EScanlon

JimmyZ is spot on. Except for the convertible part. The 350Z convertible is nice, it's just not a Z. E

I've used both, and it just depends on how much time I need to devote to it. Haven't really found a huge difference between one and the other except for the speed of the set. You can also accelerate the speed of the standard with a hair dryer or a small heat gun. One note of caution regarding the application of heat, it WILL make the JBW runny as if it were warm honey...but it will also set much faster. I would say that the biggest factor in using one over the other is how long will it take you to cover the repair area, properly lay out the reinforcement cloth and also saturate it, without having the JBW set. This is the same consideration that I use when mixing Epoxies for the R/C boats. Longer Set times = more time to work with before it is too late and it starts to set hard. The longer set time also allows you to warm it up and therefore get it to flow out and eliminate spikes or spatula marks. When I'm holding a piece of molding clay to a piece and I don't want to wait forever for it to set, then the Kwik Set and a bit of heat is indicated. Actually, Beandip is the one that discovered this stuff, and his first suggestion was to use it in place of the POR Mesh material. At first glance and comparison, you'd be hard pressed to discern the difference....except for the color. The Anti-Silt is a darker shade than the POR Mesh, but since color is not a characteristic that affects it's performance it isn't a relevant difference. Other than that, it really does remnd me of Fiberglass Strand Mat, but only a very thin sheet of it. I only tried using it because I didn't have anything else handy...and it worked very well. I've used Silt Sock for the drain tubing I've interred in the back yard. I'm on a hill, and proper drainage is a key in any landscaping project here especially since the soil is primarily clay. The material that I've used on my tubing is drastically different from the material that Gary (Beandip) brought by, so I can only call it a silt block becaue that's what he referred to it as. When I stop by the hardware store later, I'll look into it and advise. Yikes...do you have the time? Vinyl in ANY of it's forms, hard, soft, flexible, etc. is a real slippery substance to properly glue / repair / patch or work with. While some people will claim success with one repair compound, the same won't work with another example that "should have been the same". And vice versa. I'm not trying to make it difficult, or try to hide something, but this is something that will vary even amongst upholsterers. Where one guy will swear by one, the other will ridicule it. This is because of the dissimilarity between the vinyls themselves. So, with that said, I use primarily two different types of repair glue. One is an excellent harder vinyl repair glue, the other is a better softer vinyl repair glue....amongst the "soft" vinyls. In the "Hard" vinyl category...I use one... Household GOOP, this also works well with some plastics...but it MUST have a good grip. The two products are: 1) VYNA BOND - Vinyl Repair Patch. Mfg by: PDI Inc.Circle Pines, MN 55014 Ph 612-785-2156 2) VLP - VINYL / LEATHER Repair. Mfg by: Performix, a div of Plasti Dip International, Blaine MN 55449 Ph 800-969-5432 Both do a superb job of gluing vinyl and even leather. But I would recommend you play with them so YOU get used to them rather than just slap it on and go. The best tips that I can give you is to use the LEAST amount of glue possible, while not starving it for proper adhesion, and make sure the surface of the bond area is as clean and debris free as possible. Lastly make sure that you've relieved whatever pressure might pull the vinyl apart for the amount of time it takes the vinyl repair to set thoroughly. There's tons more I could write and believe me when I say that there will be half a dozen other opinions. So, let's let them chime in. E

