easy to confuse what you are referring to as the chrome trim in the middle of the lens instead of the surrounds. E

Cracking ... or .... crazing? A crack is just that, a visible break in the paint. Sometimes in a straight line and sometimes in a curve but generally with a distinct edge to it's edge. Crazing on the other hand, can look like cracking, except now it starts to look more like shattered safety glass. That is, a cross-hatch pattern composed of various "lines" of cracks that criss-cross each other in irregular pieces but mostly rectangular shaped (or an angled parallelogram). Cracking is generally caused by flexing of the sub metal or joint and the paint not flexing to the same degree. Crazing on the other hand is usually indicative of a poor prep job prior to paint. Causes can be body oils, poorly cured red-cap or too thick primer or some other incompatibility with the base primer or filler or... Cracking can sometimes be masked by careful application of touch up paint. Crazing can also be masked with touch up paint, but usually will craze again. Crazing can also look like a stress crack on the paint on a rubber bumper. FWIW E

A fraternity brother of mine in the early 80's used to remind the rest of us that it wasn't "Por-SH" but rather "Pour-Shah". He and his girlfriend used to literally hold their noses up and bring the "pour-SHAH" into the conversation at least once or twice an hour, literally snubbing the rest of us with more mundane vehicles. Then, for some undisclosed reason (although we surmised that his girlfriend had kicked it when fooling around), the ignition key broke IN the ignition such that the remnant piece could neither be removed with a pair of tweezers, nor would it fallout when the lock was removed and tapped from behind. To add to the problem, there wasn't another key to make a copy from. The fix? Replace the whole ignition lock. After taking the 914 to a Foreign Car Specialist and being informed that the replacement lock would be more than $230, our fraternity brother insisted that an alternate solution be found. The repair shop told him that they could get a different style of lock for only $79. He told them to go ahead and didn't care to listen to any details. When he was taken to pick up his car and after settling the bill he was handed a key with a VW logo. He handed it back and stated that his car was a "Pour-Shah" and not a "Bug". The technician told him that although it carried a "PORCH" label, his car was mostly a VW, per our other brother's (the one had driven) recollection of the event. From then on whenever we wanted to rile our snobbish brother and his girlfriend (to pay them back for years of snobbery), we would refer to his car as the "Volk-SHAH"! True story. E

Walter: The fastest way to get you the information is for you to pick up either the Factory Shop Manual (FSM for short) for the year of your car OR Wick Humble's book How To Restore Your Datsun Z Car (check Amazon or Google it). In a brief nutshell, there is one bolt just under the windshield frame, two on the underside of the rocker, and several on the inside of the fender's engine bay edge. There are also several holding the headlight "sugar scoop" and turn signal valance to the lower front valance panel. There will be a few slight variations due to your vehicle having the turn signals in the grille rather than on the valance, and you'll have to remove the bumper etc, but for the most part just follow the edges of the fender and you'll find all you need to remove. FWIW E

Did you take the PIVOTS themselves apart? Those are the most troublesome part of the system as they are the ones that bind. Here's a series of links which address various points from some years back: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15587 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2487 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17148 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14432&page=1&pp=15 Sadly, one of the best articles on the subject is missing. It was written by Bambikiller240 (Carl), who unfortunately passed away a year or so ago. It thoroughly detailed the teardown and rebuild of the whole system. If Mike can retrieve it from the long gone archives that would be a boon to this site, if not, and someone has the text AND pictures (as they were excellent) maybe we can get Mike to post it under Bambi's handle. I'll see if I have anything in my archives. But aside from the wiper link pivots, the MOST important part of the system is the actual pivots themselves. The ones that poke through the cowl. Those tend to get corroded on the inside and will cause you problems even after you clean the link pivots. 2¢ E