EScanlon

The EXTERIOR use Rain-X, the stuff that comes in a Yellow Bottle with a Black Cap is EXCELLENT stuff. I highly recommend it on the windshields as well as the side and rear windows. I also applied it to my Headlight Cover Lenses. No, I wasn't refering to the Exterior Rain-X. The INTERIOR Rain X comes in a Black Bottle with a Black Cap. Sometimes (IIRC) it also says "Anti-Fog". If it says it's for use on the INSIDE of your Windshield, then that is the stuff NOT TO USE. DO NOT USE THE INTERIOR RAIN-X. I'm not the only one that has had this problem. There is no possible way of polishing the interior of the glass to the degree that this stuff requires. Additionally, it never really "sets" enough that it is hard enough to buff. As a result it's always catching dirt and worse of all is always a glare hazard from both the sun and other cars. So you're constantly cleaning your window and re-applying it and doing it all over again in a short while. The end result is that you cannot buff it clear and smudge free, and it's impervious to every cleaner I tried, even lacquer thinner and M.E.K. and it would NOT remove. Use it as your own risk, but this is a fore-warning. I kid you not. After battling it for two years, my windshield cracked. That's how I got rid of it. E

Rain-X for the inside is guaranteed FOG for life. Bluntly---DO NOT USE RAIN-X FOR INTERIOR--- Black Bottle/Packaging. It is a bad product, I used it on my Acura, and only when the windshield was cracked and was replaced was I able to get rid of it. You'll have streaks AND fog on sunny days (it's impossible to polish it to fully clear), it doesn't really work to prevent fog on the inside, and it resists Lacquer Thinner, Acetone, M.E.K., Naptha and Mineral Spirits. It will simply NOT clean off --- EVER. You will, in essence, RUIN your windshield. You might do another check though. Check the hoses to your defrost nozzles from the heater plenum. If those have cracks in the bellows portion of the tubing, you're loosing the bulk of your defrost capability right there. Additionally, are you sure your heater core DOES heat and isn't plugged? FWIW E

The core problem is a simple one. We all "know" one another, yet we couldn't pick each other out in a crowd of other people. There are thousands of cues one gives off with body language, manner of dress and SPOKEN words. The WRITTEN word is what the READER interprets. The difficulty in written communication is that the emphasis and tonal qualities that a voice would impart, are stripped away completely. As a result, a simple written statement sometimes falls completely and erroneously into the PERCEPTION the reader has of the words being read and the use of punctuation. Then again, some people are constantly putting their tail under the rocking chairs of everyone else ... waiting for it to be pinched....then they catterwaul over the "insult". This gets them the attention....good or bad....that they desire. Later, people forget that that is what they do constantly....vis a vis - Don Imus' detractors. Language used in a spoken environment can be misconstrued....and written is just as susceptible.

Enigma: The key question is....Does it LIFT and SEPARATE the ....AHEM..,,,Sugar Scoops? E

Vacuum advance mechanism in the distributor?

Wait up a sec....if the dash is out, you'll at least need to connect the Tach and it wouldn't hurt to connect the ammeter. The first to make sure it will run, the second so you don't fry anything. This presumes the fuse box is still connected to the dash harness. E

I'm still stunned. I'd only known Scott through this board, and now won't get the chance to meet him in person. Descansa en paz, Scott. E

SEM Landau Black #15013

Bryan makes a good point. Zero-Rust may be just as good or even better. I haven't used it and as such I cannot vouch for it's ease of use, nor it's long-term benefit. Unfortunately, in order to truly measure the long term benefit, we need to wait another 14 years in order for me to be able to report on the 20 year end result of using POR 15 on metal. I've used several other products, and though the preparation AND precautions behind POR are somewhat cumbersome, in MY experience, I've not come another product that functions in the same manner, nor encapsulates and shields the metal as this stuff does. I've been both professionally and hobby working on cars since 1982. What convinced me about POR was that a pair of fuel tank straps that I had coated, needed to be bent to fit the application, then when it was determined that these were the wrong length for my car, UN-bent....and the POR did NOT crack, peel, chip, or otherwise show the bend and unbend effects that commonly ruin other coatings. Additionally, I also have the stain marks on my concrete driveway that have been pressure blasted at least twice a year since 2001 and STILL do not show signs of being blown away. Is it the best? Well, check back in 14 years. Is there another product that works as well or does the job easier? Maybe. Again, apply it and we'll compare notes in twenty years or so. The "accelerated" time tests are nothing more than forced extremes. If you wish, you can read volumes of various opinions on what does and doesn't constitute an acceptable "accelerated" conditions test. Lastly, Metal Prep is NOT just Phosphoric Acid. It also has Zinc Phosphate in it's solution. Whether part of the chemical make up of the Phosphoric acid or in solution and to what molar or molal concentration and to what percentage....well that is what they call a solution formula. That is what separates Metal Prep from the plain old Phosphoric Acid available at Home Depot and no doubt what presumably allows them to patent it. But, the bottom line is this, when you use the three part process that POR recommends in their instructions....the system adheres properly, seems impervious to attack, and, time will tell, does the job you want. I repeat, it is when people have taken "short-cuts" and substituted other products that are "just as good" or "the same as" that they've reported problems. It takes a simple search on this web-site to prove this statement. The UV hazing effect isn't hidden, it's openly discussed and that's why they recommend top-coating it and not using it in an application where it's exposed to the sun if that is an undesireable effect. FWIW E