If it didn't take so much JBW to saturate the Fiberglass cloth / strand mat, it would be ideal. But that's the main problem. Fiberglass whether in cloth or mat, requires that it be thorougly satureated...as in NO air pockets....in order to achieve it's best strength. Otherwise the strands WILL shift, and will break...they ARE glass. They function very much like re-bar in concrete...they strengthen, but aren't the main source of strength for the slab. By the time you mix enough JBW and squish it into the fiberglass....it's damn near SET...not a good way to start. Now the screen suggestion is very good and I have used that and it does work very nicely. Biggest problem with that, is that you absolutely MUST gouge the plastic to give it a good grip onto the back, and you must use enough JBW to thoroughly coat the screen. Another real good source of thin fiberglass...is the cloth from the POR folks that they use to bond with their paint for minor surface repair. I've even used some of the fabric used to limit silt seepage into lawn drains...it's a very close match to a single layer fiberglass mat. The main key with any of these repairs is that the backing material needs to be STIFF enough to truly reinforce the plastic as well as bond it together. By saturating cheesecloth, nylon screen (even metal), or silt sock material, you give the JB Weld / Fiberglass Resin / POR / paint the strength to resist cracking from flexing which in turn strengthens the plastic. Additionally, the JB acts as a glue to limit the continuation of the crack. You still have to be careful as far as the thickness of the repair, but if you're careful, you can even rebuild missing pieces of plastic. I used this technique (JB with a bit of silt screen) to re-build the reclining seat covers for my car. The tangs where the screws go through were missing entirely, but I had one piece with ONE tang. I copied that one tang with mold making material and then applied it to the missing tangs. Formed my reinforcement mesh, and the part to go on the main body, mixed the JB Weld, and here I am 5 years later with it still on the car. I also repaired a corner of one of the plastic pieces and even matched the grain so you can't see it if I don't point it out to you. (The pieces have been painted to blend.) Once you've repaired the piece, it is an excellent idea to THEN use the Dynamat, Brown Bread...etc, on the back...for sound abatement and not to rein-force the panel. E

One thing to be real careful of though, you've not REPAIRED the panel, you just used a different type of duct tape, but don't be fooled, it is in fact, just DUCT TAPE. Not trying to jump on you, but once the plastic has lost that strength it has from the way it was molded, and you have a crack....in my experience in plastics (+15 years) that crack is just going to continue to grow and grow...until you mend it. The tape on the back, may prolong the need to replace it, but if there is ANY type of vibration, and you've not glued the edges to each other, they'll chafe. Chafing will result in the plastic literally sanding itself more. You need to at least put some sort of glue in that crack. It is difficult to find a glue that works, that's the main reason for this post being such a lively re-ocurring topic, as technologies change and grow, but the tape idea won't cut it. Also don't forget that the foil backed sound deadening panels require a minimum thickness to work properly. As a result, you'll need to ensure that you don't inadvertenly put some on the back of the plastic at a point that it will be actually causing stress on the rivet holes by pressing up against the steel supports. It CAN be done, and done well it is an excellent idea...but it isn't a fix all for broken / cracked plastic. Just my 2¢ E

Those are the ones that I *finally* found. Excellent work Webdawg! FYI: The first two are the disassembly process, pages one and two. The next two are the re-assembly process, again pages one and two. And, for the record, those pictures are from an article written by the Late Carl Stahlnecker, may he rest in peace, who could document articles beautifully. His articles and Dave's Gas Tank POR Renew are classics! FWIW E

If you haven't done the Cowl Drain piping that I suggest, you might be able to find all the pieces inside one of the fenders. There is little room for parts to wiggle their way out, and if you haven't removed the fenders and cleaned that area out, it might need doing anyhow. Unfortunately, the only parts I have are dedicated to projects currently in work and as such aren't spares. For the large washer, you might be able to substitute a fender washer though. I'm tryijng to find a picture of the disasembled linkage to help you, but no luck yet. Maybe someone else has it available faster. E

In brief: The 350Z is to the 240Z as the "K" cars are to the Barracuda. E

While you remember NOW, after having had a lengthy discussion as to what it might be, in a few months or even a few years, it might not be the same. I'd suggest as Jim said, tie them up neatly, apply a label to remind you down the road (it also helps when you're trying to USE the wire later) and put them away. If anyone sees them, it's because they're inside and personal with your car. But just to give you an idea as to what you might use them for: Alarm System - whether the pin for the hood, or the siren; power leads for an up-to-date stereo that requires an un-switched power supply for the radio/clock settings; relay connections for ...high power fog-lamps, or air-horn, or passing light relay. Wire is wire (within limits), and as long as you don't exceed the wire's rating/capacity and it is NOT hooked up to extreneous circuitry, it's wire. Sometimes the hardest part about adding on aftermarket accessories is the routing of the wires. 2¢ E

