EScanlon

Don't throw out any hinge pocket seals that may be just cracked or missing a small piece....there are NO, REPEAT NONE, ABSOLUTELY ZILCH .... replacements available.... You can do a lot of repairs and still have them function....NOT having them is bunches of problems... E

Sorry MOM, the Ballast Resistor wouldn't cause those problems. HCH, sounds as though it is dead or in the process of dying. Was it extremely warm that day? Heat has been shown to be one of the tell-tale events/causes of tach failure before it actually dies. I had heard Arne had a dead tach for me to take to a friend to see if it could be repaired and hence have a repair procedure. But in the fun over Canby, we never got around to talking about it. FWIW E

Your buddy Willy-Bob kept abusing it so.....

Ian has it right, remove the hatch from the hinges THEN remove the hinges from the body. Unless you want to try holding the hatch UP and AWAY from the roof as you slowly try to work the hinges out of the pockets.....which I wouldn't recommend as you'd more than likely drop the hatch and mess up your roof AND the hatch (even break the glass), or you will crease your roof with the top edge of the hatch. If you need to put some penetrating oil on the hatch phillips head screws, then see if you can put it on from the back side of the support bracket. Then, re-mount the hinges in place and tighten them down enough that you can use an impact driver to loosen the screws. Use the right size screwdriver bit...it's not your standard screwdriver bit... and you shouldn't strip the screws. 2¢ E

The switches ARE reversed ( I have a set for the RHD ) but the turn signal switch and canceling mechanism are the same for both L and R HD systems. The system is a "wrist pin" type lever that will allow the pin to go past (and move the lever) as it rotates in the direction of the turn. When the St. Wheel Pin now reverses direction, the lever blocks the pin and is forced (pushed) out of the way which is what cancels the turn-signal. The turn signal canceling mechanism would allow the steering wheel to turn numerous times IN the direction of the turn selected on the lever and therefore the pin to pass the "gate", but the first time the pin reversed direction and came at the gate from the other direction it would force the gate out of the path of the pin. If you turn the steering wheel more than ONE 360 degree rotation, the single pin will have passed the gate TWICE. In a TWO pin situation, the two pins would have totaled FOUR passes on the gate. However, the FIRST pin going in the opposite direction would push the gate back and cancel the signal. I can post a pic of the turn signal system if that would help. E

I don't think R&R'ing the steering wheel @ 180° off will prove anything. The Pin on the back of the steering wheel hub and the turn signal canceling levers are such that ONE pin would suffice in both directions. I don't recall the Z's wheel having one or two pins, but they wouldn't be "sided". The problem more than likely is in the little lever gate that is supposed to allow the steering wheel pin to pass while turning in the direction of the turn signal being operated, but NOT to the other side. At that point the little metal tab acts as a stop and forces the pin to cancel the signal. It's the same pin / lever method for each direction. More than likely the little swivel on the lower "gate" is gunked up and needs cleaning. 2¢ E

Whether any of us would be willing to buy either of these vehicles for $10k is irrelevant. Especially if there IS someone out there, so intent and willing to enter into the "upper echelons" of the Z collector mania (and it is one) that the money is a small ticket to pay. If any year is considered more valuable than another, then that may be because of styling changes or other distinguishable differences. Prices in the market place ALWAYS reflect buyers preferences. That may be why some people will pay large dollars for a Series I vs. Series II or other styling change. However, when people DO in fact compare VIN numbers as "the lower the better", then these cars ARE some of the LAST of the "Below 500" club. There are better examples out there of that club, but they would only BENEFIT from these poor examples being sold for that amount and higher. The only people who would conceivably see this as bad, would be people who just committed to SELL a GOOD example for less molney than these poor example prices and hence will lose out on the potentially higher $. FWIW E

Austen: At the risk of being one to spoil the fun. Get the leak problem up front taken care of FIRST, then address any mechanical issues you may have, THEN go for the paint job. IMO there isn't a sadder sight than a beautifully painted car.....in the boneyard. 2¢ E

As long as the rubber isn't pushing up against the tank, and you're not finding that the filler neck is being forced up and out of the access holes, then you should be alright. Problems ensue when it's barely ON the filler neck on the tank itself (happens when people trim the filler neck, metal or rubber) , or the excess is so long that it pushes the rubber up and out (rare if ever). Sounds like you're up and running, just make sure you do put a hose clamp in place, the OEM wire clamps are the best for this....they don't "bite" the rubber with hundreds of little teeth. FWIW E