I'd forgotten that you were dealing with a ZX. That's the reason for my prior post. On the 240's the Acorn Cup is solid and the only way to access the headlamp to change it or an H4 bulb is to remove the Acorn cup from inside the fender. 2¢ E

I suggest that someone go take a look at their Acorn Cups to see if the back of the Headlamp can be accessed from the inside of the fender. Otherwise the discussion on the H4 lamps still does not address how to make it easier to change out the lamp itself...nor have access to the back of the lamp to change out the H4 bulb. E

OH??? From what I've seen with POR, this would result in your contaminating everything in your fridge and rendering it unedible and possibly poisonous. Additionally, you'd never be able to use the Tupperware bowl for anything else, it would become a POR hockey-puck. Lastly, due to the moisture in the fridge, it would probably set the POR off in no time at all. While the temp would reduce it's reaction time, the moisture would accelerate it. Sorry, but I don't buy this nor would I recommend it. E

Wear a paint mask respirator AND ensure lots of ventilation. This simply cannot be overstated, repeated enough or over emphasized. Buy the POR in Quart cans. Yes it is more expensive, but unless you are going to paint the WHOLE interior / underside in ONE sitting....you'll be money ahead in the long run. But this is strictly an advisory. It may be that with the other precautions below you'll be $ ahead buying in bulk. Use a DOUBLE layer of Saran Wrap or similar to reclose the can. Forget to do this ONCE and you'll find out how strong a grip POR has. If you're working a small area, pull out what an amount from the can and re-close the can with the double layer of plastic. This keeps it from being "activated". DO NOT return material that you poured out onto a smaller container back to the original container. That keeps the rest of the can from being "activated" Use Lacquer Thinner to clean off your skin if you get any on it. Otherwise, as has been stated, you will have to WEAR the POR until your skin sheds it. Follow the Marine Clean and Metal Prep instructions faithfully. Some members have complained that the product didn't work properly after taking assumed short cuts/ substituting products. Those that have followed the instructions are happy and recommend the product. You decide what you want. Use disposeable brushes. Don't bother with the foam ones as they will just start to rip and tear in a few minutes as the POR starts to set within them. Buy "los cheap-os" from Harbor Freight or the like...like a case of 25 for $5 or so, then simply throw the brush away when finished painting. It's much easier to pick out the one or two bristles that fall off than to pick out the bits and pieces of foam. Using an expensive brush won't make enough difference to offset the cost of the brush and the amount of thinner required to clean it up well enough that it can be reused. Wear Latex or Neoprene gloves. Again, available cheaply from Harbor Freight and will make it so much easier to clean yourself up afterward. Did I mention: "Wear a paint mask respirator AND ensure lots of ventilation!"?? If you're planning on top-coating the POR with another type of paint, you can do it while the POR is final setting. Wait till it has set to the "finger-drag" stage then you can just paint right on top of it. This will eliminate having to use their Tie-Coat primer. If you let the POR set completely, then you will have to use the Tie-Coat primer as it's the only way to get other paints to stick to the POR. It is far better to get an even coat than a thick coat. In fact, a thick coat may react with the atmospheric humidity and not work as well. There are more, but these are the most important, IMO. E P.S.: Did I mention: Wear a paint mask respirator AND ensure lots of ventilation.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6231 E

There is only ONE fusible link on a 71 240, it's located AT the starter and connects the wiring harness to it. Look for the cable coming from the positive end of the battery and where it connects to the starter there will be a wire with a connector on the end, that's the fusible link. Check with the dealer to get the right replacement. E

And the plugs DO keep the water out....unless you're trying to float the car or do one of those river crossing feats with snowcats as they do in the northern states once spring starts setting in. E

Now remind them of the fable of the little red hen....and DO NOT lend them your car to drive....after all, isn't that the ONLY reason they bothered to be bothered to help .... at their convenience? Looks good though, but you'll have to submit your application to the Yellow Z club and start a SouthEast chapter.... E

Besides Rick, since you're "down under" wouldn't the sunroof in your case be installed on the floor pan? Or what's the Aussie term...Buttock Pan? We're just going to have to post Rick's video contribution some time back, something about the toad population in Australia...which I can't find at this point..... Argghhh E

Thank you Walter...that was informative. Are there any other nasty or filthy habits / traits that you feel we should know about? After all, I don't think the question was asked "What do you think about sunroofs?" but maybe I missed it....OHH!! That was your offer!!! Well, heck, that should make it easy to top..... Ian, will this retort do? I'll PM you so as to keep this away from "Enquiring" minds. E

What about the gasketing around the edge? If so, I may be interested. E

What is your budget for this do-it-yourself project? If it's over $150 then it might be easiest to buy brand new and cut to fit carpets made to the OEM pattern. Just my 2¢ E

What is it you want to know? There's a ton of info on this site, do a search and then post your answer. E

Since it allows you so much time before you MUST sand for clear-coating, check to make sure it is not too EARLY to sand at all. You'll know it as soon as you start to sand though, if you end up with little balls of paint literally falling off the car, and your sandpaper getting clogged within a few strokes....the paint's TOO fresh and must cure longer. You could "accelerate" this process a bit, by using plain old temperature. But I don't know if you want to try raising the temperature in your garage to 150° or whatever the data sheet says is the optimal curing temp. But note one important item, if you DO begin to sand, then you're committed to doing the whole car, not just a piece and then figure what the heck and start painting clear. Appearance, gloss and most importantly texture will come into play then. FWIW E

Sure looks purty!!! Check the data sheet on your paint for the length of time you have to clear coat without having to sand. If you're going to be on the outside limits of it (and while the data sheet is somewhat "pessimistic", meaning you might be able to get away with 48 hours if the sheet says 36, but don't use that as a guide), you might consider going ahead and wet-sanding the color base NOW and eliminating the bulk of the orange peel you've had AND that run. What I'm trying to say, (you're right the RD versions can be tough) is that IF the time before you MUST sand the color to apply clear is like 24 hours, then go ahead and wait and let the paint cure to the sandable stage. Again, this will be listed on your data sheet. Then using the grit paper recommended, sand the color base and remove any orange peel and the run. If your sandpaper starts clogging up with little balls of paint, then it's too soon to be sanding. STOP and let it cure some more. If on the other hand, your data sheet says it's ok to clear coat within 48 hours, then you can go for it. BUT, and this is a big one (no pun intended), if you have ANY imperfections you want to address (that run), NOW is the time to do so. When you shoot the clear, it will MAGNIFY any flaws, and make it harder to eliminate that run and / or the orange peel. A note on painting clear is also important to make. Shooting clear is unlike shooting regular paint....while being the same thing as shooting paint. Huh? While you do load your gun the same way, reduce the clear the same way, and add any hardeners etc the same way, when you shoot clear....YOU CANNOT SEE IT WELL. That's because...DUH!! It is CLEAR! So, in order to avoid running the clear, or not shooting enough on any one panel, use additional lights all over the area you're painting. In fact, if you have someone to help you, have them hold a lamp over the work area (and have them watch their cord) so that you can see by the GLOSS of the clear as you paint it where you have and haven't covered. Additionally, you do not need to start with a heavy coat nor with a mist coat. Start with a single pass (also referred to as a single wet) coat. Go all around the car, and then repeat after allowing it to flash. Additional coats will give additional luster and "depth", PLUS they'll give you something to buff if you want to really gloss the car out. You can be proud of what you've done up to now. Good Job! Hope this helps. Enrique

Don't have the 260 diagram, but if it's connected to the Black / White wire coming from the coil, then it may be the resistor that's by the coil to drop the voltage at the points once the car is running. If you trace the wiring to it on the diagram, the resistor is bypassed while the starter is engaged, and current then flows through it once the car has started and the ignition switch is in the RUN mode. Hope this helps Enrique