Actually the way you tested it IS the way to check a resistor. You put your meter on the Ohm setting (Greek Letter Omega Ω), put a lead on each end and you measure the resistance of the resistor. A Zero resistance would be an ideal piece of wire, but even straight wire will show SOME resistance (depending on the sensitivity of your meter). An infinite resistance would be a blown resistor. You could also check for continuity. If there is no tone (presuming that's how your meter confirms continuity), then you have NO continuity and therefore an open circuit or a blown resistor. With the electronic ignition, AFAIK you do NOT need the resistor. The ONLY purpose of the resistor is to reduce the voltage to the distributor from 12v (nominal) to 6v and therefore reduce the wear and tear due to pitting on the breaker points. No points, therefore no need to reduce the voltage. So, simply connect the two wires that went to each end of the resistor to each other, tape the connection to avoid a stray spark or short circuit and you're off and running. As far as pre-warning...sometimes, usually none and what you get can vary depending on how it's failing, if it isn't an instantaneous failure. Glad we solved it, now send the switch back to MSA, thank them for their willingness to receive it and especially for paying for the shipping. It isn't often that you see companies accept a mistake and do right by the customer, and when you DO see it, it makes you glad to do business with them. Enrique

Or the return leg of the coil wiring is what came off. Have you checked the wiring at the Resistor by the coil? The problem you mention is identical to what happens when the resistor is disconnected. You're actually engaging the starter, but at a point that it isn't making enough of a connection to allow the solenoid and hence the starter to kick in. Have you done any work recently on the Tach? How about the coil/ distributor / resistor wiring? When the key is in the RUN position, can you turn on the Heater Blower, the Radio, the Turn Signals? Any one of these will help ID where ithe circuitry failed and IF it is in fact, the Ignition Switch. Enrique

As Namor said, ABS is a type of Styrene plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene if memory serves). It is quite strong and is easily molded or extruded into various shapes. As far as mounting the louvers, it all depends on the mounting method used. Some use clips that slide under the hatch seal rubber and then with the use of some D'Zus fasteners (sp?) they are then screwed into the brackets. Mine do that but also are double taped onto the glass to provide a double foot for the bracket. It takes 6 fasteners for mine. Not sure on the others. The side louvers have tangs that stick out the side and you slide those into the quarter panel window seal. These can be tricky to insert, and as a result, I don't remove and replace these as often as I would like to. I have a set of aluminum ones in the back awaiting repairs and possible re-mounting onto one of the other Z's in work, but in my experience different manufacturers addressed the fit to the rear window differently. Some had pretty rigid sub-frame members keeping the louvers in shape, others relied on the louver to keep the shape, and yet others had an external frame to which the louvers mounted. As a result, I've seen all sorts of variations on the concept, which is one reason why I chose the ABS type. The other reason being that it didn't mount to the hatch metal via screws or latches or any form of metal hole. I'd be interested in finding out where you found a source for the rear window ABS louver as I have a couple of other cars in work. E

Hopefully Sal makes a note on the Nissan application list they keep. But that aside, what exactly happened to the original ignition switch. When you say failed....it shattered? Shorted out and melted? Exploded? I guess what I'm driving at, is what happened? Is there any possibility that the item may be repaired? You'd be surprised how many times people toss items that could in fact be repaired, but aren't, simply because it takes more than a bit of doing. As these cars age, there are going to be more and MORE parts that are simply going to become not only NLA, but not even non-functional examples will be available. If they can be repaired, or cross-cannibalized in order to make one good one out of 2, 3 or more, then it might be worth exploring. I know I'm not alone in trying to identify these items, and hopefully find either work-arounds, replacements, repairs or re-manuacturered pieces to satisfy these items. E

2¢ According to the Zhome production changes sheet, the car in the picture would qualify as the FIRST of the Series II body changes (http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm) as it is 3700 VIN numbers below the supposed FIRST Series II listed there (Vin HLS30 021001). Since it is in NM, that means the general climate will have been milder and more forgiving than if it were in the PAC-NW and definitely the AT-NE or the Rust Belt. If you ARE looking for a restoration project, $995 may not be a bad price for a relatively low VIN Series II. FWIW E

