EScanlon

Although it's obvious, it can get overlooked... have you checked your fuses? Don't just look at them, those glass fuses have been known to be bad even though they appear good. Remove them and do a continuity check on them. While you're at it, check to make sure you have 12v across their terminals when the headlights are on. FWIW E

Tomo, sorry but it sounds like you have a major case of Sour Grape-itis. The judges at any car show don't have the time to have each car individually coddled by their owner showing them how you push on that button and smack the dash right in that spot and twist this knob and then VOILA the glove box light comes on. If the light did not come on, it may have been a sticky plunger switch, or an excess amount of room light making it hard to discern that it WAS on. In either case, it is up to you to try to minimize those possibilities, and yes, suffer the consequences if they do arise. At many show by virtue of registering your car, you are asking for it to be judged. Then by leaving items open / unlocked you are allowing the judge to compare your car against the others in your class. Sometimes, with known problem items, it is necessary to delve deeper in order to discern a winner. Judging is straight forward, is the door open? Then the interior is open to be judged, with the possible accrual of any points to be earned from a good interior. Conversely if the door is not open, the possible deduction of points for that. The process rewards the owner who makes the interior judgeable over the individual who locks his car so the interior will NOT be judged. Additionally, that owner can lose some points for non-op and wrong items in the interior. Your 5 ft rule, would degrade the role of knowledgeable judges to the equal of any show spectator. At that point, why not just have it judged by every other person walking by? 2¢ E

I looked for the corrosion you mention and all I can detect is the off-color discoloration of the gasket film adhesive. I have a couple sets of these and the gasket has a shiny adhesive side which when the protective film is removed gets attached to the metal. Once you peel off the film protecting the adhesive, the off-color yellow/brown film is gone. The original rubber seals are visible mounted on the metal protecting the Lexan. Additionally, the seals do not show any holes being poked through in the mounting holes. It is possible that they just pushed the screw through, but then it would have distorted the seal, and the shiny film wouldn't be straight. Not showing the mounting hardware, conceded, but it may be a simple matter of not including it in the pictures as opposed to assuming he does not have it. Ask the seller the question to verify. As far as the Seller saying they "look new"... where? Are you sure you're not reading into it? Here is his description and the answer to one question: "Chrome Trimmed, 4 point surface flush mount Datsun Z Headlight Covers Difficult to find, very few have the chrome, most are the plexi with gasket. These mount over the headlight bucket, not in it. 4 screws, ready to go. Avoid silicone, it only traps moisture and will fog up! My project is gone, so these are going too! Thanks for looking!" Question: "Q: Hi Any cracks or damage to plastic lense or metal trim ring?? Thanks A: Absolutely no damage. They don't appear to have ever been installed." Not having the original box is reason for his listing it as New-Other and not New. The "See Details" is e-Bay's footnote to read the details. This are e-Bay's details of "New-Other": "New other (see details): A new, unused item with absolutely no signs of wear. The item may be missing the original packaging, or in the original packaging but not sealed. The item may be a factory second, or a new, unused item with defects. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections." Otherwise, I don't see any reason to doubt this seller. E

It's PERFECT!!! And it has mud guards!

How are you ascertaining that they're used? E

If you have one of the more modern radios (than the OEM) AND a fully automatic antenna you could just wire the antenna to go up when the radio comes on. Typically it's a blue wire coming out of the radio that connects to the antenna to actuate it. Wiring colors and specifics will vary, but the combination of the two would allow you to do without the rocker switch. If on the other hand, you have the old semi-automatic antenna and a newer radio, then you have no choice but to use a rocker switch. The semi-automatic (OEM Style) antenna requires you to hold the switch in the direction of travel for as high/low as you want to set the antenna. Conversely, if you have a NEW style fully automatic antenna and you want to use it with the OEM radio without the power sense wire of the newer radios, you CAN wire it to emulate the OEM Semi-Automatic operation using the stock wiring. FWIW E

It depends.... but then you knew that. What's the condition of the paint? Are there any chips, cracks, crazing or other imperfections that need to be sanded out? Are you talking 3 complete paint jobs (primer, color, clear each) or Original, Re-color, and Re-coat with no primer or sealer in between? The OLD rule of thumb was that if the previous paint job was generally undamaged, you scuffed/sanded it to accept either a sealer/primer (if changing color or type of paint) and then your color. If it was questionable, you D/A'ed it to smooth out the whole car (and if any chips or cracks) and then sealer/primer and color etc. If you are talking 3 complete paint jobs (primer,color,clear x 3) AND there aren't any problems visible, then I would suggest you at least wet-sand the car completely smooth before you apply more paint, but be very very picky over the condition of the existing paint. FWIW E

The AM only radio had the Rocker Style Toggle switch to the right of the Tuning Knob, positioned so that it points up and down. The AM-FM radio had a Slide Style Toggle switch ABOVE the Tuning Knob, aligned so that it slides from side to side. The correct face plate for the radio will make it obvious/ E

