240Z-Fan

Dave (Zs-ondabrain), MANY thanks for offering to send me one of your parts. That is greatly appreciated. This is what I ended up doing: I decided to shave some time (and improve my odds of success) and dropped off the housing at the machine shop. I will pick it up tomorrow. $20 (I'll see how it turned out). This, along with a new gasket and bolt should allow me to get the car going soon. As Arne suggested, I also called courtesy Nissan and placed an order for new parts: a new housing along with all new bolts, gasket, and temperature sending unit. That should give me a better result, provided that the parts are actually available. Arne, I couldn't figure out which lock nut you were referring to. If it is in the fiche (CD) I couldn’t see it. I hope I won't regret not having it. I don't have the housing with me for reference, is it on the sending unit? Everyone, Thanks for all the input. Yes, I could have tried to drill it and/or heat it. I just need to get this done quick! Many thanks, Al

Thanks Beandip, I wish I could stick with what I have. The fan pulley is wide. The alternator pulley is narrow. Unfortunately, the narrow belt is contacting the fan pulley bottom more than the sides. The wide belt would not ride well in the narrow pulley. At this point, my plan is to swap in the wide pulley from the original alternator and and get the wider belt. Al

I was concerned the AL wouldn't like the heat... The idea was to heat the AL just enough to break the bonds, then back out the bolt with the EZ out. Yes, I don't think I have ever removed a bolt succesfully with an EZ-out. They just tend to add to the challenge when they snap off in the bolt then can't be drilled out at all...hence the heat. Okay. I'll try drilling it out:nervous: Al

Thanks DeesZ, I installed the belt I was sold (7335) and it looks right on the alternator, but it sits too deep on the fan pulley. Today I looked at the original alternator I pulled from the car last year. It has a wide pulley. It looks like I'll be going back in to swap alternator pulleys (yuck) and buy the wider belt My guess is Nissan changed to the wider belts for 73 (series IV?) Many thanks! Al

Catching up on the Z-car to-do list I decided I better replace the 160 deg thermostat with the 180 I bought from Nissan. The rear bolt for the water neck loosened up fine but the front one was tight. I carefully turned it hoping, wishing it was just a little bit corroded and that everything would be alright. No. The bolt snapped off about 1.5 threads above the housing. I was able to remove the housing from the head. Now I need to know if I should heat the housing with a torch and try to use an EZ out. Or should I just punt and drop it off at the machine shop. What do the experts say? Thanks guys, Al

I just bought a fan/alt V-Belt for my 73. The one they gave me is narrower than the one that came out. Maybe too narrow to drive the pulley properly I was given a 7335 (25/64" wide), I think a 9335 (1/2" wide) was what was in there and what might fit best. I called another car parts place and they also said a 7335 is specified. Anyone know what really belongs there? Many thanks! Al

Juan, The Z is really looking good. I love seeing car projects move forward. Nice job! I look forward to seeing it on the road! Al

To my eyes, it looks like oil is getting into the coolant suggesting a blown head gaskett. Any chance you have been losing coolant or had other issues? What symptoms have you been having? Al

LCD size: I have a 350D and am seriously considering the 400D just because of the larger LCD. Even though I can zoom in to check the pic, I would rather have a bigger screen to check the shot and waste less time checking shots. Bigger is better in this case. Lens: I bought the 17-85 with IS. I really like the lens and find it quite usable. It overlaps nicely with my long lens, 70(?)-300. My brother in-law has the 20D and got the 18-55. It is an okay lens but the zoom range is limiting. He ended up getting a (non-Canon) lens that is ~17-200 (no IS) and is rather happy with it. One disadvantage to the 17-85 is that the lens casts a shadow on very close-up shots when using the built-in flash. (Something I almost never do) Frame speed: I think the 20D and 30D are 5fps. My 350D is 2.8fps. My brother in-laws 20D *is* noticeably quicker. But, I rarely shoot continuously. A moot point if you are choosing btwn a 20d and 30d. Final thoughts: I third the DPReview.com recommendation. This is an excellent resource. I would consider the 400D (aka Digital Rebel XTI) for the following reasons: - lower cost, $685 vs $1121 (Body only at BHphoto.com) - lighter weight - smaller package. (B in-law gets tired of 20D bulk, may get a 400D next) Get IS for your long lens. Get the 580EX flash, though the 430EX is very nice. Shop at Bhphoto.com. I really like these guys. Al

I am 29... in hex. I'll be 2A in September. Al

My 78Z was an automatic:( . It had a spacer on the back of the crankshaft. I still have it somewhere. Al 73 Datsun 240Z 4-speed manual 94 Mazda Miata 5-speed manual 92 Mazda Miata 5-speed manual 94 GMC Sonoma 5-speed manual 07 Kia Spectra5 5-speed manual 05 Nissan Altima 5-speed slushbox (the wifes car)

I can see having my 47k mile Z in this class. Original (and shiny) paint, original interior, uncracked dash, original engine, heck the hood has never been removed...but, being a 73, it lost the flap top carbs back in the early eighties, so now it doesn't look 100% stock and it has a few light dings. It was very well taken care of but it is not a 300 point car and I intend to drive it ever now and then. In fact, I have *considered* swapping the engine for a built L28. Don't know if I can bring myself to do this as I like the car being so original. Anyway, an unrestored stock class sounds great to me. More info on this class would be great! Al