JB Weld with either Cheese cloth, or steal one of your wife's knee-highs and use that. The key being to use a porous enough cloth that the JBW will flow through the strand, but not so porous that you don't benefit from the cloth. T-Shirt material is almost too tight a weave, but if you stretch it out, might work if you thoroughly saturate it with the JBW. I've even replaced missing chunks out of the corners and area surrounding the rivet holes using this technique. But the big trick isn't in SANDING the back of the plastic, but rather GOUGING it. You literally want individual and deep scratches that you then pressure squeeze the JB Weld into, so that it gets down to the bottom of the scratch. I've even gone so far as to take a razor blade and cut into the plastic at opposite angles to each cut on opposite sides of the repair to ensure that the JBW will not crack off. You're not looking to cut through the plastic, you just want a deep enough scratch that the JBW will have both depth and thickness within the scratch. Fiberglass and fiberglass resin will work, but can be a bear to get it bubble free and to stick properly. Also, if you're not careful, the heat of the reaction can cause problems if you over-catalyze. I've tried heat welding the plastic as well, but by the time you've heated it enough to accept the repair material, you have it hot enough for it to lose the grain on the visible side. E¢

I dont know of any other members with the rear and the side louvers, here's pics of mine. My louvers however, aren't aluminum but ABS plastic. Big difference in the weight as well as the way they mount. Aside from a bit of difficulty sometimes in looking out the rear mirror, and the side windows, I like them. They really DO keep the car cooler, and that is the main reason I got them. Don't want to be replacing the carpet in the rear deck just because of it fading in the sun (which they do in a short while). The bit of difficulty is in getting used to them when changing from one vehicle to the next, but not anything you can't get used to. Here's a few pics: Kind of hard to see the side louvers in this shot: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8920&cat=500&ppuser=1490 Good shot of the rear louver, and you can just barely make out the side ones: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8921&cat=500&ppuser=1490 This one shows both sets well: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8924&cat=500&ppuser=1490 The aluminum ones I've seen either mount onto the glass, and then get mounted to the hatch, or are drilled and screwed onto the hatch. But those are the ones I've seen. FWIW E

Mike: I stand corrected. I had not noticed the seller in the first auction and the second one were not the same. However, upon closer look, I agree with you completely....it definitely looks shal we say...phishy? Will, makes a couple very valid points, 3¢ is not a lot to invest if you're having doubts, and it may debunk a bad seller. I know the current bidder is one of our own, I'll send him a PM to check this thread out. It might save him some hazzles. I'll go munch on my crow pie! E

Mike: Could it be as simple as "I bought a bunch of these when I saw the price was starting to skyrocket and I'm now cashing in my stash!" ? While everyone knows that people need to make a profit to stay in business, why is it that when someone has the foresight to plan well enough and far enough ahead that they "make a killing" that everyone starts accusing them of ripping people off? Besides the opening bid is LESS than $35 dollars....how can you call that a rip-off? Sorry, but re-using text and even pics from other auctions is nothing short than well executed file manipulation....Copy and Paste....nothing devious there. Or are you saying that each auction should also sell the picture and text used in the auction....for what purpose? 2¢ E

Since I inadvertently started this.... Miles makes a good point, and it would definitely remind people that the new post they are reading is being added to an old post. Max's point about a thread not fully answering a question / problem is going to be a problem. The main problem now is that there have been so many threads started on the same subject(s) that it takes hours to sift through them all. Add to that that some new folks will post the same question in two and three different forums thinking that each has it's own group of devoted readers and ignoring the fact that ALL new posts are shown on the Main Page at the bottom. What happens then is that they'll get some folks answering one, not the other, and other folks reversing that. So now you have two and more posts all with incomplete answers. Here is a link to a search for "Gasoline Fumes"....you get 10 hits. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=338796 In this post: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16215 The latest addition to " Gasoline Fumes In The Car!?" you have a relatively new member saying...I've looked and I still have the problem. The next few posts basically re-iterate the littany of fixes until he gets asked if he realized he was bringing up an old post. All salient points to this new thread. While you may think that the question "Did you notice this was an old post?" is rude and out of place, if you look at the search I posted, you'll see that this post is not the only one to deal with gasoline fumes. Pull up the last one "Getting high off gas fumes.." and you'll see that even then it was an old repeated post (June 2002). But it belies the new poster's actions. If he in fact HAD tried the various suggestions, it's questionable that he would still have the problem. (Off topic: That last post also shows why Mike wants to remove "image leeching", there is a post with some excellent documentation, that is now useless, because the original host site for the pictures is no longer there, or no longer allowing re-direct.) That's where you run into the apathy that some people have. It boils down to this..."That sounds complicated, I don't want to do that." or "I don't think that's right, so I'll ignore it." When in fact, they came here looking for answers, but they didn't like the answers they were given, so they ask again hoping someone will say...Abra ca Zaam....it's now fixed. Except now they've drudged up an old post and complained that it didn't answer their question. Heck, if anyone can come up with a FAST way of removing the plastic panels in the back of the car WITHOUT breaking them or losing the rivets/pins...I'm ready to listen. But therein lies the problem, some of the fixes ARE NOT EASY! (Unless you use one of my favorites which is to simply find a mechanic to do it for you.) But you should at least give the rest of us the courtesy to read through all the posts that come up before you decide you've discovered a new gasoline fume problem, and bring up an old post. Hope this helps clarify, MY opinion, as that is all it is. E