The filler tube is easiest to install from inside the car. Feed the bottom end through the floor of the inner fender panel and the upper through the back of the gas access panel cup. That's the only spot you really might use heat to help soften the rubber. But do be careful if using a heat gun, it doesn't take a lot of heating to deform rubber / plastic. E

It might be as simple as not having put the seal washer on the plug or over-compressing it, and now you threaded the plug past the threads on the bottom of the pan and that's why it's rotating in both directions. Like Nissanman said, lever it and unscrew it and see the condition of the threads. It may be that or simply an over-crushed washer. FWIW E

Hmmmm..... You have me thinking. Would it be imprudent of me to ask; How many of you would be interested? A service is only as good as the demand for it's services. If you're interested, please chime in. If pictures are warranted from the posts then maybe we can ask Beandip to post pictures of his. I'll let his reply speak for itself. E

When Will and I checked, it was close to $45 EACH way, for a total of $90 in shipping alone from Georgia to Washington. Maybe there are cheaper ways, but the size and padding that must be added to protect the panels from being bent, crushed or damaged limits us. If there are folks who would be interested, and aren't put off by the shipping fees, then maybe it is something I could do for a nominal amount. The question becomes: How much is it worth? Take note, that this is a second overlay of Chrome on the existing blue colored vinyl tubing, and not a replacement or installation of new tubing. As it stands, I haven't found a satisfactory replacement for the tubing whether chrome or not. Additionally, if folks are interested, I can use other colors other than chrome. E P.S. For those who would like to investigate shipping charges, my Zip is 98685

I did come up with a solution, and on my "beta" it's still working well after 3 or so years. The problem is that it is exorbitantly expensive for people to ship their panels to me as well as pay for their return, let alone for me to be able to charge for what I do, even if it was simply to cover costs. E

I did come up with a solution that on my "beta" test is still going strong after 3 years or so. The problem is that it costs an arm and a leg to ship a pair of panels in either direction, let alone to me and back. I was hoping to offer it as a value service to the members, but the prohibitive cost of round trip shipping made it impossible for me to be able to offer it and still ask for a small sum to offset costs. FWIW E

duplicate post - site error. Never returned from original post. Post has been reported to moderator.

At idle I would blame the battery, since the rpm's aren't high enough to really be producing any kind of current. That doesn't mean that the alternator or the voltage regulator aren't partly to blame, especially if they're starting to fail. You might also check to see if you have corrosion in one or more of the tail-light bulb sockets or the ground straps to the lights. That causes more problems than you think. FWIW E

Check with your insurane company. While the increase in "value" of either car can only be realized when and where you sell it, the insurance cost will nick you from day one. 2¢ E

Mike, on the driver's side for the 71 there actually should be TWO wires and ONE on the passenger side. The second wire connects to the "Key-In" buzzer circuit. E

The Z's have TWO relays. One for the Hazards, one for the turn signals. 2¢ E

As you look at the back of the clock housing, the wires coming out will be on the right hand side and the adjusting screw hole will be on top. Note that this is only for the round clock that has the three mounting studs going through the case and then held on with nuts. E

Just noticed Jeremy's post from last August and noticed that nobody had responded to it either. The pictures you post are both from the FRONT side of the mechanism. They're also too blurry to be able to help you or anyone. I'll try to describe the screw pivots I'm referring to again: The Pendulum Gear, the one that runs back and forth, is held in place by two screws which hold the axle of the gear in place. I've adjusted several of these clocks and it is typically those two screws that are just a little too tight. A very slight loosening is all that is necessary in order to allow that gear to rotate freely. The screw that you use to adjust typically tightens or loosens the spring that the pendulum gear flexes. If you can post a better picture of both sides of the mechanism, I'll label the points for you. E

If you can get your fingers up to the connectors, see if you can trace the wiring harness back to a pair of the metal finger grips that wrap around the harness to hold it up and out of the way. The metal finger grips are plastic covered and are literally bent around the harness. You need to lift and bend them out of the way and the harness will come down off the bottom of the cowl bucket. If you haven't moved any of the A/C equipment for fear of venting the freon, that's understandeable, but you should still be able to remove the dash as that isn't connected to it. Also look at the corner between the firewall and the kick panel to see more of those little finger grips holding the wiring harness to the rear of the car. HTH E

Plus ça change...plus ç'est la même! E

And one of the more comprehensive links, which gets quoted very often: http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm E