Everything posted by thehelix112
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1973 240Z Turbo L28 - Melbourne Australia
Mike, Will get the VIN when I go up this weekend to tune it and post it here. WA ZCAR? Dave
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1973 240Z Turbo L28 - Melbourne Australia
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1973 240Z Turbo L28 - Melbourne Australia
Hey guys, I just joined and thought I'd add my car to the member's ride bit, funny that, I'm a member, I have a ride, wow. I have a navy blue 240Z that I purchased from a friend of a friend. Originally brought with blown head-gasket I drove it with the stock L24 and flat-top SUs ( ) until the SUs decided to develop a flatspot from between 1% and 80% throttle. Holding the throttle anywhere inbetween those two resulted in massive overfueling, a black plume of smoke three lanes wide on the freeway, half a rear muffler and a subsequent police detective motivated pull-over. After several trips to Ballarat going 100->110, clutch, roll, repeat, I sourced a supercharged L28 replacement. After some clutch dramas during the install I drove the car like this for 6 months or so while I gathered together parts for a turbo conversion. Then 6 months ago (ok so it might be more than 6 months), after breaking the gear selector linkage on the 280z 5-speed in there I took the car off the road to do the conversion. Details: Car: Model: 240Z Year: 1973 Colour: BMW Navy Blue (crows feeted to hell) Front bar: Not standard (?) Engine: L28: Block F54, Head P90 Compression: 7.4:1 Cam: Crow #58643 Intake: 212 deg 0.075" dur, 0.480" lift, Exhaust: 210 deg 0.075" dur, 0.495" lift Pistons: Standard Rods: Standard Crank: Standard Displacement: 2753cc (Standard). Oil cooling: Earls thermostat to 235x147x50mm Serck cooler. Balancer: Custom Chris Wood built using BMW Inline 6 balancer. Driveline: *cough* Gearbox: FS5C71A *cough* Clutch: 5-puck ceramic with 1100kg pressure plate Diff: Standard R180 *cough* Driveshafts: Standard *cough* Tailshaft: Custom using oversided hardy spicer joints. Fuel System: Tank: Standard Lift pump: Carter 110gph Surge: CM510 alloy around 1-2 litres EFI pump: Bosch 044 Fuel feed line: dash-8 (1/2" ID) line Fuel rail: custom Injectors: 460cc N/A S5 RX7 Regulator: Bosch adjustable rising rate Control/Ignition: Type: EFI - fully sequential injection Computer: Autronic SMC v 1.91 Distributor: Custom hall-effect Leads: Sorcher 8mm induction Coil: Bosch 716HEC transformer type Ignition Module: Bosch Induction: Manifold: Standard 280zx EFI Throttle body: Ford XF Falcon 65mm Piping: 2.5" stainless Intercooler: ARE 520x300x90 bar and plate Turbocharger: 620hp Garrett GT35R (0.82 turbine housing) Exhaust: Manifold: Custom Ian Rowlerson: stainless, tigged, tuned length, split pulse collector, external wastegate flange External wastegate: Sub-zero 55mm Exhaust: 3" mandrel bent mild dumper to 2.5" press bent street system and 3" side exit race system. 2.5" screamer off wastegate Suspension and Wheels: Springs: Lowered Kings progressive all round Shocks: Gabriel POS, don't ask my why. Sway bars: Whiteline adjustables all round Wheels: 14x6 dealer option `jelly beans'. Tyres: 195/75R14 Pirelli P400s Performance: Power: unknown as yet 0-100kph: unknown as yet Quarter Mile: 12.83 @ 115MPH Fairly obviously the driveline will need some serious work in the very near future. I have a 4.4:1 R200 sitting there waiting to go in and plan on a RB25DET gearbox.
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Engine bay front
Thanks dogma. Nah its only idled in its current state thus far. Started it for the first time a few days ago. I'm tuning it this weekend, then a dyno at some point in the future. A mate has a G-Tech so i'll let you know re performance. Hoping it hangs together long enough to push out a quickish time. Dave
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Check this place out!
http://z-tekmfg.com/ as he said. Dave
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17-18 inch wheels
Dave, Depends on too much to say. 14" rotors leaves you with around 1-1.5" on either side of the disc to the wheel (with 17s). Just depends if the caliper design makes it stick out more than that. Oh and btw, what on earth are 4-spot sliding calipers? Dave
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Fuel system
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Engine from passengers side
Engine from passengers side. L28E intake manifold, custom fuel rail, 65mm T/B, Garrett GT35R turbocharger
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Engine from drivers side
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Engine bay front
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Front passengers side
- Drivers view
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Front drivers side
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Eliminating Hoses and other S......
Dave, I would hazard a guess that the ones you have seen haven't been running the standard computer. I brought an L28E manifold and immediately ripped ALL the crap off it as I didn't need it, see attachment for what it looks like now. Aftermarket ECUs typically don't use the cold-start stuff that you find on factory systems. Though ECUs these days are allowing for idle stepper motors and what not. Basically, everything on a factory system is there for a reason, don't go pulling things off if you don't know what it'll do. Dave
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280z injection into 240 with L28
I haven't played with the standard L28E setup aside from using the intake manifold in my conversion, but here goes: Injectors: get them professionally flowed and cleaned, they'll be gummed up to hell. Fuel rail: should be fine as it stands AFM: unsure what type the L28E is, if its hot-wire you get a cotton-bud thingo and some metho and GENTLY wipe the crap from it. Aside from that you will need to look at suppling EFI fuel pressure to the rail. For a 240Z this can be a hassle as there is limited room between the fuel tank and the diff. I managed to squeeze in a 1.5L surge tank, carter 110gph lift pump, and a bosch 044 EFI fuel pump somehow but it was tight. Alternatively you could go for an in-tank EFI pump and get the tank modified to suit. Then its just a fairly simple matter of connecting the fuel bits: EFI supply to fuel rail, fuel rail to reg, reg to return line. and then doing the wiring. Check http://carfiche.com/fiche/s130 for the wiring diagram of the S130 if you get stuck. (http://carfiche.com/fiche/s130/?2:h:1 specifically). Good luck, Dave
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Possible 240z engines?
Jason, The car lives at my parents place so I'll have a squiz when I'm up there on Friday. Sounds reasonable that the majority have the coolant slots. Back onto the topic somewhat, bang-for-your-buck you can hardly go past an L28 with some decent induction (efi/carbies whatever tickles your fancy) and some basic N/A mods: cam, exhaust, porting etc. The only engine I would consider replacing my L28 with is an RB26, and I can't afford one. Dave
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Possible 240z engines?
It was my understanding that the very last of the F54 blocks actually altered the siamesed cylinder walls due to the earlier ones having a negative affect on cooling. As I understand it siamesed cylinder walls increased block rigidity and provide more effective load distribution. ``The first L28 turbo blocks have the front three and rear three cylinders siamesed... Although this improved block rigidity, it was thought that the webs inhibited coolant flow around the siamesed cylinders. To improve cooland circulation, a casting change was made. On the block 11010-P9080 introduced in the 280zx turbo in december 1980, slots were put in the siamesed cores to provide coolant passages between the cylinders.'' - Frank Honsowetz (How to modify your nissan datsun OHC engine) Anyone know how to determine which year block I've got from the number?
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Flaring Guards
Brett, that is 260DET's car. Dave