Actually, you are probably better informed than the majority of folks who "practice" Halloween. For most people it's an opportunity to put on a costume, act crazy and in a manner that can be excused with..."It's for Halloween!" If you think of Carnaval in Brazil, you'll get a basic idea of what people get away with. Now, as far as the kids, the basic premise (as I understand it, and everyone has their understanding) is that it is All Hallow's Eve when you elaborate on the theme of the spirit world being so close to the natural world that they tend to overlap, hence the ghosts, witches, half-dead..etc etc. The kids used to get dressed in spooky costumes, until the generic theme of bed sheet with a couple of holes for a ghost got to be too cliché, so they started expanding. In the 60's I recall seeing Superman Capes, Batman masks, Amazing Woman, and GI Joe and Barbie etc start to become popular and before long the costumes weren't so "scary". I recall doing a hobo and my sister doing a fairy princess one year, so you can imagine how it had changed. Nowdays, you'll see kids "disguised" as just about every comic book hero and cartoon figure on TV and the movies. Sometimes the costumes are very nicely done, some are realistic but oftentimes it's a store bought mask and piece of cloth, which I think denigrates the whole wearing of a costume. I still recall one of my neighbors giving extra candy to those that had gone to extra lengths to individualize their costume. Nowdays, some of the cutest costumes are when people dress up their toddlers (yes, LITTLE kids) and the results can be not only hilarious but downright cute. The kids basically walk up to the door, knock and announce "Trick or Treat!" when you open the door. However, with the theme devolving down it's become more of an opportunity to get free candy, and modern kids have not been exposed to the true Tricks that used to get played on us in the 60's....which sometimes was the only reason to go up to someone's house. I recall seeing the kids eagerly awaiting the next kid to be initiated to the neighbor's scarecrow that would come to life when you knocked on the door and would scare you to the street.....:eek: and then rushing off to find their friends in order to have them get scared out of their wits. E

I agree with you, and this is a subject that has been discussed before as well, the problem is that there are two (mainly) schools of thought on that. Some would have you post a completely new thread rather than post to an old thread, and others would have you post to the old thread to keep all the related questions / answers / variations of topic / related variations within the same thread(s). The common agreement however, is that EVERYONE (except for those that don't wish to be included) hates the person who drags up an old old post simply to post that they also had the same problem and agreed that the solution given was the one to use as that is what they did. That is, they added absolutely NOTHING to the thread, and essentially said "Me too!" this is the real waste of time for everyone. My opinion is that if in searching you find a post that answers your question / search, but you had different symptoms, or fix(es) then definitely add to the post as what you are positng ADDS to the post. However, DO read the post thoroughly and completely, there have been times when new members have begun to offer their 2 cents worth on how to trouble shoot a problem that, if they'd read to the end of the thread, they would have realized that that problem had already been solved. Also remember that you are posting to an old thread, so that posting a question to the ORIGINAL poster, may be useless. I think that adding to an old thread that is informative with NEW information ADDS to the value of the thread and the archives. It not only helps compact the archives, (instead of 30+ posts on the same subject, you only have a half dozen or so) it also allows future new people the opportunity to quickly review a LOT of knowledge without having to read the same replies over and over again. However, just because you're lazy and don't want to sift through the replies, or to do the basic search, well in my opinion, you should NOT start a new thread. That's what earns MY telling them...go search the archives. But that's just my 2¢ E P.S. Sorry to hijack....