The shaft of the wiper pivot has a circle ring holding it in place in the pivot body. Remove the rubber boot (on the outside) and just above the pivot body you should see a ring, gently push a flat blade screwdriver between the ring and the pivot body and work your way around the shaft until the ring moves out of the depression in the shaft. Then just remove the ring, and push the shaft out of the body. Inside the body shaft, look closely and you should see a slightly wider bore hole, that's where a "pocket" of grease should be to keep things moving smoothly. By now the original grease in yours is probably rock hard. You may have to use a bent nail or some such to pry that grease out. Grease and lube well and the wipers will show dramatic improvement. The other connections on the wiper pivot arms are ball type and function fine with a simple oiling. FWIW E

What about brazing it? Or even brazing a patch over the crack... E

After you've done your body work, and are FIRST starting to cover the bare metal, use an ETCHING primer. Many Epoxy Primers ARE an etching style primer, but not all. Conversely regular primer (the really old school red oxide lacquer... probably not available now), worked best if you at least did a Metal Wash on the bare metal. That could be from Ospho, POR 15's Metal Ready, or PPG's Metal Prep, but the key thing is that they all leave the metal with some "tooth", which allows the primer to adhere better. Most newer style primers use Reducer and not Lacquer Thinner. As such, you will undoubtedly need to etch the metal. Check the Epoxy you choose to make sure it etches and you should be fine. A note for your future steps: You mention only sanding the rest of the body where you don't need to do repairs, this is ok, but you may want to use a SEALER between the old paint and any new topcoats. Some of the newer paint formulations are extremely picky over what they are sprayed over and can react unfavorably with older paints. This is especially true if you're dealing with any paint that may have been "waxed" with any of the "Wax Once and Never Again" poly coatings being promoted as permanent. The use of a Sealer will give you a uniform color base over which you can spray a nice uniform color coat and not have to worry about any shadows / uneven color. FWIW E

Yes. It could also be that it has loosened, but is still there. It's tricky to get your hand back there, and even trickier to try to get a screwdriver on to it to tighten it, but it isn't impossible. Otherwise, you have to remove the speedometer from the dash. E

Feel free to report any post where you feel you are being insulted. Realize that we may not agree. Do remember that it is impossible for us to moderate the thread or forum to your specific likes as it seems that you have been the primary instigator in some of these exchanges. In some cases it is apparent that you choose to see an "insult" when someone disagrees with you. That is your choice to make and deal with accordingly, but understand that we're not prepared to shield you from your decisions. You brought up the concept of a "Turdymobile", which has offended several members. Any responses to that concept that you find objectionable are of your own decision making, you opened the door to them by the concept you proposed. That you choose to mistreat your vehicle is again, your choice. Don't expect others to agree with your choices. Your concept of fairness/justness is not what we moderate by. If you insult, deride, and otherwise annoy the other members, as you have been doing, then expect to have it handed back. If you do not like what you are receiving, then stop shelling it out to others. We won't allow them to insult you directly, nor allow you to do it to them either. You should also be aware that the "inuendo" type of insult is pretty much recognizable as an insult and as such will be dealt with as a direct insult. You have insisted on pushing your enthrallment with the uniqueness of your vehicle. Allow others to choose to disagree. From the posts here and in other threads it has annoyed many members. The replies on this thread speak volumes, and it isn't the majority that seems to be in error. Your vehicle is special to you, accept that others may not be enthralled and may even be appalled at what you have. That is their right. You're very upfront with pointing out what you feel "destroys" the "sexy lines" of the Z, to the point of insulting others and then demanding that they NOT insult you. Your car is modified, yet you are extremely critical of other people's modifications, to the tune of repeating it ad nauseum. This site is primarily for the Classic Z that has not been as modified as yours is. While we can and do share the love of Z's with those that have changed / modified / modernized their Z as yours is, you won't find the kind of acceptance that you demand, and especially when you demand, cajole and otherwise annoy everyone here. Hybrid-Z may be a better forum for you. There you will find others that have also done a V8 transplant and love to discuss it. You should be aware though, that they are even more strict about what they do and don't allow to be posted. It may be that you have already been there and that is why you are here. If you feel that you can no longer participate in this thread or forum without continuing to insult, denigrate, deride and otherwise annoy the other members, then please desist from reading and contributing anything further to it. If on the other hand you choose to continue to participate; if necessary-- agree to disagree, avoid argumentative posts and please abide by the forum rules. E Scanlon Moderator

Bryan; Did you ever get a WRITTEN agreement with the shop doing the work, specifying what they would/would not do? While a verbal agreement is more difficult to enforce, some terms are defineable such that a "paint job" is understood to mean ALL of the exterior of a vehicle and not just what's visible from a bird's eye view. Aside from that, it sounds as though the paint guy was rushing your job and got careless. Regardless of the expense (and it's on him) he needs to make the job right... even if it means sanding to Primer/Sealer and re-shooting color and clear. Otherwise, take it to a different shop, pay to have it done properly and then sue the first shop for the cost of rectifying their mistake. Sorry to hear of the problems. E