Kenny, I appreciate all the suggestions too. My 73 with rod top SU's is harder to start than Z's I have previously owned. The choke definitely works but the car is still very cold blooded. Your comments have me thinking I can get the car to start much better than it does. (Granted, I only drive it a few times a year.) One more suggestion to improve starting: A reduction gear starter from a 280ZX will spin the engine quicker than the original starter and should (help) start the car noticeably quicker. My new belated New Years resolution is to improve the Z's cold start-ability. Thanks! Al

Another possibility is to use a power washer. I would start at a spot where the paint is peeling off and spray kind of close. The water will get under the 'new' paint and start peeling it off. The gas powered ones you can buy or rent generate 1800-4000 PSI. They usually have various nozzles to give wider or narrower spray patterns, the narrower the pattern the more intense the jet. The ones at a car wash are relatively low pressure (maybe 500 psi) but it may be worth a try. I watched a high power washer take off the clear coat on my wife's Saturn when the father-in-law got a bit too close. There may be good reasons not to do this, but it is an option. Al

I think there are two functions to the strut bar that I can see: 1) maintain the relationship between the left and right side suspension and therefore avoid bump-steer-like effects due to eaach side flexing independantly (note: this is not the classical bump steer we normally refer to but the effect is the same) 2) reduce the positve camber on the outside wheel that would be induced during hard cornering. Accomplished by transfering the load to the inside (less loaded) strut tower In the case of '1', it doesn't really matter if the bar is preloaded one way or the other In the case of '2', preloading it in tension would be more effective at having the inside torsional stiffness help the outside...preloading it in compression would help the outside by virtue of the outside already be in the loaded position during transients. Not being a terribly consistent driver, I doubt I could ever tell the difference. I would aim for whatever setting gives me the best hood to fender gap Al

Gary, I am very curious about the spindle pin puller. Do you have any photos or links to photos that you can share? Thanks! Al

My wife and I spent two weeks in NZ on vacation and loved it. We drove 3300Km combined on the North and South Island. Another two weeks would have been wonderful. I have also kicked around the idea of selling everything but the Z and moving to NZ. I have traveled a fair amount and this was the first time I felt I could live in another country quite happily. Yes, there would be things that would take some time to get used to. But, I am sure it would work out. As a tourist the country is great. (The roads are really great for sports cars.) But, I am not sure what the employment and housing situation would be like compared to our current situation in the US. The South Island is a great place to visit but I believe the majority of professional job opportunities would be on the North Island closer to Auckland. My vote is to do some serious research then take at least two weeks to visit the country and explore the options. If you can arrive with a specific set of questions to ask regarding a relocation, you may go home with the answer. Best of luck to you! Al

What's your vector Victor? The bumper I got is undrilled. In fact it doesn't have any holes in it for over riders or rub strips. It does have the interface necessary to bolt it to the stays, and it has the license plate mount, but it doesn't come with any other brackets. According to the microfiche, the bumper is for the 69-72 (Series 1-Series 3) body. If I'm not mistaken, I will need to change to the early stays if I want to mount this bumper on my 73. Comments? Al BTW, I wish I could edit some of the typo's in my older posts. They are bugging me. Am I missing something?

I was aiming my answer to Ramses question...:classic: Al

Ramses, No brackets; Just the bumper. I don't actually need the bumper right now. I got because I could. (I may need it later.) Al

I just bought THE last 240Z front bumper in the US from Nissan. Thanks to a suggestion from Carl Beck (in another post), I decided to see what bumpers may be available and get them while I could. The rear bumpers are NLA, but Courtesy Nissan was showing the front bumper as being available, so I ordered it online. The next day the folks at Courtesy Nissan called to let me know the computers were showing exactly one left, and they weren't 100% sure it was actually available. Once they were able to confirm it they called again and let me know it was on it's way. The whole time I was worried that the bumper would get bent, scuffed... whatever, on it's way. (I learned to not get my hopes up when it comes to big heavy things getting shipped via UPS and the likes. Never mind that many people have no idea how to package things so they don't get damaged) KUDO's to the guys at Courtesy Nissan!!! They packed that bumper in a BIG box and put in a lot of effort in the packing, padding, reinforcing, to making sure it arrived unscathed. Once I arrived home and saw the big box on my porch I started to fell much more optimistic. That bumper is fantactic! I am really thrilled to have it. Based on this and some prior transactions, I must say I am really pleased with the customer service at the Courtesy Nissan parts department. I hope it never changes. Al BTW, a huge thanks to Carl Beck for the fine suggestion.

Awesome guys. Thanks! Al

Mike, You got me curious. Did you attach it to existing mounting holes or did you have to make new holes? Thanks, Al

Hi All, I bought a perfect NOS console for my 73 Z. I am replacing the original console because the mounting studs for the choke lever had broken off. The previous owner had then drilled through and used bolts. It didn't look good. Not wanting to repeat this failure mode I would like to hear what others recommend for mounting the choke lever in a way that won't be as likely to break. Also, what should I use to lubricate the choke cable? Thanks! Al 73 240Z 47k miles. 2nd owner!