Mike you caught me! I was in the middle of editing when you replied. E

Carl: Excellent info on the Tie Down hooks, and that makes a ton of sense. However, which is the Tow Hook you refer to? I'm attaching a photo from one of the threads mentioned above that shows all 4. E

Most of us would agree that the biggest value here is the information we share. That it is done freely and in-depth is what makes it even more valuable to people seeking answers. If all you want to know is what time it is, you can check various other sources, if you want to know about the theory behind time measurement, there are yet other sources, if you want to know how to repair the clock, you go to the folks that have disassembled, repaired and re-built their clock several times.....that's this site here....except it's the Z we've re-built, and repaired. There are other sites, and using the clock analogy, that know how to change the insides to run off a battery, others that have swapped the clock hands to digital numbers, etc, etc. The key here however, is that here we devoted to repairing the Z to it's original (mostly) condition. The folks at HybridZ enjoy doing the V8 and V6 swaps, and are most knowledgeable about that. That is THEIR value to the Z community. As far as being told that something has been discussed before, while we do it in a reply, other sites simply delete the post and tell the person who posted it to search the archives. While it may seem to be a brush-off, it actually isn't. The person who posts a question that has been posted, discussed, dissected, argued over, and re-hashed for the 5th time....obviously doesn't know enough about the subject they're asking about. They need to expend a little bit of time and energy to at least get themselves up to speed. Would you let someone who just learned how to drive...in an automatic car, jump into your manual Z to drive it in rush-hour traffic? The analogy applies, because each and every point in the previous discussions must now be presented to them in order to get them to understand the general consensus the group has arrived at....by discussion over a period of time. If the person still has doubts, or questions, I personally feel that they should then post it to the thread that most applies to the subject they're questioning....even if it's an old post. That is why the software pops it back up to the top of the "Active Posts" list. So that the rest of us can then read the post and reply. Those "regurgitated" posts can now be re-read, re-examined and expanded upon. Or even knocked out and debunked if they're grossly inaccurate. The additions to the old posts, especially when they add to the information within them is what makes the search feature that much more powerful and the archives as well. There are several "key issues" that crop up time and time again...gas fumes in the car, and rust. How many times would a new discussion really explore new avenues of thought? That's why the poster gets told to search the archives. You don't discuss geometry with someone who thinks it would be easier to round of Pi to 3.0 do you? As far as the Reputation points. There are many here who present, explain, and illustrate their point well. Personally, I try to explain in such a manner that you, being miles away from me, can replicate what I've done. If I fail to do so, it is because I didn't communicate it well. I know others also post with that intent. It is those members, that until now, have been mixed in with those people that have numerous posts....that don't really contribute to the general pool of knowledge. Bulk post numbers mean nothing, especially when most people groan at the thought of yet another post by that person. Anyone remember Smoking Eddie or whatever his name was? The Reputation points, if used properly, help new members distinguish between those who are just posting to increase their post count, and those that the rest of the members feel actively contribute and that their contributions are worthy of the group's common goal...working on their Z. Sadly, if misused, the Reputation points boil down to being just a popularity poll. The comments are feedback, they tell you when you didn't do well, or when you did. They are necessarily anonymous because it allows both the responder and the receiver to save a little bit of face. And BD280Z, don't worry. As acerbic as I can be, I'm sure to top the Top 50 Worst in no time at all. 2¢ E

Priceless!

Actually Jim, you would be surprised at how many parts you actually CAN get from the dealers. Here in the U.S. there's several guys making some serious $ re-selling parts on e-bay that they bought from the dealer....and they are parts that "everybody knows" are not available at the dealer. That's why they're making a killing on them. I'm not sure if the club's microfiche cd covers the zx, (someone else please answer that one), but if it does, that is the sure way of getting helped at the dealers....give them a part number. That way they can actually look the part up and maybe even find it. If the dealer's part departments down under are anything like the U.S. one's then they'll only look up current and/or not too old models....like within the last 5 years. Otherwise you'll get the famous lazy clerk's answer...If it's not on the shelf, then we're out! (and this is especially infuriating when you see them standing next to a box of stock that needs to be put out). E