Sorry it's kind of late, but come to Blue Lake tomorrow 8-12-12 for the Blue Lake Datsun/Nissan meet. E

Folks: Let's keep it civil. While a certain amount of vitriolic riposting is common in these discussions let's keep away from direct insults and attacks. References to ignore lists are requests to have the post deleted as it's equivalent to telling the individual that they're not allowed to interject or participate. Requests to "prove" something or quoting disdain or arrogance by other members also constitutes the beginnings of a flame war. Flame wars are not allowed. For whatever it's worth, this discussion has been very refreshing and interesting... at worst, people can agree to disagree. FWIW E

An Agreed Value insurance policy is only a contract between you and the insurance company whereby the insurance company will generally cover you for the amount you request without further documentation as long as you continue to pay the premiums they quote. You could insure a turd for a million dollars and if the insurance company determines the risk involved as being acceptable, they'll issue the policy, you pay the premiums and VOILA you have a "million dollar turd". http://www.hagerty.com/classic-car-articles-resources/Ask-Hagerty-Questions/Ask-Hagerty/Insuring/QA/Whats-the-difference-between-Agreed-Value-and-Stated-Value-coverage FYI E

I've used the Roloc's myself, but one word of caution, they CAN damage aluminum. They are abrasive, and while it does take a bit of doing to do a lot of damage, on aluminum sometimes a bit is too much. (Door/Sill Aluminum kick plates is where I used the white.) But if you're careful, they are REALLY fast. They also use the same adapter for the Scotchpad roloc discs. E

"Switched" refers to it being turned on / off by the ignition switch, whether directly or by a relay is secondary. (Conversely, "non-switched" means CONTINUOUS power, i.e. it's ON as long as the battery is connected to the car's harness.) Typically, it's the current load to be controlled that will determine if it should be run through a relay circuit or if it can be run through the ignition switch. Higher CURRENT circuits are best through a relay. (So are High Voltage circuits, but we're talking about a 12v Car.) The 240 Z's headlight circuit is a good example of an item that is NOT on a "switched" circuit (controlled by the ignition switch) that is safer and better through a Relay circuit instead of part of the car's wiring. Other examples of Non-Switched are Hazard Lights and Brake Lights, the Cigar Lighter and the Dome lamp. The Starter is another good example, but now it is an item that IS "switched" AND on a relay, although it's called a starter solenoid. Here you have the rest of the car's circuits which, without the ignition switch being toggled to the ON position, would not be functional; i.e. the radio, turn-signals, gauges, and the distributor/coil etc. Now, you can check to see if it's a switched source simply by putting a light on it and seeing if you have to have the key on or not for the light to turn on. Key OFF and NO light / Key ON and YES light = Switched Key OFF and YES light / Key ON and YES light. = Non-Switched. If your ignition switch is starting to go bad, and you now have intermittent electrical contact at it's connections, don't hesitate to replace it. An intermittent electrical source can quickly fry any component attached to it, regardless of whether it's on a direct or relay circuit. Simplistically, not so much because of a voltage drop, but due to the changes in the current supplied. You're literally turning it on and off repeatedly. I gave you more of an explanation so you can determine by what you are connecting, whether you should use relays or not. (and also future readers of this post) HTH E

Doesn't the valve cover on a 240 have a groove for an o-ring? E

That second roller was an OPTION at the factory, but it actually is very helpful when the window is halfway up. The majority of vehicles were never fitted with the second roller, but those who have installed it report less window rattle when the window is just open to full open. As far as your window problem, your window sash weatherstripping may be part of the problem. From the picture you post, it looks as though it's shrunken to the point where it isn't keeping the window glass in it's groove. The picture shows it already OUT of the groove. The other possibility is that you need to raise the front edge of the glass just a tad so that the rear edge of the pane will rest within the rear groove. FWIW E

Part of that "plumping up" is the proper use of the wires and seam tubes to pull down through the foam and accent the seam indent. Too much foam can actually be detrimental to the cushioning effect of the seat and in turn stress the cover into premature failure from stretching the material. FWIW E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46732 This one? With all the quirky things going on, it probably fell between other posts .... E

If you give the compressor time to catch up, you should be OK running a sandblaster. Granted, you won't be running it for LONG periods of time, but you can get it done. One suggestion, if the drain valve for the tank is at the bottom of it, you may want to raise it a few inches to make it easier to reach in and drain it. Alternatively, there are "auto" drain valves you could install, but without clearance you won't be able to install it easily. FWIW E

Actually, you're spot on (except for the knobs). That is when you're comparing car stereo units. In fact, I don't know of a repair shop that wouldn't tell you that the repairs... ANY amount, would be more than the radio's worth. The thing is, that when you're restoring a vehicle to factory new OEM condition, you really don't have much choice. Right now you can't give an engine's air pump away... you'd be laughed at. But to a true blue restoration, i.e. one with few if any modifications, that air pump is critical, without it you have an engine modification. Granted many judging bodies have allowances due to many of these items being so hard to source. E